Making First Bowling Ball Purchase- HELP!!!

[ChrisG]

I thought this would be more simple. This is my first bowling ball purchase and I want to spend my hard earned money the right way. I'm athletic and can learn technique quickly. Thus being said, I am not going pro any time soon. I just want to make the correct purchase. *my experience at two shops so far* One "Pro" in town (has over 40 -300 games and 20 -800 series) seemed knowledgeable and guided me to the $120-$130 price point (rhino or something similar), explaining the next level was for when I knew my lanes and throwing style otherwise I may lose control of my ball and not have picked one with the correct style of weight in the core. The other PRO (actually was on the pro tour 5 years with 9 PBA championships) didn't seem to think I needed to stay at that price point to start but maybe go "up a level". I'm over thinking it maybe but just do not know what to do. I do want to and can throw a hook. Will also be purchasing a 15# ball. Same situation for my girlfriend other than she will throw a 12# ball.

Any advice from anyone very knowledgeable would be greatly appreciated!!

Chris

[1VegasBowler]

The Rhino line is great for entry level, but also ones that a pro can use as well, and with the proper drilling it will be great on house shots (league nights).

[Blacksox1]

Without going into brands, get a $120 ball, solid, symmetric, non-polished resin. :)

[Tony]

One consideration might be if you are getting the ball for open bowling or will you be joining a league and using it there.

Depending on the area centers they are less likely to have fresh oil down for open bowling and a higher end ball could indeed be too much for the lane condition.
If you are planning to use it for league bowling and they put down fresh oil for leagues you might be Ok with the higher end ball.

One way to look at it is if you only buy the one ball and use it for open bowling the 120 ball will be fine, if you bowl leagues you will need the 120 ball as one of a couple or several balls for different conditions as you progress, so the 120 ball is a good place to begin.

[bowl1820]

I thought this would be more simple. This is my first bowling ball purchase and I want to spend my hard earned money the right way. I'm athletic and can learn technique quickly. Thus being said, I am not going pro any time soon.


#1

I just want to make the correct purchase. *my experience at two shops so far* One "Pro" in town (has over 40 -300 games and 20 -800 series) seemed knowledgeable and guided me to the $120-$130 price point (rhino or something similar), explaining the next level was for when I knew my lanes and throwing style otherwise I may lose control of my ball and not have picked one with the correct style of weight in the core.

#2

The other PRO (actually was on the pro tour 5 years with 9 PBA championships) didn't seem to think I needed to stay at that price point to start but maybe go "up a level". I'm over thinking it maybe but just do not know what to do. I do want to and can throw a hook. Will also be purchasing a 15# ball. Same situation for my girlfriend other than she will throw a 12# ball.


Any advice from anyone very knowledgeable would be greatly appreciated!!

Chris

Of the two pro-shops, Number one IMO gave the best answer. It's a conservative approach looking ahead.

If your just starting out no sense breaking the bank and using a more expensive high performance (Not that low cost means low performance) ball. That might not suit your game after it develops.

[1VegasBowler]

#1


#2




Of the two pro-shops, Number one IMO gave the best answer. It's a conservative approach looking ahead.

If your just starting out no sense breaking the bank and using a more expensive high performance (Not that low cost means low performance) ball. That might not suit your game after it develops.

And don't forget, that, with the Rhino line, you can make changes later on to perform even better, whether it's drilling, surface or both.

[JasonNJ]

I agree with Pro #1. Buy the mid range ball concentrate on technique and learn how to bowl, then you can upgrade to a stronger ball if needed.

[ChrisG]

Thank you all for the feedback. It's greatly appreciated. Just a couple more things to add and answer a few of the questions back to me. We are going to be bowling league, 9 pin to start and then will get into regular league play. Pro shop #1 also holds a 14 week league at several of the local lanes which is $20/week. The kicker, that includes for the price free 30 min lessons each week prior to league play and also a free ball of the next level. Sounds hard to not go through him with $120 option and then join his league next time around.

Pro shop #2 apparently has more inventory and holds many close out balls of higher value that he is able to sell at a better price point.

* 1VegasBowler, can you elaborate on the Rhino upgrades? Nobody mentioned that to us.

thanks again, all!!!

