Bake vs Bath?

[MICHAEL]

I wonder witch method is better in regards to de-oiling a ball.

1. Does one do a better job, then the other?

2. As far a ball longevity does bake, or bath do any damage to the composition of the balls materials, like change the molecular structure of the elements that go into the make up of the ball?

If I knew for sure that they were about the same, then I will just stick with the more labor intensive hot bath!

Some say not to get the hot water in the finger holes, that it will soak into the ball core? They say to use duct tape to keep the water out. Is this true, that the water needs to be kept out of the balls holes?

OPPS,,, I just did my Lucid the other day, after taking it down to 360, let it soak in hot water with Dawn Soap, but did not put tape over the thumb/finger holes!

[tccstudent]

I currently have a ball being baked. It has been baking for over a week and oil is still coming out. So while a hot bath may get the oil out I think it is gonna take way too long to just sit there and bath it over and over in order to get the same result as taking it to the proshop and baking it properly.

[Ptnomore]

I've done the at home bath, even did it while away at a tourney in the hotel room...desperation crept in on that one. But Since building my own oven, it's much easier, faster and effective baking it. With 4 members of my household now bowling, I had to do something. baking them at the proshop was getting expensive. I never tried the dish washer method, but even my pro-shop operator has recommended that as a good method.

[MICHAEL]

I've done the at home bath, even did it while away at a tourney in the hotel room...desperation crept in on that one. But Since building my own oven, it's much easier, faster and effective baking it. With 4 members of my household now bowling, I had to do something. baking them at the proshop was getting expensive. I never tried the dish washer method, but even my pro-shop operator has recommended that as a good method.

When you use the dishwashing method, do you use the (dishwashing soap?) I would think its pretty harsh, and might do damage to the balls compounds???

I know you want the heat off, or better put no drying cycle. Soap would be my question using the dishwasher?

[sprocket]

Bath. I've yet to be convinced that heating a ball up in an oven is a good idea. I believe it removes the oil but I wonder if it alters the chemical composition of the cover over time. What if frequent de-oiling by heating in an oven is actually one of the causes of premature ball death? I never have that concern with good old soap and water.

[MICHAEL]

I currently have a ball being baked. It has been baking for over a week and oil is still coming out. So while a hot bath may get the oil out I think it is gonna take way too long to just sit there and bath it over and over in order to get the same result as taking it to the proshop and baking it properly.

I may build one using the food dehydrator, that will hold two balls! I am just looking at all the options. BAKING A WEEK!!! Still coming out!! HOLY Oil BATMAN!!! What is the name of that ball "THE SPONGE"!! LOL

[MICHAEL]

I did use my convectin Oven for a Storm Ball, on the low setting,,, hummmm ,, hum!!! Nothing like the smell of a Storm scented ball baking in the oven,,,,, Apple crisp!

[Aslan]

Ice-

I've done both and I even had it done by a pro as well. I have to say, the bath method seems to work best, is easiest, is the fastest, and is safest.

I can get the bathtub water pretty hot (scolding) and just set a ball in there for 20-25 minutes and the oil that comes off is amazing! When I put it in a food dehydrator...oil comes off...but a minor amount.

The only issue I have with bathing is I don't like to completely submerge the ball because I'm worried it'll mess up the finger inserts. So I set the ball on a pail/bowl and leave the finger holes above the water level. So that means the small area near the finger holes doesn't get de-oiled.

[MICHAEL]

I would think a guy that comes up with the material that composes the outer core of the bowling ball would give us his, or her thoughts on the BEST and SAFEST, way to extract oil!

Don't they ever come to the number ONE bowing site?

Strom,,,, what do your surface creators say!!! Brunswick, your thoughts!

We all know ways to do it, but are some better then others in regards to longevity of ball?

[Geneo2u]

Hey Ice,
Go ahead and put one of your balls in the sink, then give it to me to bake in the rejuvenator. Just to see if i can get more oil out...

[tccstudent]

I may build one using the food dehydrator, that will hold two balls! I am just looking at all the options. BAKING A WEEK!!! Still coming out!! HOLY Oil BATMAN!!! What is the name of that ball "THE SPONGE"!! LOL

Reign of Fire I have had this ball for years and it has been thrown many many many many many many many many games.

[Ptnomore]

Hey Ice,
Go ahead and put one of your balls in the sink, then give it to me to bake in the rejuvenator. Just to see if i can get more oil out...

That's exactly what I did (using a home built rejuvinator and using a remote thermometer alarm to monitor the temp). And the home built worked much better. Much easier to maintain the ball temp to approx 130-135 degrees (key to getting oil out) and not any higher, lower is useless. Couldn't get the water hot enough with out boiling it on the stove...don't have a propane turkey fryer, but I bet that would work. Water cools quickly below effective temp requiring frequent emptying, refilling, wiping off the ball, etc.

In my rejuvinator, I set the alarm at 30 minutes/140 degrees. Every 30 minutes, I take the ball out, wipe it off with ball cleaner and put it back in. Repeat until it doesn't bleed anymore. The 140 degree alarm is just to make sure I don't over heat the ball...air temp rises before the ball, so if the air reaches 140 degrees, alarm goes off and I can get it opened up before any damage is done to the ball. IN mine, the heat is not directed on the ball from the heating element, it's drawn through the area from numerous directions at once, fairly equally.

I haven't done the dishwasher method, but I'd probably try it without detergent 1st. Dishwasher soap has detergents as well as anti-foaming agents in it that are questionable as to whether or not they will affect the coverstock. If anything, I'd be lead to a minimal amount of Dawn being used.

[Ptnomore]

As for what Brunswick recommends, here is what I found right here on Bowlingball.com ...
"...
4. If your ball has more than 50 games on it, you may be able to increase mid-lane and backend hooking action by removing oil from the coverstock. Remove the oil from the ball by cleaning it with cleaner or rejuvenating substance or visit your pro shop to have it warmed in a "rejuvenator" or "revivor" type device. * Brunswick testing has shown by combining the restoration of the factory finish, and the resurfacing of the track and oil removal, your Brunswick ball can maintain its original “out of the box” reaction for hundreds of games. CAUTION: Do not use a home oven to remove oil. Temperatures cannot be adequately controlled and the ball may crack.

