How to Tame a Virtual Gravity, nano pearl on league night.

[MICHAEL]

since a pearl finish with high polish saves energy, does it have a more radical dive into the pocket then a Matte finish? My Virtual Gravity nano pearl, was way to powerful after clearing the heads Thursday night! RIGHT from the start!! That is new for this ball! It's worked like a champ for several weeks, now right out of the blocks first frame, first game, its going Brooklyn, even after moving left for me! I tried a new line but no luck!

my question is this,,, You play a certain alley, every week, and you pretty much know what to expect, but one day you come in and find that ball that always works it actually TOO STRONG at the end.

What can you do to take some of the snap out after it clears the heads, and in that last 3 feet or so!!!

Is it because there is good oil and the Virtual Gravity Nano pearl is too powerful?

Could it be that that same alley 3 days earlier, when I threw the 300, and 780 series, it was lighter oil, and the ball lost some energy, thus the great score?

If that's the case what can you do to a ball while bowling to take some of that huge energy it stores and delivers at the end that snap, that takes it brokylin!

My question is if I don't want to trade for another ball, but want to modify my ball what do you do? Would ruff buff, take care of it, is it leagal? Take the polish off with ball cleaner ??

That Nano works great, but sometimes, Its just too strong, what can a person do to the ball on league night to tame it??

[bowl1820]

Well Rough Buff would be illegal to use during league play.

When you moved left, did you also move your line inside?

[MICHAEL]

Well Rough Buff would be illegal to use during league play.

When you moved left, did you also move your line inside?

What does a rough buff mean? Simply using a, say green pad to rough up the surface and remove some of the polish? Let's say I had two V.G. nano pearls, drilled the same way, and one was being set up for this situation, and I am not sure what it was, other then I couldn't get that darn ball to get to the pocket.

kept going Brooklyn right from the get go!!! I have yet to see that happen on this league! I went the full 3 games Monday when I had that 300/780, with the v.G. Nano pearl!

question bowl1820: Does the polish make a ball save energy, and have that huge dive at the end just before impact?
If it does, then dose rough buff burn up some of that energy, and take some of that ark off the ball?
This whole thing about a ball saving energy, or losing energy has Iceman confused?
I am not sure if the lanes had too much oil, thus saved up a bunch causing the bad angle into the pocket

This is one part of my game I need to figure out in regards to Hot and Cold series I seem to have! Once I have this part figured out, I do believe my averge will go up huge!

yes I did move left along with moving target,, but nothing seemed to give me that look. (it wasn't just me, the whole team was struggling Thursday)

except for MANIC,, she was at her average!

[sprocket]

I would say if the ball is hooking too late and too sharp then scuffing it up can change that shape and you can do that during warm-ups. However, if the ball is just plain hooking too much overall and moving left doesn't help, then you can either increase speed, take some hand out of it, or try to use a more end over end roll. Scuffing it will not lessen its overall hook IMHO. The simplest thing is to just put it away and use something that hooks less. That's why you have multiple balls right?

[bowl1820]

What does a rough buff mean?
Mike in your first post you asked "Would ruff buff, take care of it, is it leagal?"
I answered "Well Rough Buff would be illegal to use during league play."

Rough Buff and ruff buff are the same thing, "Brunswick’s Rough Buff"

Now you can change the surface before you bowl that would be legal. Would Rough Buff make a difference? It would depend on what the surface was before you used it.


Simply using a, say green pad to rough up the surface and remove some of the polish?!
Yes you could remove some polish with a green pad before you bowl, that could even the reaction out some.

Some other things to try are change your release some, target a little farther down the lane, move your line inside to stay in the oil longer


question bowl1820: Does the polish make a ball save energy, and have that huge dive at the end just before impact?
Yes if you polish a ball it will skid more in oil and save energy.

You might read the article in the last issue of BTM about playing the inside line. it could help.
http://conta.cc/19qNzSJ

Quote that might help

Pearl balls are designed to skid more in the oil and react more quickly to the friction. Keep in mind that "covering more boards" is purely a result of when the ball responds to the friction. If you use a pearl ball to get to the friction that is past the pattern, it will cover fewer boards, but retain more energy to knock down the pins. If you use a pearl ball to react to the friction that is on the outside of the pattern, then it will cover more boards and probably be dead by the time it gets to the pins.