[bowl1820]

Thank you all for the feedback. It's greatly appreciated. Just a couple more things to add and answer a few of the questions back to me. We are going to be bowling league, 9 pin to start and then will get into regular league play. Pro shop #1 also holds a 14 week league at several of the local lanes which is $20/week. The kicker, that includes for the price free 30 min lessons each week prior to league play and also a free ball of the next level. Sounds hard to not go through him with $120 option and then join his league next time around.
That just makes it even better


Pro shop #2 apparently has more inventory and holds many close out balls of higher value that he is able to sell at a better price point.

This shop would be a option later on when looking for a good deal on a high end ball.


And don't forget, that, with the Rhino line, you can make changes later on to perform even better, whether it's drilling, surface or both.


* 1VegasBowler, can you elaborate on the Rhino upgrades? Nobody mentioned that to us.

thanks again, all!!!

"Upgrades" like Drilling's (ie:Layout changes) and surface changes are not exclusive to the "Rhino" line, they can be done on any ball.

In fact surface changes you can do yourself, with sandpaper. abralon pads, etc. and there's numerous posts about doing it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khUITPlM5-Y

[ChrisG]

Thank you. At one point someone on here mentioned getting the Rhino in a solid, symmetric, non-polished resin. Is that a standard all shops should carry? THe balls we were looking at were of course colorful and shiny. I do remember them mentioning that they were "reactive". when I go in for the $120 balls should I ask for certain features? Should I hold them to a certain standard on drilling? For instance, is there some line I should be making sure they are drilling on one side or the other of?

Thanks,

Chris

[J Anderson]

Thank you. At one point someone on here mentioned getting the Rhino in a solid, symmetric, non-polished resin. Is that a standard all shops should carry? THe balls we were looking at were of course colorful and shiny. I do remember them mentioning that they were "reactive". when I go in for the $120 balls should I ask for certain features? Should I hold them to a certain standard on drilling? For instance, is there some line I should be making sure they are drilling on one side or the other of?

Thanks,

Chris

For a first ball, all you really need to ask for is an entry level reactive resin ball. That will generally translate to something with a symetric core and not terribly agressive solid coverstock. Whatever you get you can always sand or polish to tweak the reaction.

As for layout, unless they have demo balls that you could throw for the driller to find your PAP, you are going to get a generic layout. The important things are to get fit for a finger tip grip and to make sure the fit is right. You can propably find several threads here to help determine if the fit is good.

[Tony]

Thank you. At one point someone on here mentioned getting the Rhino in a solid, symmetric, non-polished resin. Is that a standard all shops should carry? THe balls we were looking at were of course colorful and shiny. I do remember them mentioning that they were "reactive". when I go in for the $120 balls should I ask for certain features? Should I hold them to a certain standard on drilling? For instance, is there some line I should be making sure they are drilling on one side or the other of?

Thanks,

Chris

There are other series of balls in that range that are popular in addition to the Rhino series
Columbia Scout
Storm Tropical Breeze / Tropical Strom
900 Global Boost

Also popular / might be in the next level up
Ebonite Cyclone
Roto-Grip Hustle
Storm Match


Most of the pro shop operators I've known, are familiar with all the local lanes and will suggest what they see working for their customers where you bowl.
It sounds like your pro shop #1 guy is that kind of guy, and offers a nice package deal.

Personally I've been pretty happy with balls suggested by the PSO's I have dealt with, so I wouldn't be afraid to go with what they are suggesting.

Most of the balls in the category will be reactive, the others urethanes / plastic they would probably not suggest for a new bowler.

Click on the shop icon at the top of the screen , then go to balls / entry performance and that should show some of the balls your PSO was suggesting. You can also go to Balls/ performance and see some more ( these might be considered the next step up).
Good Luck

[Aslan]

There are other series of balls in that range that are popular in addition to the Rhino series
Columbia Scout
Storm Tropical Breeze / Tropical Strom
900 Global Boost

Also popular / might be in the next level up
Ebonite Cyclone
Roto-Grip Hustle
Storm Match


With the exception of the Rotogrip Hustle and Storm Match....all of Tony's other recommendations are exactly what I'd suggest. The Tropical Breeze is a VERY common entry-level ball. The Ebonite Cyclone is probably the BEST bang for your buck at the entry level...the anchor on my Tuesday team throws an Ebonite Cyclone and averages over 200 with it. And the 900 Global Boost is quickly becoming one of the better entry level balls on the market. And the DV8 Diva series is also a solid entry-level series with a good deal of perforamance...but a little pricier than the other options.

