Back to bowling after a LONG break: is playing the outside line not kosher anymore?

[Buster76]

I am 40 years old, and getting back into bowling after an 19 year hiatus from competitive league and tournament bowling. I started in youth leagues at around 12 years old and really took to the sport. Stopped bowling around age 21 as there just wasn't enough time between school, my other hobbies and girls.

My goto line was and I guess still is playing down and in between boards 3 and 5. I have been doing a lot of opening bowling and watching league bowlers practice and I have not seen anyone playing this type of line. One young buck on the lanes next to me last week actually comments that he never sees anyone play the line I'm playing. From my own observations the down and in bowers all seem to be playing around the 2nd arrow or maybe even as far out as the 8 board. Is playing the extreme outside just something not done anymore with today's equipment?

Additionally all of my balls are 16lbs and I am wondering if dropping down to 15lbs would make a difference. My wrists have taken a beating from over 20 years of martial arts training and the morning after bowling has been rough on my right wrist joint.

[Timmyb]

Bowl how you want to bowl. I personally love playing around the 6-8 board, when conditions allow, but I'll move out if I need to.

I also am just starting back (two years back now). I had to switch to 15 lbs. Just could not get enough reaction going with 16. It made a huge improvement in my game!

[RobLV1]

There have been many, many changes to bowling in the past 20 years. Twenty years ago, reactive resin balls were just becoming popular among league bowlers, and those balls were just beginning to utilize dynamic cores. Many league bowlers were still using urethane balls. Because of the difference in the reactivity of those balls, bowlers still looked for dry boards to find the friction that they needed to get the ball to hook. Today's balls are very, very aggressive, both in terms of cover materials and cores that they hook all by themselves. One of the things that make them so aggressive is that they absorb oil off of the lane at an alarming rate. The top tier of league bowlers as well as tournament players often find that they have to move more toward the center of the lane every two or three frames as their balls, and the balls of others on the pair, dry out a particular line very quickly. This difference in bowling balls has resulted in a different mind set among top bowlers: they are not looking for friction, they are looking for oil. Oil used to be the enemy, now it's our friend.

Most bowling centers put out a "typical house shot" which features very little oil outside of the second arrow to allow league bowlers miss room with free hook to the right. The area of the lane, between three and five board where you used to play, now typically contains only three units of oil which is the minimum amount that the USBC requires from gutter to gutter for the length of the pattern. Modern balls are so strong that they don't even recognize three units of oil. Playing outside of the ten board now is referred to as "playing in the dirt" as the lack of oil causes modern balls to use up their energy much to quickly, resulting in lack of carry. For all intents and purposes, the area outside of ten is out of bounds other than for misses to the right down the lane.

Most league bowlers today use 15 lb. balls as they are more readily available in pro shops, and are easier on the wrist and body. Going to 15 lbs would probably be a good idea for you if you are having wrist problems.

Welcome back!

[Tony]

I have seen most guys move down from 16 to 15 and even 14 lb balls due to wrist and arm problems, and to tell you the truth very few have complained about loss of carry after doing so.

As far as the line, the new most popular line is going to be around 2nd arrow or the 10 board due to newer equipment and oil patterns.

One of the best things you could do would be getting a new 15 lb modern ball with fingertip grip, your local pro shop should be able to suggest a middle of the road ball for you. The 20 year old balls you have a pretty much useless in todays game.

[J Anderson]

The days when more weight equalled more pin carry are long gone. 15 pounds has become the most popular weight for pro shops to stock, and for someone with wrist issues I would consider dropping to 14# or even 13#.

I'm not too sure that playing a line between 3 & 5 was ever all that popular among average bowlers. I see a lot of it in sport league, sometimes even on longer patterns that in theory should be played further inside. I do know some bowlers who frequently play outside of the 5 board successfully on the house shot. However, the THS is designed to maximize a bowlers room for error at least as far as accuracy goes. By starting out on the dry boards you give up that advantage.

I have more thing on your wrist problems. I was not coaching 20 years ago, but now there is at least some emphasis in youth coaching to treat bowling as an athletic activity. Making sure that you are warmed up before bowling and doing some cool down stretches after may also help your wrist.

[fokai73]

welcome back!!!

I was in a very similar boat as you. when I returned, I had a lot to learn. From ball dynamics, fitting, lanes, etc.....I was lucky to be surrounded by ppl in the industry who were willing to teach me some stuffs...

