Bowling Ball Speed?

[Amyers]

I seem to have reached a plateau in my game and feel that low ball speed seems to be a issue for me. At my former house we didn't have speed monitors so I really never knew what the ball speeds were but I did realize that mine appeared to be slower than a lot of other bowlers. When that center closed two of three other centers that we bowl at mostly have speed monitors. I have to say I was shocked by what I found out and have been looking for solutions ever since.

From what I have seen in the house where I bowl my summer leagues most of the successful male bowlers average between 14-16 mph.. My wife in this house averages about 14.5 with 14lbs. balls, my 14 yr. old daughter was at 17mph. (with 10 lbs. equipment) now at 13 with 13 lbs. equipment. My youngest seems to have a lot of variation but she's anywhere from 9.5-13 mph with 10 lbs. equipment. I look up and me I'm anywhere from 10.5-11 mph most of the time hits in the low 12's on a good day. with my 15 lbs. equipment. From what I've been told you add 1.5-1.75 miles for your off hand speed to these monitors by the pro shop owner.

Needless to say I was shocked that my ball speed is as low or lower :mad: than a lot of seniors but it does explain some of the issues that I have with carry. It also explains why I struggle immensely if the lanes are dry especially in this wooden lane house. The PSO has told me low ball speed and medium revs doesn't mix well with dryer conditions.

At first I thought it was a timing issue worked on that now I can post just about every shot on series. No change in speed. I've raised the ball height that I hold the ball made a very small increase but not much and can't really get higher without it being ridiculous. My foot speed seems normal to slightly fast not the issue. I thought it might help if I had more slide I wasn't a planter but I had a very short slide so I changed to an S10 sole form an S8 on my shoes this actually reduced my speed some at first had issues with sliding on my third step so had to think about putting the heel down first more mostly have that fixed now and very little change there if any.

So running out of options I decided try out one of the wife's 14 lbs. that she didn't like had the PSO plug it and redrill to fit my hand. I bowled 4 games with it last night:

Game 1- averaged about 10.5 mph. threw a 167
Game 2- the first 3 frames were again in the high 10's I was frustrated and ready to give it up as a lost cause then ran off 7 consecutive strikes all with speeds from 12.5-12.8 (all on shots that missed inside by 2-3 boards) ended with a 227
Game 3- speeds between 11-11.75 206
Game 4- pretty much the same speed line was fading out and couldn't seem to get an adjustment to consistently strike 192
Game 5- decided to experiment with trying to get a higher back swing this did seem to raise the speeds 12.5-12.9 but resulted in pulls of the ball to the inside by 3-5 boards 190

So I'm not sure if the lighter ball helped any or not I'll experiment with it some more but I did learn that ball weight is not the cause of the main issue. I do know that trying to compete when your throw with 25-30% less power than everyone else sucks.

[Aslan]

My 1.9 cents:

The good news is, if you're thinking about ball speed...then your game and fundamentals are probably good because ball speed is usually one of the last things a bowler truly masters (shot to shot). Of matter of fact, and coaches feel free to disagree, but developing a game with different ball speeds depending on conditions is usually one of the last things even an elite bowler masters.

My initial reaction to your post is that because of your loft...you're losing velocity. If you think of it in terms of a bow and arrow. If you want to hit a target out of range...you can aim more upwards...more of an ark...BUT....the arrow loses some of it's power the further away the target. Same thing with baseball...a pitcher throws the ball 91mph from the mound to home plate....straight line to the glove (essentially for a fastball). But an outfielder has to reach home plate from 350 yards...so he doesn't just throw it in a straight line...and the ball doesn't go 91mph.

I can't really answer most of your questions because I'm struggling with the same thing. But for me, I'm a little ahead of you because my speed ranges from 14.7-18. So for me, I'm usually one of the higher ball speeds of higher average bowlers in my leagues...but for me, I know that if I want to get to the next level, I need to be able to develop enough revs to get that speed up to 19-21.

It's funny that you mentioned this today...because last night...my favorite elderly teammate (See: I'm never helping old people again thread) was again carrying on and on and on about how one of his balls will stay right of the headpin. Granted...he's an idiot and REFUSES to change his line....he just switches balls constantly...but that's a different topic. The point is, his ball speed is 8-11.5. He's older, the strength just isn't there...and because of the low ball speed...the only balls that will actually work (on the line he insists on playing) are urethane and plastic....and even those tend to go through the head. My former teammate...a little Asian lady...same thing. Older, previously injured shoulder, throws in the 6-9mph range...same thing. If she left a 7-pin (shes a lefty)...she literally couldn't hit it.

