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GoodGorilla
05-11-2013, 04:32 AM
What is the difference between polish and pearl? If I put polish on my spare ball will it go straiter?

bowl1820
05-11-2013, 08:13 AM
What is the difference between polish and pearl? If I put polish on my spare ball will it go straiter?

Polish is what "you" put on a ball to help get more length.

A Pearlized (Pearl) ball is one with a additive in the coverstock (Ex. Mica)

GoodGorilla
05-11-2013, 01:57 PM
Polish is what "you" put on a ball to help get more length.

A Pearlized (Pearl) ball is one with a additive in the coverstock (Ex. Mica)

But they accomplish the same thing? Would you say that you need more polish for dry lanes than oily lanes?

Stormed1
05-11-2013, 02:12 PM
Keep in mind the more highly polished the ball. The more violently it will react at the breakpoint due to storing ebergy

Tampabaybob
05-11-2013, 10:29 PM
What is the difference between polish and pearl? If I put polish on my spare ball will it go straiter?

I throw a few pearl balls because I like the reaction of the balls. They're "usually" skid flip balls and it's just a preference of mine. Maybe once a month, I'll put a coat of polish on them just to shine 'em up and maybe get a little more length. What I mainly use the polish for is for my spare ball. I throw a gold Roto Grip "world" ball (bought it used for $20 bucks!) and I use the polish to make sure I get plenty of skid when shooting the 6 -10 and the 10 pin. I have tried to impart that idea to a teammate and he said "Oh I don't need to polish my spare ball". After he missed the first two ten pins that nite I reminded him about polishing it !! NUFF SAID !

GoodGorilla
05-12-2013, 11:44 AM
I throw a few pearl balls because I like the reaction of the balls. They're "usually" skid flip balls and it's just a preference of mine. Maybe once a month, I'll put a coat of polish on them just to shine 'em up and maybe get a little more length. What I mainly use the polish for is for my spare ball. I throw a gold Roto Grip "world" ball (bought it used for $20 bucks!) and I use the polish to make sure I get plenty of skid when shooting the 6 -10 and the 10 pin. I have tried to impart that idea to a teammate and he said "Oh I don't need to polish my spare ball". After he missed the first two ten pins that nite I reminded him about polishing it !! NUFF SAID !

There are many kinds of polish too right? How do you know which one to use for different conditions? Is it all trial and error?

billf
05-12-2013, 12:24 PM
There are many kinds of polish too right? How do you know which one to use for different conditions? Is it all trial and error?

Basically. There are polishes with more coarse grit, like Brunswick's rough buff compared to Brunswick High Gloss. Obviously the high gloss goes longer. But how much of which kind for each ball/bowler combo is trial and error, for the most part. That's why pearl balls became so popular.

GoodGorilla
05-12-2013, 03:32 PM
Basically. There are polishes with more coarse grit, like Brunswick's rough buff compared to Brunswick High Gloss. Obviously the high gloss goes longer. But how much of which kind for each ball/bowler combo is trial and error, for the most part. That's why pearl balls became so popular.

I was just checking out Brunswick's ball care products.

http://www.bowlwithbrunswick.com/accessories/ball-care/

Is control it basically the same thing as the factory finish? Would ruff buff polish be good for oily lanes? What about grit pads, why would you want to sand down your ball?

billf
05-12-2013, 09:04 PM
I was just checking out Brunswick's ball care products.

http://www.bowlwithbrunswick.com/accessories/ball-care/

Is control it basically the same thing as the factory finish? Would ruff buff polish be good for oily lanes? What about grit pads, why would you want to sand down your ball?

Control it has different grip properties than the factory finish. Like a child would say, the same but different. Just like all polishes are the same, their different chemical make-up gives us a different reaction.

For the most part I keep all my balls at factory finish. So the balls that call for rough buff get rough buff. Good for oily lanes? Yes, when the balls calls for it it works great.

Why sand the ball? I sand mine every deep cleaning. 360 to open the pores then 500 then the final grit if above that. Then I add the polish that ball calls for.

My exception to factory surface has been one of my Revenge's. So I could use my pin up on a THS I went 500, 2000 which is factory. Then I went to 4000 and added 7 coats of high gloss polish. Even at that my pin down Revenge was too strong for me to use on a THS. That ball is strictly for tournaments. Today I put the pin up back to factory for the Shark pattern this week. If it's too strong I can drop to the Terror, Reckless, Misfit and Natural Pearl.

