What is going on with these lanes?

[Cdolcejr]

I've just completed my summer league and I did not bowl consistently well at all. The lane transition seemed to be consistent all summer but no matter what I did, I could not figure it out.

In the first game, I'd have crisp ball reaction and the ability to bury the ball at will. By the end of the first game, the lanes would typically stop hooking for me no matter what I do (i.e. ball up, move right, slow down). I could not get the ball to finish in the pocket anymore. Typically this would be due to burn-up or roll out, but I do not think that's the case. When I would move left (around 3rd arrow), I'd wash out, and if I balled down and stayed put, the ball would barely finish and I'd leave buckets constantly. In warm ups, I was able to play deeper on the lane, but once the ball stopped hooking, I could no longer move inside.

Some Details:

-I bowled with older folks on my team. It's a 4 person mixed league and most bowlers are lower averages.
-The lane pattern/oil type is unknown. Nobody at the center will tell you what they put down. For some reason it's a huge secret.
-I suspect that it is some kind of reverse block because the outsides are oily to start and the insides hook more.
-Everyone on my team was using reactive resin each game.
-My ball is a heavy oil ball but is older, has 100's of games on it but is well maintained and cleaned/de-oiled.
-This same trend of the ball not finishing happened every week.

I don't understand how I could start so well in game 1 and then the lanes transition so drastically to the point that I literally have nothing work for me. Just totally perplexed. It literally feels like open bowling after game 1. I wasn't the only one struggling. Many higher average bowlers seemed to see 10-20 pins off their average by the end of the league which tells me it's more than likely the lane pattern across the board.

To back this up, watch the below video. It's a decent night, but one in which I had great ball reaction in game 1 and then it got worse by games 2 and 3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVvwE2ZFIBQ&t=178s

What would you do if you were bowling on these conditions?

[RobLV1]

First of all, when you start around the second arrow, you never move right! Your ball was burning up, but you never made the one move that you should have made; move left and ball up, not down. You don't have enough revs to move much to the left and still get your ball back, but by ball up when you move left, you let the ball make the move for you.

[Cdolcejr]

First of all, when you start around the second arrow, you never move right! Your ball was burning up, but you never made the one move that you should have made; move left and ball up, not down. You don't have enough revs to move much to the left and still get your ball back, but by ball up when you move left, you let the ball make the move for you.

How do you recognize that it's burning up? I guess that's my main problem-I'm failing to see it as it happens. I've always been used to making a move when my ball starts coming up high.

I'm already using my strongest heavy oil ball. Typically when I move left with it (around 3rd arrow) I have the same problem, and sometimes it's worse as I leave washouts. Maybe because I'm moving into where others have been playing and the head oil is gone. I can't move much more left than that without the ball failing to come back. If I ball down from there and stay where I was, the ball fails to hit as well and it is a weaker ball with a shiny coverstock. Maybe I'm using too much surface on the heavy oil ball and it's just dying out. Odd to me that it starts happening in the end of the first into the second game. That seems pretty early to me for burn up, but I guess that's impossible to tell not knowing what pattern/volume is out there.

Last night of the season is this Wednesday. It's a no tap "just for fun" night so I'm going to try things I normally wouldn't during a typical league night (I tend to play it safe so that I give the team a chance to win). I'll try moving in deeper with the heavy oil ball to see if I can get it to turn the corner. I'll also try a strong pearl and stay around the 2nd or 3rd arrow to see if that retain enough energy to turn the corner and drive the pocket consistently. I may just need to stay and practice after league one night to mess around with anything and everything to try to find some combo that works.

[RobLV1]

It's a crap shoot, the ball may go high, or it may start to go light or fail to carry (weak tens). The biggest thing is that with modern lane conditions, you NEVER move right, and you had better pay attention to bowlers to the left of you. Two and one moves don't usually work on modern house shots unless nobody is just to the left of you... otherwise move an arrow rather than two boards. Also, in terms of a stronger ball, if you are using a ball that has more than a hundred games on it, it is no longer a strong ball.

