Differance in coverstocks???

[YODA]

Looking at getting a new Rotogrip ball. Looking at the Totally Defiant, Distrubed, or Defiant Soul. They all have differant coverstocks. I am interested in the Defiant Soul due to its hybrid coverstock. Honestly as much as I have been bowling I know very little about the differant coverstocks and how they affect the ball, depending on the oil on lanes.

[Stormed1]

Solids will read the lane sooner and be smoother. Pearls will push farther down the lane and be more angular. Hybrids are the best of both worlds, longer than a solid with a more angular move but noy as long or flippy as a pearl

[bowl1820]

All three balls have almost the same numbers as far as RG and the Soul and Tot. defiant are both asymmetrical's.

So you might see just how they compare with your other balls.

Defiant Soul Hybrid asymmetrical rg 2.49
Disturbed Solid symmetrical rg 2.50
Totally Defiant Pearl asymmetrical rg 2.49

[RobLV1]

The combination of cover materials and surfaces is almost endless. Solids find more friction in the oil, but react more smoothly on the dry parts of the lane. Pearls find less friction in the oil (more skid), but react more violently when they find the dry. Hybrids, as stated below, combine the two materials and tend to smooth out the reactions in both the oil and the dry. Now, when you combine these characteristics with surface options, you get a whole array of variations to choose from. Balls with more surface find more friction in the oil, but react to the dry less violently, while polished balls do just the opposite.

A lot of surface material/ surface is a matter of personal preference. Personally, of the 14 balls that I currently use for all different centers and lane conditions, there is not one pearl for the simple reason that I have never had any success with pearls. With this being said, all of the hybrids and many of the solids are polished.

[Geneo2u]

The combination of cover materials and surfaces is almost endless. Solids find more friction in the oil, but react more smoothly on the dry parts of the lane. Pearls find less friction in the oil (more skid), but react more violently when they find the dry. Hybrids, as stated below, combine the two materials and tend to smooth out the reactions in both the oil and the dry. Now, when you combine these characteristics with surface options, you get a whole array of variations to choose from. Balls with more surface find more friction in the oil, but react to the dry less violently, while polished balls do just the opposite.

A lot of surface material/ surface is a matter of personal preference. Personally, of the 14 balls that I currently use for all different centers and lane conditions, there is not one pearl for the simple reason that I have never had any success with pearls. With this being said, all of the hybrids and many of the solids are polished.

Great explanation, So many times i have seen guys with 4 or 6 balls that are all drilled and surfaced for maximum hook. Seems like they would all do about the same thing... then they think they need a new ball...

[MICHAEL]

The combination of cover materials and surfaces is almost endless. Solids find more friction in the oil, but react more smoothly on the dry parts of the lane. Pearls find less friction in the oil (more skid), but react more violently when they find the dry. Hybrids, as stated below, combine the two materials and tend to smooth out the reactions in both the oil and the dry. Now, when you combine these characteristics with surface options, you get a whole array of variations to choose from. Balls with more surface find more friction in the oil, but react to the dry less violently, while polished balls do just the opposite.

A lot of surface material/ surface is a matter of personal preference. Personally, of the 14 balls that I currently use for all different centers and lane conditions, there is not one pearl for the simple reason that I have never had any success with pearls. With this being said, all of the hybrids and many of the solids are polished.


Are you saying that in regards to YOUR balls, many are Polished, or in general hybirds, and solids many are polished by the manufactures?

I know it depends on the pattern, but to on a typical house pattern, ( if that creature exists), do you have a ball that you gravitate too with your style of bowling. I know you mentioned that new Storm ball.

Some say NEVER use polish, it's too hard to apply properly, go with sanding, say a 4000 surface!