The trouble (for you) in increasing ball speed is you'll likely have to lose the loft. I used to loft AND throw 19mph....and the revs needed to get back to the pocket....I just didn't have it. So...a LOT of 1-2-8s. But, a couple years later...a better release, less loft, less muscling...and the speed is 14-18mph...but I still careful. Usually that first game...I'm fresh and anxious and excited...so I'm throwing nearly 18mph...but if I don't pay attention to my release...the ball will miss right or hit light...

I guess I can only give the standard boring advice that seeing a coach about it might be a good idea. Maybe a coach can give you some hints on increasing speed. I tried the same thing you tried...a higher backswing...but my coach didn't like that because it completely screwed up my timing (as you found out). But before you get even lighter equipment...maybe there's a way to change your approach (starting further back, going to a 5 or 6 step, etc...) that will help.

[Tony]

I bowl with a guy who throws at lower speeds like that and he's about 50, uses a 3 step approach and starts with the ball at his waist. He is also a small guy maybe 5' 4" or so.
He was going to coach shockley for a session, I'll find out what he told him, maybe it could also help you.

Maybe a video would let some of the expert analysts here on the site see something that would help?

[Aslan]

Maybe a video would let some of the expert analysts here on the site see something that would help?

Assuming we had any expert analysts. Our analysts are more like the characters in those Holiday Inn Express commercials.

"I'm not actually a Silver Level coach...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night."

[Amyers]

I bowl with a guy who throws at lower speeds like that and he's about 50, uses a 3 step approach and starts with the ball at his waist. He is also a small guy maybe 5' 4" or so.
He was going to coach shockley for a session, I'll find out what he told him, maybe it could also help you.

Maybe a video would let some of the expert analysts here on the site see something that would help?

I'm 5'10" and use a 5 step so it's not small stature. Their are some older videos of me bowling on the site but I haven't made any recently.

[Amyers]

My 1.9 cents:

I guess I can only give the standard boring advice that seeing a coach about it might be a good idea. Maybe a coach can give you some hints on increasing speed. I tried the same thing you tried...a higher backswing...but my coach didn't like that because it completely screwed up my timing (as you found out). But before you get even lighter equipment...maybe there's a way to change your approach (starting further back, going to a 5 or 6 step, etc...) that will help.

Seeing a coach is mostly off due to the fact they don't exist here. I had considered going to Cincinnati to see one but a 3 1/2 hour drive each way just doesn't fit into the work schedules at the moment
Actually the higher loft is mostly gone now. With changing to the wood lanes I've had to use less wrist cup and more of an up the back of the ball release to keep it on the lane. I'm not one of those guys who it looks like sits the ball down on the lane then releases (can't get that low) but their is no longer any upward movement of the ball.

I agree on the higher backswing but it is one of the only reasons I have been given for the low ball speed from any of the PSO's I've worked with. It does throw the timing off when I try to extend it most likely reason for the pulled shots. I don't know if it's worth messing with or not.

I tend to think their must be something majorly wrong for me to be at 10-11 mph when everybody else on the planet seems to be able to hit 15 at least but no one seems to be able to tell me what.

[bowl1820]

Heres two old posts that might help


Here's another tip that may help you:

CONTROL YOUR ROLL INCREASING/DECREASING BALL SPEED
By Bryan O’Keefe

Bowling is about the ability to repeat shots and the readi- ness to adjust to changing conditions.
Today, we have bowling balls that absorb oil and we compete on an invisible playing field that changes with virtually every shot that goes down the lane. Bowlers need to con- stantly adjust to those changes.
Too often bowlers immediately feel the need to adjust by moving on the approach, left-to-right across the lane. Remember, the lane is 60 feet long but only 39 inches wide. There’s much more room to make front-to-back than left-to-right adjust- ments. Sometimes the best adjust- ment is stay on the same line and
simply increase or decrease the ball speed to better read the changes in the lane. If you need the ball to slow down faster, throw it slower. If you need the ball to not slow down quite as quickly, throw it faster.
Of course, increasing and decreasing ball speed is not a new concept in bowling, but the manner in which people attempt to adjust their ball speed is the subject of con- siderable debate.
One misconception is that you can adjust your ball speed by using your upper body. It’s a mistake to think that you can keep your lower body the same and simply use more muscle to throw the ball harder, or slow the ball down by grabbing it more and forcing yourself to throw the ball slower. In truth, you may

