Transition & Adjustments

[Cdolcejr]

Hi All,

I need some help with adjustments when the lanes start to transition. I’ve always seemed to struggle when the lanes start changing (usually in game 2 of a three-game set). I recently started using video to record league night to try and analyze what’s happening. My guess is that as the head oil is being removed, my ball is starting to hook earlier and is eventually rolling out/hitting ‘light’. I watch how my ball goes through the pins and see exactly when this happens. I’ve tried to move into more oil, but that hasn’t helped and seems to make the ball hit even lighter. I suspect this is due to other bowlers playing inside of me and it’s already burnt up by the time I adjust.
I’m thinking I can tackle this in a couple different ways:

1. Switch to a pearl reactive that is cleaner through heads w/ a sharper move down-lane and move in off my strike ball as needed.
OR
2. Play the same line as my strike ball but polish the symmetrical ball I used in game 3 to try to delay the hook a little bit, creating a little bit sharper move in the backend.

However, the whole point of this post is because I’m curious to hear how others would adjust to the transition I’m seeing. Thanks in advance!

Link: Summer League Week 4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeWiesbaCMI&t=307s

Link: Summer League Week 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIZgcGtWlXc&t=347s


Background:

I’m usually a 220+ Average (202 currently coming back from Covid Break and a hand injury) with medium speed/RPM) bowling in a 4 Person Mixed League

Most people are using reactive equipment

I’m using an earlier rolling ball (Solid, ASYM, RG: 2.48, Diff: 0.039, Pin Up, 2000 Grit Abralon No Polish) in the first couple of games and then switch to a ball that is a little bit later (Solid, SYM, RG: 2.54, Diff: 0.032, Pin Up, 2000 Grit Abralon no polish)

[RobLV1]

Because you are not an ultra-hi rev player, you might try reversing your ball choices. Try starting with the higher RG solid while you are playing outside (from the video, it looks like you were playing pretty far outside on one lane), and switching to the stronger ASYM as you move in to help you get the ball back.

[Cdolcejr]

Because you are not an ultra-hi rev player, you might try reversing your ball choices. Try starting with the higher RG solid while you are playing outside (from the video, it looks like you were playing pretty far outside on one lane), and switching to the stronger ASYM as you move in to help you get the ball back.

Thanks for the reply Rob. Definitely get what your saying. It makes a lot of sense and in theory it would work, but there were a couple of things that prevented me from switching around the order of ball choice. In warmups, I actually did try the higher RG ball on the same strike line and it was really struggling to make it back to the pocket, so I decided to go with the stronger, earlier rolling ball. Another reason to start with that one is that it gives me the perfect look through the pins during game one and part of game two. Since it's earlier rolling, I have a hard time moving in with it because I get to a point where it stops turning the corner for me (especially since plugging the balance hole).

Another thing that I haven't done was changed my release at all since coming back from a hand injury. Changing axis rotation was a huge part of my game. I'm 100% healthy again and ready to incorporate that back in. When I really get around the ball, it goes down a little bit further and turns a little bit harder on the backend which should help me get through game 2 once the ball starts coming up light/burning up. So I'm envisioning a progression along these lines for league this week:

-Game 1: Start w/ early rolling ball with normal release and get lined up.

-End of Game 1/Beginning of Game 2: Start using more axis rotation as soon as I see my ball start to deflect. Ideally I'd like to try this on the fill shot of the 10 frame if I'm fortunate enough to have one.

-Game 2: If that works, keep going with more axis rotation and move in as needed.

-Game 2/3: Use fill shot in 10th (again hopefully I'll have one) to use a pearl asym with max hand to see if I can get a look I like for game 3. If it goes well, I'll do that for game 3 and keep moving in as needed. The pearl is super clean through the heads and really snaps on the back end so I'm thinking that would be a good choice when the other ball starts coming up light in the pocket. It also makes it super easy to play deeper because it always seems to get back to the pocket.