[RobLV1]

I'm saying that in reference to my own bowling balls, based on my own preferences. Just like a great majority of pearl balls are polished, which makes perfect sense in that pearls are made to skid more in the oil and react move to friction, solids are usually left dull for better read in the oil. I tend to gravitate toward polished solids and hybrids because I am looking for more skid in the oil because of my medium ball speed (16.25mph) and a less than totally violent reaction to the dry because my medium/low rev rate (270 rpm) usually forces me to play closer to the friction on the outside than the higher rev/speed players.

As for the Zero Gravity, I'm still finding my way with it as it has a totally different reaction than I'm used to seeing. Generally, I vary my arsenal based on the center that I'm bowling that day.

You should not avoid polishes because they're too hard to duplicate. If you like polished balls, either buy a ball spinner, or pay your proshop to polish it for you. It seems like high rev, high speed guys avoid polish. Some of us old guys need it!

[MICHAEL]

I'm saying that in reference to my own bowling balls, based on my own preferences.

that makes perfect sense!

Just like a great majority of pearl balls are polished, which makes perfect sense in that pearls are made to skid more in the oil and react move to friction, solids are usually left dull for better read in the oil. I tend to gravitate toward polished solids and hybrids because I am looking for more skid in the oil because of my medium ball speed (16.25mph) and a less than totally violent reaction to the dry because my medium/low rev rate (270 rpm) usually forces me to play closer to the friction on the outside than the higher rev/speed players.

As for the Zero Gravity, I'm still finding my way with it as it has a totally different reaction than I'm used to seeing. Generally, I vary my arsenal based on the center that I'm bowling that day.

You should not avoid polishes because they're too hard to duplicate. If you like polished balls, either buy a ball spinner, or pay your proshop to polish it for you. It seems like high rev, high speed guys avoid polish. Some of us old guys need it!


In other words, is a solid, as you call it, the same as a matte? If I am getting you right here, a matte ball can be polished to keep it from doing exactly what it was designed to do read early??? LOL

Or does it create something in between a Peal ball, and a matte ball?

Sounds like so far the Zero Gravity is a questionable ball in your arsenal? The reason I say that, when I first pulled my IQ pearl out of the box, after being drilled, I had a 300 my second game of league, on House pattern. It was love at first Roll!

Then almost 6 months later, I pulled an older ball off the racks that I actually had plugged and redrilled and had another 300, It was the virtual Gravity nano pearl.

My dilemma is two different types of ball, both got the job done beautifully, I am not sure which core of bowling ball best suits up to me...LOL symmetrical, or asymmetrical.... Both were pearl balls with high polish! But entirely different cores.

Same pattern, sure, but different days, and lanes. I do have a spinner and use it every time I get home from bowling to clean the balls. I use the simply Green, and alcohol, but do use Reacta-shine on all my balls for polish

fast speed, and high rev's,, Matte balls
slow speed, and low rev's ,, pearl balls
medium speed, and medium revs, polish matte

the above is just generally speaking a good guide line??? your opinion? I can tell NOW that many variables come to play when PICKING the right ball! Just as important is having it drilled correctly based on several things including you PAP. YOUR THOUGHTS!! (:)

Just to add another interesting thing to the equation, I have 16, 15, and 14lb balls, They all feel great, when I am throwing them. I do get more revs with the 14lb ball, and have had some nice high 600 series with it, but then I haven't had it that long. both 300s this year were with 15lb'ers including my recent 780.

Why the different weights???? ,,, I like to experiment! LOL

[RobLV1]

MICHAEL:

1. The difference between solid reactives and pearl reactives is the addition of flakes of mica to the solid material to create the pearl material. This is part of the chemical makeup of the materials that differentiates them from hybrid covers which combines the two different types of materials into one cover. It is the intent of the hybrid material to provide some the the solid materials ability to read the mid-lane with the pearl materials ability to react to the back end. Changing the surface is a way that bowlers can adjust ball reaction based on a particular lane condition or the lane characteristics of a particular bowling center. This is a lot like the layout, except that the layout should be based more on the characteristics of the bowler as it is not nearly as easily changed.