[Aslan]

Telling you what I'm seeing and what I'd do...risks making Rob eat his appendages...but I'm going to take a stab at it. And I welcome ANY and ALL criticism of my take because I'm learning just like the young lad here. I'm certainly not saying I'm right here.

Now, IF I WERE the coach here...I'd ask you a question after each shot that is crucially important. "Did you hit your target?" You can't offer advice on what to change on missed shots.

But, lets assume you hit your target each time in Games 2-3 and were hitting weak each time. You actually hit weak even when you struck about half of those strikes.

"How can I tell?" (you asked)

The easiest way to tell a ball is "burning up" or "burning out" or a "line is burned up/out" is by what you LEAVE AFTER YOU MAKE A MOVE LEFT.

So, let's say you've been hitting your target and striking flush...ball directly out the back of the pin deck between the 8 and 9 pin. Thats a perfect strike. Now, next ball you throw leaves a 4-pin or a 4-9 split (depending on how lucky you are).

Thats an easy adjust meant; 1:1 left..automatic. So, let's say you make that move left and throw your next ball and it leaves any of the following:

- 2-pin, 2-5, 5-pin, or anything with a 2 or a 5.
- Flat 10-pin.
- 8-10 nor 8-pin.
- Strikes, but exits the headpin to the right of center.

That means your line has "burnt up" and (IF YOU PLAN TO STAY THERE), you need to ball down.

Some, will suggest you ball UP and move further inside. Some will even suggest you ball down and move right. Others will suggest you do things other than change balls...such as changing speeds, loft, etc... BUT...IF you plan to stay in that spot and keep you approach, speed, loft, release, etc... the same...then you MUST ball down. It is physically impossible to carry if you don't. Well, not "impossible"...but the odds are stacked against you.

[Aslan]

And, know you're not alone.

I'd approximate about 87% of bowlers...even those that have been bowling for longer than you or I have been alive...have no idea what to do in Game 3 when they start losing carry. They usually just change balls willy nilly and complain about the house and how the house or the oil machine or something.

My problem, is a bit more severe because...for the first time...I have an arsenal where I can't seem to establish a line. Every ball I have hits weak In Game 1. I have no shot inside 8...and everything is burning up outside 9. That leaves straight shots. Not the best strategy. Usually if I can make it to Game 3... I do quite well.

Summer averages (4-Game League)
Game 1: 183
Game 2: 183
Game 3: 190
Game 4: 204

[SRB57]

It's a crap shoot, the ball may go high, or it may start to go light or fail to carry (weak tens). The biggest thing is that with modern lane conditions, you NEVER move right, and you had better pay attention to bowlers to the left of you. Two and one moves don't usually work on modern house shots unless nobody is just to the left of you... otherwise move an arrow rather than two boards. Also, in terms of a stronger ball, if you are using a ball that has more than a hundred games on it, it is no longer a strong ball.

That's exactly how I see it now with the house shots. Most of the time you need to move zones instead of small moves. Watching how the ball goes though the pins is my key indicator if I am in the right spot with the right ball. Depending who you are bowling with determines how fast they change and they can change quick. Steve

[boatman37]

A year ago I had no idea where my ball exited the deck and even when I tried to notice it I had trouble. Now I watch it every shot. I guess I trained my eyes and brain to focus on it. If I hit my mark and feel me release was consistent and I start deflecting towards the 8 pin (lefty here) I know I need to change something. Still working on figuring out what to change but usually I either move in a little more or I ball down. But I have definitely gotten better at identifying it. And yes, I have moved in and balled up if that is what works

[Cdolcejr]

Thanks all for the suggestions. Moving zones instead of smaller moves is an eye opener and can be potentially why I'm struggling. I only move a couple boards, never one to make too big of a move. To be honest, I never really moved much deeper than the 3rd arrow this whole season, or switched to a ball that goes longer. That may have been exactly what I needed to do. I'll give it a shot on Weds as it's a meaningless night in terms of league play- I'll go deeper on the lane and move an arrow instead of a couple of boards and then I'll switch to a longer ball all providing that the lanes that evening allow me to do so.