5. Absorbent materials sold by other bowling ball manufacturers to remove oil can also be used on Brunswick bowling balls. Information to date indicates that absorbent materials have a more limited ability to remove oil than warming. You may be disappointed with results on heavily oil-soaked balls.

Note: Oil-soaked balls tend to track less in the oil and respond less to the dry boards on the lane. If you are matching-up using an oil-soaked ball on wet/dry or broken down lane conditions, removing the oil from the ball will significantly change your match-up and possibly create undesirable over reactions.


All recommended ball surface maintenance procedures require some modification developed either by your pro shop operator or through your own experimentation so you produce the most desired ball motion possible after you complete a given maintenance procedure. It is a belief that ball screening procedures recommended by other manufacturers may also work effectively on Brunswick bowling balls but it does help to discuss your surface options with your pro shop professional before engaging new screening processes."

Hundreds of games? That's not many. Regardless, They aren't too picky other than not recommending you sticking them in the wifes oven. 130-135 degrees is what the professional machines at the proshops use, so that's what I use in mine. Very easy to do, and very easy to control.

[sprocket]

I don't want to get all the oil out of my ball. I want my ball to get "seasoned" and then stay in almost exactly the same state of oil saturation for years. It is my belief that a certain amount of oil in the ball is not a bad thing. I just always want it to be the same amount of oil and I want it to be easy to maintain it at that state without risking damaging to the cover. NO, bathing the ball does not get all the oil out but it gets the SAME amount of oil out every time, or should I say it leaves the same amount of oil IN the ball every time. The ball may not hook like new but only a brand new ball hooks like new anyway. Trying to maintain a like new reaction is a losing battle. I don't fight that battle. I just want the ball to hook the same as it did last week. I want it to hook the same as it did once it first got "seasoned".

What makes you bakers think the only thing you are removing is lane oil? Isn't the resin in the ball petroleum based? And what holds the structure together? I mean, I'm no chemist and my terminology is probably all wrong but I have common sense. Something bonds things together. Isn't it "plasticizers" or what-not? How do you know you aren't baking that stuff out? Why did two of my balls die FROM baking?

[tccstudent]

I used to be a lead man in a plastic plant. The typical heats that would be set would be over 350 so if you are staying under 140 there should be no damage done with these tempetures Hell the inside of a vehicle gets hotter then that in August around here.

[Ptnomore]

If ALL ball manufacturers recommend removing oil using a heated method, why wouldn't you? Yea, I know, they are in business to sell bowling balls, blah blah. Everything is a conspiracy. But if they recommend that method, I'd think that they are in jeopardy of getting alot of balls returned on warranty if it was a danger to the ball.

I don't know what method you used when you baked your ball, but if you put it in your home oven, it got hotter than the recommended 130-135 degrees. Certainly higher than 145-150 degrees, your ball will die. If you used a thermometer, where was it in relationship to the top/bottom of the ball vs the heating element top/bottom, both)? Might make a difference, might not. I would think it would.

Even Brunswick mentioned the differences experienced, before/after de-oiling, resurfacing, etc and that a maintenance schedule is to be modified based on your own personal desired ball motion. Sounds like you found what works for you.

But I can't get too excited about my ball, or any one else's for that matter, getting replaced after 2-3 years when most manufacturers are only recommending certain maintenance techniques to get the ball to perform for up to 200-300 games anyway. Knowing that that is all that is expected, I like to work to keep the ball working as hard as it did on day one, until it can't work any more, without shortening it's life any further. For me, it was a night/day difference, that quick. Tuesday it worked, Friday it didn't. De-oiled, resurfaced, still no worky. Got 3 years, 6-1/2 30+ week seasons and three 9+ game tourney's out of it. I'm not complaining. I don't think my maintenance schedule/methods did anything to shorten it's life. But until I see some strong scientific research/proofing to the contrary, it's just an opinion based on my own experience.

[swingset]

I don't want to get all the oil out of my ball. I want my ball to get "seasoned" and then stay in almost exactly the same state of oil saturation for years. It is my belief that a certain amount of oil in the ball is not a bad thing. I just always want it to be the same amount of oil and I want it to be easy to maintain it at that state without risking damaging to the cover. NO, bathing the ball does not get all the oil out but it gets the SAME amount of oil out every time, or should I say it leaves the same amount of oil IN the ball every time. The ball may not hook like new but only a brand new ball hooks like new anyway. Trying to maintain a like new reaction is a losing battle. I don't fight that battle. I just want the ball to hook the same as it did last week. I want it to hook the same as it did once it first got "seasoned".

What makes you bakers think the only thing you are removing is lane oil? Isn't the resin in the ball petroleum based? And what holds the structure together? I mean, I'm no chemist and my terminology is probably all wrong but I have common sense. Something bonds things together. Isn't it "plasticizers" or what-not? How do you know you aren't baking that stuff out? Why did two of my balls die FROM baking?

If 140 degrees of radiant air will break down the resin (it won't, btw), what do you think the heat from hot water will do any different?

To the molecules in that resin, heat is heat. The only difference between the two methods is the force of the water acting against the oil to leach it (which slows it down somewhat, but does not prevent the ball from seeping oil). All things being equal, you should bathe a ball a bit longer to get the same amount of oil out.

If you had a ball die from baking, you had too much heat....or woefully inadequate heat and thus the oil was never purged and the balls never got their life back.

I've baked a dozen balls and some multiple times, I've never had anything but great results by doing so. How is that possible if it kills balls?