Enjoy the journey and don't stop training MA. I came from old school bowling and MA training. No mats, no pads, no crying... Here in the mainland, it'll be called child abuse. Many times I've seen my mama cry.... just like many bowlers who cry over low scoring patterns, yet they still bowl on a house pattern. You'll see....but it's business and people want results.... make league bowlers happy, the house will be happy.....

[foreverincamo]

Welcome back to the sport. If the shot calls for being outside like that, then throw it. I also use 16 pound balls. I'm not giving them up until I have to.

[Buster76]

Thanks for all the responses.....lots of very good info to digest.

With regards to line choice, several of the comments so far are about playing what ever line I like. I have no problem being my own person and going against the fold, but I'm also competitive and want to give myself every advantage to score well. If that means changing my line then that is what I will have to do. As a teen / young adult I was very competitive in youth leagues and tournaments and then adult leagues for a couple years before leaving the sport.

As far as equipment goes, my strike ball is modern ball, an Ebonite 'The One' that I picked about 5 or 6 years ago. Went bowling with my father and after several shots realized my old urethane Rhino Pro wasn't cutting it. Went to the pro shop and bought the ball and had it drilled in about 20 minutes and actually rolled a decent series if I recall. I now use the old Rhino Pro as my dedicated spare ball. All of my equipment, even my very old stuff from my teen age years was drilled for finger tips. I actually still have an old AMF Angle in the basement (with finger tips) that was my first proper bowling ball at age 13. I have been able to play with the finish on 'The One' as well as with ball speed so it goes long and breaks late and hard. Very consistent hitting the pocket, but I don't think the entry angle is ideal because I am leaving 10 pin after 10 pin after 10 pin. Luckily I can still pick those up consistently. I think if I want to keep playing this outside line I need a ball that breaks a little sooner, but not as hard to get a better entry angle into the pocket.....if such an ball even exists. Need to ask around to find out what is the best pro-shop in my area and get the PSO to watch me Bowl a few games and make some equipment suggestions. Going down to 15lbs will be part of that.

I know it's not the same as league conditions, but I have been averaging in the low 190s with very few open frames in my practice. Strikes have been hard to come by, but 1 and 2 pin spares are pretty much automatic. Baby splits are giving me some headaches but I don't see those too much. My current plan is to keep practicing a couple times per week for the next month to see how my wrist holds up. Hopefully the lighter ball weigh will help. If my wrist can take it I will be signing up for a summer league at one of the local houses.

[Buster76]

Thanks for all the responses.....lots of very good info to digest.

With regards to line choice, several of the comments so far are about playing what ever line I like. I have no problem being my own person and going against the fold, but I'm also competitive and want to give myself every advantage to score well. If that means changing my line then that is what I will have to do. As a teen / young adult I was very competitive in youth leagues and tournaments and then adult leagues for a couple years before leaving the sport.

As far as equipment goes, my strike ball is modern ball, an Ebonite 'The One' that I picked about 5 or 6 years ago. Went bowling with my father and after several shots realized my old urethane Rhino Pro wasn't cutting it. Went to the pro shop and bought the ball and had it drilled in about 20 minutes and actually rolled a decent series if I recall. I now use the old Rhino Pro as my dedicated spare ball. All of my equipment, even my very old stuff from my teen age years was drilled for finger tips. I actually still have an old AMF Angle in the basement (with finger tips) that was my first proper bowling ball at age 13. I have been able to play with the finish on 'The One' as well as with ball speed so it goes long and breaks late and hard. Very consistent hitting the pocket, but I don't think the entry angle is ideal because I am leaving 10 pin after 10 pin after 10 pin. Luckily I can still pick those up consistently. I think if I want to keep playing this outside line I need a ball that breaks a little sooner, but not as hard to get a better entry angle into the pocket.....if such an ball even exists. Need to ask around to find out what is the best pro-shop in my area and get the PSO to watch me Bowl a few games and make some equipment suggestions. Going down to 15lbs will be part of that.

I know it's not the same as league conditions, but I have been averaging in the low 190s with very few open frames in my practice. Strikes have been hard to come by, but 1 and 2 pin spares are pretty much automatic. Baby splits are giving me some headaches but I don't see those too much. My current plan is to keep practicing a couple times per week for the next month to see how my wrist holds up. Hopefully the lighter ball weigh will help. If my wrist can take it I will be signing up for a summer league at one of the local houses.

[fordman1]

Lots of good advice but no one has seen you throw a ball. Don't know how much fingers you put into the ball or if you are just a satchel type bowler.

You won't be able to figure out what line to play until you get into a league and see what they do to the lane. Everywhere you go will be a little different.
Just figure it out and have a good time.