[RobLV1]

At your average, I would highly recommend going with a three ball arsenal, rather than two. The middle ball should be your benchmark ball; the one that you start with. From there, you can determine if you need to go weaker or stronger, depending on who else is bowling on the pair, the weather, and the topography of that particular pair of lanes. Starting with your strongest ball is a philosophy that goes all the way back to the seventies and eighties. Modern bowling has effectively squashed that notion.

[Aslan]

At your average, I would highly recommend going with a three ball arsenal...

Up until that point...I agree with RobM. If you're averaging over 190, I have no idea why you're only carrying 2 strike balls.

Generally, MY advice...is you should use one of two strategies...depending on which of these situations you're bowling in:

Situation 1: You versus primarily lefties, 2-game leagues, or league nights where you have your line all to yourself.

Situation 2: All other situations.

Since you're likely to almost always fall into Situation 2....

You start with your strongest ball. You move left, based on what you leave, until you hit weak (leave flat 10s, strike but the ball exits right, etc..).

Then you ball down. Repeat above.

Then you switch to a skid/flip ball designed to combat "carry down" at the breakpoint. IF you in Situation #1...you don't switch to the skid/flip ball because there likely isn't any carry down.

What do these 3 balls look "like"? Well, thats hard to say exactly...because it would be catered to the bowler. An older bowler with slower speed isn't going to throw the same arsenal as a bowler with very little hand but a ton of speed. However, gun to my head, this would be the "guide":

Ball 1: Symmetric, Solid, < 2.50 RG, matte/sanded
Ball 2: Something with a 2000-3000 surface and maybe a 0.041-0.052 differential
Ball 3: Asymmetric, Pearl, 0.047-0.054 differential, 360-1000 (polished), with a strong core.

I'd always recommend a 4th ball...because if there isn't any carry down..and lanes transition...you'd like a "Ball 3" rather than trying to mess around with speed/hand position/release/approach to get Ball #2 to work. Something with < 0.054 differential that is weaker than Ball 2.

I think your issue is you're essentially throwing 2 sanded solids...so when the lanes transition...you don't really have much to ball down to. You're relying solely on the difference in RGs. While it's a significant difference...and I think it's a workable Ball1/Ball2 option...by the time you get to Game 3...there's really no way that limited arsenal is going to hold up.

As to answering which option (of your two choices) is best? Well, like I said...it depends on "why" your ball isn't carrying. If it's not carry down, and it's just lane pattern breakdown....either of those two options would be equally successful. If it IS carry down, only option #1 is going to have a chance of working...and it HAS to be a ball designed to counter that carry down.

There are also some videos by Mo Pinel on Youtube where he talks about what 3 or 4 balls you should get. Unfortunately, he gets a bit too much "into the weeds" with ball drilling.

[Cdolcejr]

Thanks Rob & Aslan. I'll go into a little more detail on what I bring with me on a typical league night (spoiler alert, I have a 3-ball arsenal + a spare ball so 4 in total). I usually just end up using 1 or 2 of the three strike balls I have. You'll rarely see me use all three on a given night unless one of the balls is just not giving me a good look. Another note- I usually don’t polish my equipment because the backend gets more difficult to control however, I realize that I need a different look for mid-game 2 and game 3. I also don’t think of my arsenal as strongest to weakest. I look at it as earliest hook to latest hook.

Current Arsenal Brought to League:

Ball 1: Pyramid Divergent Path (RG: 2.48, Diff: 0.039, Core: Asymmetrical, Finish: 2000 grit Abralon Sanded) This is the ball I typically start with.

Ball 2: Pyramid Pathogen (RG: 2.54, Diff: 0.032, Core: Symmetrical, Finish: 2000 grit Abralon Sanded) This is the light green ball I have been switching to in Game 3

Ball 3 : Pyramid Force Pearl (RG: 2.53, Diff: 0.051, Core: Asymmetrical, Finish: 500 grit Abralon Polished) I haven’t used it yet in league, but I will try using it as my ball for game 3.

With that said, I'm a big believer in versatility. I don't think the first move should always be to change balls. I'm comfortable tweaking my release to get the ball to do exactly what I need it to do in a given situation, however you're always going to get to that point where you need to change balls. This micro adjustment isn’t meant to replace ball changes, it gives me a period of transition into a ball change. If I can change axis rotation and get the same ball to go through the pins with less deflection, I will be able to use it longer. If it's hitting like a truck, why change balls the moment it starts to deflect?