[bowl1820]

More surface = more traction in the oil.
Less surface = more reaction to the friction.
Too much surface in friction = ball straightening out and hitting like a marshmallow.

or the old saying

"A sanded ball hooks less but earlier and a polished ball hooks more but later."

[MICHAEL]

Mike in your first post you asked "Would ruff buff, take care of it, is it leagal?"
I answered "Well Rough Buff would be illegal to use during league play."

Rough Buff and ruff buff are the same thing, "Brunswick’s Rough Buff"

Now you can change the surface before you bowl that would be legal. Would Rough Buff make a difference? It would depend on what the surface was before you used it.


Yes you could remove some polish with a green pad before you bowl, that could even the reaction out some.

Some other things to try are change your release some, target a little farther down the lane, move your line inside to stay in the oil longer


Yes if you polish a ball it will skid more in oil and save energy.

You might read the article in the last issue of BTM about playing the inside line. it could help.
http://conta.cc/19qNzSJ

Quote that might help

thanks to both of you,,, I will keep the information in mind, and try applying that knowledge to what ever situation comes up Sunday! THANKS for taking the time to help this old burnt up retired Iron worker...

[MICHAEL]

More surface = more traction in the oil.
Less surface = more reaction to the friction.
Too much surface in friction = ball straightening out and hitting like a marshmallow.

or the old saying

"A sanded ball hooks less but earlier and a polished ball hooks more but later."

maybe a stupid question, but why would you even want to throw a Matte, or sanded surface if it "hits like a marshmallows?"

I know that a matte ball takes on the oil early, as does a sanded low grit ball, but if it effects the hitting power by eating up the energy,,,, ,, then why would you want to throw one with that surface,, I for one would not want a marshmallow hit.. LOL

[bowl1820]

maybe a stupid question, but why would you even want to throw a Matte, or sanded surface if it "hits like a marshmallows?"

I know that a matte ball takes on the oil early, as does a sanded low grit ball, but if it effects the hitting power by eating up the energy,,,, ,, then why would you want to throw one with that surface,, I for one would not want a marshmallow hit.. LOL

What it said was "Too much surface in friction = ball straightening out and hitting like a marshmallow."

Not that a sanded ball would hit like a marshmallow.

[MICHAEL]

What it said was "Too much surface in friction = ball straightening out and hitting like a marshmallow."

Not that a sanded ball would hit like a marshmallow.

I guess the TRICKY thing is knowing what amount of surface on a matte ball needs before it turns into a marshmallow!! LOL

I appreciate your patience with me on this matter!

One other question: can you put on too much polish? Say I divide the ball in half, and put the Reacta Shine on both halfs, after cleaning with cleaning fluid.
If I were to divide it into 4th,, or 6ths, would that polish overlap build up, or does the nature of the polish just go on a certain amount regardless?

doesn't it reach a point of diminishing returns in regards to how many coats a person puts on?

Does one coat make a ball behave any differently then Two, or 3???

Once I get this all straight in my head, I know I will do a better job getting my balls ready for what ever might be waiting!

[MICHAEL]

Now does it make much difference after two coats... just wasting your polish!

[Stormed1]

If you want to calm it a little hit it with a 2k and then 4k pad, It will do wonders to calm the ball without killing the hit

[MICHAEL]

If you want to calm it a little hit it with a 2k and then 4k pad, It will do wonders to calm the ball without killing the hit

after I hit it with the 2k, and 4k, do I then put the Reacta shine on the ball? It is a Virtual Gravity nano pearl! I use a spinner to clean and polish! How would you apply polish, 2 sides, or 4 sides?

Your not saying use the 2k, and 4k on top of the polish are you??

[Stormed1]

The 2k will knock the polish off and then the 4k will be your finish on the ball. NO POLISH! The ball will oil shine which will get it through the heads and the 4k will calm the back ends

[MICHAEL]

The 2k will knock the polish off and then the 4k will be your finish on the ball. NO POLISH! The ball will oil shine which will get it through the heads and the 4k will calm the back ends

thanks for making that clear!! OK..... I guess I need TWO virtual gravity nano pearls.... one with the high polish, ( the one that gave me the 300/780 last week, and one that will have the 4000 finish, for when its too reactive at the end like is sometimes depending on lanes/oil!

That's what's weird about oil and different lanes, You never know what to expect each week, even throw they lay the same pattern down! It probably has a lot to do also with WHO YOU ARE BOWLING, and how they effect the oil.

Of all of Storms new ball out, is there a ball VERY similar to the V.G. Nano pearl,,,, is the new Byte basically the same ball in your opinion, or do you think it would be better to just get another one, and do the surface changes you mentioned. Would you change the drilling, to take some of the flip out of the ball?http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg546/imagine686868/DSC00259_zpse624c4e0.jpg (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/imagine686868/media/DSC00259_zpse624c4e0.jpg.html)

Also,,, does it make a difference how many coats of polish you put on a ball?? Is there a point of diminishing returns in that regards...... ice
What does this lay out tell you in regards to pin position... is that something I should consider changing to get less flip?

[sprocket]

Doesn't Mo Pinel say "Hide the f'n polish"?

[MICHAEL]

Doesn't Mo Pinel say "Hide the f'n polish"?

I don't know Mo Pine personally, but what does that mean hide the polish??? Like don't use it,,,put it in a safe place,,,,? Some balls will react way to soon without the polish, helps get it through the front part of the lanes without losing energy, so I am told!

[bowl1820]

I don't know Mo Pine personally, but what does that mean hide the polish??? Like don't use it!

Simply, Yes don't use it.

Mo Pinel Basically advocates not using polishes,to finish the ball. Because it's harder to apply it the same way every time, so you should just use the pads, sandpapers etc. to have a more consistent result.

[MICHAEL]

Simply, Yes don't use it.

Mo Pinel Basically advocates not using polishes,to finish the ball. Because it's harder to apply it the same way every time, so you use should just use the pads, sandpapers etc. to have a more consistent result.

hummmm, seems pretty easy, and even to apply with the spinner???? splits the ball in half, two sides, or do a four side application? Does he mean doing it by hand, because I would agree 100 percent with that analysis, but the spinner even for cleaning a ball does a very precise job in my opinion.

thanks for the clarifications bowl1820!!

[bowl1820]

http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg546/imagine686868/DSC00259_zpse624c4e0.jpg (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/imagine686868/media/DSC00259_zpse624c4e0.jpg.html)

What does this lay out tell you in regards to pin position... is that something I should consider changing to get less flip?


Depending on your PAP location, This looks like it might be a what's called a "Stacked Leverage".

"Stacked Leverage" is where the pin and Cg are both 3 3/8" from your PAP, usually requires an extra balance hole. The stacked leverage layout maximizes the initial flaring rate.



The first part of "stacked leverage" is the pin position.

Here's what you need to know about layouts with a 3.5-4.0 inch pin-to-PAP (positive axis point) layout. This is the “leverage” part of “stacked leverage”. Disregard all other factors such as extra holes, mass bias, and center of gravity for the moment. This pin position allows the ball to tap into its maximum flare potential (You're "leveraging" the ball's full flare potential/imbalance). Flare potential changes from ball to ball, based on its core shape, density, placement, etc. The greater the radius of gyration differential (often just called “differential”) the greater the flare potential of the ball. Flare is the result of the core causing the ball to “wobble” as it travels down the lane. On a flaring ball, with each revolution of the ball, the ball rolls over a different part of its cover. You may see oil rings on your ball that resemble a bow tie in two places on the surface of the ball.

The end result of flare is that the ball will hook more in the oil. The reason being that as the ball revolves and flares, a new, clean part of the surface of the ball comes in contact with the lane allowing for maximum friction. The opposite would be a ball that does not flare or flares very little. Now, as the ball rolls through the oil, the same part of the surface of the ball contacts the lane and more and more oil/conditioner builds up on the same part of the ball. That means less friction and less hook.

More flare does not create more hook where there is no or little oil/conditioner. Actually, with a reactive resin ball, a flaring ball may hook less on the dry part of the lane than a non-flaring ball. This is because of the nature of what makes reactive resin “reactive”. As the ball encounters friction, the surface of the ball heats up. As “reactive” resin heats up, it become more tacky or “sticky”. That means a lower coefficient of sliding friction. The ball can "grab" onto the lane and hook more. A ball that flares will heat up the surface of the ball at different points on the surface of the ball. A non-flaring ball will heat up the part of the ball in contact with the lane over and over again. More heat, more tackiness, more grab, more reaction, more hook. (Assuming the ball isn't hooked out).

So if you add the two above together, balls with maximum flare tend to hook more in the oil and less on the dry than their non-flaring or weaker-flaring counter parts. The overall effect is that the shape of the ball will tend to be more like a banana and less like a hockey stick.

The other part of this layout, the “stacked” part of “stacked leverage” refers to the mass bias (and center of gravity on a symmetric cored ball) being directly “under” the pin - actually being the same distance from the positive axis point – thus the pin is “stacked” on top of the mass bias (center of gravity on symmetric balls).

There is much debate as to whether or not this part of the layout has any noticeable effect for balls with a symmetric core. I will not feed the trolls. For the sake of completeness, if there is a noticeable difference it is a small difference that can easily be created by changing any number of factors such as sanding the ball, polishing the ball, throwing the ball faster/slower, etc.

For balls with asymmetric cores, the layout creates the “strongest” starting point (or perhaps better worded as the most distant starting point) from which the ball can seek its preferred spin axis. If you don’t understand all that, don’t worry. You really need to have a good understanding of 4-dimensional physics (time being the 4rth) to understand intermediate spin differentials, preferred spin axis, axis migration time, etc. All you need to understand is that when the mass bias on an asymmetric ball is placed in this location, it aligns the core in such a fashion so that it delays hook as much as possible. That doesn’t mean that the ball will hook less, just that it will wait until it is further from the foul line before it hooks when compared to balls with (all other factors being equal) the same pin position but with the mass bias being in a different position. You’ve just taken your banana-like ball reaction shape and turned it into a banana-on-a-stick ball reaction.

Remember that none of this takes into account the bowler’s release, chosen line (is the bowler throwing it into the gutter?), rev rate, speed, etc. We’re isolating to the ball layout and comparing it to what other ball layouts create. You mileage can and will vary due to other factors.

[sprocket]

I don't know Mo Pine personally, but what does that mean hide the polish??? Like don't use it,,,put it in a safe place,,,,? Some balls will react way to soon without the polish, helps get it through the front part of the lanes without losing energy, so I am told!

I'm not 100% sure what all of Mo's gripes are with polish so I'll just tell you my theory. Warning: My theory could be completely wrong.

So lets say you sanded the ball to 1000 and then looked at it under a microscope. I am imagining seeing peeks and valleys and the peeks are sharp. Now take the ball to 2000 and look at it again under magnification. I am imagining seeing peeks and valleys that are smaller than before and the tops of the peeks are still sharp. Now take it to 4000. If I'm right so far, then the peeks and valleys should be smaller still, meaning a finer grain, and the peeks are still sharp.

Now let's go back to when the ball was at 2000. So you have a ball at 2000 and you hit it with polish and then look at it under a microscope. Now I am imagining the same peeks and valleys as before polishing but now the tops of the peeks are BLUNT instead of sharp. Maybe the valleys are even partially clogged with polish. Perhaps without magnification the ball looks quite similar to a 4000 sanded ball, but which is better? A ball that still has its "teeth" or a ball with larger blunted teeth? I would think the ball sanded to 4000 with small but sharp teeth is better and more predictable.

Also, maybe once you reach 4000 trying to use polish to tame the ball even more is a bad idea. Perhaps at that point a better choice is a ball that is tamer to start with or a different layout.

