Great guide for lefties on picking up spares!

[martinezsam2495]

http://bowling.about.com/od/learntobowl/ss/howtopickupspares_lefties_9.htm

This article opened up a different way at viewing bowling for me,

[billf]

It's nothing more than the standard spare systems spelled out. It's the mirror image of how a right hander picks them up.

[Mike White]

That system doesn't take into consideration the buildup of oil in the center, or the bone dryness outside.

If the wall stops balls that are unintentionally pulled right (for a lefty) then it's gonna stop the ball when you move your feet a little left for the 3-6.

This is why the straight shot at spares is so effective. If you set the ball down on the 15 at the foul line, and you hit the 15 board at the arrows, and the ball slides all the way, it's going to end on the 15 board. The key is to remember to adjust where you stand. If the ball is going to start on 15 board (in your stance) you're feet should be at approximately 22 board. ( each bowler has their own offset, with 7 being common)

From there it's simple math to hit any other location. I make the assumption that a bowler starts from the 1st set of dots (15 feet from the foul line) If you want to hit the 4 pin, it's on the 8 board, 15-8 = 7, 7*2/3 = 4 2/3, 15+4 2/3 = 19 2/3, start the ball on the 19 2/3 board which means start the feet on the 26 2/3 board. You can round to 27. If you start from the 2nd dots use 3/5 instead of 2/3.

The reason the math works is the distance from the arrows to the pins is 45 feet, and the distance from the arrows to the 1st set of dots on the approach is 30 feet. 30 / 45 = 2/3.

The second set of dots (12 feet from foul line) would be 27 feet from the arrows. 27/45 = 3/5

To be absolutely accurate, you need to compensate for how far back the pin is, not just what board it's on. The head pin is 45 feet from the arrows, but the 2 pin is another 10.39 inches further back.

[billf]

And yet the 3-6-9 method and it's derivatives work so well with math a second grader can easily do.

[Tampabaybob]

The 3-6-9 method is an excellent method for spare shooting. I've tried it myself, and it works well. With that said, let me explain a system I've used for many years (over 40) and have taught to hundreds of bowlers. This in some way utilizes the KISS theory.

I teach a visual system. That is you do not look at your feet while lining up, you line up your ball, the middle arrow and your object pin, and shoot the 3rd arrow (on the right for righties and left for lefties). When you make your approach walk towards the middle arrow. You visually draw a straight line from your ball to the middle arrow,and then to the object pin, and always shoot the arrow to the right of that ( left if you're a lefty). I average a high 90% on shooting spares with this system and it also works well for splits and other odd leaves. The main reason for the 3rd arrow to 3rd arrow area, as someone mentioned, is the oil. This will allow the most skid area and usually be the most direct. There are always WHAT IF's as in any system, for instance, if you're a cranker and try this and still insist on cranking the ball 25 boards it may not work. But again, use the KISS system and your percentage will go up. Very easy, no boards to count, allows you to to keep your eyes up facing your target the whole time you're waiting for your ball to return. Again, do not look down and take your eyes off of your target.

Try it, and let me know how it works for you. Also keep in mind, every single pin spare is a target about 18" wide. Think about that next time you miss one!

[billf]

Also keep in mind, every single pin spare is a target about 18" wide. Think about that next time you miss one!

And that's why I get so upset when I do miss. Not the kicking things kind of upset, just upset with myself for not properly executing. That's when I use the 15 second rule.

[Mike White]

The 3-6-9 method is an excellent method for spare shooting. I've tried it myself, and it works well. With that said, let me explain a system I've used for many years (over 40) and have taught to hundreds of bowlers. This in some way utilizes the KISS theory.

I teach a visual system. That is you do not look at your feet while lining up, you line up your ball, the middle arrow and your object pin, and shoot the 3rd arrow (on the right for righties and left for lefties). When you make your approach walk towards the middle arrow. You visually draw a straight line from your ball to the middle arrow,and then to the object pin, and always shoot the arrow to the right of that ( left if you're a lefty). I average a high 90% on shooting spares with this system and it also works well for splits and other odd leaves. The main reason for the 3rd arrow to 3rd arrow area, as someone mentioned, is the oil. This will allow the most skid area and usually be the most direct. There are always WHAT IF's as in any system, for instance, if you're a cranker and try this and still insist on cranking the ball 25 boards it may not work. But again, use the KISS system and your percentage will go up. Very easy, no boards to count, allows you to to keep your eyes up facing your target the whole time you're waiting for your ball to return. Again, do not look down and take your eyes off of your target.

Try it, and let me know how it works for you. Also keep in mind, every single pin spare is a target about 18" wide. Think about that next time you miss one!

The visual method works fine if you're right handed and right eye dominant., or left handed and left eye dominant.
Otherwise what works for you doesn't work for others.

[Mike White]

Try it, and let me know how it works for you. Also keep in mind, every single pin spare is a target about 18" wide. Think about that next time you miss one!

18" wide??????

Ball is approx 4.3" radius
Pin (at the height where the ball makes contact) is approx 2.36" radius.

To make contact on the left or right , the center of the ball must be within 6.66" of the center of the pin

6.66 * 2 = 13.32"

[The German Shepherd]

18" wide??????

Ball is approx 4.3" radius
Pin (at the height where the ball makes contact) is approx 2.36" radius.

To make contact on the left or right , the center of the ball must be within 6.66" of the center of the pin

6.66 * 2 = 13.32"

Yo Mike, your math is incorrect. You have to consider the entire diameter of the ball, not just the radius. You can touch the pin on either side of the pin AND with either side of the ball. That makes your target nearly 18 inches...

Jay

[Mike White]

Yo Mike, your math is incorrect. You have to consider the entire diameter of the ball, not just the radius. You can touch the pin on either side of the pin AND with either side of the ball. That makes your target nearly 18 inches...

Jay

http://mikew1961.linkpc.net/images/SinglePin.jpg

In this image Br = Ball Radius (4.2975") Pr = Pin Radius (2.36")

From center of the ball on the left, to center of the ball on the right = Br+Pr+Pr+Br = 13.315"

[bowl1820]

Both of you are basically right.

Mike is right in how he's looking at it, using a area going from ball center to ball center. (Nice graphic Mike!)

But German shepherd & Tampabaybob are basically right also, though the measurement is too small. It should be a area 21.797" wide (Using Max. Pin And Ball Dia.'s) and the entire ball has to be within that area.

The old saying was that you had almost a two foot hole to throw the ball though.

http://s19.postimage.org/vpy44asxt/Single_Pin1a.jpg

Now that's for pins in the center of the pin deck, that area will shrink as the pin gets closer to either side of the lane.

[Tampabaybob]

Jay, thanks for coming to my defense....when you're teaching kids and showing them a bowling pin with a ball on both sides it's easier to explain it by stating it's a 17 or 18 inch target rather than going into 1/2 of the ball dimensions as Mike so eloquently showed us. So Mike kudos to you for figuring it out exactly, but for the sake of instruction I'll stick to my guns and keep explaining it as 17 - 18 inches. I think they'll understand it a little better. :)

Bob