[bowl1820]

PROLONGING LIFE AND BRINGING BACK
REACTION ON REACTIVE & PARTICLE
COVERSTOCK BALLS
by John Prokopec, Product Manager
and Bill Wasserberger, Director of Consumer Products R&D
Brunswick has tested and documented changes in ball reaction
with use and has come to the following conclusions and
recommendations that match up well with the conventional
wisdom circulating in the bowling community.
Our results to date include:
• Both particle and reactive coverstock balls lose some hooking
action with use.
• This effect occurs faster with high-load particle coverstocks
than reactive coverstocks.
• The primary reason for the change in ball reaction is the
absorption of oil into the coverstock.
• Brunswick’s PowrKoil™, N’Control, Activator® and Octane™
coverstock balls can be rejuvenated, to a “like new” condition
by using the oil removal warming devices found in some pro
shops.
Recommendations
• Revive high-load particle balls every 30-50 games.
• Revive reactive coverstock balls every 60-80 games.
• Brunswick anticipates that low-load particle balls will behave
similar to reactive coverstock balls, but our testing to date
hasn’t included low-load particle coverstocks.
Since Brunswick has identified oil absorption as the primary
cause of reduced ball reaction with use, it makes sense to use
techniques that reduce oil absorption.
• Wipe oil from the surface of the ball between shots.
• Use a ball cleaner to remove oil from the surface of the ball
after bowling.
Why the change in ball reaction?
The absorption of oil changes the physical properties of the
coverstock. When new, your Brunswick ball has a coverstock
free from oil contamination. With use, the coverstock becomes
‘coverstock + oil’. This new, oil- soaked coverstock has
diminished ability to traction through oil and create friction with
the lane, and diminished ability to respond aggressively to the
dry boards on the lane. Using the warming process to remove
the oil from the coverstock returns your Brunswick ball to its
original condition.
Test Setup
We created three pairs of bowling balls for our test:
• Two, shiny Raging Red Fuze® reactive coverstock balls
• Two, 320-grit dull Raging Red Fuze reactive coverstock balls
• Two, 320-grit dull Fuze Detonator high-load particle
coverstock balls
Each pair of bowling balls was tested and identical ball reaction
was confirmed for both balls in each of the three 2-ball pairs.
One ball from each pair was put aside as a control ball, the other
was the test ball. We then started accumulating games on the
test balls, 1-2 hours a day, 3-4 days a week.
We checked the test balls against the control balls every 30
games on 38 foot and 50 foot, smoothly blended 3/1 oil patterns
laid down on both synthetic and wood lanes.
30 games – No change, both reactive and high-load particle test
and control ball reacted identically.
60 games – Little or no change in the reactive coverstock balls.
The high-load particle coverstock balls showed slightly reduced
hooking action both in the mid-lane and on the back-ends
requiring a 1 and 0, or a 2 and 1 move to the outside to be lined
up to strike compared to the control ball.
90 games– Both the reactive and high-load particle
coverstocks showed reduced hooking action in the mid-lane and
on the back-ends requiring a 2 and 1, or a 3 and 1 move to the
outside to be lined up to strike compared to the control ball.
At this point in the test, we documented reduced ball
reaction with all the test balls. Our next step was to use the
available techniques that offered some hope of restoring the test
balls back to their original reaction characteristics.
Clean with a ball cleaner:
No change in the reaction of the test
balls compared to the control balls.
Light resurfacing:
1-2 minutes with sand paper and a ball
spinner. Surface finish was returned to beginning of test
condition. No change in the reaction of the test balls compared
to the control balls.
Machine resurfacing:
Test balls were resurfaced with a Haas
machine (25 minutes with diamond cutters): Surface finish
was returned to beginning of test condition. The first 3-5 shots
looked promising, but once a little oil was worked into the
surface there was no change in the reaction of the test balls
compared to the control balls.
Pro Shop oil removal oven:
Test balls were warmed in the
Revivor oil removal oven. Oil was wiped from the surface of the
ball every 10-15 minutes using ball cleaner and paper towels. Six
cycles of oil removal were required before the test balls stopped
sweating out oil. After this procedure, the reaction of the test balls was identical to the
reaction of the control balls.
Non Issue:
Brunswick’s oven-testing has included brand new, unused
bowling balls from all four of Brunswick’s major coverstock
families including PowrKoil, N’Control, Activator® and Octane™.
In each case we have not seen any evidence of the ‘bleeding
reactive resin out of the coverstock’ issue that occasionally
appears on internet message boards and post-competition
problem solving sessions.
The removal of oil from the test balls’ coverstock was by far
the most effective method for reviving the reaction of the
test balls, and in fact completely restored the test ball reaction
to their original ‘like new’ hooking action. At this point in the
test we put the control balls away and started accumulating
additional games on the test balls. The test balls were checked
against the control balls at 30 & 60 & 90 games with results
similar to the first cycle.
At 90 games since the first revival, 180 games total, we
made our second attempt to bring back the reaction of the
test balls. With our second attempt we went directly to the oil
removal process, warming the test balls using the oil removal
oven. The results were the same. The reaction of the test balls
was completely revived to a “like new” ball reaction.
Warming & Durability:
Caution – Do not warm the ball over 150°F
Brunswick also conducted a separate test on the effects of
warming and coverstock durability. This test involved creating
unwarmed control balls and warmed test balls, all with zero
games, which were tested in Brunswick’s durability testing lab.
These tests showed no differences in coverstock durability
(resistance to cracking) between the test balls warmed five times
and the control balls never warmed.
Summary
After 270 games and three warmings, our test balls react
identically to the control balls that have less than 10 games on
them. The oil removal warming process revives the ball
reaction of oil soaked bowling balls with no durability problems.
The Innovative Revivor Oil Extraction Unit is recommended
for this procedure. Brunswick has no opinion on other methods at this time.
Readers should be aware that Brunswick’s results are not
necessarily applicable to the coverstocks from other companies
and differences in opinion between bowling ball manufacturers
may simply be due to the use of different coverstock materials.
In reading and absorbing the information published on this
subject, Brunswick encourages readers not to try to decide which
company has the correct answers, but accept the advice given by
each company as the best advice for their products.

[MICHAEL]

Reign of Fire I have had this ball for years and it has been thrown many many many many many many many many games.

I think if you would have held a match next to it, you might have had a candle-ball!! LOL

[MICHAEL]

thanks 1820,,, that pretty much says it all! Sounds like de-oiling works! Working with the surface of an oil soaked ball, NOTHING!

