Aslan's Latest Nerdy Activity: The 4-ball arsenal tiered selection system

[Aslan]

This weekend I totally re-did my ball wish list and corresponding arsenal breakdown. I decided to set up a 4-ball arsenal "criteria" to determine a good "mix" to have. In simpler terms; I set up 4 categories and ideally your 4-ball arsenal will have 1 ball that fits unanimously into that 1 tier/category.

Without getting into laborious detail (only to be mocked later for even developing something so silly), and with Mudpuppy Cliff Notes in mind, the categories take into account FIVE factors (no order of importance):
1) coverstock (pearl, hybrid, solid)
2) cover finish (500-4000 abralon, high polish, matte/sanded, etc...)
3) RG
4) differential
5) PerfectScale Rating (bowlingball.com system/hook rating)

Now, this may make Rob angry...but not only does it NOT take into account the core shape (symmetric/assymetric)...but it includes PerfectScale which ball spec purists despise. But let me explain why:

1) In putting my current arsenal together...I ignored PerfectScale and went strictly by the numbers. That didn't work. Not only did it not work...but when the progression was fixed...the progression followed PerfectScale exactly.

2) The Storm Optimus Paradox: This is why I didn't include cores into the equation. Because the core might change the angle...it may even change the timing of the different hook phases...it may even do more than that. But if a symmetric core Storm Optimus can be an ideal skid/flip ball...then a ball should be able to fit in any category despite it's core shape.

Now...concerning #2...obviously the core will change the path. Obviously the core effects the ball in multiple ways. I'm just saying when putting a 4-ball arsenal together...having 4 symmetrics or 2 of each or 1 symmetric/3 assymetrics....probably doesn't matter. The goal is to get balls that are different enough in the other areas where you'll have options (good options hopefully).

I won't go into the numbers...but essentially, the generic 4-ball arsenal consists of the following:

1) A heavy-medium oil condition "1st ball".
2) A medium oil ball-down option.
3) A medium/light oil ball for lanes that are very broken down or lighter oil or shorter patterns.
4) A long ball for very dry conditions or wood lanes. OR...a true skid/flip option with a high RG, high diff, high polish surface, pearl, strong cover, etc...

So, each variable (see list of 5 above) is given a range. If your value falls in that range...that is your tier/category. You assess all 5 variables and then look to see if the ball fits more into one category than the others. If it does...thats it's category. Once you have 4-balls, one for each category, you have an ideal arsenal. And if it actually works as designed (IF), your ball progression will be 1,2,3,4 (in most cases).

I'll address potential pitfalls/failures of the system in the following post.

[Aslan]

Potential Problems/Early Frustrations:

1) How "strong" a cover is...is essentially unknown.

Using my current arsenal as an example; The progression according to this system SHOULD have been Rhythm, Encounter, Bullet Train, Slingshot. But that was not the case because (according to the pro shop) S79 cover on the Bullet Train was much more aggressive than the Rhythm or Encounter. There's not really any good way to know or measure that. And thats where I rely on PerfectScale...because PerfectScale predicted the progression perfectly....which 'could' mean that PerfectScale factors in coverstock "strength" as part of it's calculation.

2) Tier/Category IV is confusing

Tier IV is kinda a carp shoot. I mean...it's an ideal tier for a low level pearl ball that goes very long and isn't that aggressive...for very dry or short conditions. BUT....it's also an ideal tier for a cutting edge technology skid/flip ball that goes very long and then bites hard with an angular backend. Two very different balls can fit in that same category. But...since I could only have 4-balls in this experiement...those two tiers had to be combined.

3) Category/Tier II was the rarest
Due to the initial values used...most balls fit into the Tier III level. There were also quite a few Tier I balls. Tier IV was harder because it's looking for something more specific. But Tier II was very hard to find balls that matched most of it's criteria. Thats 'probably' just a byproduct of some ranges being bigger than others.

4) In some cases the 5 variables would conflict with one another
For example....is a Pearl with a high RG a good "first ball"? It may have a very aggressive core and cover...but is it going to go too long on heavier conditions and not make that turn without an excessive rev rate? Likewise, is a solid cover ball going to make a good Tier III or IV ball? Isn't it going to bite too early on lighter/shorter conditions?

But...it was interesting. Rather than set a lot of "musts/must nots"...I allowed the balls to move into the different tiers as long as MOST of the variables pointed towards a tier. So rather than set a rule that a pearl can't be a tier I or II...the system would allow a pearl to be Tier I (or II) so long as the PerfecScale rating was high, the RG was low, and maybe the differential was high.