“The best way to increase or decrease ball speed is by using your legs, not your upper body.“

In truth, you may actually accomplish faster or slower ball speed, but your accuracy and consistency is going to be very difficult to repeat.
The best way to increase or de- crease ball speed is by using your legs, not your upper body. Using your lower body to adjust your tem- po to the line will allow you to main- tain a fluid, natural swing and will greatly increase your ability to repeat shots.
To increase ball speed, start your approach a step behind your normal starting point, which will give you more room so that you can walk faster. By moving faster to the line, your stride will be slightly longer. That extra pace to the line will get your lower body working while your upper body stays relaxed and ball speed will still increase.
Conversely, if you want to decrease your ball speed, move up a foot in your approach. Whether you’re using a four-step or five-step approach, your steps will be shorter and your pace will be slower.
Naturally, a byproduct of quicker/ slower tempo to the line is that your timing must adjust with the tempo, and that’s where the biggest misconception about adjusting ball speed comes in.
Prevailing wisdom suggests that in order to throw the ball harder you start the ball higher (lengthening your swing), and to slow it down you start the ball lower in your stance (shortening your swing).
By adjusting your tempo to the line, the opposite is actually true. Start with the ball about six inches lower if you want to increase ball speed, and start with the ball slightly higher if you want to decrease
ball speed. Confused?

Here’s how it works: By speeding up your tempo to the line, you’ve actually got less time to get the ball from your stance, through your swing and to the release point. Let’s say your normal swing takes four sec- onds from stance to release point. There’s a natural tempo, so your feet are instinctively going to keep track of that to keep you in your timing. Now, if you cut your swing to 3.5 seconds, your feet are going to move faster to stay in synch.
It’s all about the distance your swing travels. If you take a shorter swing, your feet automatically have to go faster in order to stay in time.
In essence, your feet have to move faster to make up for the lost distance in your swing. If your swing is longer, your feet have to move slower to maintain proper timing.
So, to increase ball speed, move back one foot on the approach and adjust the ball position six inches lower in your stance. To decrease ball speed, start one foot forward on the approach and position the ball six inches higher in your stance.
To a certain extent, the distance of your swing dictates your foot speed. Adjusting the length of the swing shorter or longer than normal will allow you to increase or decrease ball speed.
That can come in handy because often times you’re on the right part of the lane. Instead of moving left or right, adjust your ball speed to adapt to the changing lane conditions.
— Bryan O’Keefe is Assistant Coach and Facility Manager at the International Training and Research Center in Arlington, Texas.

Again, there are many ways to do this and Brian is one of the outstanding coaches in the US. Try it and see if it helps.

Bob

Here's a post I made to go with that.


There's a old book "Bowling: Knowledge is Key" by Fred Borden in it there's a part where he talks about "vertical placement" (Holding the ball higher or lower).

In it he talks about not holding it higher or lower to increase or decrease speed. But use it as a way of controlling arm swing timing to match the tempo of your feet movements. Raising the ball retards the arm swing in relation to the feet movement, lowering the ball advances the arm swing timing in relation to the feet movements

So Bowlers with a naturally fast tempo, hold the ball lower to match up with their footwork. Those with a slower tempo, hold the ball higher because it retards the swing.

Now if holding the ball higher retards the swing, that would mean it would be basically a longer, slower swing. And so the higher you hold it, the longer and slower the swing be.

Now if your trying to increase speed , using a longer and slower swing wouldn't help. You would wind up having to accelerate your arm through that longer, slower swing. Not only To make up for the speed you lost with the longer swing, but to get that extra speed you wanted in the first place. That would mean adding muscle to the swing, but muscling isn't something we want to do.

Now if you increase or decrease speed using foot work (as Bryan O'Keefe's article suggests). then using a lower ball height for faster and higher one for slower makes makes sense, because it's just matching up the swing timing with the foot work. Plus you can still have a free swing, with no muscles involved to increase the speed.