[Buster76]

Don't know how much fingers you put into the ball or if you are just a satchel type bowled

I'm not familiar with the term "Satchel Type Bowler". Tried googling it but came up empty.

[J Anderson]

I'm not familiar with the term "Satchel Type Bowler". Tried googling it but came up empty.

I think Fordman 1 means someone who uses "suitcase" release.

[RobLV1]

Rolling on the Floor, Laughing my A** off!

[fordman1]

Tomatos,,,tomatas oops. I used the satchel grip carrying my M-16. See every thing doesn't have to be so serious. We used it back when we had pin boys. :rolleyes:

[NewToBowling]

I thought maybe he meant sarge easter

[fordman1]

I was the sarge....

[morgothaod]

Additionally all of my balls are 16lbs and I am wondering if dropping down to 15lbs would make a difference. My wrists have taken a beating from over 20 years of martial arts training and the morning after bowling has been rough on my right wrist joint.

I have bowled with a 15, 14, 13, and 12lb ball (I too have had wrist issues). Based on my experience the carry with the 15, 14, and 13 lb ball was the same. I currently use a 13 lb ball and I average over 200 (Ebonite Cyclone, If you go under 14 lbs on most balls the weight inside the ball is made of a different material. However, with the Cyclone the stuff inside the ball is the same). However, when I used the 12 lb ball (Also an Ebonite Cyclone), pocket hits often led to splits!

[chip82901]

Honestly, it all just depends on where you feel comfortable, and what angles are carrying. A lot of times, straighter down lane will produce a good reaction, but less room for miss, at least in my home house. Then again, swinging it can create over/under pretty quick. Find something that you feel comfortable with, and if you're hammering the pocket but having trouble carrying, try changing that entry angle a bit

[Aslan]

This difference in bowling balls has resulted in a different mind set among top bowlers: they are not looking for friction, they are looking for oil. Oil used to be the enemy, now it's our friend.
I'll agree with Rob on this point.


I have seen most guys move down from 16 to 15 and even 14 lb balls due to wrist and arm problems, and to tell you the truth very few have complained about loss of carry after doing so.


The days when more weight equalled more pin carry are long gone. 15 pounds has become the most popular weight for pro shops to stock, and for someone with wrist issues I would consider dropping to 14# or even 13#.

Realize, there is virtually NO evidence supporting that 15# and 14# carry as well as 16#. Zero evidence.
Now, there IS evidence that a 15lb or 14lb ball will carry just as well...maybe even a little better...because it tends to allow the bowler to increase their rev rate. So, when you hear people say 15lb and 14lb carry just as well as 16lb...realize that's ONLY true...if your rev rate increases with a 14lb and 15lb ball....otherwise it is simply fiction.

Most folks praise lower weight balls because they love to see their ball hook the lane...the lighter the ball, the more revs you can put on it...the more hook you'll get. But...MORE hook doesn't equal "better"...as the open bowlers throwing 6lb balls will illustrate every night after league bowling is over. Logically speaking, IF lighter balls = "better"....everyone would be gravitating towards 6lb balls. And, unless you're a Glo Bowler...a 2-hander...or a 5-year old....not alot of demand for 6lb balls.

Like most of my old school bowling idols...many of whom are doing quite well down in Florida at the first event of the PBA50 season...I throw 16lbs...because they won't let me throw 17lbs. I've thrown 15lbs...my rev rate was a little better...but my tendency to leave 8-10s and single 8-pins increased noticeably.


....but I don't think the entry angle is ideal because I am leaving 10 pin after 10 pin after 10 pin.
Sounds like you either need a more modern ball...or you need to move in to the 10-board area...depends on "why" you're coming in light.
The trick will be finding a modern bowling ball that would allow you to stay outside. A Storm Mix, Columbia Scout Reactive, a Storm Tropical Breeze, or an Ebonite Cyclone might even be too strong to play outside of 8-9 on a THS.


I know it's not the same as league conditions, but I have been averaging in the low 190s with very few open frames in my practice.
Oh, nevermind. I thought you were talking about league conditions. Open bowling practice means nothing...the lanes are beat up and the oil pattern is chewed up...there's very little you can learn from averaging "insert number" "in practice". I shot a 300 "in practice"...and I suck way too much to bowl one in league play. Like Rob mentioned, the newer bowling balls chew up the lanes so quickly and badly...that it's made practice difficult...because you're bowling on completely different conditions during open bowling than you'll see on league night.