[MICHAEL]

I'm not 100% sure what all of Mo's gripes are with polish so I'll just tell you my theory. Warning: My theory could be completely wrong.

So lets say you sanded the ball to 1000 and then looked at it under a microscope. I am imagining seeing peeks and valleys and the peeks are sharp. Now take the ball to 2000 and look at it again under magnification. I am imagining seeing peeks and valleys that are smaller than before and the tops of the peeks are still sharp. Now take it to 4000. If I'm right so far, then the peeks and valleys should be smaller still, meaning a finer grain, and the peeks are still sharp.

Now let's go back to when the ball was at 2000. So you have a ball at 2000 and you hit it with polish and then look at it under a microscope. Now I am imagining the same peeks and valleys as before polishing but now the tops of the peeks are BLUNT instead of sharp. Maybe the valleys are even partially clogged with polish. Perhaps without magnification the ball looks quite similar to a 4000 sanded ball, but which is better? A ball that still has its "teeth" or a ball with larger blunted teeth? I would think the ball sanded to 4000 with small but sharp teeth is better and more predictable.

Also, maybe once you reach 4000 trying to use polish to tame the ball even more is a bad idea. Perhaps at that point a better choice is a ball that is tamer to start with or a different layout.

I get you point about the peeks and valleys, BUT when a ball has polish, it keeps the energy in the ball and saves it for the dry part of the lane! A ball can lose its hooking ability, and I have seen it happen, when the polish is removed! If you looking for that flip motion, with a pearl ball like the IQ pearl for instance, take the polish off and its a dog,,, no flip, burnt out before it gets to the hook stage of the delivery!

So polish does have its place, and a ball will behave differently with a 4000grit and lets say a 4000 with polish! My Virtual Gravity Nanno Pearl works great on fresh house oil, with a 4000 and polish. Great Flip, but if the oil on the lanes is light, or dry it burns up before it even gets there, with much less flip.

Some balls need oil, to get throw the heads, and polish seems to help on some balls, like my IQ pearl, and Virtual Gravity ..... the more polish the bigger the flip.

[bowl1820]

hummmm, seems pretty easy, and even to apply with the spinner???? splits the ball in half, two sides, or do a four side application? Does he mean doing it by hand, because I would agree 100 percent with that analysis, but the spinner even for cleaning a ball does a very precise job in my opinion.

thanks for the clarifications bowl1820!!

I don't know the exact reasoning to it, I haven't found a exact quote where he talks about it just comments and there are some contradictory comments.

I think it has to do with getting consistent results, polishes have more variables when used even on a spinner. Things like how much polish you apply, how hard you press and for how long you you spin it while applying pressure and polish.

[Stormed1]

Depending on your axis measurements the ball appears to have a strtong layout with a narrow VAL angle which is condusaive to a strong flip style motion

[MICHAEL]

Depending on your axis measurements the ball appears to have a strtong layout with a narrow VAL angle which is condusaive to a strong flip style motion

It definatly has a strong flip at the end!! And when the oil, and people we are bowling match up, and they don't push the oil into bad places, a great thing can happen... a 300 game, and 780 series!! I think back to the middle game where I was having some carry problems, that I worked out by the third game,, but if only 20 more pins in that middle game some where,,, and a 800 series!! GRRRRRRRRRR!!! 300, 216 264! That middle game cost me the 800, and I had many pocket hits but 10 pins, and 7's!

Since then it has been several times too strong to use, even for game one! Its an oil specific ball,,, if its right,,,, hang on and go to town!! I used the following week a Freight Train, 14lb,,, and it gave me a 637. First time I have used it for 3 games without changing to another ball. It was my wifes ball, and she didn't like it, too strong for her.

[bowl1820]

hummmm, seems pretty easy, and even to apply with the spinner???? splits the ball in half, two sides, or do a four side application? Does he mean doing it by hand, because I would agree 100 percent with that analysis, but the spinner even for cleaning a ball does a very precise job in my opinion.

thanks for the clarifications bowl1820!!

Okay here's a direct quote from Mo Pinel about using polish.