Aslan- to answer your question, I do feel like I've been pretty consistent for the most part. I didn't bowl at all during the Covid break and just started back up in May (14 month layoff in between after bowling for 10 straight years). I spent all the time in between working at home on my approach and timing and it's better than it's ever been. Before that, I couldn't even stay balanced at the line. The ironic thing is that I fixed the timing and balance issues and now the results are worse than before. I attribute it all to my inability to make the correct adjustments in a given set or just plain being stubborn.

[boomer]

It's a good practice drill to use - forces you out of your comfort zone to discover what you need to do: Strike from each arrow - roll a strike from the first arrow (meaning really ROLL the ball), then when you have done that, move to second which is probably where you're comfortable with, then from third (probably somewhat comfortable - it's typically a similar line, not the same but close) and then from fourth (slow down, be precise)

For me this pushes me to be comfortable with the gutter right there (HATE rolling outside 5) and then swinging it. I'm getting better and it's helping me be flexible and learn those "zones" . . .

[Benji88]

It's a crap shoot, the ball may go high, or it may start to go light or fail to carry (weak tens). The biggest thing is that with modern lane conditions, you NEVER move right, and you had better pay attention to bowlers to the left of you. Two and one moves don't usually work on modern house shots unless nobody is just to the left of you... otherwise move an arrow rather than two boards. Also, in terms of a stronger ball, if you are using a ball that has more than a hundred games on it, it is no longer a strong ball.

Rob - I always respect & am interested in your thoughts, and evolving thoughts, after the old BTM articles & Bowling Intel days. Could you expand on the “more than a hundred games” comment? Thanks

[bubba809]

Rob - I always respect & am interested in your thoughts, and evolving thoughts, after the old BTM articles & Bowling Intel days. Could you expand on the “more than a hundred games” comment? Thanks

Yes, I'd like to hear more about this as well. Since most standard Fall leagues are around 90-110 games, this would mean your ball will no longer contain the same strong reaction after just one season? I feel proper maintenance on a ball will keep it going for a lot longer than that.

[RobLV1]

One of the primary factors that make modern reactive resin balls hook is the cover materials ability to soak up oil. As the ball is going down the lane, the oil is absorbed into the ball which results in more friction, faster. Unfortunately, like a sponge, a ball reaches a point where it can no longer absorb more oil. At this point, many bowlers have the ball put into an oven to get some of the absorbency back. From everything that I've seen, this helps once, or maybe twice. Once you reach that point, a new ball is really the only alternative, if total hook is important to you. If you can become a more effective and divergent bowler, one who accepts that energy knocks down pins, not total hook, then you can get off the more hook train and save a whole bunch of money. Does that make sense to you?

[Cdolcejr]

One of the primary factors that make modern reactive resin balls hook is the cover materials ability to soak up oil. As the ball is going down the lane, the oil is absorbed into the ball which results in more friction, faster. Unfortunately, like a sponge, a ball reaches a point where it can no longer absorb more oil. At this point, many bowlers have the ball put into an oven to get some of the absorbency back. From everything that I've seen, this helps once, or maybe twice. Once you reach that point, a new ball is really the only alternative, if total hook is important to you. If you can become a more effective and divergent bowler, one who accepts that energy knocks down pins, not total hook, then you can get off the more hook train and save a whole bunch of money. Does that make sense to you?