I noticed you mentioned Ball 3 would be an Asym Pearl- sounds exactly like the Force Pearl. Then I noticed that the Force Pearl is one of the balls in your bag :)

I’ll report back once I have video from league this week.

[Aslan]

I noticed you mentioned Ball 3 would be an Asym Pearl- sounds exactly like the Force Pearl. Then I noticed that the Force Pearl is one of the balls in your bag :)

I’ll report back once I have video from league this week.

I kinda agree and disagree on the ball change versus other changes. I think you make lateral move changes...maybe some vertical targeting changes to "tweek" things...then you change balls. I really try not to mess with speed and delivery unless I absolutely have to because you get into timing problems. If you're a pro, and you can easily go from a 4-step to a 5-step to a 3-step seamlessly...good for you, more power to ya. But I see SO many amateurs try to mess with their release and speed to try and "fight" the ball or "fight" the lanes...and all they end up doing is screwing up their timing...which is the one thing you simply can't be successful with if you screw it up.

As to your ball choices, the Pyramid Force Pearl is a GREAT skid/flip option thus far. I'm gonna put an "asterisk" next to that statement because I haven't got many games on it yet and I've run into a little snag that I'm working on...but it has the "potential" to be the best ball I've ever thrown. I don't know if it'll be able to be better than the Brunswick Fortera Exile...or the Reaxx Pearl...but it's an impressive ball IF:

1) You use it in Games 2-4...you gotta be patient.

2) You keep the surface maintained.

My "snag" that I'm working on right now is that I've tried to "perfect" the surface by dialing it down a bit and now it doesn't have that same POP it did early on. I like my skid/flip balls to be sanded to a 240 or 360 or 500 or 800 surface...then you hit them with some Royal Compound and some polish. By "skipping steps" in the surfacing process, you "theoretically" get a more angular reaction.

Well, with the Force Pearl, I originally surfaced it at 500/800/Storm Step1/ and then resin polish. But, that was hooking too much. I was having to move too far inside off my line. So, I dropped it down to 800/1000/Step1/polish. Well, that really, really caused the ball to lose it's "pop". So, I'm gonna try to take the Step 1 out of the process and see if I can just go 800/1000/polish and see what reaction that gives me.

The Force Pearl, thus far, seems to be a cross between the Fortera Exile and the Melee Jab. It has the same smooth glide through the front 2/3 of the lanes...and a tremendous backend. The problem is controllability. Like the Melee Jab...it doesn't tolerate release inconsistencies...which is common among any assymetric core ball.

But, just to give you some perspective...last night I took this ball out..even WITH the current surfacing issues...I took it out in the 5th frame of Game 3 of a 4-Game league...after my Special Ops deflected and left me a stone 8-pin. X, X, X, 9 /, X, X X 9. Next Game: 9 /, 8 1, X, 8 1, X, X, X, X, X, 8 -. And just for the record...the '8 1' in the second frame I missed by a ton right, the '8 1' in the fourth frame my foot stuck and I fell off the shot, and the 8-count in the 10th was a pocket 7-10. Count em up... 12 strikes on 18 shots. And if you take out "operator error"...the ball probably could have struck at least 14 out of 18...if not more.

Current Pinpal Stats: Pyramid Force Pearl

Games: 23

Average: 178.26
Average (all single-pins picked up): 184.74
High Game: 226

First Ball Average: 8.72
Strike %: 42%

[RobLV1]

As a long-time writer for BTM, I take a lot of responsibility for encouraging bowlers to use ball changes as one of their primary adjustments during league bowling. Unfortunately bowling, along with most everything else in the world, has changed. It is very important to know and understand your bowling balls, however trying to set up a "progression" of balls to use week in and week out is a fools errand. Why? Because synthetic lanes are getting older and older and topographic differences between lanes is getting to be much more important than simple oil transition. A ball progression focuses on what should work as the oil dries up, but topography can take that plan directly to the garbage can. Lateral moves (always inward as moving more outside into the area that is already dry is a fools errand), speed changes, changes in axis tilt and rotation, should always come first. Ball changes need to be made to compliment these changes, NOT to keep from making them.

[Cdolcejr]

As a long-time writer for BTM, I take a lot of responsibility for encouraging bowlers to use ball changes as one of their primary adjustments during league bowling. Unfortunately bowling, along with most everything else in the world, has changed. It is very important to know and understand your bowling balls, however trying to set up a "progression" of balls to use week in and week out is a fools errand. Why? Because synthetic lanes are getting older and older and topographic differences between lanes is getting to be much more important than simple oil transition. A ball progression focuses on what should work as the oil dries up, but topography can take that plan directly to the garbage can. Lateral moves (always inward as moving more outside into the area that is already dry is a fools errand), speed changes, changes in axis tilt and rotation, should always come first. Ball changes need to be made to compliment these changes, NOT to keep from making them.


For me, it's not about having a set progression of "I'll use Ball A in game 1 and Ball B in game 3". I always have a route mapped out beforehand in my head in an effort to be as prepared as possible for anything that might happen. The more prepared I am for the changing environment, the faster and more accurately I can react to it (or be proactive). If anything, I'm open to changing anything at any time. For example, I won't start with Ball A just because that's what I always start with. If Ball A is not working the way I want it to in warmups, I won't hesitate to change it.

Right now, I'm in the discovery phase of really understanding my pin action and what types of adjustments work best for me, so I'm devoting this summer league to leaving everything on the table; trying everything and anything just for the sake of knowing what will work best and what might not work for me. As for topography, I get what you're saying however the lanes at the house I bowl at on were replaced 5 years ago and still play practically new. I notice slight differences and tendencies between pairs on one side of the house vs the other side of the house, but the house plays consistently for the most part. I know that will change as time goes on.

[RobLV1]

It really doesn't matter how new the lanes are. The panels are only about 3/8" thick. They are attached to wooden frames. Change humidity or temperature, and that wood changes. In today's bowling, topography is ALWAYS something to consider. If the lanes are the same, crack open a Bud and celebrate! LOL

[J Anderson]

It really doesn't matter how new the lanes are. The panels are only about 3/8" thick. They are attached to wooden frames. Change humidity or temperature, and that wood changes. In today's bowling, topography is ALWAYS something to consider. If the lanes are the same, crack open a Bud and celebrate! LOL

I sort of like when there’s a significant difference between the two lanes. I have a harder time stringing strikes when the difference is subtle.

[Aslan]

I'm not necessarily disagreeing with Rob about the 'should' or 'ideal'. As I've stated many, many times before...usually where Rob and I diverge is in the practical application of ideas...not the hypothetical.

In an ideal world, I'd never use a progression...I'd never limit myself to lateral moves and ball changes and vertical targeting changes. And I'd try 20 different balls in practice, 3 different lines, 3 different speeds, 3 different types of approaches, and 3 different hand positions. No doubt. And for anyone that doesn't think age and topography play at least a small part...they've never bowled in an older house, or on wood lanes, or on a split house with lanes on opposite sides (versus lanes all along one wall).

BUT...how do we apply the ideal to the practical? How do we decide how to start league play when we have two shots on each lane prior to starting league play? How do we put an arsenal together when we are limited to 2-5 balls per year or per 2 years? Especially when some of us can't even afford to adjust the surface on them more than 2-3 times per year? How does the average bowler...that can barely hit a 4-6 board target at the arrows consistently while staying in time...change their footwork, speed, wrist position...all while staying in time and maintaining that balanced position that is vital to delivering a good shot?

And THEN...there's that pesky thing where...in order to figure out ANY of this...whether you need a ball change or axis tilt change or speed change, etc... you need to make a very good shot and see the result. So, if you miss your mark or your speed is off or your balance stinks or your ball choice is bad or you're playing the lanes wrong to begin with...then you probably don't have enough information to even know what you SHOULD do or WHY.

[Aslan]

To follow up on my last post, I guess you have to look at bowlers this way:

You have a HUGE segment...lets say 45% that bowl for fun. NONE of what we've said...or what we ever say...matters to them. They care more about the color of the ball than even how it fits their hand. As long as it doesn't hurt their fingers...and it doesn't get stuck on their thumb when they try to throw it (badly)...they don't care. They are almost just as proud d of their career low 89 game as they are of their career high 160 game. The fact that we care...they think is hilarious and sad.

The next biggest segment is the 30% (or so) of bowlers that "try", but aren't much better. They can't hit a 2-3 board target at the arrows. They have horrible form. They average 120-160...but what they score is more based on luck than anything else. Their main focus is drinking and having fun...scores are secondary. They don't want to get better...they don't really care. Bowling is just something to do in the fall/winter that gets them out of the house. They aren't "horrible"...and they "try" to score. They might have a fingertip drilling and actually get pointers from the pro shop about what ball to buy. But, they ain't putting together an arsenal or carrying spare balls or asking for advice. And if they DO ask for advice or get unsolicited advice...they likely won't follow it.

Then you have the higher average "Old Timers"...about 18% of the game and falling. They've been around forever...they are dying off...and they'll regail you with stories of how they met Johnny Petraglia at a bar or they used to throw a rubber ball. And, many of them can still average in the 180s. They actually learned how to bowl the right way...and as long as the centers keep putting down a THS with the track the dominant place to strike...they will keep hammering that second arrow and hitting that pocket until they crack a hip, blow out their back, get arthritis in their wrist, or tear their rotator cuff. What they WON'T do...is change...or learn...or adapt. If the track dries up...they will switch balls and stay in the track. If that doesn't work...they will change balls again. They will NEVER listen to you, me, or even Johnny Petraglia. They have been playing this game too long to care what we have to say about anything.

The next segment can be divided into two...I'll take the smaller group first: low skill/high knowledge...about 5% of bowlers. These are your "tacticians". Your "physicists". Your "Mo Pinels...minus the skill". They love talking bowling on the internet and talking about ball specs and ball motion and ball drilling...but they aren't very good bowlers. They lack the "skill". They try and they try and they try. And they are very coachable...they'll try anything and everything..and probably have...but they'll never be a contender because they just don't have "it".

The other side of that coin is the high skill/low knowledge...about 10% of bowlers. These guys...usually guys...usually younger and physically gifted...can do amazing things with a bowling ball. But, they tend to be the opposite of the 5% listed above. They don't care about ball specs, drilling, lane conditions, blah, blah, blah. They throw the ball hard, they rev it up, it spins....it knocks pins down. Telling them they need to do things differently just makes them mad because, "who are you? They average 10, 20, 30 pins more than you!"

And that leaves us the final 2%. The high skill/high knowledge bowler. The guys/gals who:

1) Care.
2) Want to bowl better.
3) Are still young enough that they can/will learn.
4) Have enough physical ability to take what they learn and apply it.
5) Are not so physically gifted that they can't be taught.

The shame of bowling (as a sport) is that those are the 2% of bowlers we are speaking to when we discuss humidity, topography, adjusting to lane conditions, ball layouts, ball specifications, etc...

Take it from someone who spends his entire fall/winter season being mocked by his teammates for taking notes and changing balls after a strike (because you can tell it hit weak and won't strike the next time) and paying close attention to where I stand and target (laterally and vertically). Even in the highest level of leagues...98% of bowlers either know everything or don't care. And if they bowl badly...they either don't care...or the oil machine is to blame.

rant over

[Cdolcejr]

At your average, I would highly recommend going with a three ball arsenal, rather than two. The middle ball should be your benchmark ball; the one that you start with. From there, you can determine if you need to go weaker or stronger, depending on who else is bowling on the pair, the weather, and the topography of that particular pair of lanes. Starting with your strongest ball is a philosophy that goes all the way back to the seventies and eighties. Modern bowling has effectively squashed that notion.