Mo Pinel:
Polishing a bowling ball is the most difficult process to repeat! The standard deviation on the polishing process is high. It has its place. I prefer smoother, non polished, surfaces, 4000 or even a white pad. I don't like introducing a foreign substance as a primary alternative.

[MICHAEL]

Okay here's a direct quote from Mo Pinel about using polish.

Mo Pinel:
Polishing a bowling ball is the most difficult process to repeat! The standard deviation on the polishing process is high. It has its place. I prefer smoother, non polished, surfaces, 4000 or even a white pad. I don't like introducing a foreign substance as a primary alternative.

I would ask Mo Pinel,, what about the sanding, is it not JUST as difficult a process to do uniformly, and repeat??? I say once a ball has be resurfaced by any human being, its never going to be the same! Even while you are sanding, you might apply more pressure at some point on the ball, and for sure it will vary,
as much as the inconsistency of applying polish with my spinner. They seem to just be two different sides of the same card.

I think the same comment he makes about the polish, (and some balls require polish according to the manufacturer), would apply to sanding a ball with any grit. Apply polish is not a bad thing IMHA, when I had my 780, and 300 game last week, I put it on the spinner, cleaned it, and applied polish pretty darn good I would say,,, LOL (I polish the ball in halfs)

Some balls are designed to have polish, and lose energy without it, a 4000 matte in my opinion, on a ball that is designed for polish does not behave the same to me,,, but what the hell do I know. compared to a True Bowling God... (:)

[sprocket]

Well Iceman, I think you're starting to sway me. Nothing beats theory better than real world experience! I'd almost forgotten my own polish success story so hear goes:

I was bowling a Sunday morning tournament and yes, it was the same one from my post in the other thread but I wasn't the tournament director back then. The format at that time was bowl three games and cut to the top one third. Then bowl another three games and then stepladder for the top five. So I bowled the first three games with a Black U-dot and the first two games were really good but I started getting too much hook the third game and it was much lower. I still made the cut. Before the second round I decided to throw the ball in the Luster King. I'm not sure what those things put on the ball but I think there was like a wedge of wax that the ball spun against.

So the Luster King door opens and the ball is GLOWING. Holy Sh!t it's WAY too shiny! BTW I don't know how much of this applies to modern resin balls but let me finish my story anyway! So the next thing that happens is we find out there was a scheduling conflict and there is another tournament coming in that has reserved the lanes we just bowled on, so they are moving us to the other end of the house. Well, back then people actually used to open bowl and those lanes had seen some use by open bowlers that morning. Also that end of the house has always hooked more than the other.

So we start warmups and my shot looks pretty good! I start the first game with spare, strike, spare, then an 8-10 split. I then proceeded to throw the next 23 STRIKES IN A ROW! I had 300 the middle game (too bad it wasn't sanctioned) and I think 783 for the series. So then I had to wait around for quite awhile because I was top seed for stepladder. No one else was even close to my score. So I'm going to win this right? FORGET IT. I left the 8-10 three times in the tittle match and shot 160 something. This was back when I had a ton of hand but it was also back in the era of true carry down. My highly polished miracle ball had given me all it was going to give. Plus my adrenaline high was all gone....

Anyway that's my story. I guess polish has its place!

[bowl1820]

I would ask Mo Pinel,, what about the sanding, is it not JUST as difficult a process to do uniformly, and repeat???
He didn't really say it was difficult to do uniformly, but that it was difficult to repeat!



I say once a ball has be resurfaced by any human being, its never going to be the same! Even while you are sanding, you might apply more pressure at some point on the ball,
That's true enough



and for sure it will vary,as much as the inconsistency of applying polish with my spinner. They seem to just be two different sides of the same card.I think the same comment he makes about the polish, (and some balls require polish according to the manufacturer), would apply to sanding a ball with any grit.
Now this is where the "The standard deviation on the polishing process is high." part comes in. I believe he's referring to how much the surface varies from the last time you did it to the next when using polish versus doing the same thing with pads and such that it would have less variation.