Join a league...you'll figure out the rest pretty fast.

[Tony]

I'll agree with Rob on this point.





Realize, there is virtually NO evidence supporting that 15# and 14# carry as well as 16#. Zero evidence.
Now, there IS evidence that a 15lb or 14lb ball will carry just as well...maybe even a little better...because it tends to allow the bowler to increase their rev rate. So, when you hear people say 15lb and 14lb carry just as well as 16lb...realize that's ONLY true...if your rev rate increases with a 14lb and 15lb ball....otherwise it is simply fiction.

Most folks praise lower weight balls because they love to see their ball hook the lane...the lighter the ball, the more revs you can put on it...the more hook you'll get. But...MORE hook doesn't equal "better"...as the open bowlers throwing 6lb balls will illustrate every night after league bowling is over. Logically speaking, IF lighter balls = "better"....everyone would be gravitating towards 6lb balls. And, unless you're a Glo Bowler...a 2-hander...or a 5-year old....not alot of demand for 6lb balls.

Like most of my old school bowling idols...many of whom are doing quite well down in Florida at the first event of the PBA50 season...I throw 16lbs...because they won't let me throw 17lbs. I've thrown 15lbs...my rev rate was a little better...but my tendency to leave 8-10s and single 8-pins increased noticeably.


When you have a number of the professional bowlers on tour, who are trying to win money bowling in tournaments, switch to using 15 lb balls over 16 lb balls, that in itself is evidence that those bowlers feel a 15 lb ball will give them a better chance at success than a 16 lb ball.
Why would we trust your logic versus the tour bowlers that a 16 lb ball would be the best ball for everyone to throw. Let's also remember besides ball rotation that might change with a lighter ball the actual ball speed could also increase with a lighter ball.
Another factor to consider is fatigue, if the ability to consistently release a 16 lb ball diminishes during a bowling session then perhaps using a lighter ball that allows you to release the ball in the most advantageous way consistently throughout the entire league session might also be seen as an advantage of the lighter ball.

This leads to a conclusion that because of the variety of factors involved in the argument about what weight of bowling ball would give a player the best chance for success, that not all bowlers will perform their best with a 16 lb ball.

Going back to the OP complaining of wrist problems, it's certainly a reasonable conclusion that with a lighter ball that the wrists will suffer less wear and tear and that would be an advantage to the OP.

[fortheloveofbowling]

The reason many pba players went to 15 lb equipment is to actually achieve a little more deflection. This is definitely a help with higher rev guys. But, you still have guys like norm duke, chris barnes and even some pwba players such as shannon pluhowsky and missy parkin who throw 16 lb equipment. But to tony's points physical limitations, decreased rev rates, ball speed, etc. can be helped by dropping down in weight. My feeling has always been throw the heaviest equipment i can for the best pin carry. But every individual has to analyse how their ball is going through the pins and decide for themselves.

[Tony]

Like most of my old school bowling idols...many of whom are doing quite well down in Florida at the first event of the PBA50 season...I throw 16lbs...because they won't let me throw 17lbs. I've thrown 15lbs...my rev rate was a little better...but my tendency to leave 8-10s and single 8-pins increased noticeably.




As an example of it all depends, I'll tell you what happened with my teammate who had been using a 16 lb ball forever. He got a 15 lb ball this year and was doing fine for a while, then was leaving more 10 pins than usual, so he decided to go back to 16, all was good for a few weeks, then he was leaving 10 pins again......switched back to the 15 lb ball, this was about 2/3 of the way through the season, he stuck with the 15 to the end of the season.
Last year he finished with a 199 avg, the last few years was between 198 and 201, this year with the 15 lb ball he didn't like that much, he was at 205. While he thought the ball weight was the possible cause of more 10 pin leaves, it turned out to be mostly him, and he actually averaged the highest he ever has in 40 years of bowling......now lets see what ball he gets for next season.

[Amyers]

I'm in the process of considering changing from 15 to 14 myself. Been throwing 14's for about a month so far. It has allowed me to increase my speed and rev rate. I've actually been able to straighten my lines somewhat. So far overall scoring has increased and the pins I'm leaving have changed. I'm seeing a marked decrease in 8 and 9 pins a increase in 10 and 7 so far. Still testing it out probably make a decision in another month or so but so far I'm leaning towards the 14's

[Aslan]

When you have a number of the professional bowlers on tour, who are trying to win money bowling in tournaments, switch to using 15 lb balls over 16 lb balls, that in itself is evidence that those bowlers feel a 15 lb ball will give them a better chance at success than a 16 lb ball. Why would we trust your logic versus the tour bowlers that a 16 lb ball would be the best ball for everyone to throw.
Also my arguement against 2-handed bowling...which is shot down whenever I make said argument.