So...mudpuppy cliff noting....what did I personally determine based on this little exercise??

1) I think for arsenal #3 (mid/late-2016 debut), assuming I'm still bowling (haven't given up due to sucking badly) and assuming I haven't decided to switch to 15lbs (after trialing arsenal #2 (late 2015 debut)...that my RotoGrip Defiant Edge (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFg53h4bB_I) will make an adequate Tier I (first) ball. That will allow me a stronger ball to start with and allow me to move the Ebonite Warning Sign into the Tier III category where it's more suited.

2) I decided to get a DV8 Ruckus (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0t9QJ4A3LAs) on sale. I was holding off indefinitely on new ball purchases while I decide on the 15/16lb issue...but < $80 for a Ruckus is a great deal and I not only have never thrown a DV8 ball...but the Ruckus will be the highest PerfectScale rated ball > 230! that I've purchased.

But the Ruckus is a great example of one of the frustrations I had with this system. Is the DV8 Ruckus an ideal "first ball" (Tier I)? Or is it an ideal Tier IV skid/flip ball?? Lets look at the numbers:

RG: 2.592 (Thats high! Should go long.)
Finish: 500 (polished)

Diff.: 0.052 (Thats fairly high, should have a strong backend)
PerfecScale: > 230 (Thats very high! Lots of hook potential!)
Cover: Hybrid

Normally, a ball with that high of a PerfectScale rating...a hybrid or solid cover (causing it to hook sooner)...and a 500 finish (lots of oob surface)....thats a ball that is going to play well in heavy/medium oil. It's sales description even claims it is for medium/heavy conditions. HOWEVER...if I'm looking for a perfect skid/flip ball....here's a ball with a high RG that is polished...designed to go long...and it has a very aggressive cover/PS/diff....so this could be an ideal skid/flip Tier IV ball.

So as I'm sure the experts would contend...this system is a loose guide at best. I'd say it'd work well for a newer player...getting into their first real "arsenal" and just looking for a playable combination...assuming the person has relatively little brand loyalty and wants to try different things.

[Amyers]

Potential Problems/Early Frustrations:

1) How "strong" a cover is...is essentially unknown.

Using my current arsenal as an example; The progression according to this system SHOULD have been Rhythm, Encounter, Bullet Train, Slingshot. But that was not the case because (according to the pro shop) S79 cover on the Bullet Train was much more aggressive than the Rhythm or Encounter. There's not really any good way to know or measure that. And thats where I rely on PerfectScale...because PerfectScale predicted the progression perfectly....which 'could' mean that PerfectScale factors in coverstock "strength" as part of it's calculation.

2) Tier/Category IV is confusing

Tier IV is kinda a carp shoot. I mean...it's an ideal tier for a low level pearl ball that goes very long and isn't that aggressive...for very dry or short conditions. BUT....it's also an ideal tier for a cutting edge technology skid/flip ball that goes very long and then bites hard with an angular backend. Two very different balls can fit in that same category. But...since I could only have 4-balls in this experiement...those two tiers had to be combined.

3) Category/Tier II was the rarest
Due to the initial values used...most balls fit into the Tier III level. There were also quite a few Tier I balls. Tier IV was harder because it's looking for something more specific. But Tier II was very hard to find balls that matched most of it's criteria. Thats 'probably' just a byproduct of some ranges being bigger than others.

4) In some cases the 5 variables would conflict with one another
For example....is a Pearl with a high RG a good "first ball"? It may have a very aggressive core and cover...but is it going to go too long on heavier conditions and not make that turn without an excessive rev rate? Likewise, is a solid cover ball going to make a good Tier III or IV ball? Isn't it going to bite too early on lighter/shorter conditions?

But...it was interesting. Rather than set a lot of "musts/must nots"...I allowed the balls to move into the different tiers as long as MOST of the variables pointed towards a tier. So rather than set a rule that a pearl can't be a tier I or II...the system would allow a pearl to be Tier I (or II) so long as the PerfecScale rating was high, the RG was low, and maybe the differential was high.

So...mudpuppy cliff noting....what did I personally determine based on this little exercise??

1) I think for arsenal #3 (mid/late-2016 debut), assuming I'm still bowling (haven't given up due to sucking badly) and assuming I haven't decided to switch to 15lbs (after trialing arsenal #2 (late 2015 debut)...that my RotoGrip Defiant Edge (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFg53h4bB_I) will make an adequate Tier I (first) ball. That will allow me a stronger ball to start with and allow me to move the Ebonite Warning Sign into the Tier III category where it's more suited.