I think that would explain why you see guys go out and buy a new ball every month. There are several people in my league that have amassed 30 to 40 bowling balls but have not been bowling as long as I have. Instead of learning how to adjust to the lanes, it seems that the blame is put on everything but themselves (i.e. the ball, the lane conditions etc). I am guilty of this also, however my first reaction is not to buy a new ball, but to try and figure out what I'm doing (or not doing) to effectively play the lanes. I've been using the same 3-4 ball arsenal for a few seasons now and yes they don't hook like they did out of the box, but with proper maintenance (ball oven/coverstock management), they hook more than enough to get me to the pocket and hit hard. It's just up to me to adjust to the lanes when the ball isn't hitting correctly anymore and that's the part I struggle with the most at the moment. Otherwise, you're in that endless cycle of buying a new ball, using it until it stops hitting and then buying a new ball- rinse and repeat. It gets expensive quickly and I'd rather spend that money on practicing.

[Aslan]

For the sake of having a conversation...while also risking poking the bear...I will play devil's advocate and point out one major flaw in Rob's theory in that there are also quite a few bowlers that have amassed a large number of honor scores...mostly 300-games, 10/11 in a rows, 700+ games...who simply throw up 2nd arrow and use bowling balls that are 2-10 years old. These guys don't know anything about 'modern bowling techniques', they don't care about 'specs', and even if they have a bad night and beg for advice...they would never take any advice you gave them.

So, if throwing up 2nd arrow on a THS is soooooo wrong. If a ball burns up after 2 weeks of ownership and you need to develop some new-fangled strategy of adjusting 6:9 left while lowering your speed to 7mph...but only on Wednesdays through Mondays if the humidity is between 31% and 71% and you have less than a 0.05% topographical shift to the left or right. On Tuesdays it's a a 4:7 with an increased hand rotation, in < 31% humidity you adjust everything by a factor of 10% and ball down one ball, and if there is more than a 0.05% topographical shift...you have to completely change everything; back to the drawing board....etc...

...then why is the guy with 19 300-games still getting 3 300-games every year doing what he's always done? The only "new-age" bowlers that are surging ahead of the pack...are doing so because they're bowling 2-handed and creating so much entry angle and power that a one-handed bowler would have to bowl perfectly to even compete. They aren't using some magical new chaos theory or system which allows their balls to move left and stay out of the burn, etc... They are throwing 21mph with 450rpms. If you can do that...you can beat topography, humidity, anything!

But on a THS? Which is what 98% of us bowl on...

(No CDolceJr...you aren't bowling on a reverse block)

...if bowling up 2nd arrow is bad...why are so many bowlers who know less about bowling balls and moden bowling concepts than me (and I know relatively little) able to continue to accrue honor score after honor score after honor score to the point that they can't even remember how many they have?

[Phonetek]

I think that would explain why you see guys go out and buy a new ball every month. There are several people in my league that have amassed 30 to 40 bowling balls but have not been bowling as long as I have. Instead of learning how to adjust to the lanes, it seems that the blame is put on everything but themselves (i.e. the ball, the lane conditions etc). I am guilty of this also, however my first reaction is not to buy a new ball, but to try and figure out what I'm doing (or not doing) to effectively play the lanes. I've been using the same 3-4 ball arsenal for a few seasons now and yes they don't hook like they did out of the box, but with proper maintenance (ball oven/coverstock management), they hook more than enough to get me to the pocket and hit hard. It's just up to me to adjust to the lanes when the ball isn't hitting correctly anymore and that's the part I struggle with the most at the moment. Otherwise, you're in that endless cycle of buying a new ball, using it until it stops hitting and then buying a new ball- rinse and repeat. It gets expensive quickly and I'd rather spend that money on practicing.

My PSO had a very good suggestion to my son regarding ball replacement. His favorite ball is his Venom shock. He bowls 60+ games every week practicing. (Ah to be young) That ball IS a sponge too. Well obviously the common complaint is that it's not hooking like it did. At his pace I've had to bake it several times but it only does so much.

Each time I bake it the oil just pours out of it. Once it cools I got it with some sanding pads. It come back and lasts for a while. Even when the ball needs to be baked, it still hooks a ton but just not as much. With his revs and axis tilt it still hit plenty hard. He gets all kinds of ridiculous carry and throws really big games. I'm certain it has 1k+ games on it by now and it's still just fine. He can use it until it cracks.