If you have a ball that is burning up it's energy too soon, changing the surface to a higher grit and/or adding more polish can help.
A ball that is said to be dead can be revived by deep cleaining and sanding. Normal use of a ball knocks off the natural peaks of the cover in essence making it smoother. Restoring that microscopic roughness works wonders. It's also how my balls have thousands of games on them and still look and act like they are less than a month old.

GoodGorilla
05-13-2013, 10:33 AM
Control it has different grip properties than the factory finish. Like a child would say, the same but different. Just like all polishes are the same, their different chemical make-up gives us a different reaction.

For the most part I keep all my balls at factory finish. So the balls that call for rough buff get rough buff. Good for oily lanes? Yes, when the balls calls for it it works great.

Why sand the ball? I sand mine every deep cleaning. 360 to open the pores then 500 then the final grit if above that. Then I add the polish that ball calls for.

My exception to factory surface has been one of my Revenge's. So I could use my pin up on a THS I went 500, 2000 which is factory. Then I went to 4000 and added 7 coats of high gloss polish. Even at that my pin down Revenge was too strong for me to use on a THS. That ball is strictly for tournaments. Today I put the pin up back to factory for the Shark pattern this week. If it's too strong I can drop to the Terror, Reckless, Misfit and Natural Pearl.

If you have a ball that is burning up it's energy too soon, changing the surface to a higher grit and/or adding more polish can help.
A ball that is said to be dead can be revived by deep cleaining and sanding. Normal use of a ball knocks off the natural peaks of the cover in essence making it smoother. Restoring that microscopic roughness works wonders. It's also how my balls have thousands of games on them and still look and act like they are less than a month old.

If you sand a pearl ball, doesn't that take the pearl surface off?

bowl1820
05-13-2013, 03:34 PM
If you sand a pearl ball, doesn't that take the pearl surface off?

No, the "pearl" is not a coating on the ball. It's a additive that is mixed in the coverstock.

GoodGorilla
05-13-2013, 05:10 PM
No, the "pearl" is not a coating on the ball. It's a additive that is mixed in the coverstock.

So, how deep does a coverstock go, and what keeps you from changing the spherical shape of the ball?

bowl1820
05-13-2013, 05:32 PM
So, how deep does a coverstock go, and what keeps you from changing the spherical shape of the ball?

1- how deep does a coverstock go?
There's no one answer, all balls are different on how thick the coverstock is. But don't worry, you'll never sand it all off.

2-what keeps you from changing the spherical shape of the ball?

By The use of a ball spinner and by sanding the different "sides" of a ball equally (there are 6 sides to a bowling ball)

Here's a chart:
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/Bowlingball_Sides.pdf

There are also special ball resurfacing machines (Haus Machine or a Cook Sphere machine) that can be used to get a ball back into round if needed

Now it is possible for a inexperienced person to get a ball "out of round" when sanding by hand or using a spinner.

GoodGorilla
05-13-2013, 07:49 PM
1- how deep does a coverstock go?
There's no one answer, all balls are different on how thick the coverstock is. But don't worry, you'll never sand it all off.

2-what keeps you from changing the spherical shape of the ball?

By The use of a ball spinner and by sanding the different "sides" of a ball equally (there are 6 sides to a bowling ball)

Here's a chart:
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/Bowlingball_Sides.pdf

There are also special ball resurfacing machines (Haus Machine or a Cook Sphere machine) that can be used to get a ball back into round if needed

Now it is possible for a inexperienced person to get a ball "out of round" when sanding by hand or using a spinner.

When you sand with a ball spinner don't you apply pressure to the ball by hand? I mean how hard is it to keep it spherical? Those resurfacing machines sound nice but how often do you have to use those, and how much does that process cost?

Tampabaybob
05-13-2013, 08:25 PM
I was just checking out Brunswick's ball care products.

http://www.bowlwithbrunswick.com/accessories/ball-care/

Is control it basically the same thing as the factory finish? Would ruff buff polish be good for oily lanes? What about grit pads, why would you want to sand down your ball?

I use the high gloss polish.

bowl1820
05-13-2013, 08:33 PM
When you sand with a ball spinner don't you apply pressure to the ball by hand? I mean how hard is it to keep it spherical? Those resurfacing machines sound nice but how often do you have to use those, and how much does that process cost?


1-When you sand with a ball spinner don't you apply pressure to the ball by hand?
Yes you apply pressure by hand. When I said "sanding by hand" I was referring to sanding without using a spinner.

2-I mean how hard is it to keep it spherical?
Sanding on a spinner is pretty simple


3-Those resurfacing machines sound nice but how often do you have to use those, and how much does that process cost?

You only need to throw it on the diamond wheels, if you think there's a problem. As for cost 20 -30$ but that would depend on the pro shop.

How to Resurface a Bowling Ball part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSfhWoduwQk

bowl1820
05-13-2013, 08:35 PM
How to Resurface a Bowling Ball Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlh_tEsMfU4

GoodGorilla
05-14-2013, 08:50 AM
Those videos are amazing, what is the compound for before the polish?

Also, how often do you need to totally resurface versus just using the grit pad that you like?

bowl1820
05-14-2013, 03:13 PM
Those videos are amazing, what is the compound for before the polish?

Also, how often do you need to totally resurface versus just using the grit pad that you like?

That was Lane Concepts compound he used before the polish.

According to most charts, you resurface about every 60 games. But it all depends on how much you bowl and the the conditions you bowl on.

GoodGorilla
05-15-2013, 07:44 AM
That was Lane Concepts compound he used before the polish.

According to most charts, you resurface about every 60 games. But it all depends on how much you bowl and the the conditions you bowl on.

What is lane concepts compound? I can't find the product.

bowl1820
05-15-2013, 08:33 AM
What is lane concepts compound? I can't find the product.

I don't think they make it anymore. Looks like a product similar to Rough Buff maybe, I don't know I've never used it.

The majority of balls today are finished with combinations of Abralon pads, Brunswick Rough Buff and/or Powerhouse Factory Finish. If you have those your covered.

GoodGorilla
05-15-2013, 09:43 AM
I don't think they make it anymore. Looks like a product similar to Rough Buff maybe, I don't know I've never used it.

The majority of balls today are finished with combinations of Abralon pads, Brunswick Rough Buff and/or Powerhouse Factory Finish. If you have those your covered.

I would love a ball spinner, but I can't afford it at the moment. Most of the time I bowl on dry lanes so I ordered some factory finish and lots of those disposable towels you use in the process. On bowlingball.com the towels were like buy 1 get 2 free. Also I think when the pro bowlers show what ball they are using on TV, it should say what polish and surface grade they use. The ball alone doesn't seem to be a weapon in itself on those crazy oil patterns.

Tampabaybob
05-17-2013, 09:50 AM
They won't tell you on the PBA shows if they've changed the surface at all. Remember they're sponsored by the ball companies, getting all of their equipment for free, so the only thing the ball companies want you to see and know id that so & so uses this companies equipment....without going into details. They also don't say how it's drilled either, right?

bowl1820
05-17-2013, 11:26 AM
there were couple of sites that told that information drilling, surface etc. but they didn't keep with it well.

GoodGorilla
05-17-2013, 11:38 AM
I found in my Revolutions 2 book that there are many ways you can sand a ball other than what grit you use. In the book it shows cross-hatching, delayed aggressive reaction, early aggressive reaction, and pro surface methods. The delayed aggressive reaction looks good for me, you sand parallel to the release track to make the ball less reactive on the front end but more on the back end.

GoodGorilla
05-17-2013, 12:49 PM
1001

Are these the 6 quadrants? I bet there is an order you have to sand the ball for the resurfacing, maybe you could tell me the order from my picture?

UBowling
05-17-2013, 01:01 PM
Personally I like balls with a polished surface on longer patterns when I want the ball to conserve energy and then react quickly to friction. I will use a pearl with a shiny surface to accomplish this.

Of course there are people who polish a solid coverstock or sand a pearl coverstock. I don't do this often as I like the factory finish most of the time.

Tampabaybob
05-17-2013, 06:09 PM
Personally I like balls with a polished surface on longer patterns when I want the ball to conserve energy and then react quickly to friction. I will use a pearl with a shiny surface to accomplish this.

Of course there are people who polish a solid coverstock or sand a pearl coverstock. I don't do this often as I like the factory finish most of the time.

I'm with you Levi. I love the reaction with the Pearls. I find in most cases it's easier to move around on the lane when the oil starts moving and you have to start changing lines. I only shoot on house shots now, most of my tournament days are over, so it makes it easier than having to have 9 or 10 balls to travel with. 3 plus a spare ball.....plenty.

GoodGorilla
05-19-2013, 10:44 AM
I was thinking about buying a used ball spinner, how long do they last? Should I get a new one? There are different horse power grades, how important is the horse power?

GoodGorilla
05-20-2013, 11:34 AM
Just bought a used 1/2 hp spiner with 40 abralon pads + polish for 266 w/shipping on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151048254486?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_474wt_675

Tampabaybob
05-28-2013, 07:52 PM
Just bought a used 1/2 hp spiner with 40 abralon pads + polish for 266 w/shipping on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151048254486?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_474wt_675

You'll definitely get your money's worth out of it. Tell your bowling buddies that you'll restore their balls for them (at a discount :roll eyes: and you'll pay for the spinner in no time. Companies say that balls should be redone every 50 -60 games. How many guys do you know that actually do that? I don't know very many & I don't myself because of the cost.

Learn the proper techniques and you can have a good little side business going. Good Luck.

GoodGorilla
05-29-2013, 09:41 AM
You'll definitely get your money's worth out of it. Tell your bowling buddies that you'll restore their balls for them (at a discount :roll eyes: and you'll pay for the spinner in no time. Companies say that balls should be redone every 50 -60 games. How many guys do you know that actually do that? I don't know very many & I don't myself because of the cost.

Learn the proper techniques and you can have a good little side business going. Good Luck.

Unfortunately all my bowling buddies get to use their pro shop spinner for nothing. However, I bought the spinner because one of my balls totally needs a restore. I forget do I give the ball a bath before I restore?

GoodGorilla
06-01-2013, 10:57 AM
Just making some notes for a recap on resurfacing.

Here are the 6 sides to a ball.

http://home.earthlink.net/~litefrozen/downloads/Bowlingball_Sides.pdf

When resurfacing start on low speed and spend about 30 seconds per side applying even pressure. You do 180 grit for sides 1 & 2, 360 for sides 3&4, 500 for 5&6, 1000 grit for sides 1&2, 2000 for 3&4, 4000 for 5&6. At this point the ball is ready to recieve the finishing touches like applying a lower number abarlon pad and/or polish. For polish, set the ball spinner to high speed and you just do the 6 sides with the desired polish (facory finish, or rough buff).

resurface video 1 of 2 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSfhWoduwQk&feature=player_embedded

resurface video 2 of 2 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlh_tEsMfU4&feature=player_embedded


Notes:
The lower the number on the abarlon pad the more rough the surface will be and grip the lane easier. Lower number pads are good for oily lanes or players that speed dominates their revs, or players that just can't get any hook. Higher abarlon pads are good for players that revs dominate their speed, or dry lanes. Facory finish gives the ball more length before reacting to friction (dry lane), and rough buff gives the ball less length before reacting to friction (oily lanes).

Questions:
1. Does higher grit reduce the hooking power, or does it just delay it? Same for factory finish?

2. When do you drain the oil from the ball, before or after resurfacing?

3. How many and what sides do you use when applying the desired grit after resurface?

4. Why use rough buff instead of using a lower number abarlon pad, or using factory finish instead of a higher abarlon pad?

bowl1820
06-01-2013, 12:58 PM
Questions:
1. Does higher grit reduce the hooking power, or does it just delay it? Same for factory finish?
It delays hook and can increase it .
(The old adage is that a sanded ball hooks less but earlier and a smooth ball hooks later but stronger.)
This is because a sanded ball has less surface contact (smaller footprint) than a smooth ball .

http://s24.postimg.org/paxmsb5r9/contact.gif

A comparison would be regular car tires and racing slicks. A reg. tire has a tread to get a grip on a wet surface. Where as a racing slick is smooth so it gets the maximum grip on a dry surface

As for polishes etc. it would depend on the type used, some contain slip agents which could reduce hook. Other would just smooth the ball more.



2. When do you drain the oil from the ball, before or after resurfacing?
You would do it first after you had sanded with coarsest grit. this would be when the pores are the most open.


3. How many and what sides do you use when applying the desired grit after resurface?
After resurfacing (Resufacing: Is returning a ball back to a like new condition, removing all nicks, scratches etc.) There's no one answer, It would all depend on what surface you wanted.

If you were returning it to the O.O.B (Out of Box) condition, you would follow what the MFG. recommends. Most surfaces do 4 sides at each grit level.



4. Why use rough buff instead of using a lower number abarlon pad, or using factory finish instead of a higher abarlon pad?

Because they do something different than a sanding pad. Rough Buff is what use to be called a fill in glaze. While it has a grit component to it, it will basically leave whatever the under laying grit is there. Giving you a "sheen/Matte" surface.

factory finish would be similar but at a finer level. Both would be removing the surface peaks from the sanding ridges do to the grit in the product.

Where as a sanding pad would change that under laying grit to the grit of the pad being used.

The point of using the products in combination is so you have the widest variety of surfaces, so you can match up to the conditions.

GoodGorilla
06-01-2013, 03:04 PM
I still have some more questions, but I think I will have my hands full for awhile from all the answers. For everyone else, feel free to ask away. Thanks for your help guys.