2. So far, I have not found a single bowling center where the Zero Gravity has not worked for me. It definately has a long-term home in my arsenal. From what I've seen so far, the pin-up layout will be the one that I will take with me to bowl on a house shot and the pin-down ball will become part of my arsenal for certain types of tournament conditions.

3. As I've posted before, the one thing that ball drillers and coaches pretty much universally agree on is that changing between ball weights is a really bad idea. I know some bowlers say they can do it, but frankly it can and does mess with your timing. When your timing gets out of whack, your bowling goes down the toilet.

[Bunny]

Rob-Question...I have a new HyRoad Pearl that I'm not getting much movement with. I've tried it on THS fresh and burnt, Mexico City, Seoul, and Main Street patterns. It just sits there. My other balls First Blood, Rising Star, and even the Path Rising I won hook nicely for me. I may have the HRP redrilled at some point, but for now I'd like to play with the surface a bit.

Going to the pro shop this afternoon. I was thinking 500 then 2000. What do you think? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!!

[RobLV1]

Bunny: Sorry I didn't get back to you before you went to the proshop. Based on the variety of conditions on which you've tried the ball and your comment that you're not getting much movement from the ball, I doubt that just a surface change is going to give you what you're looking for. The pearl cover material is meant to skid in the oil and show a strong reaction to friction. If you're not seeing that reaction in terms of lateral movement (hook), then the layout probably needs to be changed. How is the ball drilled in relation to the other balls you use?

[Bunny]

Thanks Rob! No worries. It was short notice. Bowl1820 was on it!

Yep. The HRP is not reading the dry/friction. The HRP is pin down. Not sure about the pin to pap and all that. My others are pin up above the ring finger. So definitely thinking I'll need to change the layout for the HRP to work best for me. (Had a long discussion with the pro shop second in command before we drilled it. He's been under Barry's tutelage for several years and is very good. He's seen me bowl and I thought we figured out a good layout. Oh well, now we know!)

I'm gonna try the 500/2000 surface and see what happens. In the meantime saving my change for a plug and redrill. :cool:

[larry mc]

Solids will read the lane sooner and be smoother. Pearls will push farther down the lane and be more angular. Hybrids are the best of both worlds, longer than a solid with a more angular move but noy as long or flippy as a pearl
nailed it

[Aslan]

I was just trying to figure this out last night.

My Rhythym has a RG of 2.48 and a diff. of .045. The ball I'm looking to switch to has a 2.50 rg and a 0.052 diff and is assymetric.

So taking surfaces and drilling out of the equation, it seems that the new ball would give me "slightly" more length with a more angular back end; especially since it's assymetric. Is that a correct interpretation?

Now, still leaving drilling aside, the confusing part is the Rhythm is a solid coverstock with a Matte finish. It claims to be 2000 Abralon. The new ball is a pearl coverstock that also claims to be 2000 Abralon "polished". So, and here's where I get lost...it seems that the Rhythm being matte and solid would start hooking earlier. Yet the new ball being pearl and polished would go a little longer. I "think" thats right.

But it's confusing because it seems like I should be getting "more hook" out of the Rhythm given it's surface...but I'm not. And I'm thinking it's because of the symmetric core. I "think" the reason I struggle when I move inside...(my "C-game") is the Rhythm isn't designed to have that angular snap that you need to play that line. At least not for a stroker/tweener with low revs. Sure the ball reps, thumbless, and 2-handed guys can get ANY ball to come back...but for more traditional bowlers like myself it's really, really tough to get a symmetric core ball to "snap". And I'm starting to think thats less about "my lack of game" and more that symmetric cores aren't designed for that purpose.

Okay experts Bowl1820 and RobM...feel free to tear the above post apart and point out my complete newb bowling ignorance! :cool:

[circlecity]

Lord Field has a new coverstock

New Aeration Coverstock prevents oil penetration leaving a cleaner surface in the backends.

http://www.lfbowling.com/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/9448-get-some

[bowl1820]

I was just trying to figure this out last night.