My PSO suggested getting him a second one that he ONLY uses for official play which I did. It's drilled identically to the first one. This way when he wants to go to his Venom Shock he has a fresh one for the important stuff. My son doesn't know it but I also got him a third one already drilled up and ready to go so in the box just in case.

So, he has thrown the new one a couple of times to compare to the old and and new and honestly the difference is not dramatic. Pretty minor really. A couple boards different and it drives a teensy bit harder through the pins. It could be the way he throws it or that I'm diligent about the surface? Or it could be that the balls really don't die to the point of being useless like people think, they just like having that scapegoat. I don't know really. Either way, they'll still knock down pins.

Like anything else, everything works it's best when it's brand new. The better you maintain it, the longer it will be useful. The same holds true to our own bodies. Well... except they start out useless. Once they aren't, keeping up with them is obviously important. Since our bowling balls are merely an extension of our bodies logic dictates to take care of them.

[Ryster]

I don't think bowling balls absorb all that much oil. If a ball absorbed oil to the point of saturation, one would think it would get noticeably heavier after having all of that oil soaked in to it. Like a wet sponge saturated with water. I believe the oil might go slightly below the surface, but not deep down.

As others have said, ball maintenance is key. I clean my stuff immediately after bowling before putting it back in my bag. My bowling balls never sweat on a hot day after sitting in the car for hours. However others I bowl with will pull their bowling balls out of their bags and they will be sweating. They wipe it off and it doesn't come back even though the ball is still warm.

There have also been reports of people heating up brand new balls and having them get a sheen on the surface. This has lead some to believe it isn't lane oil coming out, but actually plasticizers and resin coming out of the cover...which isn't good.

[RobLV1]

'I don't think bowling balls absorb all that much oil.'

I don't think the sun will rise tomorrow morning, but I think that planning my life around that belief is a really bad idea!

[boatman37]

'I don't think bowling balls absorb all that much oil.'

I don't think the sun will rise tomorrow morning, but I think that planning my life around that belief is a really bad idea!

lol

I clean mine after every use before leaving the center. And I can't confirm this but have read somewhere where someone put a brand new ball in a ball oven and it came out dry. I baked mine a few times after several uses and they were soaked. In fact I ran them through 3 or 4 times in about 15 minute cylcles with cool down in between and every time came out soaked. Not saying I'm an expert on ball maintenance but sharing my experience

[Cdolcejr]

lol

I clean mine after every use before leaving the center. And I can't confirm this but have read somewhere where someone put a brand new ball in a ball oven and it came out dry. I baked mine a few times after several uses and they were soaked. In fact I ran them through 3 or 4 times in about 15 minute cylcles with cool down in between and every time came out soaked. Not saying I'm an expert on ball maintenance but sharing my experience

I have the opposite happen. The ball I've been using all summer used to absorb and sweat a ton of oil, but I've tried the ball oven a couple times recently with this ball and not a drop came out. And I don't clean my equipment before leaving the center. I guess I'm playing in the dry too much!

[boomer]

One thing to think about is that when bake your balls (LOL) other things happen. Even at low temperatures, we can affect the plasticizers in the resin that the balls are made of - this can affect the hardness and the porosity of the balls. This would explain why baking a ball brings it back to a certain extent, but not all the way, and it has a diminishing return. . .

[Phonetek]

One thing to think about is that when bake your balls (LOL) other things happen. Even at low temperatures, we can affect the plasticizers in the resin that the balls are made of - this can affect the hardness and the porosity of the balls. This would explain why baking a ball brings it back to a certain extent, but not all the way, and it has a diminishing return. . .

I'm by no means a chemist but I would think that the lane oil effects the plasticizer in the ball just as much if not more. Reactive resin is a derivative of urethane which is a petroleum product and obviously lane oil is a petroleum product. One is more refined than the other. One would think that mixing the two would cause more of a breakdown than mild heat to extract it. Technically, bowling with it may be what causes the breakdown of the cover stock more than actually trying to maintain it.

Again, I'm no chemist but I've seen what oil does to a plastic cup if it sets in there for any length of time. Think about what is doing to a bowling ball? Given that the modern bowling ball is plastic mixed with petroleum could be another reason why these things crack new in the box? They themselves are breaking down because of their chemical makeup even with no help from lane oil, along with the gravity theory. Just a hypothesis because I doubt any scientists have sat in a lab testing this theory vs a low evenly heated bowling ball.

I could be completely wrong, it's just a theory. Any scientists on the board that can say "Yay" or "Nay"?

[Cdolcejr]

I'm by no means a chemist but I would think that the lane oil effects the plasticizer in the ball just as much if not more. Reactive resin is a derivative of urethane which is a petroleum product and obviously lane oil is a petroleum product. One is more refined than the other. One would think that mixing the two would cause more of a breakdown than mild heat to extract it. Technically, bowling with it may be what causes the breakdown of the cover stock more than actually trying to maintain it.

Again, I'm no chemist but I've seen what oil does to a plastic cup if it sets in there for any length of time. Think about what is doing to a bowling ball? Given that the modern bowling ball is plastic mixed with petroleum could be another reason why these things crack new in the box? They themselves are breaking down because of their chemical makeup even with no help from lane oil, along with the gravity theory. Just a hypothesis because I doubt any scientists have sat in a lab testing this theory vs a low evenly heated bowling ball.

I could be completely wrong, it's just a theory. Any scientists on the board that can say "Yay" or "Nay"?

I'm definitely not a scientist, but I have also heard that balls can crack because they are cooled down too quickly by the manufacturer. For the record, I throw Pyramid equipment since 2015 or so and never had a ball crack. On the other hand, I've had 4 roto grip (3 of which cracked) and a Columbia 300 that has cracked.

As for ball maintenance, I regularly use a ball revivor and resurface/refresh. One of the balls I've been using consistently for the last 4-5 seasons still packs a lot of punch even though I'm pretty sure it has 500-1000+ games on it.

[Phonetek]

Cooling too fast is as good as reason as any. I would hope the factory has proper cooling racks or procedures in place. The same would hold true to the ball ovens. Take it out and plop it in a bucket of ice water, it would surely crack. All you can do is take the best precautions you can and hope for the best.

[Phonetek]

I'm definitely not a scientist, but I have also heard that balls can crack because they are cooled down too quickly by the manufacturer. For the record, I throw Pyramid equipment since 2015 or so and never had a ball crack. On the other hand, I've had 4 roto grip (3 of which cracked) and a Columbia 300 that has cracked.

As for ball maintenance, I regularly use a ball revivor and resurface/refresh. One of the balls I've been using consistently for the last 4-5 seasons still packs a lot of punch even though I'm pretty sure it has 500-1000+ games on it.

Sorry can't edit from mobile, had to do second post. What I forgot to say is that it does seem that some brands crack more than others. It's been discussed on here a ton. From my experience which doesn't count for much, I've had and seen more Storm and Rotos crack than others. I'm just one guy though so that's no official benchmark by any means. So far with Motiv I've been good.

[Aslan]

Balls I've had that have cracked (since 2014):

Brunswick Slingshot

Storm Frantic

900 Global "The Nuts" (undrilled, in the box)

Track 706A (undrilled, in the box)

DV8 Thug Life (undrilled, in the box)

Radical Reaxx Pearl

Hammer Scandal Pearl

Ebonite Innovate

All balls crack if they sit around long enough...EXCEPT...my old, urethane Columbia 300 Blue Knight from the 1980s. For some reason, that ball has never cracked. But, reactive resin...it's just a matter of time. They don't even need to be drilled.

To keep them from cracking??

- USE THEM
- Wipe them with some mild cleaner (alcohol/soap/ball cleaner) after each use).
- Don't leave them in your car/truck in the hot or cold weather.
- Don't do stupid things like put them in ovens or abuse them.

[boomer]

I'm by no means a chemist but I would think that the lane oil effects the plasticizer in the ball just as much if not more. Reactive resin is a derivative of urethane which is a petroleum product and obviously lane oil is a petroleum product. One is more refined than the other. One would think that mixing the two would cause more of a breakdown than mild heat to extract it. Technically, bowling with it may be what causes the breakdown of the cover stock more than actually trying to maintain it.

Again, I'm no chemist but I've seen what oil does to a plastic cup if it sets in there for any length of time. Think about what is doing to a bowling ball? Given that the modern bowling ball is plastic mixed with petroleum could be another reason why these things crack new in the box? They themselves are breaking down because of their chemical makeup even with no help from lane oil, along with the gravity theory. Just a hypothesis because I doubt any scientists have sat in a lab testing this theory vs a low evenly heated bowling ball.

I could be completely wrong, it's just a theory. Any scientists on the board that can say "Yay" or "Nay"?

I, too, am not a chemist. I'm an "applied technologist" which is a strange thing but that's what it says on the piece of paper! LOL

so there are oils and oils. not all oils do the same thing - it's amazing what comes out of the column when they refine oil or make it synthetically.

A plasticizer keeps a plastic (again, a VERY broad category including resins) . . . plastic. They keep it within a certain shore value range, shore being a measure of hardness. I used to deal with VERY soft foam plastics with extremely tight shore ranges - we used a meter with a very specific flat tip. Our balls use a pointed tip but same principle.

So the plasticizer in the ball is there to keep the ball in a consistent fashion. Stumbling for non-technical words, but that's really what it is - the plasticizer keeps the ball "soft" (which is funny since they're hard) - they don't degrade the ball.

Take the plasticizers out - you get a brittle ball. A hard ball.


not saying that's the only thing going on - just that it's **A** thing. :)

[Phonetek]

I, too, am not a chemist. I'm an "applied technologist" which is a strange thing but that's what it says on the piece of paper! LOL

so there are oils and oils. not all oils do the same thing - it's amazing what comes out of the column when they refine oil or make it synthetically.

A plasticizer keeps a plastic (again, a VERY broad category including resins) . . . plastic. They keep it within a certain shore value range, shore being a measure of hardness. I used to deal with VERY soft foam plastics with extremely tight shore ranges - we used a meter with a very specific flat tip. Our balls use a pointed tip but same principle.

So the plasticizer in the ball is there to keep the ball in a consistent fashion. Stumbling for non-technical words, but that's really what it is - the plasticizer keeps the ball "soft" (which is funny since they're hard) - they don't degrade the ball.

Take the plasticizers out - you get a brittle ball. A hard ball.


not saying that's the only thing going on - just that it's **A** thing. :)

Very interesting Boomer, see you never know when or where knowledge of unrelated things can prove useful. So the question I have is...

When you bake it, a miniscule amount of the plasticizer is extracted. Is that really enough to make it brittle? Or again after we still talking a drop eye dropper of water in a bathtub?

[Ryster]

'I don't think bowling balls absorb all that much oil.'

I don't think the sun will rise tomorrow morning, but I think that planning my life around that belief is a really bad idea!

Whatever.

[Cdolcejr]

Found a couple of really good videos that do a good job explaining lane transition, why it happens and what to do when it happens:

Following Lane Transition (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD4EY4hJFM8&t=5s)

Understanding Lane Oil Changes When Bowling (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwdIPg11F74)

[RobLV1]

Found a couple of really good videos that do a good job explaining lane transition, why it happens and what to do when it happens:

Following Lane Transition (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD4EY4hJFM8&t=5s)

Understanding Lane Oil Changes When Bowling (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwdIPg11F74)

Any explanation of transition that doesn't take into account a change in topography as the oil goes away is doing bowlers a huge disservice. As the oil dries up, friction increases. As friction increases, the effect of gravity increases. Topography that is exposed as the lanes dry up can, and does have a huge effect. Have you ever seen a pair of lanes where one starts to hook more, and the other gets tighter? It happens all the time because of the newly exposed topography. If you think that oil is the only consideration, you are flirting with danger!

