Surface Changes - How long do they last?

[Phonetek]

When you change the surface of your ball, like for example a urethane ball that you sand they typically shine up pretty quick and it's very noticeable. Regardless of the cover stock I would imagine that holds true for any. How many games do you use it before you refresh that surface? Since each time especially when sanding it you're removing cover stock, do you keep track of what surface it is and how many times you do it? Especially a full resurface because you're taking off the most amount of cover stock when you do it. Eventually you'll remove the ball badges and numbers.

[Amyers]

When you change the surface of your ball, like for example a urethane ball that you sand they typically shine up pretty quick and it's very noticeable. Regardless of the cover stock I would imagine that holds true for any. How many games do you use it before you refresh that surface? Since each time especially when sanding it you're removing cover stock, do you keep track of what surface it is and how many times you do it? Especially a full resurface because you're taking off the most amount of cover stock when you do it. Eventually you'll remove the ball badges and numbers.

You'd have to be taking off a crazy amount to remove badges or serials if that's happening find someone else to do your resurfacing. Otherwise it depends on the ball and what you want. A 1000 grit oil hog I might resurface after every use, lots of people found the Storm Rocket to perform much better with some lane shine. Just as a general rule if I want to keep the original conditions balls with lots of surface probably every 10 games or so, balls with polished covers 30-50 games, everything depends on what you want from the ball.

I've had balls I've resurfaced completely 5-10 times and the labels and serials still looked fine.

[bowl1820]

When you change the surface of your ball, like for example a urethane ball that you sand they typically shine up pretty quick and it's very noticeable.

On true Urethane balls the surface texture usually holds up a little longer than on Resin balls.


Regardless of the cover stock I would imagine that holds true for any. How many games do you use it before you refresh that surface?

The surface starts changing as soon as you roll your first ball, You should touch up the surface before each set. Generally the rule of thumb is about every 9 games though. Of course it all depends on surface grit (dull vs polished) and conditions, type of lanes etc. how long it lasts. A dry lane will dull a polished ball faster than a wet one.

This video will give you a idea how fast surfaces change.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AfsNDCInlk


Since each time especially when sanding it you're removing cover stock, do you keep track of what surface it is and how many times you do it?

A lot of bowlers keep a surface management log example:

click for larger imagr
https://s5.postimg.cc/xi7qwk9nn/sanding_log.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/xi7qwk9nn/)


Especially a full resurface because you're taking off the most amount of cover stock when you do it. Eventually you'll remove the ball badges and numbers.

A true "Resurface" is where you remove all the track, nicks, gouges and surface blemishes to make a ball look like new again. That's not done that often, Back in the day (pre-resin) it was said you could do that about 4-5 times.

But you don't see that kind of resurfacing done much these day, except if a ball has been damaged or a used ball plugged and/or for resale.

As for refinishing and minor surfaces adjustments basically there's no limit, other than if you've sanded to the point your removed all the labels. But most people probably won't have the ball that long.

A lot of Serial numbers can get sanded off easy, because some are not that deep and can / have to be re-engraved. The USBC Star Logo is just a manufacturing requirement, it would not need to be re-engraved.

As for names and logos, Once the ball is no longer identifiable by the brand name/logo and ball name it is no longer allowed to be used during USBC certified competition.

[RobLV1]

With reactive resin balls that are not polished, touch up surface after each set and resurface completely after about 50 games. Polished reactives should be touched up as soon as they begin to look a little dull, and resurfaced completely after 50-60 games.

[Davidjr113]

Pro shop here has a scanner, I sanded a ball on spinner with fresh 500 pad, it scanned at 871. After 3 games it scanned at 4000. Next week used fresh 500 pad again, bowled three games, cleaned it with Clean & Dull & it then scanned at about 2200.

There was a good, but lengthy, article on sanding in BTM and a good video on surface changes while bowling on Jayhawks website. Bottom line, if you use surface, and are serious about it, you gotta touch up every set

[bowl1820]

a good video on surface changes while bowling on Jayhawks website.

Here you go

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMwsO2JCZxY

[GrumpyCatFace]

So... it sounds like polished balls will get rougher, and dull balls will get shiny.

Are they drawn toward some kind of midpoint? Is there a certain roughness after say, 1000 games that every ball will end up with?

[bowl1820]

So... it sounds like polished balls will get rougher, and dull balls will get shiny.

Yes.


Are they drawn toward some kind of midpoint? Is there a certain roughness after say, 1000 games that every ball will end up with?