Apply polish is not a bad thing IMHA, when I had my 780, and 300 game last week, I put it on the spinner, cleaned it, and applied polish pretty darn good I would say,,, LOL (I polish the ball in halfs)
Now he didn't come out and say you couldn't use it, that "It has its place." and the he prefered smoother, non polished, surfaces.


Some balls are designed to have polish, and lose energy without it,a 4000 matte in my opinion, on a ball that is designed for polish does not behave the same to me,,, but what the hell do I know. compared to a True Bowling God... (:)
Of course a ball with polish will react differently without it. But that doesn't mean you couldn't achieve the same reaction using the right combinations of grits.

Now me I'm not saying don't use polish, as long as it gives you the result you want then do it.



Some balls are designed to have polish

This makes me think of this post by Rob Mautner:

The whole concept of the OOB finish being somehow sacred drives me crazy. I think that bowlers have this vision of ball designers sitting around, trying to come up with the "magic" finish that will make this (whatever ball it happens to be), the greatest bowling ball of all time. That's simply not the case. Basic marketing says that you define your "target" consumer and design you product to appeal to that consume. If the "target" consumer (bowler) for a particular ball happens to be a high speed, high rev, balanced bowler, the OOB will be perfect for that imaginary bowler. If you happen to be a medium rev, medium speed balanced bowler, then, for that ball to work for you, YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE SURFACE. It's that simple. At least 60% of bowlers will not be successful with any particular bowling ball using the OOB finish.

[bowl1820]

.........a Black U-dot ........ the Luster King..........modern resin balls................I guess polish has its place!

Well today most consider putting your ball in the luster king the worst thing you could do.

Because it packs the pores full (Especially if they put the wrong compound block in, I seen that happen. At this one house I was at they tried this new compound block in the machine and all the balls that got polished in it totally quit working. You couldn't make it hook at all and they had to sand the balls to get the stuff off the cover.).

And a lot of people think it's a cleaning machine (it's not, it's polisher) and it justs grind the dirt/oil into the cover (That's why you should clean the ball first if you do use it)

I think their okay if you want to shine up your plastic ball and maybe a urethane ball (like the Black U-dot).

[Mike White]

Well today most consider putting your ball in the luster king the worst thing you could do.

Because it packs the pores full (Especially if they put the wrong compound block in, I seen that happen. At this one house I was at they tried this new compound block in the machine and all the balls that got polished in it totally quit working. You couldn't make it hook at all and they had to sand the balls to get the stuff off the cover.).

And a lot of people think it's a cleaning machine (it's not, it's polisher) and it justs grind the dirt/oil into the cover (That's why you should clean the ball first bif you do use it)

I think their okay if you want to shine up your plastic ball and maybe a urethane ball (like the Black U-dot).

Yesterday a guy came in to the shop and requested I polish the ball, and for the first time ever, I suggested he use the luster king instead.

Of course what he brought in was an old Brunswick Black Beauty.

[sprocket]

I honestly don't even know if the lanes had been oiled on that end of the house. It looked like everybody elses ball was grabbing the lane much earlier than mine. It was just a day when by accident all the pieces fell into place. It probably wasn't a good idea to use a Luster King on a urethane ball either. They are still porous unlike plastic and no doubt I clogged the pores. Isn't a resin ball STILL a urethane ball just with additives? Isn't the porosity of the cover stocks basically the same?

[bowl1820]

They are still porous unlike plastic and no doubt I clogged the pores. Isn't a resin ball STILL a urethane ball just with additives? Isn't the porosity of the cover stocks basically the same?

Plastic/Urethane/resin are all porous, but to different degrees and Plastic and Urethane are not designed to absorb oil like resin ball does. So plugging pores on them isn't a big problem.

The pores on resin are a lot different and designed to draw oil away from the surface. If they are clogged then the oil can't be drew away, that's also why they usually sand a ball before deep cleaning. If the pores have gotten clogged then the oil is trapped inside.

Heres a picture of the ball surface where you can see the difference:
http://s5.postimg.org/4rnw4rfif/Ball_Surface_101_8.jpg


This is a older article , but you can see a little more here:

Ball Surface 101
http://bowlingknowledge.info/images/stories/bk_surface_101.pdf