[boomer]

Very interesting Boomer, see you never know when or where knowledge of unrelated things can prove useful. So the question I have is...

When you bake it, a miniscule amount of the plasticizer is extracted. Is that really enough to make it brittle? Or again after we still talking a drop eye dropper of water in a bathtub?

Probably not - but repeated bakings? May not make it overly brittle, but might be enough to affect some change in the ball and its surface and, thus, its reaction.

[Cdolcejr]

Any explanation of transition that doesn't take into account a change in topography as the oil goes away is doing bowlers a huge disservice. As the oil dries up, friction increases. As friction increases, the effect of gravity increases. Topography that is exposed as the lanes dry up can, and does have a huge effect. Have you ever seen a pair of lanes where one starts to hook more, and the other gets tighter? It happens all the time because of the newly exposed topography. If you think that oil is the only consideration, you are flirting with danger!

I guess that explains why the lanes seem to change drastically from warm ups to game 1. Often, I'll be locked in during warmups but by leave a big split by frame 2 or 3 of game 1 on a shot that I deemed good.

Would it be a good idea to keep a log of the lane characteristics on each pair and what the weather was like that day? I recall reading that Walter Ray keeps a notebook for each pair in the house he bowls in.

Or is that pointless considering the one takeaway here is not to have any preconceived notions, and to just to show up and play the lanes the way they need to be played on that given night?

[RobLV1]

"Or is that pointless considering the one takeaway here is not to have any preconceived notions, and to just to show up and play the lanes the way they need to be played on that given night?"

It's not pointless, as long as you use it as a guide, not a bible. Some lane characteristics hold long-term, others don"t. After a while you will discover which lane characteristics are long-lasting, and which are temporary; affected by temperature, humidity, etc.

[Phonetek]

Probably not - but repeated bakings? May not make it overly brittle, but might be enough to affect some change in the ball and its surface and, thus, its reaction.

I can buy that. Like anything else, if done with moderation problems will be minimized.

[Cdolcejr]

Winter League started back up. Lanes are completely different than over the summer. No idea if it was who I was bowling with, different lane pattern, weather, topography etc.

Anyways, has anyone here ever struck on every shot on one lane for the entire night? I did this last night...didn't realize it happened until I edited my video but I don't think I've ever done that before. 17 for 17 on the right lane even w/ a ball change tossed in there. Left lane was a lot tighter and was giving me problems all night.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTQbrVKohHk&t=330s

Speaking of videos, does anyone know if me recording myself during league is legal? I can't find anything in the USBC rules prohibiting it.

[RobLV1]

Nice bowling on the right lane! Often, really tough lanes result from a very similar shot where the miss room differs. Notice where you can miss on one lane and not the other. Often you'll find that you have miss room to the right on one lane, and tug room on the other.

[boatman37]

The other night we had a few guys playing 2 different lines on each lane. Left lane played completely different than the right

[Cdolcejr]

Nice bowling on the right lane! Often, really tough lanes result from a very similar shot where the miss room differs. Notice where you can miss on one lane and not the other. Often you'll find that you have miss room to the right on one lane, and tug room on the other.

Thanks! Yeah that's exactly what happened. I think if I squared up a little bit on the left lane, I would have been able to get to the pocket better. Instead I was missing a little right and then the ball was fighting to get back to the pocket.

[Cdolcejr]

The other night we had a few guys playing 2 different lines on each lane. Left lane played completely different than the right

I think that just happens once in a while. In my center the pairs are usually a little closer than that- maybe a 3 board difference between the lanes on average, but one end of the house hooks much more than the other end.