The curse of Game 2!!

[Aslan]

I'm really kinda pissed off right now.

The last 2 weeks…I've seen the same darn story repeat itself:

Game 1: Game around 200…doing great.

Game 2: 120s-140s…horrible.

Game 3: 140s-150s….better but below my average.

I mean, 2 straight weeks where out of the gate I am really good…and then for some reason in game 2 I completely fall apart, only to try to salvage a decent series in Game 3. A 499 series last week and 485 series this week. A 485 series is HORRIBLE considering I scored a 210 in game 1!! :mad:

I don't get it. I'm trying to move left as the lane conditions change…I've changed balls to match up better with the lane conditions…yet each week…same ole story.

Tonight I not only led my team to victory in Game 1, but won the poker hand with 9 marks (only open was the 2nd frame). I was feeling as confident as ever…only to see me fall to utter embarrassment in game 2.

On the one hand, don't want to fall into my tendency to over think things…and I don't want to re-develop bad habits of "chucking the ball". On the other hand…with this slower, lower loft release…I can't seems to stay right of the headpin…even after going from the Rhythm to the Frantic. I mean, for ****s sake…how far and fast do I have to move left to stay ahead of oil pattern changes?? I spent all night between the 5-10 boards…with my left foot between center and 7 boards right of center. By the time I even considered going down a ball to the Slingshot…the night was at an end.

[RobLV1]

It's all a matter of traffic on the lanes. Yesterday after our trios league, a friend of mine came up to me complaining about how much the lanes were hooking. He told me that by the fourth game (we bowl two games on a pair, move one pair to the right, and bowl two more games against the same team) he was using a plastic spare ball. He is a typical house bowler who stands on the big dot in the center and targets the second arrow. Now, here's the deal: during the course of the four games, I used two very aggressive bowling balls, the Mastermind and the Mastermind Genius. I started out standing 32, crossing the arrows around 16, throwing out to around 10 at the tracers. By the end of the fourth game, I was standing 35, crossing around 17, throwing out to around 12 at the tracers. I never "balled down," and had to move only three boards over the course of four games for the simple reason that I was the only one playing that line. If you insist on playing the outside part of the lane with everyone else, to answer your question of "how far and fast do I have to move left to stay ahead of oil pattern changes," the answer is very far and very fast if you choose to play with everyone else. If, and when, you decide that you can use the friction that is past the pattern, rather than the friction that is outside the pattern, then the answer becomes not too far, and not too fast. It's your choice!

[vdubtx]

I had the same kind if night last night. 246-194-254. My problem was 10 pins. Rob Is right though, less moves typically needed the further in you play, assuming not many others are playing same line.

[Aslan]

I had the same kind if night last night. 246-194-254. My problem was 10 pins. Rob Is right though, less moves typically needed the further in you play, assuming not many others are playing same line.
For me; it's definitely a trend.

Game 1 average: 202
Game 2 average: 142
Game 3 average: 169

Thats after 3 weeks.


I used two very aggressive bowling balls, the Mastermind and the Mastermind Genius. I started out standing 32, crossing the arrows around 16, throwing out to around 10 at the tracers. By the end of the fourth game, I was standing 35, crossing around 17, throwing out to around 12 at the tracers. I never "balled down," and had to move only three boards over the course of four games for the simple reason that I was the only one playing that line. If you insist on playing the outside part of the lane with everyone else, to answer your question of "how far and fast do I have to move left to stay ahead of oil pattern changes," the answer is very far and very fast if you choose to play with everyone else. If, and when, you decide that you can use the friction that is past the pattern, rather than the friction that is outside the pattern, then the answer becomes not too far, and not too fast. It's your choice!

I'm a believer in developing 3 speeds and 3 lines (outside, 2nd arrow, and inside). The problem is, I think you need an asymmetric core ball or a high rev rate in order to be effective inside. I've tried using a ball with an aggressive overstock…high hook rating…but a symmetric core ball just doesn't have that backend snap. You can't throw it out towards that 10-pin…2/3 down the lane, and have it "snap" back.

You're using the Mastermind…one of the 3 highest hook (in terms of overall rating) asymmetric balls on the market. Unfortunately, I don't have one of those yet. So I've all but given up on my inside game right now. And since I want to break my "chucking it" habit…I'm holding off on developing more revs or a higher speed.

Just really frustrated. I guess I can all down to the Slingshot, maybe try the Frantic at a lower speed inside…but man, this is gonna be a LONG month!! (Synthetic Lanes added by June sometime.)

[Mike White]

For me; it's definitely a trend.

Game 1 average: 202
Game 2 average: 142
Game 3 average: 169

Thats after 3 weeks.



I'm a believer in developing 3 speeds and 3 lines (outside, 2nd arrow, and inside). The problem is, I think you need an asymmetric core ball or a high rev rate in order to be effective inside. I've tried using a ball with an aggressive overstock…high hook rating…but a symmetric core ball just doesn't have that backend snap. You can't throw it out towards that 10-pin…2/3 down the lane, and have it "snap" back.

I can throw it out towards the 10-pin... 2/3 down the lane, and have it "snap" back. As long as the back ends are fairly clean.

Not only with a symmetric core ball, but even with a pancake weight block ball, both plastic surface (White Dot) and urethane (Storm Mix, and Polar Ice)
But like you commented above, it requires a high rev rate since I don't rely on the lane to increase the rev rate of the ball.

[RobLV1]

Aslan: Before you can learn to play deeper inside, you have to realize that you don't need three different shots to play three different lines. You just move your feet left and your target left, while opening your shoulders to project the ball out to your breakpoint. That's all that's different. Try to adjust by changing ball speeds is dangerous to anyone below the pro level. It's very difficult to change your ball speed without changing your timing, and timing is the key to everything: balance, tempo, direction (accuracy), and the effectiveness of your release. Your shot should be the same whether you are playing the first arrow or the third arrow. As for needing a ball that "hooks more," balls don't hook more or less, they just hook earlier or later. Realize that on a 40' house shot, there is still 20' feet of friction past the pattern. You don't have to mess with the early friction on the outside of the pattern unless you choose to.

[Aslan]

But like you commented above, it requires a high rev rate since I don't rely on the lane to increase the rev rate of the ball.

A thumbless player can throw a 6lb ball halfway down the lane and get it to come back….but at a rev rate that would exceed even the "Tweener" rate I can accomplish only when really torquing my shot (coming WAY up the side and "chucking" it).


you have to realize that you don't need three different shots to play three different lines.
Sorry. I meant you need 3 different speeds AND 3 different lines. Not 3 different speed/line combinations. I agree…I'm working on one speed and trying to work on 3 different lines for that very reason. Adjusting my speed down…has been a struggle…and the last thing I need right now is to start "firing" the ball further down the lane again…= progress lost.



As for needing a ball that "hooks more," balls don't hook more or less, they just hook earlier or later. Realize that on a 40' house shot, there is still 20' feet of friction past the pattern. You don't have to mess with the early friction on the outside of the pattern unless you choose to.

I realize that. But if you look at standard ball "tracks" you'll see symmetric core balls tend to have smoother arcs. A solid coverstock balls will look sort of like a backwards "C" versus a pearl, where it's gonna look more like a fish hook or backwards/upside down "J". Now, obviously…RGs, Diffs, releases, drillings…all these play their part in adjusting that slightly…but do you agree with that assessment generally??

The value of the asymmetric core is it increases that Diff and gives you a more angular, dramatic turn into the pocket. Correct?

Case in Points:
My Storm Frantic is my best ball. It does what every bowler cries for….it goes long and comes back hard. BUT! BUT…not "angular". It goes late and comes back smoothly into the pocket. Thats why I think its a great ball for beginners or as a ball down for guys with larger arsenals that need something for lower oil.

My Hammer Rhythm (essentially a Hammer Arson with a solid coverstock), as you would say, doesn't hook "more"…it hooks "earlier". That is true. That is very, very true. Its RG is very close to the Frantic (as most balls are very close to 2.5 in RG)…its diff is also similar…drilling similar as well. But it doesn't go "long"…not on wood lanes. I can "make" it go long…loft it 20ft and "force" it to hook later.

But…BUT….the point is…the Rhythm is for heavier oil. Using it on wood lanes…at my lower speed/rev rate is trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. Right? Can't out bowl a bad ball reaction right? So what if I move inside. Lets say I start at the 15-board and throw over center towards my break point with the Rhythm. Slow my speed…give it as MUCH time as it needs to get back across that last 20ft. But it won't work. The core is fighting me. I'm asking it to take a more angular path than it's designed for.

Thats my working theory anyways. Based on what I've learned about balls…mostly from you by the way…(bowling balls ya weirdos). Now, if anyone wants to prove me wrong…and they have a standard, symmetric, solid overstock drilled ball (without and weird drillings) and would like to throw that ball…inside line (throwing from 10 boards+ left of center) out to the right towards a break point…and have that ball come back into the pocket…all with a rev rate < 300rpms…go ahead and impress me. Thats what Youtube is for right?

[Mike White]

A thumbless player can throw a 6lb ball halfway down the lane and get it to come back….but at a rev rate that would exceed even the "Tweener" rate I can accomplish only when really torquing my shot (coming WAY up the side and "chucking" it).

Yes they can get it to come back because they don't throw those 6# balls at an angle to the right, they "skid" the ball along the oil line.



Thats my working theory anyways. Based on what I've learned about balls…mostly from you by the way…(bowling balls ya weirdos). Now, if anyone wants to prove me wrong…and they have a standard, symmetric, solid overstock drilled ball (without and weird drillings) and would like to throw that ball…inside line (throwing from 10 boards+ left of center) out to the right towards a break point…and have that ball come back into the pocket…all with a rev rate < 300rpms…go ahead and impress me. Thats what Youtube is for right?

If someone throws the ball 10+ boards left of center out to a break point on the right side of the lane, the ball initially has a good deal of momentum in the left to right direction.

The only force to counter act that momentum comes from the RPMs, adjusted by the axis rotation and axis tilt and ball - lane interaction.

If you limit the rev rate to <300, it's likely there is more momentum away from the head pin than the RPMs can create back towards the head pin.

When those are the same, the best you can do is get the ball to stop moving to the right, you need more momentum to the left from the RPMS get make the ball turn back to the left.

In the past, people played very parallel to the boards to eliminate the momentum away from the head pin, because it was difficult to produce momentum towards the head pin via RPMS / ball - lane interaction.

The modern reactive resin balls have greatly increased the ball - lane interaction (when the ball in on a dry part of the lane), to the point it's easy to create too much momentum back towards the headpin.

That is why the THS has so much oil in the middle.

[RobLV1]

Aslan: Very good question! My initial response is that symmetrical vs. asymmetrical balls will have the same shape, based on the angles, not the pin to PAP distances. I'll try in the next week or so to shoot some video using the IQ Tour and the Mastermind Genius (both have hybrid covers) and similar layouts. Let's see!

[Aslan]

If you limit the rev rate to <300, it's likely there is more momentum away from the head pin than the RPMs can create back towards the head pin.
Exactly. 100% agree with this assessment.


I'll try in the next week or so to shoot some video using the IQ Tour and the Mastermind Genius (both have hybrid covers) and similar layouts. Let's see!

THAT would be very interesting video to watch. If you throw them the same way towards your break point…I would expect that if you're throwing from the same spot and the Mastermind Genius is "dialed in"….the IQ Tour will not make it back to the pocket and will go in to far right. Thats my hypothesis anyways.

Not saying cores are magical…just saying that the inside game for a stroker or tweener requires an asymmetric core. (my theory)

[RobLV1]

Okay, here's the link to the video: http://youtu.be/XItHVpq4d0A

Sorry to burst your bubble, but the reaction from the Fusion was actually stronger, based on the difference in layouts. Let me give you the scenario for the video: this was the sixth game of pot games with three bowlers on most pairs, moving one pair after each game, so the lanes had between 16 and 18 games on them. Please note that I was playing the same line with both balls, third arrow out no further than 12 board at the tracers. This was meant to be a demonstration that you don't have to be a high rev player, or use an overly-aggressive bowling ball to move left into the oil, as long as you move your breakpoint left as well. I do apologize for the quality of the video as it was shot on my cell phone as a last minute thing.

[Aslan]

Well…I don't get it.

Apparently the consensus opinion is that the core of a bowling ball simply makes no difference.

I find that odd….because nearly every ball has an RG of around 2.48 to 2.55….and a Differential of about .040 to .051…which is virtually nothing. So if RG and differential are insignificant…and the core is insignificant…then what? It's all release and a little bit of overstock? I mean, whats the point of all these specifications if they are meaningless?

An assymettric core should be more angular. A symmetric core should be less angular, smoother, more predictable. If that isn't happening…then ball specifications are no more meaningful than the scent.

[RobLV1]

On the contrary, the core of the bowling ball is very important, it's just important to different bowlers in different ways. The reason that I picked the Genius and the Fusion to compare is that they both have hybrid covers, and very similar low rg's: 2.488 for the Genius and 2.49 for the Fusion. For a lower rev player like me (and you for that matter), the low rg is a very important aspect to consider when purchasing a bowling ball. You also need to realize that the two different layouts that were used on these balls change the numbers that are associated with the core. The Fusion uses one of my standard layouts, while the Genius was drilled specifically to compliment my Mastermind which is drilled very similarly to the Fusion.

If you saw these two balls thrown side by side by a high rev player, and the layouts were the same, you would see a difference in ball reaction based not only on the symmetry of the cores, but also the differentials (0.052 for the Genius, and 0.029 for the Fusion).

I realize that you have a need to have some "rules" to make this modern complex game more controllable for you, but you need to realize that each of our individual games dictate what these rules are for each of us.

[Aslan]

but also the differentials (0.052 for the Genius, and 0.029 for the Fusion).

I found that very interesting about the Fusion. And further why its so confusing that the Fusion has an equal backend. With the core and that low of a differential…the numbers just don't match the performance.

I'm sure you're right that it varies for players. Just annoying that there is apparently no benchmark so long as people throw the ball slightly differently.

[RobLV1]

I think that it's more a matter of expectations than anything else. Many bolwers still want to believe that there is a magic ball out there that will magically transform them into great bowlers. That's just not the case. As I stated earlier, how the ball is drilled does nothing more than to change the numbers, both rg and differential. This is true for every ball, every time holes are drilled into them. Again, the Genius was drilled to go longer and be less angular than the Fusion simply because I wanted the Genius to compliment the Mastermind which, by the way, it does very well.

While a high rev player might very well take both the Genius and the Fusion to the same outing based on the differences in symmetry and differentials, I would not based on the similarities in cover materials and low rgs. As you hopefully saw in the video, there were differences between the balls for me, but the differences were slight. In the hands of a power player, I think that the differences would have been much more noticeable. I'll put another video on my bucket list, showing two bowlers, one low rev and one high rev, using the same two balls so that you can better see the differences.

Modern bowling balls are incredibly powerful machines, but they do not replace the need for developing a strong physical game.

[Aslan]

Modern bowling balls are incredibly powerful machines, but they do not replace the need for developing a strong physical game.

From what you're saying and the videos you did...I'd almost change that statement to be..."there really aren't much differences in bowling balls that you can't counter with release/drilling....so buy 3 different coverstocks and it really doesn't matter what the specs are."

And don't get me wrong...it's not just your opinion and videos that make me think that...bowlingball.com in one of their video episodes talked about the effect of cores and essentially said the same thing...cores don't really matter much. I've seen videos of ball manufacturers talking about different cores...but I've yet to see anyone show a difference. It would be interesting to see that USBC robot throw some symmetric and assymetric core balls to get a look at it in a very repeatable way...like they did to show surface differences. And bowlingball.com...siad the same thing in terms of coverstock/surface...that how you surface the ball has far more of an impact than cores/RG/Diff.

Just disappointing...because it really further adds evidence to the belief that you can buy whatever brand, whatever ball....and there's really no difference. Hammer, Brunswick, Columbia, Storm, RotoGrip...throw a dart at a dart board or just buy the one thats on sale...because they ALL hit "like a hammer"...whether they are "Hammer" or not.

[Mudpuppy]

In terms of a "magic" ball I think it is quite the opposite - I think it takes more work to figure out each new ball and drilling than it helps. Maybe once you do decode the ball's potential, etc. maybe there is a bit of magic - a small choir of angels might harmonize as you throw the 8th strike. But ultimately you can't take a great ball and bad form / technique and expect to go head to head with Aslan's favorite future hall of famer Belmo. Not happening. Just like trying to take someone (most people around here) and putting them into a F1 and expecting them to be competitive on the world stage - just not happening. That is the problem with this iSociety we live in - no one wants to work for anything. That is why social security is broke and welfare is booming. Bowling, like anything, takes hard work, time and patience to get good.

[RobLV1]

Aslan: This is exactly why I've long recommended sticking to two or three layouts for all of your bowling balls. If you have one ball with a low rg of 2.48, and another with a low rg of 2.56, you may not know the exact post-drilling numbers, but you will know that the difference between them will be the same as the ratio between 2.48 and 2.56. Take this information along with a working knowledge of how the layout angles affect the shape of the reaction, and the differences in the way that different cover materials from the same or different manufacturers, and you can begin to understand bowling balls. You seem to be looking for an overly simple answer, and there just isn't one, but that doesn't mean there isn't an answer, it just means you have to work at finding it.

[Aslan]

You seem to be looking for an overly simple answer

I'm just a very, very analytical thinker. So if I see a number or combination of numbers...I assume I can derive results using those numbers. Much of bowling is simply physics. If you understand every number in the equation...you should be able to get the answer. But if you rule out all other variables...and compare two numbers by themselves (like cores)...the assymetric core "should" in theory have a more angular motion.

Now, my secondary hypothesis is that by having different drilling layouts, you'd made the symmetric ball more assymetric and assymetric ball more symmetric. Also, as you mentioned...the angular motion may not be as noticeable for lower rev rates. It's just trying to wrap my head around why your video seems to defy physics.

I'm not looking for a "magic ball". I'm looking for the opposite...a way of predicting ball tendencies using the numbers given in their specifications....not to give me a ball that does "magic" but to give me a ball that does exactly what physics dictates.

Where are our bowling ball scientists!??? Ebonite?? RotoGrip? Track? Columbia? I know you got a nerdy guy with a pocket protector that can speak my language....I summon thee!!

[RobLV1]

My ball driller and coach who you met when you were in Vegas is also my golfing partner. He's says that I overthink everything, but I pale in comparison to you. This will really mess with your head: symmetrical balls are only symmetrical until they have holes drilled into them. Once the holes have been drilled, they are all asymmetrical. There is no ball that does exactly what physics dictates because there is alway the human factor involved: the physical game of the bowler. Learn the basics, and grow from there instead of tying to find the magic formula. It just doesn't exist, and I'm pretty sure that anyone from any of the ball companies will tell you the same thing. The closest that you can come are the Dual Angle System, and the Storm VLS System, and both of these deal with layouts and how the core is positioned within the ball.

[Aslan]

My ball driller and coach who you met when you were in Vegas is also my golfing partner. He's says that I overthink everything, but I pale in comparison to you.

I've decided to take that as a sort of compliment.

[RobLV1]

It can be, but it can also be a curse. Let me give you an example:

I used to be a pretty good golfer. I had a handicap of 5, and could easily score in the mid-seventies. Then I decided to go back to work and become a school teacher. Suddenly I could only play golf during the summer and, once in a while, on the weekends. Now, at a time when any round below about 88 is considered pretty good, I still try to play shots that I am no longer able to hit. When I tell Mike what I was trying to do after a shot doesn't work, he will often say, "Rob, why don't you just try to hit it straight?" When I try to hit a certain type of shot and it works, it's great. Unfortunately, in the long run, overthinking is more of a burden than a blessing. Try to keep that in mind when you're overanalyzing most everything.

[Aslan]

The golf example doesn't work because I think golf is evil and developed by Satan to make people of retirement age want to commit suicide.

I don't know how many times I hit the ball, it goes right or left…and the person says, "it actually went where your feet were pointed." Then I adjust…it goes way too far the other way, and they say "huh. Seems like your feet were still pointed the other way." It's like…"dammit. It doesn't matter which way my feet point…I'm gonna hit it and the stupid ball is going to go wherever…and I just have to accept that.

[Hampe]

From what you're saying and the videos you did...I'd almost change that statement to be..."there really aren't much differences in bowling balls that you can't counter with release/drilling....so buy 3 different coverstocks and it really doesn't matter what the specs are."

And don't get me wrong...it's not just your opinion and videos that make me think that...bowlingball.com in one of their video episodes talked about the effect of cores and essentially said the same thing...cores don't really matter much. I've seen videos of ball manufacturers talking about different cores...but I've yet to see anyone show a difference. It would be interesting to see that USBC robot throw some symmetric and assymetric core balls to get a look at it in a very repeatable way...like they did to show surface differences. And bowlingball.com...siad the same thing in terms of coverstock/surface...that how you surface the ball has far more of an impact than cores/RG/Diff.Just because coverstock, layout, and surface changes have more of an affect on ball movement, it doesn't mean the core doesn't have one at all.

Rob is right that you are worrying too much about stuff that doesn't matter yet. You haven't even been bowling for a year.....worrying about different ball specs isn't going to help you at all right now. You need to build up your game first, get the fundamentals down, and THEN you can start worrying about which balls/specs you might want or need.


Just disappointing...because it really further adds evidence to the belief that you can buy whatever brand, whatever ball....and there's really no difference. Hammer, Brunswick, Columbia, Storm, RotoGrip...throw a dart at a dart board or just buy the one thats on sale...because they ALL hit "like a hammer"...whether they are "Hammer" or not.As far as companies go, yea, that's pretty much correct. They all have a ball for every condition, and you probably couldn't tell the difference between a heavy-oil ball from Storm or one from RotoGrip (Ok....bad example, the Storm ball will smell like something :D). But, for example, you can't take a light-oil ball, drill it as aggressive as possible and then think your gonna go play on a heavily oiled lane and get the same performance as a heavy-oil ball (even one that's drilled less "aggressively" than the light oil ball).

You can think of the specifications of a bowling ball kind of like it's "maximum potential". For example, a ball with a low differential number will have a smoother arc, as opposed to having a more angular movement. That doesn't mean you can't put a layout on it to make it have a more angular motion, but you won't be using the ball for what it was "designed" for, and it probably won't perform as well for you as a ball with a higher differential number that's also drilled to have a more angular motion. At least, that's the way I understand it....maybe I'm wrong :).

[Aslan]

overthinking is more of a burden than a blessing. Try to keep that in mind when you're overanalyzing most everything.

One thing you'll notice if you watch me bowl, practice or league or tournament...doesn't matter...is I'll have 3 things with me: a cell phone with PinPal app, a pad of paper, and a pen/pencil.

You'll see that between each shot, I go to the PinPal app to record the pin fall. You'll notice before each frame, I look at the pad of paper. And you'll notice that occasionally, especially after a shot misses it's mark...that I'll write things on that pad of paper.

MWhite recently bowled with me and asked, "Why do you have to mark each pin fall and not just do it at the end of the frame (because that annoys him)?" I said, "Because I won't remember what I left if I wait till the end." He said, "so you won't remember you left a 6-10 after you knock down a 6-10?" I responded, "Well...for a 6-10 or a corner pin...I probably would. But for other leaves...it's closer to 60% on average."

Now, you can chalk that up to me just not having a very good memory. But the "real" reason is that I'm thinking of so many things between shots that I actaully forget what I knocked down 2 shots ago. That paper is to remind me where to stand and where to target...especially when alternating lanes (league style) because if I don't keep track of it...I'll forget from frame to frame where I was standing.