Yes.

All ball surfaces will change with use, polished balls will get duller and dull balls will shine up.

The old general rule of thumb was that the balls surface would wind up about a 600 US grit surface, given if you never resanded.

Now this was more when it was mostly wood lanes, because they have a lot more surface texture than synthetic lanes.

Now this changed over time to about 800 grit (which is about 1500- 2000 Fepa). Do to the synthetic lane surfaces and the change of coverstock materials.

One thing to remember also is that 1500-2000 grit is just a approximation, a general rule of thumb. Coverstock make up, Lane type, oil conditions etc. will affect what it really is, there could be a big variance +/- on that 2000 grit.

[Phonetek]

You'd have to be taking off a crazy amount to remove badges or serials if that's happening find someone else to do your resurfacing.

I've had balls I've resurfaced completely 5-10 times and the labels and serials still looked fine.

I had my equipment stolen out of my car years ago. As it turned out it was some neighborhood kids that broke in, took my stereo and a couple other things. Later I found the balls in the field near my place so they apparently just bowled them down the street. One of them was pretty severe, I had it resurfaced and it was saved but a LOT of surface had to be taken off to fix it. The badges were barely there. One more resurface they'd have been gone.

I've seen a few like that donated on the house ball racks. So, I did get all the balls back that were stolen and they were all usable with a little work. Never seen the stereo and other stuff again of course and had glass cubes in the car forever. No matter how hard you try you never get it all.

[Albundy]

I just took a clinic with monacelli and he said all pros keep one in their bag.i never tried one before. He did my pearl ball and sure enough the next ball was a strike then I said..so you turned my pearl into a solid? I also have a solid ball..he said ok now you have two balls that will strike...so..I was a little stumped by the need to resurface it...

[RobLV1]

I just took a clinic with monacelli and he said all pros keep one in their bag.i never tried one before. He did my pearl ball and sure enough the next ball was a strike then I said..so you turned my pearl into a solid? I also have a solid ball..he said ok now you have two balls that will strike...so..I was a little stumped by the need to resurface it...

The surface that you put on a bowling ball determines about 75% of the reaction that you are going to get (the core determines the other 25%). I've personally taken several sets of balls, one solid and one pearl with the same core and layout, and put the same surface on each. I would defy 99% of bowlers to see any difference in ball reaction.

As a former marketing executive, the thought of being able to sell three of the same product (a solid, a pearl, and a hybrid) to uninformed consumers would have been like dying and going to heaven!

[vdubtx]

The average bowling ball is 8.585 inches in diameter. The minimum allowable size by USBC is 8.500. Using the most common pad of 2000 grit. You would have to bowl 650 plus games using the recommended technique before your ball would be in danger of becoming illegal. Sanding your ball to maintain the surface is safe for consistent use.

I copy/pasta the above from a blog post on surface changes:

LINK (https://ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/bowling-ball-surface-maintenance-why-its-important-and-how-to-do-it)

[bowl1820]

The average bowling ball is 8.585 inches in diameter. The minimum allowable size by USBC is 8.500. Using the most common pad of 2000 grit. You would have to bowl 650 plus games using the recommended technique before your ball would be in danger of becoming illegal. Sanding your ball to maintain the surface is safe for consistent use.

There is no minimum size requirement anymore for the end user (bowler), that was dropped years ago. It just has to have the Brand Name/Logo, Ball Name, Serial Number still visible (Serial can be re-engraved) The USBC Star Logo is also just a manufacturing requirement, it would not need to be re-engraved.


Question to USBC:
Does the rule for minimum ball size (8.500”) in the "Ball Manufacturing
Specifications"

Does it apply to a bowlers drilled ball?

Example:
Bowler has a older ball that do to shrinkage or resurfacing is below the
min. of 8.5", Is it still legal for use?

USBC reply:

Thank you for your question. Specifications for diameter (circumference) and roundness are manufacturing specifications only, they are not for the end user or the drilled ball. In the example you provided, the smaller ball would still be allowed for use during USBC certified competition as long as it still had the required markings (Brand Name/Logo, Ball Name, Serial Number) so the ball can be identified. For a long time there was size and roundness requirement on the drilled bowling balls at tournaments, but those specifications have since been removed.

Thank you,

Jason Milligan
Research Technician
Equipment Specifications & Certifications / Sport Bowling

[vdubtx]

Interesting, thanks for the info Bowl. :cool: