Question about my Columbia yellow dot bleeder ball from 1978..........

[Hammer]

When I bought it it was like a nice candy apple red. After years of use it started turning a darker red and then now it is almost black. The guy in our pro shop told me it was a bleeder ball. Today I looked for the ball pin and can't find the pin. Would the pin actually be the yellow dot that is by the name of the ball? It has to have a pin right to mark the top of the weight block. I was going to trash it but I kept it and put a 400 surface on it. I am 73 and my ball speed at it's fastest is 11.5 to 12mph. Because of my slow speed now this ball works great for me on our synthetic 43 foot pattern. After I figure out where to stand on the approach I get a good hook from this ball. It is 15#. It was my first finger tip ball in 1978. It is an old ball but works great for me. Depending on the lanes I sometimes use it as a strike ball. My highest game with it was a 229. The serial number is 8N54258.

[J Anderson]

When I bought it it was like a nice candy apple red. After years of use it started turning a darker red and then now it is almost black. The guy in our pro shop told me it was a bleeder ball. Today I looked for the ball pin and can't find the pin. Would the pin actually be the yellow dot that is by the name of the ball? It has to have a pin right to mark the top of the weight block. I was going to trash it but I kept it and put a 400 surface on it. I am 73 and my ball speed at it's fastest is 11.5 to 12mph. Because of my slow speed now this ball works great for me on our synthetic 43 foot pattern. After I figure out where to stand on the approach I get a good hook from this ball. It is 15#. It was my first finger tip ball in 1978. It is an old ball but works great for me. Depending on the lanes I sometimes use it as a strike ball. My highest game with it was a 229. The serial number is 8N54258.

At this point it really doesn't matter whether you or your PSO can find the pin. It's not like you're going to have every thing plugged and re-drilled with a different layout. With a Yellow dot the layouts are pretty much limited to finger weight, thumb weight, and/or sideweight. If you need to use it as a spare ball you do not want more side weight. Most likely if you need to have anything done it will be to adjust the grip to changes in your hand. Most of us need to have the span shortened and the pitches changed as we get older.

[bowl1820]

Would the pin actually be the yellow dot that is by the name of the ball? It has to have a pin right to mark the top of the weight block.

Yes that's the pin.

[Hammer]

Yes that's the pin.

I kind of figured that was the top of the pin marking. The pin is in a weird spot. The way the finger holes are drilled the yellow dot lands right between my finger holes and my thumb hole. When my fingers are in the ball the yellow dot lands right around the base of my middle finger. I have no idea why the pro shop guy put it in that location. Usually the top of the pin on my other balls is around the top of my ring finger hole or at the top of my ring finger and a little to the left. I am left handed by the way. With the slow speed I have now because of age and bad knees I can stand with my slide foot arch anywhere between board 20 and 25 and have it come back to the pocket. I gave the ball a 400 surface and it works great. I can't remember if these yellow dot balls were soft plastic or polyester balls. This ball is 42 years old this month. I got it in September of 1978.

[bowl1820]

I kind of figured that was the top of the pin marking. The pin is in a weird spot. The way the finger holes are drilled the yellow dot lands right between my finger holes and my thumb hole.

yes Pin in the palm, that was pretty much the standard way spare balls were drilled back in the day. It's just got a pancake weight block in it, This layout was used simply for stability and a predictable ball reaction.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ilkAAOSwDuleJc3f/s-l300.jpg
http://123bowl.com/123bowl/cache/file/2D84E234-9EB1-4E9B-B598CF2DD41DBF7C.jpg



I can't remember if these yellow dot balls were soft plastic or polyester balls. This ball is 42 years old this month. I got it in September of 1978.

Plastic balls are polyester balls they just call them plastic. Yellow dots are polyester balls they just had a resin in them that leached out to the surface over time and this is what made them hook a little more.

[Hammer]

yes Pin in the palm, that was pretty much the standard way spare balls were drilled back in the day. It's just got a pancake weight block in it, This layout was used simply for stability and a predictable ball reaction.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ilkAAOSwDuleJc3f/s-l300.jpg
http://123bowl.com/123bowl/cache/file/2D84E234-9EB1-4E9B-B598CF2DD41DBF7C.jpg




Plastic balls are polyester balls they just call them plastic. Yellow dots are polyester balls they just had a resin in them that leached out to the surface over time and this is what made them hook a little more.

Thanks for all of the great info. It amazes me the action this ball has. Sometimes the lanes are just right for using this ball as my strike ball. My highest game with it was a 229. If the lanes are not right for it then I use my Blue Hammer urethane ball as my strike ball. Yellow dot has a 400 surface and the Blue Hammer has a 600 surface. Our house oil patterns are 43' long. I just bowl on a senior league now at 12PM on Mondays. Good luck with your bowling.