New ball or resurface?

[RotoGripe]

Lately I've been having a lot of trouble carrying during league play when playing inside of second arrow. I'm a fairly low/med rev, med speed right hander. Currently throwing an old X-factor Deuce circa 2003 that inherited a couple years ago from a friend (you can look up specs on storm's website). It's the only ball I have besides my white dot for spares, and I just can't get it to move on the backend on a THS. So I see a lot of weak tens, sevens, and buckets. My dilemma is whether I should just have the ball sanded back to its oob 1000 grit matt finish since it hasn't been (as far as I know) since originally purchased, OR should I purchase a new ball entirely? In which case, which one? I'm somewhat partial to strorm/rotogrip but open to other suggestions as well.

Thanks in advance.

[ecub]

Weak 10's and 7's, maybe the ball is coming in light? What kind of adjustment are you making when it happens?

In regards to resurface or buying a new ball, you could do both. What are you in the budget for? If the ball hasn't been resurfaced, I would have the oil removed and then resurfaced. You could also get a new ball to add to your arsenal.

[AZBowla]

If you like the ball otherwise, I'd try resurfacing and have the oil extracted out of it. My local pro shop guy is always recommending this to his customers who come in looking for a new ball. He charges about $50 for this which is quite a bit cheaper than a new $150+ ball.

edit: ECub beat me to it. :) So I'll just add: I agree.
-AZ

[RotoGripe]

I guess I meant to say flat tens. In other words, I believe there's too much deflection and not enough hook. Anyway thanks for the responses. I think I will resurface the deuce because from what I can gather, it's designed to be a really aggressive ball for heavier conditions. I.E. the center of the lane on a THS, right? Eventually I think I will want another ball that contrasts nicely with what I've got since I'm planning on joining a pba experience league this summer. Any suggestions?

[billf]

The center of a THS has the heaviest concentration of oil for that pattern. The part that is assumed but not always true is that it is thick enough to be considered heavy. There are several pre-programmed THS that a center can choose from.

As an example let's say these patterns are all 40 feet long and cover the same boards the same distance. Pattern A takes 20ml of oil while pattern B takes 28ml of oil. Which pattern would have the heavier amount of oil in the center? Yes, it's pattern B. What most centers don't know or tell people is which THS they are using, volume, lenght, etc. Turns out that most of the employees have no clue. I was talking at a local center to the manager. He has been using the same pattern for the past five years and doesn't even remember which pattern it is or any of the specs.

Axis rotation and rev rate also play a role in reaction. A higher axis rotation will tend to have a sharper angle off the break point and is generally used more often as bowlers play deeper.
Also, extracting the oil will allow the ball to read the transition into the dry better which can affect the reaction dramatically. As the ball absorbs oil it loses the ability to read the friction as quickly.

As for another ball, I would suggest the Roto-Grip Disturbed. That would give you a heavy, medium and spare ball. With adjustments you can get by on most patterns with those.

[Hammer]

Your problem for hitting the pocket light is the fact that you are playing inside the second arrow. I don't know what board your sliding foot is on but if your left foot arch is on say board 16 or 17 and you are playing inside the second arrow board 10 to 15 board then you are playing too straight up and your ball is staying in too much oil. If you want to have more hook to the pocket you have to throw your ball out to the one board to the outside of the ten board. So you need to set yourself up on the approach where your slide foot arch is on board 15 to 20 and throw your ball over the second arrow from the right and belly the ball to go anywhere from the 3 board to the 7 board which will be on the dry part of the alley and give your ball a better hook to the pocket. I don't know how good you are at throwing a hook ball so you will have to adjust yourself to stay outside the 10 board and not the inside where the ball will have trouble coming back into the pocket. :cool: