New ball for drier conditions help

[foreverincamo]

Anyone reading this, will you please share what make and model ball you use for either when a medium condition has burned up, or just generally dry conditions. Thanks

[RobLV1]

Brunswick LT-48

[Amyers]

Seismic euphoria works great unless the heads are completely gone

[striker12]

well you should go with a urethane ball or a ball that's ment for med-dry oil, there is a lot of bowling balls out there but witch brand do you want to get

also if you want you can go over to bowlingball.com site, put your mouse over the balls icon it will lower a list of stuff, go to lane condition witch is right beside the brands and below the performance, you can click dry or med-dry balls and it will bring up a list and you can look threw all different brands there and look for the one that you like.

but pick more then 1 at least 3 or 4 and come back over here with your choices and we can help you pick

[foreverincamo]

* *I'd like to stay in the Brunswick/DV8 line as I have had great success with my Marauder. I have been researching the DV8 Misfit Solid red/orange, the Johnny Petraglia Vintage LT-48, the Brunswick Ringer and Ringer Platinum Pearl, the DV8 Outcast, *and the DV8 Hooligan.

[RobLV1]

I can't imagine a "normal" lane condition on a house shot that requires a bowler to resort to a urethane or plastic bowling balls unless the lanes haven't been oiled for about three days. When you start on a relatively fresh condition, as the lanes dry up, move left into the oil. Those that routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers are those who can't move in and open up the lane.

[foreverincamo]

I can move in and throw the ball right all night and pound the pocket. I'm looking for a ball to minimize the move and allow me to play straighter and carry better. As the night progresses the 10 pins start accumulating. It's an old tough house that has been open for 52 years and has less than 50 300's thrown in it.

[foreverincamo]

Oh by the way, RobLV1, I have one of the 300's thrown there.

[striker12]

foreverincamo do you have idea what your rev rate is and also is the bowling alley wood or synthetic lanes.

but I will get a hold of my buddy he has the ringer and ringer platinum pearl (all he throws is Brunswick)

the only Brunswick ball I got is the brawler great ball.
I did have 4 DV8 balls but sold 1 because it was 14lb and the other cracked but the 2 I still have is the nightmare and marauder (I just have to get a new thumb slug for my marauder the one in it is all worn out)

rob you are right about that most people don't have to go to that weak of cover stoke. I only suggested it but also a med-dry ball because he never said his rev rate so I did not want to pick a ball for him.

the urethane ball I have is the ebonite nitro with the pancake core, the only time I throw it, even on fresh but when I get left to where I have to loft the left gutter push out to around 10-5 board and it still over hooks so I switch to my nitro and go straight up 10, but not often that I do this because I will more go to my network go up 5 board. when I start leaving corners 1 after another even after making adjustments is when I do a ball change.


but the DV8 outcast and hooligan I will have to call one of my jr bowling coachs and see if he has ether one of those

[YODA]

without knowing alot about your game, rev speed etc... I would look at the Storm Tropical.It has polished factory finish and reactive resin coverstock with a modified 3-piece core design... :)

[foreverincamo]

I'm a down and in player when I can. Ball speed 14.5 - 15 mph at the pins. The lanes are the original wooden lanes installed in 1962. I'm a low rev player but don't have the rev rate number.

[striker12]

ok got off the phone with my buddy and he said the ringer platinum pearl went longer then the ringer but has more of a move then the ringer did.

my 1 jr bowling coach has not acculy gotten ether of the DV8 balls yet but he did test out the misfit solid and he said his words with testing muti layout that it was kind of not consistent.

so the ball I would say is the one roblv1 said the LT - 48

[Mike White]

I can't imagine a "normal" lane condition on a house shot that requires a bowler to resort to a urethane or plastic bowling balls unless the lanes haven't been oiled for about three days. When you start on a relatively fresh condition, as the lanes dry up, move left into the oil. Those that routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers are those who can't move in and open up the lane.

Um Rob, I routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers.

Are you saying I can't move in and open up the lane?

[MICHAEL]

Um Rob, I routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers.

Are you saying I can't move in and open up the lane?

Yes Mike that's what he is saying, Mr 600 rev guy! So don't do it!! Hey ,,,,who won the Aslan vs Michael tournament?? Sure I beat Aslan, but who knows next time if a 67 year old can beat a 41 year old! I am pretty sure I will be victorious again, but its not written in stone!

Rob is the MASTER! His word is truth, not to be questioned, its dogma! Do what you want Mike, but suffer the consequences of defying The God Of Bowling!

Rob used his HUGE Knowledge Base to defeat the magnificent four!!

I, ICEMAN, will never question his thoughts or ideas again.... I am in the market for a plastic spare ball as I type!!!

(I even noticed that his wife seems to WORSHIP HIM!) :)

People at the lanes, (in Suncoast), would reach out just to touch him,,,, swearing never to wash their hand EVER AGAIN!

Such is his POWER!

[Amyers]

Um Rob, I routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers.

Are you saying I can't move in and open up the lane?

I'm pretty sure that Rob was referring to bowlers with much lower rev rates than Mike and who change to lower friction balls so they can continue to play the outside of the lanes.

[bubba809]

Um Rob, I routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers.

Are you saying I can't move in and open up the lane?



Why be such a d***? We are ALL sure Rob was referring to less experienced bowlers and or rev rates.

[MICHAEL]

I'm pretty sure that Rob was referring to bowlers with much lower rev rates than Mike and who change to lower friction balls so they can continue to play the outside of the lanes.

I am pretty SURE TOO! I am just playing around with MIKE! Can't we just some times have a little fun, and not be so serious!!

Never Question The Great Rob!!!


(what movie was this line from)? replacing only the name rob with .......???

small hint: LOL

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab133/WhizFan/The%20WHIZ%20of%20OZ/WHIZOfOZ32.gif (http://media.photobucket.com/user/WhizFan/media/The%20WHIZ%20of%20OZ/WHIZOfOZ32.gif.html)

[striker12]

well reading it rob never said anything about revs it was someone who cant move in and open the lanes?

meaning someone that is not comfortable or does not know what that means


I use to play the outside with all the revs I have and it took me awhile to get use to moving in at this different bowling alley I did not want to play on the inside because I kept thinking the ball would never come back in.

[RobLV1]

Um Rob, I routinely resort to balls with very low friction covers.

Are you saying I can't move in and open up the lane?

No, Mike, you can definitely move in and open up the lane. Please let me explain why I made a general statement about most bowlers who resort to balls with low friction covers. I'll be as brief as I can, but I need to cover the bases for everyone.

First of all, most bowler's egos will not allow them to accurately evaluate their bowling styles. Most strokers really believe that they are tweeners, and most tweeners really believe that they are crankers. You also have the issue that most bowlers fall somewhere along the middle of the spectrum in terms of being balanced between speed and rev rate. Of those who are out of balance one way or the other, for every rev dominant player (such as yourself), there are 20 speed dominant players.

If you watch tapes of Jason Belmonte when he first started on the PBA Tour five or six years ago, he would often use a plastic ball for strikes in the TV finals. Now, you never see him use plastic or urethane for anything other than spare conversions. The reason is that he has learned to temper his rev dominance with speed and loft control so that he no longer needs to resort to throwing plastic at strikes.

I feel like I needed to explain this for the simple reason that rev dominant players are really pretty rare, and I was afraid that those who resort to low friction equipment out of a fear of leaving the comfort of the second arrow would rationalize that they, too, are rev dominant.

[foreverincamo]

I guess I opened a big can of worms, didn't I? All I asked was what balls people are using on drier conditions, or what they switch to when their shot dries up. I've seen people walk in dragging 6 to 9 balls for tournaments. Don't tell me they just pick one ball and keep moving left and open up the lane.
Yes, there are people who throw super-hooking equipment and loft the gutter cap to do so. I'm not wanting to do that- I'm too old for that. I keep moving left until I start leaving 10 pins, and then it's time to switch to something else that hooks less and carries the corner pin where I bowl in league .

[RobLV1]

I guess I opened a big can of worms, didn't I? All I asked was what balls people are using on drier conditions, or what they switch to when their shot dries up. I've seen people walk in dragging 6 to 9 balls for tournaments. Don't tell me they just pick one ball and keep moving left and open up the lane.
Yes, there are people who throw super-hooking equipment and loft the gutter cap to do so. I'm not wanting to do that- I'm too old for that. I keep moving left until I start leaving 10 pins, and then it's time to switch to something else that hooks less and carries the corner pin where I bowl in league .

You need to understand that there are numerous applications for ball change adjustments. The three most common are:

1. Bowlers choose to "ball down" in order to remain in their comfort zone around the second arrow.
2. High rev players often ball down as they move left to keep the ball tighter down the lane to keep from creating too much angle that will leave corner pins.
3. Lower rev players often go to more aggressive equipment as they move left to help them to "get the ball back" despite their limited rev rates.

[foreverincamo]

RobLV1, I do understand there are many reasons to change balls. I have always just owned one ball and had to make lane and hand adjustments to compensate for changing lane conditions. All I'm trying to find out is what balls other people are using when their lanes are set up dry or have burned up so I can look at the ball descriptions to see what commonalities they have to make an informed decision on my next ball.
Tonight over 7 games in practice I used my Mutiny Marauder and was throwing it from second arrow to outside of first arrow and pounding the pocket . So not a down and in night, but an effective shot tonight.

[RobLV1]

RobLV1, I do understand there are many reasons to change balls. I have always just owned one ball and had to make lane and hand adjustments to compensate for changing lane conditions. All I'm trying to find out is what balls other people are using when their lanes are set up dry or have burned up so I can look at the ball descriptions to see what commonalities they have to make an informed decision on my next ball.
Tonight over 7 games in practice I used my Mutiny Marauder and was throwing it from second arrow to outside of first arrow and pounding the pocket . So not a down and in night, but an effective shot tonight.

I understand what you are trying to do, and my reason for pointing out the different strategies involved is to help you to make the best choice based on YOUR needs, despite whatever well-meaning advice you get from others. Judging by your comment that playing the second arrow to outside of first arrow is "not a down and in" shot tells me that you don't hook the ball a whole lot, and most probably don't get to far left of the second arrow. If that is indeed the case, you'll need to find a ball with a higher rg (Maurader - 2.52), a lower diff. (Maurader - 0.050) and a symmetrical core (Maurader is asymmetrical). When you find such a ball, don't be afraid to play with the surface until you get just the reaction that you are looking for. This should allow you to stay on the same part of the lane throughout most league nights. Good luck.

[Mike White]

You need to understand that there are numerous applications for ball change adjustments. The three most common are:

1. Bowlers choose to "ball down" in order to remain in their comfort zone around the second arrow.
2. High rev players often ball down as they move left to keep the ball tighter down the lane to keep from creating too much angle that will leave corner pins.
3. Lower rev players often go to more aggressive equipment as they move left to help them to "get the ball back" despite their limited rev rates.

FYI in the case of #2, too much angle doesn't leave corner pins. Corner pins are from not enough angle.

Too much angle combined with a bit too much skid leaves things like 2-10, 2-8-10, 2-4-8-10, 1-2-4-6-10.

Too much angle combined with a bit too little skid leaves things like 3-4, 3-4-6-7, 3-4-6-7-10, 3-4-6-7-9-10.

[goneal32]

Motiv Ascent Apex. works for me.

[RobLV1]

Not going to get into it, Mike. I'm just telling you what many of the high rev guys have told me. As you can tell after having seen me bowl, how lanes affect high rev players is not something with which I have any personal experience.

[foreverincamo]

Thanks for everyone's help. I'll post what ball I end up getting.

[foreverincamo]

I got the Brunswick Ringer Platinum Pearl, 16#. I haven't had it drilled up yet, but will soon. I'll let everyone know what happens with it

[Ptnomore]

Im interested in this as well. House I bowl at is bone dry by mid second game. Older house with wood lanes scheduled for replacement with Synthetic "Next year", as we hear every year now for last 3 years. Lanes are conditioned before our set, but volume is ridiculously low. Completely burnt by mid second game. Moving left is the easy answer, but not when 9/10 bowlers on the set are chasing the same line (5-person team,mens league)

Last Season, I started the night with teh Motive Cruel Intent, and finished most with the Hammer Arson Hybrid or Hammer Nail SMoke and Fire.

This year, I'm starting with the Nail, and by end of second game, I'm throwing the Natural. I even tried a heavy polish with a slip agent on the Nail, but that doesn't last long at all. Got me further into 3rd game, but still had to finish with the Natural.

I've been throwing my old original Storm Natural with surface at 1000grit for the last few weeks and doing better with it than at the OOB 2000 grit. It makes an earlier move and hits harder (more drive, less slide) but it's still a struggle to make a 200+ game with it. I'm doing better with that than most guys throwing higher revs gutter to gutter. Consistency is key. I'ts forcing me to improve my accuracy which isn't a bad thing. No ball is going to give me back that room for error when the oil is gone, I know that.

But I'd like to have a ball with a different motion if one particular ball isn't working for me on a given night.

The Motive Ascent line is what I was looking at also, but was looking at the pearl.

Thanks.

[foreverincamo]

Finally got the Brunswick Ringer Platinum Pearl drilled last night. Lanes were perfect for trying out this ball. My league bowled on them the night before, and they hadn't been touched since. I threw my DV8 Marauder Mutiny over the 7th board and it hit the left side of the head pin....barely! Threw my new Ringer over the same spot and crushed the pocket. It looked like I was bowling on fresh oil. Now my next ball will be the Hammer Black Widow Legend for heavy oil and I'm done spending money on this sport this year.

[foreverincamo]

Got my Hammer Black Widow Legend, and have a DV8 Thug in transit that I'll get to unbox at Christmas.

[rv driver]

Im interested in this as well. House I bowl at is bone dry by mid second game. Older house with wood lanes scheduled for replacement with Synthetic "Next year", as we hear every year now for last 3 years. Lanes are conditioned before our set, but volume is ridiculously low. Completely burnt by mid second game. Moving left is the easy answer, but not when 9/10 bowlers on the set are chasing the same line (5-person team,mens league)

Last Season, I started the night with teh Motive Cruel Intent, and finished most with the Hammer Arson Hybrid or Hammer Nail SMoke and Fire.

This year, I'm starting with the Nail, and by end of second game, I'm throwing the Natural. I even tried a heavy polish with a slip agent on the Nail, but that doesn't last long at all. Got me further into 3rd game, but still had to finish with the Natural.

I've been throwing my old original Storm Natural with surface at 1000grit for the last few weeks and doing better with it than at the OOB 2000 grit. It makes an earlier move and hits harder (more drive, less slide) but it's still a struggle to make a 200+ game with it. I'm doing better with that than most guys throwing higher revs gutter to gutter. Consistency is key. I'ts forcing me to improve my accuracy which isn't a bad thing. No ball is going to give me back that room for error when the oil is gone, I know that.

But I'd like to have a ball with a different motion if one particular ball isn't working for me on a given night.

The Motive Ascent line is what I was looking at also, but was looking at the pearl.

Thanks.
Sounds like you either need a Tropical Breeze or a urethane if the wood lanes are bone dry.