It just seemed to me that you could infer from Fred's idea above, that if you wanted to increase ball speed by faster footwork. You would have to hold the ball lower. And that is the basic idea put forth by Bryan O'Keefe's article. Increase ball speed by holding ball lower with faster footwork. Hold higher with slower footwork for slower ball speed. So to me it would seem to support Bryan's idea.

It's kind of a old idea, now new again.


But how do I find a default position?

The "default position" would be where you normally start off at and could be different for everyone.

Most of the time in bowling the classic starting point is with the ball at waist height, forearm parallel to the floor. You would then go from there, seeing if you need to raise or lower the ball in your stance.

[RobLV1]

One of the most common causes of slow ball speeds for seniors is late timing. This is a carryover from the old days when late timing was utilized almost exclusively by bowlers who wanted to throw a hook rather than a straight ball. When the ball is behind you when you get to the line and you have to pull it through, you tend to muscle it and the muscle retards your free armswing and that results in slow ball speeds. Often, in an attempt to get the timing earlier, bowlers will shorten the backswing to get the ball to the line sooner. Unfortunately, this shortening of the backswing also results in lower ball speeds. To increase your ball speed, over-emphasize your push away and your backswing, while slowing down your feet. Simply let your arm swing without "trying" to do anything to the ball. Finally, post your shot to ensure that your timing is not late (with bad timing, finishing off balance is the only possible result). For a swing thought, simply think "let it go," as you practice this technique.

[Aslan]

“The best way to increase or decrease ball speed is by using your legs, not your upper body.“

I've found that as I've started to slide more...rather than plant...that also helps. I'm no expert, but I believe it has to do with transferring your body's momentum into the speed of the ball.

On the flip side...many people tend to "plant" at the foul line. I always have as well. To me, I can't understand why a person would totally plant their foot...no slide at all...because it (in theory) completely takes your approach out of the equation. No matter how fast or slow your approach is....if you stop before you let the ball go...then you lose the added momentum of the approach = slower ball speed.

Think of it like a car. You park on the side of the road and drop a rubber ball out the window...it bounces up and down and rolls slowly into the ditch. Now do the same thing while driving 50mph...just drop the ball the same way...what velocity/speed is the ball moving at when you drop it? Answer (generally speaking): The ball is going 50mph. You didn't try to throw it forward...you just dropped it...but it's already moving 50mph because of the car.

If you want to test the impact of your footwork on ball speed...try to just go to the line and do your normal swing with no footwork. You'll probably be able to hook gutter to gutter with little effort. I tried it before, just trying to work on release and some other things...and I was surprised how slow the ball speed was when you take the approach momentum out of the equation. Even in my planting days...I still slid a little.

And watch the pros. Virtually every single pro (national tour) starts as far back in the approach as physically possible. And when I met Parker Bohn, I asked him what the biggest difference was between the PBA and PBA50...and without hesitation he said, "speed, hands down, speed". And when you watch videos of Parker...he's not putting a ton of hand into his shot...and is usually playing well to the outside in the dry...but his ball speed is tremendous.

[Mike White]

One of the most common causes of slow ball speeds for seniors is late timing. This is a carryover from the old days when late timing was utilized almost exclusively by bowlers who wanted to throw a hook rather than a straight ball. When the ball is behind you when you get to the line and you have to pull it through, you tend to muscle it and the muscle retards your free armswing and that results in slow ball speeds. Often, in an attempt to get the timing earlier, bowlers will shorten the backswing to get the ball to the line sooner. Unfortunately, this shortening of the backswing also results in lower ball speeds. To increase your ball speed, over-emphasize your push away and your backswing, while slowing down your feet. Simply let your arm swing without "trying" to do anything to the ball. Finally, post your shot to ensure that your timing is not late (with bad timing, finishing off balance is the only possible result). For a swing thought, simply think "let it go," as you practice this technique.

Aymers

I suggest you ignore the info from Rob, because it's filled with bad science.

Read the part above from Bryan O'Keefe

Speed comes mainly from the legs.

If you already start from the back of the approach, you aren't going to be able to move back further, so there is another adjustment.

Velocity = distance / time.

distance is how far back you start from the foul line.

time is how long it takes for your ball to swing back, and then forward to the release point.

To increase velocity, you either need to increase distance, or decrease time.

If you can't increase distance, lower the ball at the starting point, which makes the arm swing smaller, and therefore takes less time.

In either case, you will need to increase foot speed to increase the ball speed.