2) I decided to get a DV8 Ruckus (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0t9QJ4A3LAs) on sale. I was holding off indefinitely on new ball purchases while I decide on the 15/16lb issue...but < $80 for a Ruckus is a great deal and I not only have never thrown a DV8 ball...but the Ruckus will be the highest PerfectScale rated ball > 230! that I've purchased.

But the Ruckus is a great example of one of the frustrations I had with this system. Is the DV8 Ruckus an ideal "first ball" (Tier I)? Or is it an ideal Tier IV skid/flip ball?? Lets look at the numbers:

RG: 2.592 (Thats high! Should go long.)
Finish: 500 (polished)

Diff.: 0.052 (Thats fairly high, should have a strong backend)
PerfecScale: > 230 (Thats very high! Lots of hook potential!)
Cover: Hybrid

Normally, a ball with that high of a PerfectScale rating...a hybrid or solid cover (causing it to hook sooner)...and a 500 finish (lots of oob surface)....thats a ball that is going to play well in heavy/medium oil. It's sales description even claims it is for medium/heavy conditions. HOWEVER...if I'm looking for a perfect skid/flip ball....here's a ball with a high RG that is polished...designed to go long...and it has a very aggressive cover/PS/diff....so this could be an ideal skid/flip Tier IV ball.

So as I'm sure the experts would contend...this system is a loose guide at best. I'd say it'd work well for a newer player...getting into their first real "arsenal" and just looking for a playable combination...assuming the person has relatively little brand loyalty and wants to try different things.

As usual your perceptions are overly clouded by numbers and what's on the manufactures websites rather than real world observation. I applaud what you tried to do here but some of your calculations are just off in my opinion others may disagree. Most bowlers don't want to start off with a pearl go long type of ball on heavy or medium heavy oil more of a solid hybrid with some surface to help prevent over under reactions.

The Defiant Edge would fit well as your class 4 skid flip pearl ball I know medium rg on that one but with it being a pearl and polished it will get down the lane similar to the Optimus.

The Ruckus is actually a type 2 ball not 1 or 4. The Ruckus does have a high rg but it is rubbing compound on it not polished which leaves a surface closer to 3k to 4k this ball is very similar to my asylum I have lots of friends who use this ball and it rolls very close to my Asylum. You could take the surface on this down to 2000 and it will make a serviceable type 1 ball also.

The Warning Sign is very similar to the Ruckus also not much difference between them

Generally I agree with some of your divisions here but think more along on these lines:

Type 1- Heavy oil medium/heavy oil should have some surface think Radical Guru, Hammer Bad Intentions, Roto Grip Hyper Cell (if you have the oil to need any of these)

Type 2- Decision time either a slightly weaker cover higher rg to keep the same line like the Asylum, Ruckus, or Hammer Bad A$$ or go polished skid flip Defiant Edge, Crux Pearl, or Hyper Cell Skid type balls depending on what you like.

Type 3- Control piece something to use when the reaction is out of control IQ tour or Fusion, Melee, Hooligan, or Sigma Sting. Typically medium rg lower differential say .35 to .45

Type 4- Low oil broken down Rotogrip scream, rumble, outcry Storm Punch Out Lights Out DV8 Outcast balls like your slingshot.

[RobLV1]

I read up to the part about making me angry and got a headache!

[Amyers]

I read up to the part about making me angry and got a headache!

I'm impressed you made it that far

[bowl1820]

This weekend I totally re-did my ball wish list and corresponding arsenal breakdown. I decided to set up a 4-ball arsenal "criteria" to determine a good "mix" to have. In simpler terms; I set up 4 categories and ideally your 4-ball arsenal will have 1 ball that fits unanimously into that 1 tier/category.

Without getting into laborious detail (only to be mocked later for even developing something so silly), and with Mudpuppy Cliff Notes in mind, the categories take into account FIVE factors (no order of importance):
1) coverstock (pearl, hybrid, solid)
2) cover finish (500-4000 abralon, high polish, matte/sanded, etc...)
3) RG
4) differential
5) PerfectScale Rating (bowlingball.com system/hook rating)



TLDR

Just For comparison purposes.

Revolutions 2- The Changing Game
Chapter 8: Play Ball! Choosing Starting Equipment Lineup.

The Classic Players Arsenal:
Ball #1
Reactive with Lower RG and Fairly High differential (Mainly for heavier oil conditions)

Ball#2
Reactive with a medium to low RG and lower differential (benchmark ball/ medium conditions)

Ball#3
Polished/Pearl reactive with a medium to high RG and medium differential (medium to dry conditions)

Ball#4
Polyester (Plastic) Ball (Mainly spare shooting)
and/or
Optional Reactive/Urethane with a High RG and Low differential for dry conditions.


-------------


Note:
The PerfectScale Rating system can be misleading.

If your going to designate a "1st Ball" use a benchmark ball, so you can get a read on the lanes. So you know which ball to actually start with.

Best option on surfaces is to Adjust surface textures as needed during practice/warmup.

[Aslan]

Generally I agree with some of your divisions here but think more along on these lines:

Type 1- Heavy oil medium/heavy oil should have some surface think Radical Guru, Hammer Bad Intentions, Roto Grip Hyper Cell (if you have the oil to need any of these)

Type 2- Decision time either a slightly weaker cover higher rg to keep the same line like the Asylum, Ruckus, or Hammer Bad A$$ or go polished skid flip Defiant Edge, Crux Pearl, or Hyper Cell Skid type balls depending on what you like.

Type 3- Control piece something to use when the reaction is out of control IQ tour or Fusion, Melee, Hooligan, or Sigma Sting. Typically medium rg lower differential say .35 to .45

Type 4- Low oil broken down Rotogrip scream, rumble, outcry Storm Punch Out Lights Out DV8 Outcast balls like your slingshot.

Amyers-
The issue I have with your system (above) is that it makes determinations almost void of numbers. It's like the opposite of my system. Mine relies totally on numbers until you get to a tie (2/5 tier X and 2/5 Tier Y and 1/5 Tier Z). Your system simply says the 1st ball should be whatever is believed to be strongest, then next strongest, then a weak ball, then a weaker ball. And based on your examples...it sorta goes along with cost...which could be another way of measuring coverstock strength since generally the higher cost balls will have more aggressive covers.

Obvously the ideal way to determine an ideal arsenal is to go to some ball demo and throw every ball imaginable and then keep track of break points and ball paths and determine the best 4-ball combo. But that scenario is highly unlikely for non-pros, non-pro shop operators, etc... In my scenario, we have to put together an arsenal before throwing any shots with the balls. So we have to go by "something" and numbers/ball specs are all we have unless we insert bias such as the "belief" that the manufacturers are giving us straight information and/or the belief that the more expensive the ball, the sooner it'll hook.


TLDR

Just For comparison purposes.

Revolutions 2- The Changing Game
Chapter 8: Play Ball! Choosing Starting Equipment Lineup.

The Classic Players Arsenal:
Ball #1
Reactive with Lower RG and Fairly High differential (Mainly for heavier oil conditions)
That fits my definition of Tier I exactly except I add 3 more criteria:
- 0-2000 abralon/matte/sanded finish
- PerfectScale value >221
- a solid cover

Remember...you only need 3/5 to match to be Tier I. And if 2/5 match, and there's a tie...it could still be determined to most closely match a Tier I.


Ball#2
Reactive with a medium to low RG and lower differential (benchmark ball/ medium conditions)
Again, similar to my system. A slightly higher RG in the 2.49-2.52 range, a differential of 0.051 or 0.052, a hybrid or a solid, PerfectScale of maybe > 209, and a finish in the 1000-2500 range.

But for me, Ball #2 isn't really a "benchmark ball"...it's my ball down option from #1. I'm going to still want this to be a very aggressive ball because it'll get some use on fresh conditions.


Ball#3
Polished/Pearl reactive with a medium to high RG and medium differential (medium to dry conditions)
Again, very similar to my system. Tier III could be a hybrid or pearl. Finish of 1500-5000. 2.52-2.53 RG. A diff. in the 0.050-0.051 range. And a PerfectScale value < 209. This is my broadest "catch-all" type of range so most miid-low range balls are going to fit into Tier III. To me, this isn't a ball you would normally use on fresh conditions unless it's wood lanes and/or a very short pattern.



Ball#4
Polyester (Plastic) Ball (Mainly spare shooting)
and/or
Optional Reactive/Urethane with a High RG and Low differential for dry conditions.
See, this is a bit different than my Tier IV because I didn't count a spare ball as part of the arsenal. For me a Tier IV ball is either a very low level reactive for when drier lanes break down...something like a Slingshot, or a Strike King, or maybe a Cyclone....a Freeze, a Mix, a Track 300A...pretty much most lowest level reactives. OR...and this is why Tier IV is confusing (even to me)...it could be a "skid/flip" spot where you're going to slot a ball like the Fortera Exile or the Strom Optimus. A ball that is designed to go long...but has the coverstock strength to back a cut back into the pocket.


-------------



Note:
The PerfectScale Rating system can be misleading.

If your going to designate a "1st Ball" use a benchmark ball, so you can get a read on the lanes. So you know which ball to actually start with.

Best option on surfaces is to Adjust surface textures as needed during practice/warmup.
I realize the PerfectScale rating is misleading...but I'm only using it as 1/5 of the evaluation. And as I said...it remarkably does a better job of predicting when a ball is going to hook than simply going my hybrid versus solid versus pearl....I think because it factors in the actual strength of the cover material...but I'm guessing at that.

As to the "Benchmark" system...I used to use that system (at least...a more complicated version of it). I'd start with my "medium/middle" ball (of 5) and then see if I needed something stronger or not as strong. This system was temporarily abandoned because it just got too confusing. In trying out different lines...I found that which line you play impacted which ball was the "middle ball". Not to mention I was throwing the Encounters a lot in practice...using that as my "benchmark" in most cases....and I suck at throwing that ball...so my practice time was not helping much.

I still think there's theoretically merit in that system...I DO like that it gives you ball up and ball down options...but in a 15-minute practice with 10 people throwing balls on the pair...I just didn't have the time to try more than the Benchmark ball(s) on each line...and then I was just "hoping" I made the right choice as Game 1 was starting...often times it was not the right choice. Sometimes I'd need 2 balls stronger rather than 1 ball stronger. Or sometimes I'd pull the shots in practice...then use the Benchmark ball in Game 1 only to find out when released properly it's way too weak.

So thats when the coach looked at my elaborate creation and said, "lets simplify this a bit..." and thus "Aslan's Benchmark Ball Selection Chart" was mothballed in favor of just strating with the ball that hooks the soonest and going from there....which honestly has worked better. :o


Generally I agree with some of your divisions here but think more along on these lines:

Type 1- Heavy oil medium/heavy oil should have some surface think Radical Guru, Hammer Bad Intentions, Roto Grip Hyper Cell (if you have the oil to need any of these)

Type 2- Decision time either a slightly weaker cover higher rg to keep the same line like the Asylum, Ruckus, or Hammer Bad A$$ or go polished skid flip Defiant Edge, Crux Pearl, or Hyper Cell Skid type balls depending on what you like.

Type 3- Control piece something to use when the reaction is out of control IQ tour or Fusion, Melee, Hooligan, or Sigma Sting. Typically medium rg lower differential say .35 to .45

Type 4- Low oil broken down Rotogrip scream, rumble, outcry Storm Punch Out Lights Out DV8 Outcast balls like your slingshot.


I won't go into the numbers...but essentially, the generic 4-ball arsenal consists of the following:

1) A heavy-medium oil condition "1st ball".
2) A medium oil ball-down option.
3) A medium/light oil ball for lanes that are very broken down or lighter oil or shorter patterns.
4) A long ball for very dry conditions or wood lanes. OR...a true skid/flip option with a high RG, high diff, high polish surface, pearl, strong cover, etc...

.

[Aslan]

The Defiant Edge would fit well as your class 4 skid flip pearl ball I know medium rg on that one but with it being a pearl and polished it will get down the lane similar to the Optimus.

The Ruckus is actually a type 2 ball not 1 or 4. The Ruckus does have a high rg but it is rubbing compound on it not polished which leaves a surface closer to 3k to 4k this ball is very similar to my asylum I have lots of friends who use this ball and it rolls very close to my Asylum. You could take the surface on this down to 2000 and it will make a serviceable type 1 ball also.

The Warning Sign is very similar to the Ruckus also not much difference between them


Lets look at the numbers:

RotoGrip Defiant Edge: Pearl, RG = 2.49, Diff. = 0.054, Finish = 1500 polished, PerfectScale = 229.

DV8 Ruckus: Hybrid, RG = 2.540, Diff. = 0.052, Finish = 500 (royal compound). PerfectScale = 231.

Ebonite Warning Sign: Hybrid, RG = 2.49, Diff. = 0.046, Finish = 3000 (sanded), PerfectScale = 189.

So judging by the low RG and high differential and high PerfectScale rating with a finish < 2000...the Defiant Edge would qualify as Tier I despite it being a Pearl...which I agree is not ideal. Could it qualify as "skid/flip"? Well...sure. You could polish it up to get maximum length, it should be aggressive enough to make the turn...and despite it's RG and Diff....it's a Pearl so it should go sorta long. I just don't think with that low of an RG...it just seems like the Pearl cover and low RG core would be acting against each other in that scenario.

The Ruckus on the other hand...is similar to the RG DE in terms of PerfectScale...it has a strong hybrid cover...and if you take some of that polish off of it...you could have a very strong Tier I ball. I can't really argue with Tier II either if you manipulate the surface just a bit. But it also makes an intriguing "skid/flip" candidate because it has a very high RG and a finish that is often associated with "skid/flip" balls in the Brunswick line. A pearl would be ideal...but I think with a little finish and drilling help...all the numbers point to a possible skid/flip ball.

The Warning Sign, my friend, is NOTHING like the Ruckus. It's RG is far lower...it's Diff. is much weaker....it's ootb finish is completely different....and it's PerfectScale rating is embarassingly low. That means it's only common denominator with the Ruckus is that it is a hybrid cover. The Warning sign is actually a PERFECT example of a Tier III ball. The RG is a bit low for Tier III and the Diff. a bit too low as well...but the only other Tier this could realistically fit into is Tier II and you really add some surface to it.

Now I know people talk about changing the surface (so why is surface a factor in the calculation?). And with symmetric core balls I think thats a more successful proposition. But from my limited experience with assymetric core balls (all 3 above are assymetric cores), I've found that adding surface tends to negate the advantages of an assymetric core to at least a degree. If an assymetric core allows a ball to rev up and release energy in a more angular fashion (among other things)...then adding a ton of surface means you're going to try to get it to make that move sooner...but then it doesn't save up as much energy. You could end up throwing a good ball only to have it die out prematurely. I think (theory) thats less of a problem with a symmetric core designed for a smooth arc...sanding it just makes it start the arc sooner. Thats all theory/talking points at this point though.

[Amyers]

Amyers-
The issue I have with your system (above) is that it makes determinations almost void of numbers. It's like the opposite of my system. Mine relies totally on numbers until you get to a tie (2/5 tier X and 2/5 Tier Y and 1/5 Tier Z). Your system simply says the 1st ball should be whatever is believed to be strongest, then next strongest, then a weak ball, then a weaker ball. And based on your examples...it sorta goes along with cost...which could be another way of measuring coverstock strength since generally the higher cost balls will have more aggressive covers.

Obvously the ideal way to determine an ideal arsenal is to go to some ball demo and throw every ball imaginable and then keep track of break points and ball paths and determine the best 4-ball combo. But that scenario is highly unlikely for non-pros, non-pro shop operators, etc... In my scenario, we have to put together an arsenal before throwing any shots with the balls. So we have to go by "something" and numbers/ball specs are all we have unless we insert bias such as the "belief" that the manufacturers are giving us straight information and/or the belief that the more expensive the ball, the sooner it'll hook.



Yes my system does use less numbers than yours but it does make practical sense and actually works where there were already at least three major flaws in your arsenal just to start. Personal preference does play a role in ball selection. Your only talking a four ball line up here and you were the one that proposed carrying a heavy/medium heavy oil ball if you do that you are going to limit yourself your not going to carry three different medium balls to play different shot shapes. From your proposed tiers you are trying to cover as many conditions as possible not necessarily optimize your options for a particular shot.

Myself I wouldn't carry a heavy /medium heavy ball unless I was bowling somewhere that I didn't know the conditions or knew I would need it. Only one house in my area puts oil out like that and even then only for tournaments. So yes my line up is a progression from strong to weak but that was pretty much what you designed with your tiers. For my normal use I would pitch out the heavier oil ball and carry either a more skid flip piece or a step down from my starting ball in addition whichever I didn't already have in the bag.

As far as cost goes it is an indicator but again flawed why I didn't mention it. In my proposed line up the Bad A$$ cost more than any of the other balls listed there from what I've seen (other than the Bad Intentions) but is in tier 2 the IQ Tour/Fusion costs more than an asylum or Rukus but is tier 3. Now most tier 4 balls will be less expensive but so far the manufactures haven't figure out a good way to make us pay more for light oil balls but eventually someone will do it.