My Rhythym has a RG of 2.48 and a diff. of .045. The ball I'm looking to switch to has a 2.50 rg and a 0.052 diff and is assymetric.


So taking surfaces and drilling out of the equation, it seems that the new ball would give me "slightly" more length with a more angular back end; especially since it's assymetric. Is that a correct interpretation?
Pretty much, though 2.48 to 2.50 isn't that much different.


Now, still leaving drilling aside, the confusing part is the Rhythm is a solid coverstock with a Matte finish. It claims to be 2000 Abralon. The new ball is a pearl coverstock that also claims to be 2000 Abralon "polished". So, and here's where I get lost...it seems that the Rhythm being matte and solid would start hooking earlier. Yet the new ball being pearl and polished would go a little longer. I "think" thats right.
Your okay here. Solid,matte surface will read earlier. The polished pearl will go longer, read a little later.



But it's confusing because it seems like I should be getting "more hook" out of the Rhythm given it's surface...but I'm not.

Dull balls hook less than smooth balls, but hook earlier. (Smooths out the reaction)
Smooth balls hook more than dull balls, but hook later. (Has a sharper reaction)


And I'm thinking it's because of the symmetric core.
Technically all symmetrical balls are Asymmetrical after they have been drill. (It's just the degree of asymmetry is smaller than one that starts out Asymmetrical)


I "think" the reason I struggle when I move inside...(my "C-game") is the Rhythm isn't designed to have that angular snap that you need to play that line. At least not for a stroker/tweener with low revs. Sure the ball reps, thumbless, and 2-handed guys can get ANY ball to come back...but for more traditional bowlers like myself it's really, really tough to get a symmetric core ball to "snap". And I'm starting to think thats less about "my lack of game" and more that symmetric cores aren't designed for that purpose.

You can play inside with a symmetrical core, you just need to play closer to the head pin and not try and swing it outside so far.


Okay experts Bowl1820 and RobM...feel free to tear the above post apart and point out my complete newb bowling ignorance! :cool:

[Aslan]

You can play inside with a symmetrical core, you just need to play closer to the head pin and not try and swing it outside so far.

Thank you Bowl1820. You are once again a wealth of knowledge. But… ….I got nothin.

Thats exactly what I've struggled with. I watch Rob and the staffers line up way inside…throw out to the break point and "snap" it back into the pocket. When I play inside I'm standing barely left of center and throwing out towards the 13-14 board. Because if I move any left of that…it just sails right and "sorta" comes back in time to hit the 3 or 6 pin. : (

[RobLV1]

After making the video of the Zero Gravity with the pin up drilling, I decided that I liked the reaction so much that I would try the same layout on a Reign of Power that I had resurfaced to 2000 abralon + Powerhouse Factory finish. The Reign of Power has a symmetrical core, and an rg of 2.57 vs. the Zero Gravity with an rg of 2.33 and a 4000 abralon unpolished finished. What I found was a slight difference in length due to the rg difference, very little difference in terms of the strength of the reaction (probably because the intermediate differential on the Zero Gravity is pretty low), but a big difference in terms of the reaction going down the lane. When I have lots of hold in the middle of the lane, and some, but not too much, friction on the outside, I use the Zero Gravity. When there is less hold in the middle, I get more skid from the polished surface of the Reign of Power, and just as strong of a reaction to the friction on the outside. The polished surface also has less tendency to burn up at the spot than the unpolished surface.

To sum up: Polishing a surface gives it more skid in the oil, and also a more violent reaction when it sees friction. An unpolished surface finds more friction in the oil and a less violent reaction to the dry, but more easily burns up if there is too much friction.

Make sense?

[bowl1820]

the Zero Gravity with an rg of 2.33

A 2.33 RG????

Storm Zero Gravity Ball Specs:
- Radius of Gyration (RG): 2.55**
- Differential (Diff): 0.037**
- ** RG and Diff are based off of 15 lb. balls