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TotallyDefiant
06-09-2014, 12:52 PM
I know this is a long video but please review and let me know what you think. I have lost some of the side rotation on the ball while working hard on the new release. I personally think my over all form has gotten a lot better since the first video I posted but need a different set of eyes.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjfg5KhEGdM

TotallyDefiant
06-16-2014, 06:38 PM
Figured someone would have commented by now.

mc_runner
06-16-2014, 10:13 PM
I'm by no means an expert, but I think you'd get more revs by staying inside the ball through to release. To me your timing doesn't look too bad, you're getting your ball to the line at the same time as your slide foot and holding your form... take my advice with a grain of salt though as I am working on my shot too :)

rv driver
06-17-2014, 09:25 AM
It's kind of hard to see what's going on -- I have a rather small screen, and even at HD resolution and full-screen, the image is small. A guess: maybe you're "trying too hard" to "make" the ball hook? I hear that all the time here. From what I see the form looks good, but maybe somebody with a bigger screen and better critical eye can give some better feedback.

RobLV1
06-18-2014, 09:25 AM
The main thing that I am seeing is a tendency to turn the ball early in an effort to get more revs. Early turn actually has the opposite effect; it gets you on the side of the ball and results in a loss of revs. Here's a drill: imagine that you have an eye in the middle of the inside of your right elbow. Make sure that it keeps looking at your intended line until after your thumb has exited the ball. Only then does your hand turn through the ball. The eye never leaves the intended target line.

TotallyDefiant
06-18-2014, 12:03 PM
Rob, I actually worked on that lastnight before league. Achieved a lot better roll when I executed it properly but since it is not 100% comfortable yet it was not consistent what so ever. My average has dropped almost 40 pins this month.

RobLV1
06-18-2014, 03:41 PM
Your average drop may not be due to changes in your physical game, but to changes in your bowling centers oiling practices during the summer months. Heat and humidity can also affect the shot tremendously. When the weather gets hot and humid, try to avoid the oil line (second arrow) as much as possible as the shot often becomes over/under during the summer. Choose either the dry or the oil, but commit to one or the other and I think you'll probably have more success.

TotallyDefiant
06-18-2014, 05:52 PM
Your average drop may not be due to changes in your physical game, but to changes in your bowling centers oiling practices during the summer months. Heat and humidity can also affect the shot tremendously. When the weather gets hot and humid, try to avoid the oil line (second arrow) as much as possible as the shot often becomes over/under during the summer. Choose either the dry or the oil, but commit to one or the other and I think you'll probably have more success.

A lot of it had to do with my release and not getting the correct rotation on the ball. Example lastnight after working on the release before league I was still not comfortable with it and would either A. tug it left or B. not release it correctly and get no rotation. Before lastnight the rotation on the ball was very slow and almost rotating 12-6 end over end. This is the main issue I have been fighting.

RobLV1
06-18-2014, 06:28 PM
A lot of it had to do with my release and not getting the correct rotation on the ball. Example lastnight after working on the release before league I was still not comfortable with it and would either A. tug it left or B. not release it correctly and get no rotation. Before lastnight the rotation on the ball was very slow and almost rotating 12-6 end over end. This is the main issue I have been fighting.

Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.

rv driver
06-18-2014, 07:56 PM
Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.
So, for more tilt and rotation, you want to move your wrist to the OUTSIDE of the ball? Because that's the picture I'm getting from your description.

mc_runner
06-18-2014, 10:18 PM
So, for more tilt and rotation, you want to move your wrist to the OUTSIDE of the ball? Because that's the picture I'm getting from your description.

I don't think so - to me I read it as staying more inside. If you have the fingers on the "front" of the ball to start and you keep your arm/elbow/etc on the same line, you are only changing your wrist position to reflect that. Imagine it from each position as it goes straight into the backswing and into the release - it's a more cocked (inside) position.

RobLV1
06-18-2014, 10:22 PM
Right! The wrist is more to the outside, but the arm and hand are still behind the ball: more rotation and axis tilt.

Amyers
06-18-2014, 10:25 PM
So, for more tilt and rotation, you want to move your wrist to the OUTSIDE of the ball? Because that's the picture I'm getting from your description.

Remember though the elbow has to stay in and the hand behind the ball. Otherwise the elbow comes out and you end up pulling the ball left believe me I know

rv driver
06-19-2014, 08:26 AM
Oh, ok! Ok! Gotcha. I had the wrist broken instead of cocked (because, to me, broken or straight = "behind the ball"). Cocked is more "under" the ball. But -- that's what you said that I missed: "slightly under the ball."

MICHAEL
06-19-2014, 11:11 AM
Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.

Rob, speaking of wrist position, I am have incredible success so far shooting 10 pins with my wrist under the ball, and middle finger at 12 o'clock.
When I release the ball I keep that position, ball roles straight! (its a weak ball sling shoot drilled weak just for spares) Do many pro bowlers throw there spares using this technique, palm up? It takes that last second HOOK out of the ball and it I hit middle arrow picks up the ten pin almost every time. Last Tuesday, was 4 for 4! Yesterday, had some carry problems! a few 7s, and 8 ten pin leaves. Ball looked like it crushed the pocket, even looked like a great angle into the pocket, but there it was after the smoked cleared the 10 pin!

picked up both 7 pins,,, they are never a problem for me, but did miss ONE 10! MUCH better then in the past when I threw a plastic ball that is VERY unforgiving. The Sling Shot is weak, but has just a little grab to where if I miss target a little to the right, it will have JUST enough grab to hang on! (throwing palm up, middle finger at 12 o clock)

TotallyDefiant
06-19-2014, 01:55 PM
Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.

Thank you Rob. This makes complete sense. My hand has been directly under the ball, cupped wrist, and middle finger pointing down lane. I will do away with the cupped wrist and try more of the cocked position like you describe and see if this helps me any.

TotallyDefiant
06-23-2014, 08:56 AM
I went and worked on what you described Friday night Rob. I was seeing the proper rotation I was wanting to see just not seeing the revs I want. Very very slow revs.