A few basic bowling questions...

[Hammerguy529]

Ok, rather than starting a few threads I figured I would bunch them into one thread for ease of answering and also less forum clutter. :cool: OK, I am curious is heat a bad idea for bowling balls? I mean heat as in the bowling balls are in my truck in their 3 ball roller? Reason I ask is I have limited space and have kept them in the back seat of my truck for about 4 days now and have been curious.

second. I just bought a 15 lb dumbell to exercise my wrist and get up a little more forearm strength to make it a bit less stressful on my arm and wrist and I am curious are their any specific exercises I can do to help strengthen those areas? Wrist especially is my main concern. I do not wish to have to drop a pound on all my gear if i can tone up and help make it less strenuous on the limbs.

third. Where would I be able to find a good understanding of all the points on the bowling lane? which arrow is the third?(third from left or third from right) which board is which and what number is which? I am new to the sport still and well dont have a whole lot of time to set aside so this forum is my go to bible when I can't be at the lanes.

fourthly....I went bowling sunday morning and my hammer hotsauce has about 60 games on it and I struck maybe 3 times out of 3 games. (Horrible I know and much worse than my usual) but what was strange was I was leaving more single pins than anything else. How would you rectify such a situation? Which direction and board would you switch to? Why? My hand sometimes goes limp mid release right as I come back to release and I feel it hinders my shot and Im hoping that strength training may assist me or do you guys feel I should look elsewhere? Regardless I want to try and tone up anyway.

Are all these questions able to be answered.....or do I need some higher guidance? Im frustrated and being ignorant is doing nothing but frustrate me further.

Guys and Gals I do apologize for this semi long read and also if it seems a bit unorganized. I've had a long day and well Im tired:confused: Thank you again!

[JaxBowlingGuy]

1) Heat is horrible for bowling balls. And more so for todays equipment. The material of the weight blocks and ball material expands and contracts.. If it expands too much it will crack... 99.9% of the time the bowling company will not replace it either.

2) curls will help with strengthing your bowling arm...

3) If you are right handed the arrows and boards start from the right counting to the left and if you are left handed its the other way... Each lane has 39-40 boards depending on the lanes and each board is 1 inch wide if i remember correctly.. The 3rd arrow as you mentioned would be the 15th board from the right (im right handed).... There is an arrow every 5 boards

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-grcU9xcyE

4) single pins are just apart of the game... Generally if you are right handed and you are leaving 10 pins move back a 1/2 to 1 inch on the approach... 7 pins move up the same...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_Bbt6_Flkw


Hope this helps

[bowl1820]

third. Where would I be able to find a good understanding of all the points on the bowling lane? which arrow is the third?(third from left or third from right) which board is which and what number is which? I am new to the sport still and well dont have a whole lot of time to set aside so this forum is my go to bible when I can't be at the lanes.

How you count the boards and arrows is based on if your right handed or left handed.

If your righthanded first arrow is the first arrow on the right side of the lane and so on.The same applies for the boards, ex. the 7 board is the 7th board counted from the righthand side toward the middle.

If your lefthanded first arrow is the first arrow on the left side of the lane and so on.The same applies for the boards, ex. the 7 board is the 7th board counted from the lefthand side toward the middle.

[Hammerguy529]

ok, and would the curls help target the wrist area? Mainly I feel that is my weak link and it bothers me so much. Id like to be able to loft the ball further if need be, get it higher if need be, and I utterly feel like my wrist is causing me to fail in all of the aformentioned areas.

Thanks for the tip with the heat as well as the lanes, Now I can sort of keep up with you guys on the arrow jargon :)

as far as single pins, it was weird. Most were 10 and 9 pins....and a few 5's...I don't know what was wrong besides user error. But I dont like not being able to strike when I know I can. On the plus side though my spare game has improved especially on the 10's. I changed up and went to a stroke release and it helped tremendously. So Im back to the drawing board on striking I suppose :(

[bowl1820]

Here are the original instructions for the "Rangefinder" (that's what the dots and arrows are called. It doesn't have the breakpoint markers. Those are a modern addition to the lanes.)


Rangefinder ® system by Brunswick

It was invented by Lowell Jackson back in the 1930's

"Jackson's poor eyesight was responsible for his most lasting legacy.
Because he could not see the pins well, he would often put a pencil dot
on the approach to help line up. Eventually, a nitpicking official at a
tournament cited the ABC rulebook and made him erase his mark.

That got Jackson to thinking. Out on the lanes, bowlers had long used
darker boards to help them aim their deliveries. Why not have a series
of markers permanently inlaid on the approaches and lanes? Jackson took
his idea to his bosses at Brunswick. The result was the now familiar
rangefinder system, which the ABC approved in 1939, and which is still
in use today. "
Click
for more info on Jackson (http://bowlersjournal.com/currentissue/archive/drjake-may.htm)


The bowling lane and approach contain DOTS (dowels) and ARROWS which are
visual aids to proper alignment for strikes and spares. These aids are
positioned on numbered boards.

ON THE APPROACH
There are three sets of seven dots on the approach. The first set
located approximately 15 feet from the foul line; the second set is 12
feet away; and the third set is approximately 3 inches away. In some
centers, the outermost dots are missing at the 12- and 15-foot levels.
The center dot in each set is larger than the rest. You use the first
two sets to help you choose where to stand on the approach for strikes
and spares -- your SETUP LOCATION. The third set will help you or an
observer determine exactly where your ball touches down on the lane --
the TOUCHDOWN POINT.