The biggest things I see with your proposed arsenal are:

1. Starting out with a skid flip pearl (Defiant Edge) on fresh heavy to medium/heavy conditions is not how I see most successful bowlers function (there are exceptions). Most will start off with a more surfaced ball and move in and swing it with a more pearlized ball after the transition or just use a weaker ball and play the same line. Not saying you have too it's just what I observe from watching other highly successful bowlers.

2. The Ruckus I have quite a bit of experience watching different people use and in its OOB finish plays just like my Asylum which is neither a true heavy oil ball or skid flip so it just doesn't work the way you were suggesting it. I know DV8 characterizes that ball as skid/flip on their website but unless you've got ridiculous revs it just doesn't perform that way.

3. The Warning Sign it extremely similar to the Rukus you really don't need both in your bag.

As far as my tiers go I wouldn't probably carry that exact bag anywhere unless I didn't know what the conditions were going to be. My local alleys Dunbar Lanes is more medium I could throw any of those balls there but at Venture I could throw 15 games on the same set and never need a light oil ball I'd leave it at home and bring a different shot shape ball if it was that important to me. At Galaxy lanes I don't need an Heavy oil ball period switch it out for another lighter piece.

In truth for leagues I could be perfectly content at any of the houses I bowl at with my asylum and a less aggressive ball. For tournaments sometimes I need that more aggressive ball to help get the turn I need
In all honesty even though I bowl in three different houses if I didn't bowl the occasional tournament I would only have two balls plus my spare just makes life too complicated, offers a crutch for substandard performance, and really goes above where you and I are as bowlers at the moment

[fortheloveofbowling]

How do your drilling layouts factor in?

[Aslan]

How do your drilling layouts factor in?


From your proposed tiers you are trying to cover as many conditions as possible not necessarily optimize your options for a particular shot.
Correct!! Unlike the pros...us amateurs are limited to how many different balls and finishes and layouts we can routeinly carry around with us. And this is where the system may work well for some and not others. I bowl in many different centers...I try to do tournaments here and there...I bowl in Vegas twice a year or more. So for ME...I NEED an arsenal that can cover as many conditions as I'm likely to see...but it can't be an endless arsenal of 25 different balls...each dedicated to a certain center or certain shot or certain lane.



As far as cost goes it is an indicator but again flawed why I didn't mention it. In my proposed line up the Bad A$$ cost more than any of the other balls listed there from what I've seen (other than the Bad Intentions) but is in tier 2 the IQ Tour/Fusion costs more than an asylum or Rukus but is tier 3. Now most tier 4 balls will be less expensive but so far the manufactures haven't figure out a good way to make us pay more for light oil balls but eventually someone will do it.
From what I saw when I evaluated about 60 balls on my wish list was that in GENERAL...the higher priced balls and new releases were more likely to fall in Tiers I, IV, or possibly II. The lower priced balls were almost always in Tiers III or IV. Especially when you're talking Storm or RotoGrip...where they have their mid-performance or HPII lines....those balls virtually all fell into Tier III.

And actually, its kinda a good system to evaluate whether a ball is "worth the price" because if you have a ball like....I don't have my list in front of me...but lets say an IQ Fusion or Hy Road Pearl or something along those lines. Those balls will have a hefty price tag when first released...yet the numbers don't dictate that they'll be any more effective than many other Tier III balls available for much less $$$. Or you may see a ball like the Storm BYTE and it (back in the day) was a pricey ball...but you look at the numbers and maybe it falls into Tier II...and maybe you take that into consideration because maybe there are cheaper options that give the same performance. But I'd have to have the list in front of me to really give examples.


The biggest things I see with your proposed arsenal are:

1. Starting out with a skid flip pearl (Defiant Edge) on fresh heavy to medium/heavy conditions is not how I see most successful bowlers function (there are exceptions). Most will start off with a more surfaced ball and move in and swing it with a more pearlized ball after the transition or just use a weaker ball and play the same line. Not saying you have too it's just what I observe from watching other highly successful bowlers.
It'll be an interesting ball to try. I tried to make the Encounters my "Tier I" balls and the pearl coverstock just made the balls go too long to be effective in that role...and actually they got bumped all the way back to Tier III. The Defiant Edge may suffer the same fate if after drilling it is going too long. The SYSTEM only helps with selection...you still have to practice and throw shots to figure out EXACTLY what ball does what and where to use it.