If you move back, increasing your foot speed, you stay in time with the normal arm swing, and reach the release point together with the ball.

If you just lower the ball, increasing your foot speed, allows you to reach the release point at the same time as the ball.

Either solution nets more velocity down the lane.

[NYMIKE]

I been lifting weights since I was 17 years old I expected myself to be a power player, the coach I encountered preached non muscling, and made my 4 step approach short, at first I was defying him and muscling up to 17 miles, mostly in the 15 to 16 range, today I listened to my coach (I did not have a lesson today) and had great success, I'm convinced I don't need to throw hard. My balls were in the 13.5 to 14.5 range.

[Mike White]

The game is about entry angle, and the ability to hit the proper spot on the head pin with that entry angle.

The faster you throw the ball, the more difficult it is to achieve entry angle, and the more arm muscle applied during the swing, the harder it is to hit the same place frequently.

[Amyers]

One of the most common causes of slow ball speeds for seniors is late timing. This is a carryover from the old days when late timing was utilized almost exclusively by bowlers who wanted to throw a hook rather than a straight ball. When the ball is behind you when you get to the line and you have to pull it through, you tend to muscle it and the muscle retards your free armswing and that results in slow ball speeds. Often, in an attempt to get the timing earlier, bowlers will shorten the backswing to get the ball to the line sooner. Unfortunately, this shortening of the backswing also results in lower ball speeds. To increase your ball speed, over-emphasize your push away and your backswing, while slowing down your feet. Simply let your arm swing without "trying" to do anything to the ball. Finally, post your shot to ensure that your timing is not late (with bad timing, finishing off balance is the only possible result). For a swing thought, simply think "let it go," as you practice this technique.

Well I'm not a senior but apparently do throw the ball like one. You could be right I did have late timing issues maybe I corrected that by shortening the swing.

[Amyers]

“The best way to increase or decrease ball speed is by using your legs, not your upper body.“

I've found that as I've started to slide more...rather than plant...that also helps. I'm no expert, but I believe it has to do with transferring your body's momentum into the speed of the ball.

On the flip side...many people tend to "plant" at the foul line. I always have as well. To me, I can't understand why a person would totally plant their foot...no slide at all...because it (in theory) completely takes your approach out of the equation. No matter how fast or slow your approach is....if you stop before you let the ball go...then you lose the added momentum of the approach = slower ball speed.

Think of it like a car. You park on the side of the road and drop a rubber ball out the window...it bounces up and down and rolls slowly into the ditch. Now do the same thing while driving 50mph...just drop the ball the same way...what velocity/speed is the ball moving at when you drop it? Answer (generally speaking): The ball is going 50mph. You didn't try to throw it forward...you just dropped it...but it's already moving 50mph because of the car.

If you want to test the impact of your footwork on ball speed...try to just go to the line and do your normal swing with no footwork. You'll probably be able to hook gutter to gutter with little effort. I tried it before, just trying to work on release and some other things...and I was surprised how slow the ball speed was when you take the approach momentum out of the equation. Even in my planting days...I still slid a little.

And watch the pros. Virtually every single pro (national tour) starts as far back in the approach as physically possible. And when I met Parker Bohn, I asked him what the biggest difference was between the PBA and PBA50...and without hesitation he said, "speed, hands down, speed". And when you watch videos of Parker...he's not putting a ton of hand into his shot...and is usually playing well to the outside in the dry...but his ball speed is tremendous.

With the new sole I do have a decent amount of slide. I always slid a little just not much I would say the slide is normal length now. I agree with you on the pba they do have higher ball speeds

[Amyers]

Aymers

I suggest you ignore the info from Rob, because it's filled with bad science.

Read the part above from Bryan O'Keefe

Speed comes mainly from the legs.

If you already start from the back of the approach, you aren't going to be able to move back further, so there is another adjustment.

Velocity = distance / time.

distance is how far back you start from the foul line.

time is how long it takes for your ball to swing back, and then forward to the release point.

To increase velocity, you either need to increase distance, or decrease time.

If you can't increase distance, lower the ball at the starting point, which makes the arm swing smaller, and therefore takes less time.

In either case, you will need to increase foot speed to increase the ball speed.

If you move back, increasing your foot speed, you stay in time with the normal arm swing, and reach the release point together with the ball.

If you just lower the ball, increasing your foot speed, allows you to reach the release point at the same time as the ball.

Either solution nets more velocity down the lane.

Well I do have distance as an option I typically stand on the front set of dots to one step behind them. I use a 5 step approach and have considered moving back and adding an additional 2 steps to it but haven't done it as I haven't wanted to make issues with the timing. Maybe it's time to give it a shot

[Amyers]

I been lifting weights since I was 17 years old I expected myself to be a power player, the coach I encountered preached non muscling, and made my 4 step approach short, at first I was defying him and muscling up to 17 miles, mostly in the 15 to 16 range, today I listened to my coach (I did not have a lesson today) and had great success, I'm convinced I don't need to throw hard. My balls were in the 13.5 to 14.5 range.

Mike I have no intention of trying to become a power player and would kill for 14mph. Throwing at 17 mph. Isn't really necessary to me just trying to get my shot more in line with other bowlers.

[Amyers]

Thanks for all the great ideas guys at least I have some new things to try.

[Tony]

Well I do have distance as an option I typically stand on the front set of dots to one step behind them. I use a 5 step approach and have considered moving back and adding an additional 2 steps to it but haven't done it as I haven't wanted to make issues with the timing. Maybe it's time to give it a shot

Seems like a lot of the 5 step guys start within couple feet of the of the back of the approach, so they must take longer /quicker / faster ? steps to get up to the line

Here is a video of Chris Barnes showing how he does the 5 and 4 step.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoyRbBHXQOA

Are there any coaches that do evaluations and advice by long distance ?

[Aslan]

Well I do have distance as an option I typically stand on the front set of dots to one step behind them. I use a 5 step approach and have considered moving back and adding an additional 2 steps to it but haven't done it as I haven't wanted to make issues with the timing. Maybe it's time to give it a shot

How the poo do you take 5 steps starting in front of the dots? I stand a foot behind the dots and am almost off the approach and I only take a 4-step. I tried a 5-step when I was learning Slowinski's DYDS approach. But then working with Rob we had to get me closer to the foul line and more under control….because I was almost running back then….in videos there were actulally points where both my feet were off the ground.

Granted, you may be shorter than me…perhaps considerably. I'm a true 5'11". "True" means I'm actually 5'11"…but everyone that is my heaight or slightly shorter won't believe that I'm only 5'11" (because that means they are shorter than they thought). But yeah, if you want to increase speed…move a foot back and speed up the footwork a little.

[Mike White]

How the poo do you take 5 steps starting in front of the dots? I stand a foot behind the dots and am almost off the approach and I only take a 4-step. I tried a 5-step when I was learning Slowinski's DYDS approach. But then working with Rob we had to get me closer to the foul line and more under control….because I was almost running back then….in videos there were actulally points where both my feet were off the ground.

Granted, you may be shorter than me…perhaps considerably. I'm a true 5'11". "True" means I'm actually 5'11"…but everyone that is my heaight or slightly shorter won't believe that I'm only 5'11" (because that means they are shorter than they thought). But yeah, if you want to increase speed…move a foot back and speed up the footwork a little.

Is your memory that short.

At Norco, the approaches wouldn't slide, so to keep from sticking, I had to reduce the speed I threw the ball at, which mean I would start at or in front of the dots (about 12 from the foul line), then take five (to keep my timing) steps of shorter distance, then release the ball with very little revolutions.

Oh but wait, that would be making an adjustment, something you have claimed I'm either incapable, or unwilling to do.

[Aslan]

Is your memory that short.

At Norco, the approaches wouldn't slide, so to keep from sticking, I had to reduce the speed I threw the ball at, which mean I would start at or in front of the dots (about 12 from the foul line), then take five (to keep my timing) steps of shorter distance, then release the ball with very little revolutions.

Oh but wait, that would be making an adjustment, something you have claimed I'm either incapable, or unwilling to do.

At Norco? Or Murrieta? Actually, with your mega-slide…I imagine just about any approach will/can be problematic.

But yes, I kinda remember you doing a little Fred Flinstone dance before releasing the ball…I guess I just thought you liked to dance.

Although, I can't tease you TOO much because now that I'm learning to slide…suddenly I too have the same weakness…a really bad approach os something on your shoe isn't as inconsequential as it used to be…thats for sure.

[RobLV1]

Moving back on the approach is really a two-edged sword. It is easy to get the first step of a five step approach too long that gets too much momentum going to quickly. The result is that the bowler gets to the line before the ball, forcing a muscled armswing, and a loss of ball speed.

[Mike White]

Moving back on the approach is really a two-edged sword. It is easy to get the first step of a five step approach too long that gets too much momentum going to quickly. The result is that the bowler gets to the line before the ball, forcing a muscled armswing, and a loss of ball speed.

Please take a class in physics.

[MICHAEL]

I don't do Speed, and would recommend that none you fine bowlers use the stuff! You have much more control when you don't do
drugs! Speed is a one way ticket to trouble! Know your speed limits, abide by them, and follow through! Speed and lose of control are like two birds of the same herd, drove, flock, what ever....

So what have I actually said, above?

Although it would be easy for Iceman to break it down, make is simple, so to say, I won't.

Look deeply into the cryptic hidden message, and you will find truth!

Like Einstein once said, Speed is Relative!

[billf]

Are there any coaches that do evaluations and advice by long distance ?

Yes. As a matter of fact it was one of the reasons the other site was started and where I've been the past 2 1/2 years. I do video analysis for free in my spare time. I get credit towards Gold for it and the more experience the better. I'm also a coaching junkie. I am heavily influenced by Slowinski, Baker and Hatfield so if you don't agree with the concepts of these three Gold coaches don't waste your time with me. Send me a PM and I will ensure you know what camera angles are needed, email or Ubersense address.

The USBC bowling academy has some good videos. Speed control and variation is one of the subjects.

Mike White AND Rob had valid points. Mike's science. Rob when he said some have a tendency to make the first step too long when attempting to speed up the feet. Easy solution; control the first step.

*Ubersense is now Technique

[Tony]

Yes. As a matter of fact it was one of the reasons the other site was started and where I've been the past 2 1/2 years. I do video analysis for free in my spare time. I get credit towards Gold for it and the more experience the better. I'm also a coaching junkie. I am heavily influenced by Slowinski, Baker and Hatfield so if you don't agree with the concepts of these three Gold coaches don't waste your time with me. Send me a PM and I will ensure you know what camera angles are needed, email or Ubersense address.

The USBC bowling academy has some good videos. Speed control and variation is one of the subjects.

Mike White AND Rob had valid points. Mike's science. Rob when he said some have a tendency to make the first step too long when attempting to speed up the feet. Easy solution; control the first step.

*Ubersense is now Technique

Good to know about the remote coaching, I was asking in reference to AMYERS saying the nearest coaching available is 3.5 hours away. I on the other hand an very lucky to live near Richard Shockley , however that doesn't mean another perspective might not be of value in the future.

[J Anderson]

Yes. As a matter of fact it was one of the reasons the other site was started and where I've been the past 2 1/2 years. I do video analysis for free in my spare time. I get credit towards Gold for it and the more experience the better. I'm also a coaching junkie. I am heavily influenced by Slowinski, Baker and Hatfield so if you don't agree with the concepts of these three Gold coaches don't waste your time with me. Send me a PM and I will ensure you know what camera angles are needed, email or Ubersense address.

The USBC bowling academy has some good videos. Speed control and variation is one of the subjects.

Mike White AND Rob had valid points. Mike's science. Rob when he said some have a tendency to make the first step too long when attempting to speed up the feet. Easy solution; control the first step.

*Ubersense is now Technique

I think Ubersense is now HudlTechnique

[Amyers]

How the poo do you take 5 steps starting in front of the dots? I stand a foot behind the dots and am almost off the approach and I only take a 4-step. I tried a 5-step when I was learning Slowinski's DYDS approach. But then working with Rob we had to get me closer to the foul line and more under control….because I was almost running back then….in videos there were actulally points where both my feet were off the ground.

Granted, you may be shorter than me…perhaps considerably. I'm a true 5'11". "True" means I'm actually 5'11"…but everyone that is my heaight or slightly shorter won't believe that I'm only 5'11" (because that means they are shorter than they thought). But yeah, if you want to increase speed…move a foot back and speed up the footwork a little.

Sorry I guess I missed some of the post here. I might be 5"10 but in that area my legs are short though I only have a 26" inseam most of my height is in the upper body. I'm pretty sure if I tried to start from the back of the approach I'd have to jump to try to make it to the line and no one wants to see that at my size.