Like I said, I'm a very analytical guy. In fantasy baseball I had a spreadsheet for drafting prospects that was over 700 players deep and used multiple metrics to produce an overall score that was designed to predict the best performance of a player. It was usually correct...but not always. In Moneyball...I'm the fat kid that tells you who is good even though scouts don't like him. I can tell you who to take first over a more talented guy to take 2nd because the 1st most talented guy will be available in the 2nd round and the 2nd best guy won't.

So yes..you have no idea how many gears are spinning in the cuckoo clock that is my mind...the Tim Burtonish nightmare world that exists there. I have "limited" that machine by imposing restrictions on the number of things to simultaneously think about on my approach to 4 things. Without that self imposed limitation...I've focused on so many things during some of my approaches that I've thrown the ball "back-up ball" style because I forgot to move my hand up the side of the ball on the release. Sometimes, you can tell when I'm "thinking way too much" because I'll start on the wrong foot and stop myself and restart.

If I could vocalize what is going on in my mind...uncontrolled..it would read: "4-step not 5-step...right foot first 8th board target...am I lined up?...how high to hold the ball?...strike shot, ball down...slow and roll...but don't forget release...and point to the target...STEP.....push out...timing...timing...eyes straight, don't look sideways...who is bowling next to me? I wonder how thy're scoring? STEP the waitress is hot...dammit I "hopped" between steps again!...backswing...backwsing too high? Can't tell...remember to release by the ankle...but project the ball! Don't drop it! But slow it down and roll it. You're backswing is too high...too much speed...just bowl like Earl Anthony...set it down....with accuracy...STEP...timing is off...I know timing is off...shoulders square, don't over-rotate!! What target was I aiming for again...8 or 9...dammit what lane am I on...31, okay thats the left side and 8th board...but with accuracyt...missing your mark won't tell you anything...I wonder what my next poker card will be...I need another Jack....I wonder what the pot will be, there's a lot of people playing...crap...I missed a board left...and I didn't point to the target...dang, it's moving too much left....why is my balance leg still up? And did I even remember to use my balance arm...BALL HITS PINS.

You think it's exhausting to READ it....try thinking it while taking 4 steps and swinging a 16lb ball through the air.

[RobLV1]

I can honestly say that's terrifying! Do read "The Inner Game of Golf," or "The Inner Game of Tennis." I think either book would do wonders for your bowling.

[ALazySavage]

100% agree with Rob that "The Inner Game of Tennis" is a great book to read to help out the mental aspects of any sport. There is very little about Tennis in this book so it is not sport specific.

[mc_runner]

Dude, your mental game is a mess. You should be focusing on your mark and letting your body do the work from muscle memory (I'm sure you know this already though). If I get one thought in my mind when I'm on the approach... like "hey, I'm at the top of my backswing!" it breaks my concentration on the mark and I'm almost guaranteed a bad shot. What works for me sometimes is to have a song playing in my head on the approach and focus on that (and my mark...) to try to clear out my head.

It's something I'm working on still. Some nights I have no problem with a clear head, others I can't help myself (see last night's scores for instance). And it builds on itself, too... you get "off" once or twice and its HARD not to start thinking about your mechanics and forcing stuff.

[Aslan]

What works for me sometimes is to have a song playing in my head on the approach and focus on that (and my mark...) to try to clear out my head.
I've tried that. I used to do well if I sang "Hound Dog" by Elvis Pressley...but then Rob said to pick a slower song because I tend to move to fast on the approach. So now I try to pick slower country songs like Don Williams or Merle Haggard...but then I find myself trying to remember the words while on the approach...which then distracts me.


It's something I'm working on still. Some nights I have no problem with a clear head, others I can't help myself (see last night's scores for instance). And it builds on itself, too... you get "off" once or twice and its HARD not to start thinking about your mechanics and forcing stuff.
Yes. That is true...and I think true at every level of the sport. It's very hard to get back in a groove when you know you opened and will likely need to strike out to win.

[Perrin]

Finding a song that matches your natural timing can be a blessing.... BUT only if you can block out other things... like songs playing in the bowling alley... When your timing is dependant on what somone is playing on the jukebox then it could be a rough night :D