GoodGorilla
06-10-2013, 12:03 PM
It delays hook and can increase it .
(
After resurfacing (Resufacing: Is returning a ball back to a like new condition, removing all nicks, scratches etc.) There's no one answer, It would all depend on what surface you wanted.

If you were returning it to the O.O.B (Out of Box) condition, you would follow what the MFG. recommends. Most surfaces do 4 sides at each grit level.



I talked to a kid who works at a bowling ally and has his ball restored for free by the proshop there. He said the proshop doesn't even use the 6 sides. He also said the proshop guy will not sand up to 4000 unless 4000 was the desired end grit.

billf
06-10-2013, 09:18 PM
Obviously I'm misunderstanding something. Why would you sand up to 4000 unless that was the desired end grit? I mean, you wouldn't go to 4000 if the desired end grit was 2000. I'm exhausted so it's probably just mean misinterpreting.

Anyway, there are lots of people in lots of professions that try to take short cuts. Just because that shop operator does and seems to get away with just 4 sides, that doesn't mean you have to short change yourself. I've found that for normal surface changes I can get away with 4 sides. For a true resurface, nothing beats going with 6.

GoodGorilla
06-11-2013, 07:10 AM
Obviously I'm misunderstanding something. Why would you sand up to 4000 unless that was the desired end grit? I mean, you wouldn't go to 4000 if the desired end grit was 2000. I'm exhausted so it's probably just mean misinterpreting.

Anyway, there are lots of people in lots of professions that try to take short cuts. Just because that shop operator does and seems to get away with just 4 sides, that doesn't mean you have to short change yourself. I've found that for normal surface changes I can get away with 4 sides. For a true resurface, nothing beats going with 6.

I think it may just be my misunderstanding that the guy in the video went up to 4000 grit so I assumed that whenever you resurface you go up to 4000, then go down to the desired grit after that. From what you are saying if you wanted to end with 2000, would your technique -be like this?

When resurfacing start on low speed and spend about 30 seconds per side applying even pressure. You do 180 grit for sides 1 & 2, 360 for sides 3&4, 500 for 5&6, 1000 grit for sides 1&2, 2000 for 3&4, then cleaning solution and polish at high speed?

billf
06-11-2013, 10:19 PM
That's more like it, yes. Now if it's just a surface adjustment you can start at 500, then 1000 and 2000 followed by cleaning solution and polish if desired.

GoodGorilla
06-13-2013, 01:48 PM
That's more like it, yes. Now if it's just a surface adjustment you can start at 500, then 1000 and 2000 followed by cleaning solution and polish if desired.

What if you wanted to resurface and end with 2000?

billf
06-13-2013, 09:45 PM
Then as I posted that you quoted and skip the polish.

billf
06-13-2013, 10:04 PM
Here's some good reading for you
http://bowlingknowledge.info/images/stories/bk_surface_101.pdf

GoodGorilla
07-04-2013, 08:08 AM
I just resurfaced my meanstreak to 4000. Wow does resurfacing leave a mess, when I was on the lowest grit cover stock dust was just being shot everywhere. After I was done it was like I took handfuls of chalk and threw it all over. I may have sanded it more than I had to because the manual to the ball spinner said I had to use a single grit for all 6 sides before moving up, and that's what I did.

bowl1820
07-04-2013, 11:10 AM
I just resurfaced my meanstreak to 4000. Wow does resurfacing leave a mess, when I was on the lowest grit cover stock dust was just being shot everywhere. After I was done it was like I took handfuls of chalk and threw it all over. I may have sanded it more than I had to because the manual to the ball spinner said I had to use a single grit for all 6 sides before moving up, and that's what I did.

You should be running water over the ball as you sand it! either from a faucet or use a spray bottle or you can dip the paper in a bucket of water has you sand.

This will keep the dust down and also help reduce the build up in your paper.

Gunz1911
07-05-2013, 10:47 AM
1001

Are these the 6 quadrants? I bet there is an order you have to sand the ball for the resurfacing, maybe you could tell me the order from my picture?



If your ball looks like your picture... I don't think it's round anymore...

GoodGorilla
07-05-2013, 06:51 PM
If your ball looks like your picture... I don't think it's round anymore...

Ha. I would take a picture of my ball after it took a spin. I swear it looks better than when I first bought it. So shiny!

DLP
07-07-2013, 12:19 AM
If your ball looks like your picture... I don't think it's round anymore...

Was that taken out of a Flintstone's episode?

the_halfie
07-07-2013, 08:30 AM
Old Twinkle Toes strikes again! Yup pun intended.