It really doesn't matter how new the lanes are. The panels are only about 3/8" thick. They are attached to wooden frames. Change humidity or temperature, and that wood changes. In today's bowling, topography is ALWAYS something to consider. If the lanes are the same, crack open a Bud and celebrate! LOL

So right on cue, my way of thinking bit me in the butt. I struggled last night because the lanes were completely different than what I've seen over the first few weeks in league. The pattern was the same but the lanes started off hooking a lot, and then by the third game the carry down was making it so that my ball wouldn't even get back to the pocket. I was able to recover and shoot 609 after starting w/ a 165 game, but this just highlights the fact that my way of thinking about and approaching the game is flawed.

With that said, I definitely see what you're saying with topography and realize this game is not/never will be an exact science. It's failing to accept this that has been my downfall. Going forward, I'm going to do what you said. I'm going to start warmups with my benchmark ball no matter what, see what happens and adjust from there. I have a ball in my bag that is stronger/earlier than my benchmark ball, and a another ball that is longer than the benchmark ball that I can switch to if the lanes require it on a given night. No more preconceived notions on how the lanes may or may not play. I just have to go in and expect the unexpected and then adjust accordingly throughout the night to try and maintain carry to the best of my ability.

[RobLV1]

At the risk of re-opening an old can of worms, I'll say it again, in a different way: playing for carry down is a fools errand! I have had tapes taken after league play on a part of the lane past the end of the pattern. While there are streaks of oil, none are more than 2 units of oil. As we saw not too long ago when the USBC was dictating a minimum of 3 units of oil from gutter to gutter, modern reactive balls do not "read" two units of oil, they just don't. While the pros throwing urethane balls on PBA patterns do create significant amounts of carry down that will affect ball reaction, league bowlers are just not accurate enough to build up readable carry down on one part of the lane. The best advice I can give any league bowler today is to NEVER move right (for a right hander) when the ball fails to come back. When this happens, it is either because of too much friction (burn), or negative topography that has been exposed by the removal of oil by reactive bowling balls. Those bowlers who are open-minded enough to follow this advice ALWAYS show a vast improvement in their games!

[Cdolcejr]

At the risk of re-opening an old can of worms, I'll say it again, in a different way: playing for carry down is a fools errand! I have had tapes taken after league play on a part of the lane past the end of the pattern. While there are streaks of oil, none are more than 2 units of oil. As we saw not too long ago when the USBC was dictating a minimum of 3 units of oil from gutter to gutter, modern reactive balls do not "read" two units of oil, they just don't. While the pros throwing urethane balls on PBA patterns do create significant amounts of carry down that will affect ball reaction, league bowlers are just not accurate enough to build up readable carry down on one part of the lane. The best advice I can give any league bowler today is to NEVER move right (for a right hander) when the ball fails to come back. When this happens, it is either because of too much friction (burn), or negative topography that has been exposed by the removal of oil by reactive bowling balls. Those bowlers who are open-minded enough to follow this advice ALWAYS show a vast improvement in their games!

And I think that there-in lies my problem. It is misunderstanding on my part. I am mistaking the ball burning up for carrydown. Therefore, my adjustments to combat the transition have been opposite of what they should be. I think I have my mind wrapped around that concept so now I'll put it into action.

[RobLV1]

And I think that there-in lies my problem. It is misunderstanding on my part. I am mistaking the ball burning up for carrydown. Therefore, my adjustments to combat the transition have been opposite of what they should be. I think I have my mind wrapped around that concept so now I'll put it into action.

If you can do that, I guarantee that it will help you to raise your average. Many, many long time bowlers just refuse to stop playing for carry down. I try to convince them once, then I just shrug my shoulders and figure that they are on their own. I guess that's what comes with getting old... trying to get people to relearn something that they think they already know is just not worth the effort!

[boatman37]

I struggled to understand the 'carry-down' issue too until one day it was extreme and I could see the ball just stop skidding very early and roll straight. But then again I'm a visual learner so need to see something to understand it. That was when I started understanding the concept. It was like the ball died 2/3 of the way down. The hook stopped and it appeared to lose speed also. I'm still not an expert at spotting it but understand that it happens and why. I know now that if my ball starts out good then suddenly starts hitting light with no other changes then I either need to move into the oil or ball down