Removing track marks? Ball dulling

[Vince805]

I was wondering is there a way to remove the track marks from the ball. I clean my balls after every league night with a 91% alcohol/simple green mix (50/50) this keeps my reaction pretty consistent and gets it pretty clean. But I've noticed my storm byte is now dull, and I just got the storm is tour fusion and I wanna keep it nice and clean and shiny and not change the out of box finish... Not a shiny length polish cleaner.. So overall the question is can I remove the track marks and shine the byte to the oob finish, and how to keep my iq fusion is best possible condition.... Thanks.

[SouthpawTRK]

I've tried a few different cleaners, but like the Storm Reacta Foam the most. It cleans up the ball very well and has no problems with belt marks. In my arsenal, I have a mixture of both polished and matte surfaces. The Reacta Foam keeps the polished bowling balls shiny and the matte bowling balls with a dull finish.

[Blacksox1]

I use and like tac up after every league night. It and reacta foam is available at bowlingball.com

Also every 30 games rolled on a ball, I take it to the pro shop to be restored to OOB. Not a resurface, but a touch up.

Resurface every 90-120 games rolled.

[RobLV1]

A polished ball will begin to dull regardless of how well it is cleaned after bowling. Storm recommends refreshing the surface of their balls with the final step in the finishing process after every 20 games. In the case of both the Byte and the Fusion, the final step is polishing with Storm Step Two polish. Your proshop should be able to do that for you fairly inexpensively.

[bowl1820]

I was wondering is there a way to remove the track marks from the ball. I clean my balls after every league night with a 91% alcohol/simple green mix (50/50) this keeps my reaction pretty consistent and gets it pretty clean. But I've noticed my storm byte is now dull, and I just got the storm is tour fusion and I wanna keep it nice and clean and shiny and not change the out of box finish... Not a shiny length polish cleaner.. So overall the question is can I remove the track marks and shine the byte to the oob finish, and how to keep my iq fusion is best possible condition.... Thanks.

Cleaning the ball surface with a non-abrasive cleaner (like the 50/50 mix) is fine for removing surface grime and oil.

Now since your balls are shiny a cleaner/polish (one without a slip agent) can be used to help maintain the shine. (Example: Storm Reacta-Shine)

But to remove the "Track Marks" (the area on the surface of the ball that has become worn from friction with the lane surface) you have to sand the ball and return it to the required surface.

Now the Storm Byte and the IQ Fusion both have the same OOB surface 1500 Polished.

These are Storms recommended steps on a spinner to restore that surface.

1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

Storm® recommends using the suggested cleaner/polish daily. (Reacta-Shine)

In addition, Storm recommends touching up the surface with only the final step every 20 games and resurfacing completely
every 30-50 games

[MICHAEL]

A polished ball will begin to dull regardless of how well it is cleaned after bowling. Storm recommends refreshing the surface of their balls with the final step in the finishing process after every 20 games. In the case of both the Byte and the Fusion, the final step is polishing with Storm Step Two polish. Your proshop should be able to do that for you fairly inexpensively.

You know Rob, I have ordered several different polishes from Bowlingball.com, and NO MATTER HOW MANY I GET, it seems I never have the correct one for a new given ball.

Point in fact, the new Byte I just purchased from a frind, It has less then 20 games on it, but you mention polishing with Storm Step Two POLISH....

here is what I have sooooooo far....lol

1. Factory Finish High Gloss 3 bottles

2. Extreme Dull Pros Choice

3. extreme shine Pros Choice

4. Reacta Shine Storm

5. Royal Shine 5000 grit polish Brunswick

6. Royal Compound 2500 Grit polish Brunswick

7 Ebonite step 2 (****,,, what happened to step 1 ebonite?)

Anyway I might need to purchase a storage shed out back to store all the various polishes!!
I would guess all the various bowling balls are made up of basicly the same stuff. Does my
BYTE need Step 2..... LOL,,,, or will ANY OF THE ABOVE work as well.... :rolleyes:

[MICHAEL]

Cleaning the ball surface with a non-abrasive cleaner (like the 50/50 mix) is fine for removing surface grime and oil.

Now since your balls are shiny a cleaner/polish (one without a slip agent) can be used to help maintain the shine. (Example: Storm Reacta-Shine)

But to remove the "Track Marks" (the area on the surface of the ball that has become worn from friction with the lane surface) you have to sand the ball and return it to the required surface.

Now the Storm Byte and the IQ Fusion both have the same OOB surface 1500 Polished.

These are Storms recommended steps on a spinner to restore that surface. (Info for new Byte ball)

1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

Storm® recommends using the suggested cleaner/polish daily. (Reacta-Shine)

In addition, Storm recommends touching up the surface with only the final step every 20 games and resurfacing completely
every 30-50 games

thanks Al,,,, I needed that info! Can Reacta Shine be used for step 5, instead of Step two? Wow,,, does Iceman now need a another bottle of POLISH??? LOL

[bowl1820]

thanks Al,,,, I needed that info! Can Reacta Shine be used for step 5, instead of Step two? Wow,,, does Iceman now need a another bottle of POLISH??? LOL

You might go back and reread all your other posts about polishing and sand sanding. Which asked the same questions and they will have the answers.

[MICHAEL]

You might go back and reread all your other posts about polishing and sand sanding. Which asked the same questions and they will have the answers.


My question is this. What is the difference between Step 2 storm ,,,, and Reacta-Shine.... I will find the answer Al! LOL I will find the answer,,,, The Truth Is Out There!! (:)

I am 65 Fricken Years Old, and my memory is not quit as keen and it was when I was in my early 60's!! Don't be a good boy scout Al, and help Iceman out on this one. It's ture I have the body of a 44 year old bowling machine, but my mind has been around the block too many times, if you know what I mean....

I will call Storm,,, that would save me a bunch of time!

You know Al,,, sometimes you remind me of MY MOTHER!! LOL.....LOL.... (:) (the way you phrase things)

If not my MOM,,, maybe a wise wizard, wanting to lead person on there search for knowledge, but not giving them answers, but clues to find TRUTHS!! Al..... are you a Wizard???

[RobLV1]

You probably wouldn't see a difference between Reacta-Shine and Step 2, however since virtually every Storm and Roto Grip ball that is polished is finished with Step Two, the purchase of one bottle would probably enable you to get rid of eight or nine others. Personally, I have used Step 2 on occasion, but there is one thing that I really don't like about it: it's brown color gets into the grooves of the logo and ball name and turns the graphics really ugly. For this reason I usually use Powerhouse Factory Finish to bring back the shine instead.

[MICHAEL]

You probably wouldn't see a difference between Reacta-Shine and Step 2, however since virtually every Storm and Roto Grip ball that is polished is finished with Step Two, the purchase of one bottle would probably enable you to get rid of eight or nine others. Personally, I have used Step 2 on occasion, but there is one thing that I really don't like about it: it's brown color gets into the grooves of the logo and ball name and turns the graphics really ugly. For this reason I usually use Powerhouse Factory Finish to bring back the shine instead.

thanks Rob,,, but Iceman is a little confused! Your saying not much difference between Reacta Shine and Step 2?

Your also saying that MOST Storm and Rot Grip balls that are, or have a polished finish, need Step Two also?

What exactly is Step 2?? Why after using say Reacta-Shine, should you use Step 2? If its another polish is it just a different grit, say 5000? MORE INFO please....Pro Finish System

Step 2:
Super Duty Finishing Compound Finishes 320/1500-grit

OK this is what bowlingball.com has to say about the Step 2 product: WHAT,,,, huge difference between 320 and 1500! Reata-Shine is a 1500, with polish.... what is this 320 all about????????

[bowl1820]

Storm's Step 2 Has a coarser grit in it and takes the ball from a 320 base grit to 1500.

Reacta Shine doesn't do that, it is just a 1500 grit polish

These compounds, Rough Buff & Step 2 & clean'n sheen, are more like ultra aggressive polishes. They smooth out the underlying surface very quickly and very aggressively. They use a diminishing type grit which constantly breaks down into smaller and smaller pieces as you use it.
(The new royal compound would be in this group also)

Normal abrasive polishes, like Brunswick Factory Finish High gloss polish and Storm's Xtra Shine, have abrasives in the polish, but their main job is to polish. They do smooth the surface but not as much, nor as aggressively as Rough Buff and Step 2.

Reacta-Shine is a cleaner polish and only has a very fine grit in it.

Now if you didn't have Reacta-Shine you could get away with using Step #2 like Rob said. But you can't substitute Reacta-Shine for Step #2


I don't get it??? It says on storm's web site that Reacta shine takes the ball surface to 1500? Does it?
It all depends on what the underlaying grit is.
Look at it this way, you can use reacta shine to maintain the surface, not to get it to that in the first place.



storm's Step 2 has grit in it and it takes a ball from 320, to 1500, (can you explain how it does that ???)
Step 2 it has a coarser grit in it, if you tried to take a ball sanded at 320 up to 1500 with just reacta shine it would take a long long long time.

Reacta shine is a cleaner/polish with a finer grit to it


When you talking 320 1500, are you referring to sand paper, or abralon pad?
320 -1500 are referring to sandpaper grits
In abralon those would be about 500 - 3000



So Storm's step 2 does away with the need to sand the ball??? I guess you would at the least do the four side technique?
No you still have to sand the ball, the underlaying textures of the other grits used are what get you to the final surface you want.

[RobLV1]

Bowl1820 is undoubtedly right. Personally, I find that if I use one of the three compounds that I normally use (Powerhouse Factory Finish, Storm Step Two, and Motiv Power Gel Polish), I can get a surface that works for me. That's the important thing, a surface that works for you. There is nothing sacred about the OOB finish. It is nothing more than the Marketing Department's best guess as to what surface will appeal to the highest percentage of the ball's target market. Find what works for you, and go with it!

[larry mc]

bring it to a shop with the storm resurfacing machine

[Vince805]

Thank you guys for all the responses and useful tips.
I got some storm reacta form from the proshop for $10. Used it on my Byte and I have to say it did make a noticeable difference even on the lanes. I cleaned my Iq tour fusion but i didnt use that last night. Stock with the byte cuz we got the crap lanes that havent been oiled all week lol. bowled a 221-201-250. But imma have to keep all the other stuff in mind one i use the fusion more....but i should definitly use those other steps on my byte....its past the time you guys said lol

[MICHAEL]

YOU HAVE HELPED Iceman a bunch!! As you both know, I am new to bowling, but have a lot of tools, one being my Spinner, and now home made ball oven.

The KEY to making all this fun stuff WORK, is knowledge! This finally makes sense, and both of you have helped make if VERY CLEAR! Thanks a bunch,,,,, off to the my bowling ball laboratory!!!! (:)

ICEMAN needs to create a ball that will give HIM A 800 Series!!!

[Mudpuppy]

YOU HAVE HELPED Iceman a bunch!! As you both know, I am new to bowling, but have a lot of tools, one being my Spinner, and now home made ball oven.

The KEY to making all this fun stuff WORK, is knowledge! This finally makes sense, and both of you have helped make if VERY CLEAR! Thanks a bunch,,,,, off to the my bowling ball laboratory!!!! (:)

ICEMAN needs to create a ball that will give HIM A 800 Series!!!

you forgot to post this:

http://i340.photobucket.com/albums/o348/mudpuppyr6/Capture-2.jpg (http://s340.photobucket.com/user/mudpuppyr6/media/Capture-2.jpg.html)

[MICHAEL]

Sweet ,,,, mudpuppy!!!! LOL,,,, that's me, white hair and all!!! LMAO!! The Scientific Method,,, trial and error!!

Read about Thomas Edison! (talk about trial and error) (:),,, but look where it got him!!!