2. The Ruckus I have quite a bit of experience watching different people use and in its OOB finish plays just like my Asylum which is neither a true heavy oil ball or skid flip so it just doesn't work the way you were suggesting it. I know DV8 characterizes that ball as skid/flip on their website but unless you've got ridiculous revs it just doesn't perform that way.
Well, wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer stretched the truth about a ball's capabilities...but going strictly by the numbers...the Ruckus is a much stronger ball (overall) than the Asylum.


3. The Warning Sign it extremely similar to the Rukus you really don't need both in your bag.
I don't understand how you came up with this other than them both having assymetric cores and hybrid covers. The balls have completely different numbers. "Could" they end up behaving similar?? Sure.
1) It's probably possible through drilling and surfacing to bring the balls closer together in performance and nullify the numbers.
2) The Ruckus is a bit newer than the Warning Sign so it's possible that the WS technology makes it weaker...perhaps nullifying some of it's number differences. For example...maybe despite the low RG....the cover doesn't bite as much and it goes as long as the Ruckus. Unlikely...but possible.


As far as my tiers go I wouldn't probably carry that exact bag anywhere unless I didn't know what the conditions were going to be. My local alleys Dunbar Lanes is more medium I could throw any of those balls there but at Venture I could throw 15 games on the same set and never need a light oil ball I'd leave it at home and bring a different shot shape ball if it was that important to me. At Galaxy lanes I don't need an Heavy oil ball period switch it out for another lighter piece.
But doesn't that contradict the concept/idea that variances exist not only from house to house...but lane pair to lane pair or even lane to lane?? I rarely need my Tier III balls...and very, very, very rarely need my Tier IV ball (now that wood lanes are gone). But...last night I ended the night throwing my Tier III balls...because I was bowling on the pair closest to the doors to the center and lanes were hooking way, way, way more than usual. Had I just brought the 3 balls I usually need (Tier I, Tier II, and spare)...I'd have had to do some things I really don't like to do...like change speeds.

And honestly, after doing the project...my current arsenal is flawed (according to that system) because the Bullet Train is a Tier III but the Encounters and Rhythm are Tier II. Yet, the Tier III (by the numbers) is erving as my Tier I ball and my Tier II (by the numbers) Encounters are serving as Tier III balls...because I don't have the rev rate to get them to make the turn on medium oil or heavy.

Another theory is that nothing really matters in terms of specs except the coverstock and surface. Obviously as a numbers guy...that would be disappointing if true. And most modern bowling guys and pro shop operators would likely object...as would the ball engineers...yet tests have shown that things like coverstock, surface, and hand-fit...make noticeable differences even at lower levels. I've not seen any actual testing that shows amateurs (underlined for a reason) will see a difference when you change variables such as core or drilling. IF....IF thats the case....then an ideal arsenal is easy...you start with a solid...you ball down to a hybrid....then down to a pearl. You wanna get 'fancy'? Then have 6 balls...3 assymetric and 3 symmetric cores. Bamm...you've covered every base. But I really struggle with the concept that the entire bowling industry has kept us believing that specs are important while secretly only the covers really matter.


How do your drilling layouts factor in?

Short Answer: They don't because drilling layout differences actually effect amateur level player's ball movements so minimally that it's practically a non-factor. See "Encounter Project" in Aslan's videos.

Longer Answer: They DO factor in because once you design your arsenal and make your ball selections...you can then get the pro shop operator/ball driller to drill those balls in a way that optimizes where you have them positioned. For example;

In my next arsenal I have a "poor man's skid/flip" ball in Tier IV...the Brunswick Loaded Revolver. It's replacing the Slingshot...which it is more aggressive than. But it's not at the technological level of a true modern skid/flip ball. So my instructions to the ball driller will be to drill it as "skid/flip as possible" and then give it a high polish finish. So in that case, I'm taking a Tier IV ball and using the drilling/layouts to maximize it. The same can be said for the Defiant Edge of arsenal #3 (future). It fits into Tier I...it has the aggressiveness needed...but the drilling/layout will need to nullify the pearl coverstock as much as possible so that ball isn't going too long.

[JJKinGA]

Rather than the perfect scale to account for coverstock friction, I think you may want to look at BTM's length rating which is designed to provide spearation between the bowling balls and give an idea of the amount of friction. BJI has a similar rating but BTM has been very transparent about how it is measured and it should be pretty consistent. It tracks very well to how they rate the balls for a given amount of oil (longer is higher rated on dry, shorter rates better on heavy). I haven't found that the torque, back end or hook ratings are that useful to me. Perhaps because those properties are more drilling depedant.