I'm not as impressed with Hammer, Columbia300, Track, Radical, or Motiv in terms of their entry-level stuff. If I HAD to pick one of them...the Columbia300 Scout reactive is probably the best from that group. And I wouldn't recommend Motiv to anyone under any circumstances....not only because of their questionable business ethics...but their entry-level stuff is lackluster and you're going to pay a premium in $$ just for the Motiv name. I also wouldn't recommend Rotogrip....just because I actually recommended the Rotogrip Wrecker to a friend of mine when he purchased his first ball...and that ball was HORRIBLE.

I personally like Radical/Brunswick...and you can't go wrong with the Danger Zone or the Rhino series...maybe a little pricier for a first time ball purchase...but probably more performance than the other choices without being "too much" performance.

To be honest...if I was a newbie and could buy ANY ball on the market to learn with and get better...it would be "hands down" the Storm Hy Road. It's probably the most successful ball of the last 5 years, it has a relatively low price point, and you definitely won't outgrow it in the ball's lifespan. I haven't heard ONE bad comment about the Hy Road and it's the longest running bowling ball currently available...by a wide margin.

[JasonNJ]

The Ebonite Cyclone is an excellent ball. Diana Zavjalova won the USBC Queens throwing the Cyclone a few years back.

[larry mc]

get the cheapest entry level reactive ball he has , u r gunna get a higher end ball at the end of league when u know alot more about the sport

[rv driver]

When I was shopping for my first ball, the owner, a house pro whom I had known in the past, suggested that I just buy a plastic ball and get out there on the lanes and have fun relearning the basics before worrying too much about ball reaction. I'm beginning to think he was right. Gotta get your steps, swing and timing down before you begin to worry about revs. Plus you can use the plastic ball as your spare ball later on as you're building an arsenal.

[Aslan]

The only problem with starting with a plastic ball is it'll be harder to see the results as your release improves.

Bad Release = ball goes straight

Good Release = ball goes straight

[rv driver]

The only problem with starting with a plastic ball is it'll be harder to see the results as your release improves.

Bad Release = ball goes straight

Good Release = ball goes straight
That's true enough, however, I think by the time you begin thinking "release," you'd have the other basics down and would be ready for a reactive ball. I did go ahead and buy a reactive ball first, so obviously I didn't heed his advice. But good point, man!

[Aslan]

That's true enough, however, I think by the time you begin thinking "release," you'd have the other basics down and would be ready for a reactive ball. I did go ahead and buy a reactive ball first, so obviously I didn't heed his advice. But good point, man!

Don't get me wrong...I'd rather new bowlers follow the plastic ball advice than go out and buy some pro performance assymetric core monster. Especially the older, slower speed bowlers. I've seen more than one example of an old timer with a suitcase release who is frustrated beyond frustrated because his new high-end ball can't stay right of the headpin when thrown 8mph. :confused:

[rv driver]

Don't get me wrong...I'd rather new bowlers follow the plastic ball advice than go out and buy some pro performance assymetric core monster. Especially the older, slower speed bowlers. I've seen more than one example of an old timer with a suitcase release who is frustrated beyond frustrated because his new high-end ball can't stay right of the headpin when thrown 8mph. :confused:
Plus, most beginners will play on a lighter-oil, THS condition, which isn't a good match for the hook monsters. My first ball was a DV8 Misfit red, which was as much ball as anyone would want as a beginner on the house shots in my area. That ball works really well for me still.

[JCM]

My first ball was an ebonite cyclone. That ball thought we how to bowl. I still have it but it cracked about the bridge. It was that ball that made me realize that you don't have to crank your wrist over the top to make the ball hook, and it doesn't have to be top end to strike and score well. Now since then I've moved into higher performance gear, but I'd definitely suggest a cyclone to anyone looking to learn.