I guess I will be building a two ball oven! It seems heat, as long as its not too hot, over 140, is a good thing, and does rejuvenate a ball to near new movement down the lane. Its good to hear from the manufacture their scientific expert advise!

[Stormed1]

Years ago at a seminar Ron Kickland of Ebonite told us not to use dishwashing soap (ie. Dawn) as it affects the coverstock. Just use hot water

[Aslan]

Years ago at a seminar Ron Kickland of Ebonite told us not to use dishwashing soap (ie. Dawn) as it affects the coverstock. Just use hot water

Well...thats just great. Ughhh. So is my ball going to explode now? Crack in half? What?

Stupid chemisty.

[Pauley]

Ordered a nesco dehydrator today and extra traysto make my own oven. I think I will keep the extracted oil to use as cologne, I wonder if my wife will like it...

[Bunny]

Ordered a nesco dehydrator today and extra traysto make my own oven. I think I will keep the extracted oil to use as cologne, I wonder if my wife will like it...

Lol!

My husband I thought a lane oil scented cologne would be funny.

[sprocket]

OK, so maybe I'm wrong and baking is OK but it has to be done right. I just don't think you can do a bucket of hot water wrong, but I have read a bunch of times about someone over baking their ball and ruining it. One guy said he kept heating it over and over because oil kept coming out. He thought the temp was low enough too. Eventually he started noticing the ball color on the towel when he was wiping it dry and realized it was more than oil coming out.

I guess it does make sense though. If you can bake a ball right and keep the temp even (water is always even) all over the ball it should work just as good or better than water of the same temp. Water is pretty much free though...

I've had a ball spinning at 1000 rpm and then blasted it with a hair dryer until it was wet with oil and then sprayed it with degreaser and let the centrifugal force throw the oil off. I stopped using that method because I didn't know how hot I was actually getting the ball. The spinning should have kept it pretty even though.

[MICHAEL]

Ordered a nesco dehydrator today and extra traysto make my own oven. I think I will keep the extracted oil to use as cologne, I wonder if my wife will like it...

LOL,,, I think I will use the oil from my 14 balls, to run my Dodge diesel! Hey if people can run their diesel vehicles off of left over cooking oil,,,, Like Willie Nelson,,,,, how much better might it be to use lane oil!!

[tccstudent]

I just don't think you can do a bucket of hot water wrong,
Water is pretty much free though...


This is the first time I have ever baked a ball and it has been going for over a week. It is being done properly at the pro shop. I was told by Phil the guy running the pro shop that he has seen balls take a month to get all the oil out. With that being said submerging it in water around the 140 degree mark will work but how are you going to keep the water at that temp are you just going to keep repeating that procedure.
My water bill would disagree with you over being pretty much free.

[Cart3r27]

I never bake my ball at home unless I use the Rejuvenater at work. I usually submerge my bowling balls once or twice a month and I can notice a difference immediately. The problem with baking at home is that most people don't know the temperature to put it at. I forgot the correct temp. but after a certain temp the weight block expands and can ultimately damage the ball. I have been in so many arguments about this and that, but I mostly don't ever open my mouth any more and let people learn the hard way. Not saying your ball will be damaged but if you think on the science aspect heat makes materials expand and the weight block expands inside the ball pushing outwards and could crack. Just my 2 cents. I say hot bath is best, a bucket filled half way with hot water from basement sink and 15 mins later good to go!

[sprocket]

This is the first time I have ever baked a ball and it has been going for over a week. It is being done properly at the pro shop. I was told by Phil the guy running the pro shop that he has seen balls take a month to get all the oil out. With that being said submerging it in water around the 140 degree mark will work but how are you going to keep the water at that temp are you just going to keep repeating that procedure.
My water bill would disagree with you over being pretty much free.

To repeat what I said in my first post, I have no desire or need to spend a week or a month removing oil. I only want the ball to do what it did LAST WEEK. I don't care if it does what it did when it was new. I just want enough oil out to get a predictable reaction.

[dnhoffman]

it has been going for over a week.


It is being done properly at the pro shop.

One of these two statements may be true, one is definitely not.

[dnhoffman]

And just in case anyone wants to see how to make the DIY option that's virtually the same thing as Nuball and the new innovative personal oven, see here:
http://www.bowlingboards.com/threads/15710-DIY-Personal-Bowling-Ball-Oven

[tccstudent]

One of these two statements may be true, one is definitely not.


Pro Shop oil removal oven:
Test balls were warmed in the Revivor oil removal oven. Oil was wiped from the surface of the ball every 10-15 minutes using ball cleaner and paper towels. Six cycles of oil removal were required before the test balls stopped sweating out oil. After this procedure, the reaction of the test balls was identical to the reaction of the control balls.

These test balls had 90 games and took 6 cycles. How many cycles would it take for a ball with well over 1000 games take.

[Ptnomore]

Pro Shop oil removal oven:
Test balls were warmed in the Revivor oil removal oven. Oil was wiped from the surface of the ball every 10-15 minutes using ball cleaner and paper towels. Six cycles of oil removal were required before the test balls stopped sweating out oil. After this procedure, the reaction of the test balls was identical to the reaction of the control balls.

These test balls had 90 games and took 6 cycles. How many cycles would it take for a ball with well over 1000 games take.

It'll be about the same as those test balls. The amount of oil that the balls can absorb is not unlimited. They reach a limit and it's at that point that the balls stop reacting and moving. Yours reached that limit a long time ago.

I leave mine in for longer that 15 minutes though, but not longer than 30. Just my method. No reason for it. I know other guys, pro-shop operator included that leave them in for an hour. Shorter time might keep the core from getting as hot as the coverstock. Dunno. Sounds good in theory. Might not matter one way or another. No idea on that one.

[MICHAEL]

I just bought: 'Nesco FD-60 Snackmaster Express 4-Tray Foo...

www.amazon.com


Nesco/American Harvest - "The Best Food Dehydrators in the World" FD-60 Snackmaster Express Food Dehydrator!

I also ordered the 2 extra sets of two rings! Can't wait to bake them there balls! I gather from reading all the threads it will give the balls new life!! The whole thing cost me a little over 80.00 bucks!

Will let you know my observations as to the workings of this Food dehydrator in regards oil extraction! Great savings compared to other devisees.

[GoodGravy]

Just my 2 cents:

Went out a couple of weeks ago and got a good food dehydrator. Got the extra rings, cut out the middles and threw a ball in there. All I can say is WOW. If you want a cheap way to keep you ball 'like new', go get yourself one of those dehydrators and your good to go...just make sure that it uses the fan/hot air convection and not an exposed heating element.

And yes, I spent the better part of a year trying to use hot water...not even close to how well my home made ball oven works

[Perrin]

I've posted about it a few times on here.

I use the dishwasher method. Light wash cycle with heated dry and sanitize options turned off.

~45 minutes and works amazing..... actually too good (have to throw a few practice games to get a little oil back in the cover before it's back to 'normal')

I do this every 3-4 months no soap or anthing like that placed in the dischwasher with the grip center down so that the water can drain from the fingers/thumb


I have tried the tub method, bucket method, and oven methods and don't like any of them. I have found teh dishwasher to be both more effective and easier.

the dehydrator method looks pretty good but sounds like you have to keep a pretty close eye on it and do manual ball cleanup every 15 minutes or so..

[MICHAEL]

Oven be here Wednesdays, and the extra set of two rings, Thursday!! under 90.00 bucks including shipping fee, through Amazon.com Thanks for all the tips, and information!!

[tccstudent]

Well I picked up my ball that has been baking, and I threw a practice game with it. The results didnt seem to good to me. I expected it to bring some of the hook back and that just didnt happen. I guess that ball is just destined to be a spare ball now or for when the lanes are totally burnt.

[MICHAEL]

Well I picked up my ball that has been baking, and I threw a practice game with it. The results didnt seem to good to me. I expected it to bring some of the hook back and that just didnt happen. I guess that ball is just destined to be a spare ball now or for when the lanes are totally burnt.

ICEMAN hates SNOW,,, even Hates Snow men!!! Like Ice cycles!!!


WHAT???? After I ordered the ,,,,THE,,, It's suppose to be here today if the snow doesn't stall its delivery! Dishwasher works better??? What is an Iceman to do!!

When you had your practice game were YOU FOLLOWING THOUGH with your delivery???? Most have remarkable results that have baked?

O well after I get my dehydrator I will bake one of my balls that I know is dripping with oil, and give my observations! It will be an Alien Ball that I purchased 2 years ago, that lost its snap? I think its the Red Alien ball if I remember correctly!

This will be fun to test! I might give another ball I have that goes back to about that same time period to see how the dish washer works in comparison!!

[MICHAEL]

Hello,

We're writing about the order you placed on February 01, 2014
We wanted to let you know that your package may not arrive on time due to extreme weather conditions or an unforeseen natural event. Shipping carriers in the area of your delivery address--or cities along the delivery route--are reporting delivery delays because of these conditions. UPS will deliver the package as soon as possible. We are sorry about this unavoidable delay and we appreciate your patience.



"Nesco FD-60 Snackmaster Express 4-Tray Food Dehydrator"

(Well snowed in, and I don't have my Dehydrator to play with!!!)) Lots of snow at my place, close to 12 inches, plus some high drifts!)

[tccstudent]

When you had your practice game were YOU FOLLOWING THOUGH with your delivery???? Most have remarkable results that have baked?
!
I dont have a problem with not following through I fixed that long long time ago
There was a little bit of carry down on the lanes I was on and the lanes felt a little slick.
My normal throw was looking like all the energy was burned up right before it hit. Maybe the lanes were just to slick for this ball. Now I was getting some movement probably about the same amount of movement as I was getting before I dropped the ball off. I was expecting to get something with a much stronger snap on the back end once I got it back.

[MICHAEL]

I dont have a problem with not following through I fixed that long long time ago
There was a little bit of carry down on the lanes I was on and the lanes felt a little slick.
My normal throw was looking like all the energy was burned up right before it hit. Maybe the lanes were just to slick for this ball. Now I was getting some movement probably about the same amount of movement as I was getting before I dropped the ball off. I was expecting to get something with a much stronger snap on the back end once I got it back.

The surface?? I know you got the oil baked out, but what about resurface, and what grit? I know from my experience, playing with different surface grits,,, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, can make a HUGE difference!

You know that last 300 a few months ago, I actually posted me giving my Virtual Gravity nano a bath! I also used a 180 grit on the ball four sides before putting it in the hot water, with Dawn Soap!

I then took it up to 500, 2000 and then put reacta shine on the ball..... WORKED FOR ME LOL>>>> 300game a week later!

That ball was dead before the bath and resurface!!

[tccstudent]

We resurfaced it back to its original oob finish which is 1000. At 1000 it should grab pretty good. Maybe the ball is just dead I have had this ball since in came out in 4 years ago. It has been my #1 go to ball during all that time. Right now I think my ball that I won (Reign On) is the best ball that I have for the 3 houses I have used it in I have been over 600 in the last three appearances.

[MICHAEL]

MY dehydrator came today!!! NOW to make it bowling ball compatible! Need to cut about 10,000 plastic do-dads off to open up the center for the ball! Then 10,000 more when the 2 extra sets of double rings arrive tomorrow!

Will my Red Alien come back to life???? That was one heck of a ball before it became saturated dripping wet with lane oil. It will be my experimental first ball!

Can't wait to see how much oil comes out!

[vdubtx]

MY dehydrator came today!!! NOW to make it bowling ball compatible! Need to cut about 10,000 plastic do-dads off to open up the center for the ball! Then 10,000 more when the 2 extra sets of double rings arrive tomorrow!

Will my Red Alien come back to life???? That was one heck of a ball before it became saturated dripping wet with lane oil. It will be my experimental first ball!

Can't wait to see how much oil comes out!