So? Which is it? Should we endorse 15lb balls and 1-handed bowling...because that's what the majority of the pros do? I have a feeling 2-handers will object....plus 2-handers will object to 15lb balls...because the majority of 2-handers throw < 15lbs...so...again, "wave of the future"???


Let's also remember besides ball rotation that might change with a lighter ball the actual ball speed could also increase with a lighter ball.
"Maybe". But, now you're going to get into a physics discussion about the difference between momentum and force...and MWhite isn't here to be the relevant physics expert...plus, that topic would be boring.


Another factor to consider is fatigue, if the ability to consistently release a 16 lb ball diminishes during a bowling session then perhaps using a lighter ball that allows you to release the ball in the most advantageous way consistently throughout the entire league session might also be seen as an advantage of the lighter ball.
Again...another great argument I use against 2-handed bowling...that always gets shot down.


This leads to a conclusion that because of the variety of factors involved in the argument about what weight of bowling ball would give a player the best chance for success, that not all bowlers will perform their best with a 16 lb ball.
Well, there is no "one thing" that gives bowlers the best chance of success....and if there WAS...bowling ball weight would rank somewhere in the bottom 25% percentile.


Going back to the OP complaining of wrist problems, it's certainly a reasonable conclusion that with a lighter ball that the wrists will suffer less wear and tear and that would be an advantage to the OP.
Agreed. If a person is having wrist issues, elbow issues, shoulder issues, bursitis, arthritis, or a previous injury/surgery...going down in weight is a great way to add longevity and success to your bowling career.

Unfortunately, the conversation quickly went to "...besides, bowling with 15lb is ideal..."...which is "sort of true"...but not for the reason of "better carry".


The reason many pba players went to 15 lb equipment is to actually achieve a little more deflection....My feeling has always been throw the heaviest equipment i can for the best pin carry. But every individual has to analyse how their ball is going through the pins and decide for themselves.
The heavier the ball, the less deflection, the better the carry.

HOWEVER...that assumes that only impact on acheiving a "strike" is the ability of a ball to carry through the pins. The TRUE ability to strike is based on the balls ability to travel through the pins AND the angle at which it enters the pocket. The lighter the ball, the more rpms, the better the angle of entry into the pocket. Most pros have dropped down to 15lbs because it gives them the best COMBINATION of carry and rev rate. It is the COMBINATION that determines strikeability....which is why 15lb balls are now considered "ideal". But, FTLOB is absolutely correct...you have to analyze what the ball is doing and be willing to try a heavier/lighter weight. Most bowlers don't even bother to try 16lbs...and many pro shops are failing to even stock 16lb balls.

I was going to enter a raffle one night...if my ticket was drawn, I could have any ball in the pro shop and have it drilled for free. There was a Smackdown (or Takedown or Throwdown...I can't remember) that I really wanted. But, it was 15lbs. There was a Motiv Jackal I was considering (pre-Aslan Ban on Motiv)...but it was 14lbs. The shop only had 4 balls that were 16lbs...and I already had one of them and one was a spare ball. On the flip side...I've paid about $80 per ball...for some relatively newer releases....shipping included....because 16lb balls on clearance tend to be bargains.


....While he thought the ball weight was the possible cause of more 10 pin leaves, it turned out to be mostly him, and he actually averaged the highest he ever has in 40 years of bowling......now lets see what ball he gets for next season.
Like I said, I've used both...I used 16lb equipment in 2014-2015. I used 15lb equipment in 2015-2016. And I've used 16lb in 2016-2017. My next arsenal will likely be the last of my 16lb balls...because I have quite a few undrilled 15lb balls I'd like to finally drill up.

The results have been exactly as expected. The 16lb balls carry better...but the rev rate is lower and the ball speed slightly lower. 15lb balls give me a little more speed and more rpms...but the deflection leaves noticeably more 8-pins and 8-10 splits. With 16lbs...I have more of a tendency to leave a 4-6-7-9-10 split...which I rarely ever leave with a 15lb ball. Single-pin spare shooting is actually a 'wash'. The 15lb spare ball gives me a little "bounce" if I miss the corner pin toward the gutter...but it also tends to hook just a little and can result in a miss inside (away from the gutter).

I'd consider trying 14lbs...but I'm young and healthy enough that I don't need to do that for health reasons...so it would be simply to satisfy curiosity.

[Buster76]

Sounds like you either need a more modern ball...or you need to move in to the 10-board area...depends on "why" you're coming in light.
.

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

[AlexNC]

Ebonite is still using the same coverstock on the Gamebreaker 2/GB2 MVP. I wouldn't call the ball obsolete :) After 80 games you might need some maintenance, depending on the care that it's gotten up to this point.


I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

[J Anderson]

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?


Ebonite is still using the same coverstock on the Gamebreaker 2/GB2 MVP. I wouldn't call the ball obsolete :) After 80 games you might need some maintenance, depending on the care that it's gotten up to this point.

At 80 games this ball is almost certainly no longer at out of the box specs. Smooth balls get roughed up by the lanes and rough balls get smoothed. Also, even if you've compulsively wiping this ball off after every shot, it could probably use de-oiling.

Onthe other hand, if you're playing this ball outside of the five board, it's probably rolling out too soon winding up d.o.a. at the pocket.

[Tony]

I'm currently using a 5 to 6 year old Ebonite The One reactive resin bowling ball with less than 80 games on it. Is that not orders enough or so these new balls need to be replaced much often now (planned obsolescence)?

If you are leaving 10 pins, a light hit. The light hit might be caused by the ball's lack of energy when entering the pocket, or a poor angle of entry.

If the angle is not the culprit then it could be the way the ball matches up to the lanes, but since you're bowling on variable open bowling conditions, it's not easy to determine if it's the ball or the lane condition, once you start bowling on a regular consistent condition like a league might offer, you'll be able to tell more.

[Buster76]

If you are leaving 10 pins, a light hit. The light hit might be caused by the ball's lack of energy when entering the pocket, or a poor angle of entry.
.

QUOTE=J Anderson;158004]Onthe other hand, if you're playing this ball outside of the five board, it's probably rolling out too soon winding up d.o.a. at the pocket.[/QUOTE]

I'm not 100% certain but I don't think the ball is rolling out and DOA at the pocket. Typically I am hitting the pocket hard and crushing the rest of the rack, the damn 10 pin just isn't getting taken out which is why I think it's more of an entry angle. I just need to get the local PSO to watch me roll some frames and make a suggestion.

Got to practice this weekend and my wrist is really bothering me, think the jump to a 15lb ball is the way to go.

[jamoke]

I'm a geezer at 60 who is trying to get back into competitive league bowling after a 15 year hiatus. Job had prevented me from bowling for many years and now that I dumped the job, am ready to have fun again.

Appreciate the extended explanations posted in this thread. Lot's of combined wisdom here for free. I am struggling to understand what has happened to the game in the last 15 years, and this thread answers a lot of my questions.

Thanks.

[LOUVIT]

Funny I just asked about this is this thread a few minutes ago

http://www.bowlingboards.com/threads/20853-16-vs-15

[Buster76]

Random thought......would playing with a urethane ball allow me to play the outside line in the dry better than a reactive ball?

[J Anderson]

Random thought......would playing with a urethane ball allow me to play the outside line in the dry better than a reactive ball?

I would think so.

[Aslan]

Random thought......would playing with a urethane ball allow me to play the outside line in the dry better than a reactive ball?

Maybe.

It might let you consistently find the pocket using the outside line....but I doubt it will provide optimum carry.

[jamoke]

It might let you consistently find the pocket using the outside line....but I doubt it will provide optimum carry.

Just trying to understand why...Less then optimum carry due to steeper entry angle or something else?

[Amyers]

Just trying to understand why...Less then optimum carry due to steeper entry angle or something else?

Not really going to be a steeper entry angle with urethane. Urethane rolls early if your having issues with the ball rolling out urethane is just going to make that worse. Quit trying to play where you want too instead of playing where the lanes need to be played at. Trying to stay where you want and just change balls is usually a falling proposition.

[Aslan]

Just trying to understand why...Less then optimum carry due to steeper entry angle or something else?

Urethane balls don't have the powerful coverstocks...and usually a much weaker core. So, the "angle" is there (if it's there)...but the "power" is lacking. That's why the sport switched to resin from urethane...urethane from plastic....plastic from rubber. The only reason we're seeing a mini-resurgence of urethane...is the 2-handed style and easier oil patterns...making all the new bowling ball technology "overkill".

BUT....the outside line IS still there....regardless of what my mentor RobM says...because I just watched the PBA50 in The Villages and nearly every one of em played the 1-2 board area.

Granted...that was on the PBA Cheetah....but still.