Let us know how much time is spent cutting all of the rings and any tips you come with along the way. I am seriously considering doing the same thing soon.

[larry mc]

i use the hot water method , put the ball in a bucket and let the shower run hot water on it slowly for an hour , works great

[GoodGravy]

Just my experience in prepping my dehydrator: Took me about 45 minutes to an hour to cut out all the center pieces of plastic. I could not find my dremmel, or I could have been done in about 5 minutes....

Mine came with a silicone 'drip pan' for the bottom and I just left it in there to catch all the oil. Also, the center ring of the trays that you cut out can be used as Ball Stands!

As a final item--- I have a fairly high end food thermometer that I use as a back up since I don't really trust the temperature gauge on the dehydrator. I just set the alarm at 130 and walk away....so far the dehydrator has kept really constant temp and I have not had to fool around with it once since I got it set.

[MICHAEL]

Just my experience in prepping my dehydrator: Took me about 45 minutes to an hour to cut out all the center pieces of plastic. I could not find my dremmel, or I could have been done in about 5 minutes....

Mine came with a silicone 'drip pan' for the bottom and I just left it in there to catch all the oil. Also, the center ring of the trays that you cut out can be used as Ball Stands!

As a final item--- I have a fairly high end food thermometer that I use as a back up since I don't really trust the temperature gauge on the dehydrator. I just set the alarm at 130 and walk away....so far the dehydrator has kept really constant temp and I have not had to fool around with it once since I got it set.

GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE!! LOL I used my dremmel myself, only took about 15 minutes, plus it did a great job!
Also The ring in the middle does make a nice ball holder, came up with that idea before reading your thoughts.. LOL

I do need to get a temp gauge, and maybe an automatic timer, that you plug into, that can be set for what ever time you want, then it turns off automatically!

This has been one great piece of information that has saved Iceman $$$$$$$ ! Thanks !

Now I can sweat the oil out of my ball, while making beef jerky at the same time!!! Iceman isn't no JERK!! (:)

[Mudpuppy]

GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE!! LOL I used my dremmel myself, only took about 15 minutes, plus it did a great job!
Also The ring in the middle does make a nice ball holder, came up with that idea before reading your thoughts.. LOL

I do need to get a temp gauge, and maybe an automatic timer, that you plug into, that can be set for what ever time you want, then it turns off automatically!

This has been one great piece of information that has saved Iceman $$$$$$$ ! Thanks !

Now I can sweat the oil out of my ball, while making beef jerky at the same time!!! Iceman isn't no JERK!! (:)

This is what you need Iceman: http://idevicesinc.com/igrill/igrillmini.php

They have an older version for Android as well that is about $80 (on Amazon). The Android version of the new one is coming out sometime soon (I hope because I am waiting - will use this to grill and make beer, etc.).

But this device you could monitor from anywhere in the house right on your phone.

[MICHAEL]

This is what you need Iceman: http://idevicesinc.com/igrill/igrillmini.php

They have an older version for Android as well that is about $80 (on Amazon). The Android version of the new one is coming out sometime soon (I hope because I am waiting - will use this to grill and make beer, etc.).

But this device you could monitor from anywhere in the house right on your phone.

Looks interesting, but it looks like its designed to go on the out side of a heating devise. It states that its magnetic!

So I wonder if it could be put inside the cooker.... I didn't read all the info,,, will go back and see JUST HOW IT WORKS... thanks mudpuppy!

[vdubtx]

When the rings are stacked, are they interlocked somehow?

That iGrillmini looks pretty cool. ICEMAN, the unit has a temp probe with a wire attached that is intended to be put inside the meat inside the grill with the wire routing to the outside to the unit. I have a $5 probe thermometer that will do the same thing, if you don't need anything that fancy.

[Mudpuppy]

Looks interesting, but it looks like its designed to go on the out side of a heating devise. It states that its magnetic!

So I wonder if it could be put inside the cooker.... I didn't read all the info,,, will go back and see JUST HOW IT WORKS... thanks mudpuppy!

It's magnetic to stick the unit to the grill - optional. You don't need the magnet. And for $39.99 I would consider it a basement bargain for that much technology. I wish they would hurry up and come out with the android version. Yes it is pretty fancy indeed. But in a good way. Not useless fancy but lots of good usefulness in the technology.

[Pauley]

That thermometer is way cool! I may have to get two. One for grilling, one for deoiling.

[MICHAEL]

One thing I did to keep the rings togerther, (they can be a pain in the ask!!) I put it together then glued it up and down on three sides with a dab of super glue! Seems to be working.

I am baking my IQ pearl the ball that gave me my first 300! It was one heck of a ball then it just seemed to die. I now think it was the oil!!! It will be interesting to see how much comes out

I used two furniture clamps and a 2 x 6 to hold them together tight while gluing them!

[MICHAEL]

Got it all glued set up, glued together, put my IQ pearl in after sanding 4 sides temperature, right at 140-135! NOTHING!!
Put my 2 year old Red Alien in 30 minutes,,, NOTHING!

Put my marauder madness in 30 minutes,,, NOTHING!

Damn,,, Iceman must do a great job of wiping his balls, and cleaning them after use!

NOT A DAMN DROP,,, Bone dry!!

What's a guy have to do to get some fluid out of his balls???

two things,,, I did sand four sides with 500 pad,,, Did check the temperature with a gauge,,, it was right on the money!
I could smell the oil,,,, but noting to wipe off, on the bottom of the cooker!

[Mudpuppy]

Got it all glued set up, glued together, put my IQ pearl in after sanding 4 sides temperature, right at 140-135! NOTHING!!
Put my 2 year old Red Alien in 30 minutes,,, NOTHING!

Put my marauder madness in 30 minutes,,, NOTHING!

Damn,,, Iceman must do a great job of wiping his balls, and cleaning them after use!

NOT A DAMN DROP,,, Bone dry!!

What's a guy have to do to get some fluid out of his balls???

two things,,, I did sand four sides with 500 pad,,, Did check the temperature with a gauge,,, it was right on the money!
I could smell the oil,,,, but noting to wipe off, on the bottom of the cooker!

Sometimes fluids are a little stagnant in old balls - just saying.

[MICHAEL]

Sometimes fluids are a little stagnant in old balls - just saying.

LOL,,,, They are less then a year old, I know,,, hard to believe, but true!!

I had them transplanted from the Pro Shop to me not that long ago,,, maybe 8 months....:) James did a remarkable job of preparing them! I feel the oil will come gushing out as they get more use!

I have so many balls, that maybe the problem is they actually don't have any oil in them? I will try one of my oldest ones today, the Titanium! Maybe oil will gush out of it...

[Ptnomore]

Got it all glued set up, glued together, put my IQ pearl in after sanding 4 sides temperature, right at 140-135! NOTHING!!


two things,,, I did sand four sides with 500 pad,,, Did check the temperature with a gauge,,, it was right on the money!
I could smell the oil,,,, but noting to wipe off, on the bottom of the cooker!


How much time passed before you checked them? I don't even bother lifting the lid before 30 minutes has passed. If you soaked them longer than that, and there wasn't much oil in them to begin with, is it possible you cooked it off? That's not good either.

Second thing, the balls may be a year old, but how many games on oily conditions and actually in the oil, were they?

The only ball's that I get oil out of are my heavy or med-heavy oil balls, like the Wicked Siege and Taboo Jet black, and my wife's Cyclone, but she's a straight roller, right down the middle of the lane in the heaviest of oil every time. The other balls don't come out o fthe bag till the oil is all but gone, so they aren't going to soak up as much, because there isn't much to soak up.

[dnhoffman]

Pearls don't absorb much oil.

[MICHAEL]

Pearls don't absorb much oil.


Hummmm,,, do polished balls absorb less? Reason I ask, I know that CAR WAX with is different then Polish, (Water beads up beautifully after an application of WAX). Does Polish repel lane conditioner/oil ???

I guess you can have a pearl ball without polish, but off hand I can't think of any! I wounder how a peal ball like say the IQ Pearl would react without polish? I assume it would burn up, and lose its snap at the end.... humm

[bowl1820]

Polished, smooth balls do tend to absorb less oil. They don't pick it up like a rougher surface does.

[Mike White]

Polished, smooth balls do tend to absorb less oil. They don't pick it up like a rougher surface does.

Don't be too sure about that.

While examining many bowlers track flare, to identify their pap, I'd say the only reason a polished ball would pick up less oil is because they tend to be used in an area of the lane that has less oil on it to begin with.

I have them throw the ball more in the middle of the lane so it will make the track flare much more visible,.

The real issue with oil absorption is that the oil is sitting on your ball between turns and gets absorbed.

This is why I prefer to wipe my ball clean after the shot then go wait for my next turn, rather than wait until just before my next shot to wipe the ball.

[bowl1820]

Polished, smooth balls do tend to absorb less oil. They don't pick it up like a rougher surface does.

Additional info from a similar post:
Polished balls can absorb the same amount, but at a slightly slower rate.

also:
some polishes fill up pores in the cover, rough surfaces have more (sometimes much more) surface area for absorption than smooth, and the surface tension of liquids on highly curved surfaces is higher, forcing the oil into the pores faster. Bit like paper towel vs writing paper or even cardboard. They will still remove oil from the lane pretty fast though, especially high flaring balls - difference is you will actually get to wipe off some of the oil they pick up.

[Mudpuppy]

Additional info from a similar post:
Polished balls can absorb the same amount, but at a slightly slower rate.

also:
some polishes fill up pores in the cover, rough surfaces have more (sometimes much more) surface area for absorption than smooth, and the surface tension of liquids on highly curved surfaces is higher, forcing the oil into the pores faster. Bit like paper towel vs writing paper or even cardboard. They will still remove oil from the lane pretty fast though, especially high flaring balls - difference is you will actually get to wipe off some of the oil they pick up.

150% correct from my observations. I used to throw a dull ball first game through 2-5 frame of second game to soak up the oil and then throw the polished ball for the remainder of the series. The dull ball soaked up a ton of oil - it is a lot more porous so it is exactly as Mr. 1820 is saying. Like the difference between raw sheet metal vs primed sheet metal vs finished paint & clear coated sheet metal on a car. What one do you think will rust faster?

[Tinyfxds]

I do know that whatever way you decide to wash your bowling balls. 140 degrees is the absolute max temperature you should use. Anything higher than that, you risk having the plasticizers come out of the ball and physically altering the composition of that ball. Our pro shop professional recommends 1-1.5hr at 135 degrees.

[MICHAEL]

I do know that whatever way you decide to wash your bowling balls. 140 degrees is the absolute max temperature you should use. Anything higher than that, you risk having the plasticizers come out of the ball and physically altering the composition of that ball. Our pro shop professional recommends 1-1.5hr at 135 degrees.


Having been an Iron Worker for 30 years, I know a lot about heat, and what it can do to various metals... If you use a wire machine to weld steel, and have the voltage up too high, it can crystalize the weld! Makes sense that bowling balls would also have a max temp! thanks tinyfxds!

[dnhoffman]

Don't be too sure about that.

While examining many bowlers track flare, to identify their pap, I'd say the only reason a polished ball would pick up less oil is because they tend to be used in an area of the lane that has less oil on it to begin with.

I have them throw the ball more in the middle of the lane so it will make the track flare much more visible,.

The real issue with oil absorption is that the oil is sitting on your ball between turns and gets absorbed.

This is why I prefer to wipe my ball clean after the shot then go wait for my next turn, rather than wait until just before my next shot to wipe the ball.

I'd be very sure about it.

[MICHAEL]

All I know is by experience, and I have to say, when I put my balls on the spinner, turn it on, spray cleaning fluid on to the ball while its spinning with a white cotton hand towel up against it, I get a ton more residue from the solid, Matte balls, then I do the pearl polished balls. NOT EVEN CLOSE! Even when I play the same line. Nothing Scientific about my observation just something I noticed.

Same with my Wife's bowling balls. Her matte/solid balls put MUCH MORE oil on the rags. The Science of polish filling in the pours, makes perfect sense to me. I know when you polish a Covet fiberglass sports car. Polish makes the water bead up, much more then without!

[Mike White]

All I know is by experience, and I have to say, when I put my balls on the spinner, turn it on, spray cleaning fluid on to the ball while its spinning with a white cotton hand towel up against it, I get a ton more residue from the solid, Matte balls, then I do the pearl polished balls. NOT EVEN CLOSE! Even when I play the same line. Nothing Scientific about my observation just something I noticed.

Same with my Wife's bowling balls. Her matte/solid balls put MUCH MORE oil on the rags. The Science of polish filling in the pours, makes perfect sense to me. I know when you polish a Covet fiberglass sports car. Polish makes the water bead up, much more then without!

Which is why you don't use car polishes for your bowling ball. They have a different chemical makeup, and have different intended purposes.

Car polishes act more like a protectant, and have oil/silicon/wax based chemicals to repel water, and will potentially block the pores.

Bowling ball polishes act more like very fine sand paper, and a friction reducing agent. It doesn't (or at least shouldn't) block the pores.

[MICHAEL]

Which is why you don't use car polishes for your bowling ball. They have a different chemical makeup, and have different intended purposes.

Car polishes act more like a protectant, and have oil/silicon/wax based chemicals to repel water, and will potentially block the pores.

Bowling ball polishes act more like very fine sand paper, and a friction reducing agent. It doesn't (or at least shouldn't) block the pores.

if that's the case then what's the difference between a 4000 pad finish , and polish? I will look a little deeper, I am convinced that their is a (form of polish) of some kind in say, Reata shine.

could the (friction reducing agent be in reality a polish, not car polish, but polish just the same. When I use them vs high grit pads, the difference is night and day.

[Ptnomore]

A polish is nothing more than an uber-fine abrasive in a liquid suspension. Whether it be for cars, boats, or bowling balls. The ONLY thing a polish does, is provide shine...a slick mirror-like surface. The more you polish, the higher the gloss.

For protection (like for a car or boats finish) you should ALWAYS apply a wax or other protectant AFTER you polish. The wax is what will keep the water beading, and the shine for a long time. Sure, polishing will bead water. But not for long. Usually after a couple of hot days in the sun, the pores open back up again...unless there's a wax on it.

A polish can't be applied like a wax. It can't be built up...unless it's a 2-for-1, cleaner/wax or polish/wax, etc.

A good ball polish will not leave a residue on the ball, it will only change the surface. BUT, as an added measure, it is recommended that you throughly clean the ball after altering the surface by any means, including using a polish.

A Slip Agent, is a different story.

[MICHAEL]

A polish is nothing more than an uber-fine abrasive in a liquid suspension. Whether it be for cars, boats, or bowling balls. The ONLY thing a polish does, is provide shine...a slick mirror-like surface. The more you polish, the higher the gloss.

For protection (like for a car or boats finish) you should ALWAYS apply a wax or other protectant AFTER you polish. The wax is what will keep the water beading, and the shine for a long time. Sure, polishing will bead water. But not for long. Usually after a couple of hot days in the sun, the pores open back up again...unless there's a wax on it.

A polish can't be applied like a wax. It can't be built up...unless it's a 2-for-1, cleaner/wax or polish/wax, etc.

A good ball polish will not leave a residue on the ball, it will only change the surface. BUT, as an added measure, it is recommended that you throughly clean the ball after altering the surface by any means, including using a polish.

A Slip Agent, is a different story.

thanks for the great info!! Are you familiar with the ( Ming Finish for cars)? I had it done on a black car years ago.
It's not a wax at all, but a conditioning of the paint surface that would shine like new for 3 years.... water would bead up just like a waxed car. No wax after the surface treatment, but it did bead the water for over 3 years, and looked great! I have heard bad, and good about the surface treatment, but I was happy with my outcome.
http://mingautofinish.com/ming.php

I know a bowling ball would not work with the Ming Finish, other then maybe a plastic, but my point is that it does without WAX protect, and shine a car for years.

[Ptnomore]

thanks for the great info!! Are you familiar with the ( Ming Finish for cars)? I had it done on a black car years ago.
...
http://mingautofinish.com/ming.php

I know a bowling ball would not work with the Ming Finish, other then maybe a plastic, but my point is that it does without WAX protect, and shine a car for years.

I'd like to see what that paint looks like after the 3 years has gone by. 6 years?

It sounds like a clay bar and buffing treatment. The clay bar might help pull the dirt and crud out of the bowling balls, but the Ming Buffing/polishing would turn my 500 grit oil monster into a slicker than snot spare shooter.

I'd be very reluctant to use that Ming thing on any of my cars or motorcycles. With no protectant, it may shine, but the sun and acid rain has got to kill it much faster. Dunno...sounds like one of those "too good to be true" things.

[MICHAEL]

I'd like to see what that paint looks like after the 3 years has gone by. 6 years?

It sounds like a clay bar and buffing treatment. The clay bar might help pull the dirt and crud out of the bowling balls, but the Ming Buffing/polishing would turn my 500 grit oil monster into a slicker than snot spare shooter.

I'd be very reluctant to use that Ming thing on any of my cars or motorcycles. With no protectant, it may shine, but the sun and acid rain has got to kill it much faster. Dunno...sounds like one of those "too good to be true" things.

Its been around for a Long TIME!! Over 20 years,,, and still doing business,,, it explains the process if interested! Only reason I mentioned it was that it does bead up water, keeps its shine.... NO WAX involved :)

[vdubtx]

Mike, How has your bowling ball oven been working? Getting any use out of it? Just curious as I will likely make one soon.

[MICHAEL]

Mike, How has your bowling ball oven been working? Getting any use out of it? Just curious as I will likely make one soon.

Works Great, all for under $90.00! Great combination, the spinner, and oven! The guy that came up with this idea saved me a lot of $$$$$$$$ I ordered the stuff from Amazon, including the extra rings, I already had a tempature gage, but the dial has a pretty accurate dial!