. In order for all bowlers to communicate correctly, right-handed
bowlers need to count from right to left, while left-handed bowlers need
to count from left to right. For purposes of explaining strike targeting
below, we will limit the number of playable boards at 20. Therefore, the
sequence is 5, 10, 15, 20, 15, 10, and 5. We will change our
illustration when we talk about spare shooting.


How to use the RANGEFINDER ® targeting system
ON THE LANE
There is a set of SEVEN ARROWS located approximately 15 feet from the
foul line and a set of TEN DOTS located approximately six feet from the
foul line. These are parts of the RANGEFINDER ® targeting system
innovated by Brunswick during the second world war. Note that the
approach dots and the lane arrows are in line with the pins, while the
lane dots are not.

Note-
The statement about the " arrows are in line with the pins" is incorrect.
As are a lot of the diagrams in the books of the lanes and pins.

While the 4th arrow lines up with the center of the headpin. As you move left or right from the center arrow, the arrows move off the pin centers and don't line directly up with them.

Here's a diagram showing how they really lineup.
Click here for Diagram (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w89/aloarjr810/bowlingxtras/pinsarrows.jpg)
The black arrows are the lane arrows and the red arrows show where the dots lineup with the pins.

HOW TO TARGET FOR A STRIKE WHILE IN YOUR SETUP
You may use either the arrows or the dots as your VISUAL TARGET -- the
point where you fix your gaze. The following method uses BOTH -- the way
the Rangefinder ® system was originally intended to be used.

1. First, choose your intended target line starting from the
approach dots at the foul line and ending with the arrows at 15 feet;
your target line is approximately 15 feet long. Let's pick a 12-to-8
target line; your ball touches down on board 12 and crosses board 8 at
the arrows. walk toward your target.

2. Next, extend this path in your mind's eye all the way back to
your setup position on the approach. It crosses board 16 at the level of
your setup. walk toward your target.

3. Position your bowling shoulder and your ball directly over this
extended target line. in this case, both would be over board 16, with
your forearm in line with your target. walk toward your target.

4. Square your shoulders so that they are 90 degrees to your
forearm. walk toward your target.

5. Square your feet perpendicular to your shoulders and parallel
with your target line to ensure that you will walk parallel with your
swing. walk toward your target.

6. Since the lane dots at six feet are closer and easier to see,
drop your gaze back to these and use them as your visual target during
your delivery. Since these dots are closer to each other, you can more
effectively "fine tune" where you place your ball along your target
line. walk toward your target.

7. When you start to move, make sure to push your ball toward your
target and walk toward your target.

[ebowler]

I can only tell you what worked for me, find an instructor, follow their instructions, and practice what they teach you.

I taught myself many years ago, and one of the first things you will need to do is forget everything you taught your self, and or what other bowlers at the center told you. It will be the best thing you can do in order to start from scratch and learn the basics first.

I hit an average of the mid 180's, but my consistency just wasn't there. Sure, I would hit low 200's even 256 but I would also hit the 130's. My coach took videos of my approach, pointed out my poor timing, and we started from there. My average dropped 40 pins as I was working on the approach.

I have spent 6 1/2 hours with my coach, and have been practicing my new approach for about 3 weeks now, and i just about have it down to muscle memory. Once I do, we will move to the next step.

I rolled 6 games Sunday, 237, 171,(changed balls) 255, 248, (lost my line)146, and 200. I still have a little trouble choosing between the two strike balls, and making adjustment as the lane changes.

It is very hard to do, but you really have to start from the beginning, and DO NOT pay attention too the score. My center lets me shadow bowl (no pins) which really helps me focus on what I'm doing, not a score. If you cannot bowl with out pins, ask them to turn off the monitor.

Well, thats my two cents on what's working for me, as I strive to improve my game.

[mrbill]

Ok, rather than starting a few threads I figured I would bunch them into one thread for ease of answering and also less forum clutter. :cool: OK, I am curious is heat a bad idea for bowling balls? I mean heat as in the bowling balls are in my truck in their 3 ball roller? Reason I ask is I have limited space and have kept them in the back seat of my truck for about 4 days now and have been curious.

second. I just bought a 15 lb dumbell to exercise my wrist and get up a little more forearm strength to make it a bit less stressful on my arm and wrist and I am curious are their any specific exercises I can do to help strengthen those areas? Wrist especially is my main concern. I do not wish to have to drop a pound on all my gear if i can tone up and help make it less strenuous on the limbs.

third. Where would I be able to find a good understanding of all the points on the bowling lane? which arrow is the third?(third from left or third from right) which board is which and what number is which? I am new to the sport still and well dont have a whole lot of time to set aside so this forum is my go to bible when I can't be at the lanes.

fourthly....I went bowling sunday morning and my hammer hotsauce has about 60 games on it and I struck maybe 3 times out of 3 games. (Horrible I know and much worse than my usual) but what was strange was I was leaving more single pins than anything else. How would you rectify such a situation? Which direction and board would you switch to? Why? My hand sometimes goes limp mid release right as I come back to release and I feel it hinders my shot and Im hoping that strength training may assist me or do you guys feel I should look elsewhere? Regardless I want to try and tone up anyway.

Are all these questions able to be answered.....or do I need some higher guidance? Im frustrated and being ignorant is doing nothing but frustrate me further.

Guys and Gals I do apologize for this semi long read and also if it seems a bit unorganized. I've had a long day and well Im tired:confused: Thank you again!

1) I keep leaving my balling balls in my truck, but I try like crazy to get them in the house in a corner
2) I just started back some months ago and I've been bowling almost every day since. At first I had trouble With my slide foot, so I did lunges and side squats"fixed"
Then I had problems with my back swing timing and release, Practice Practice Practice "fixed
My Avg was going up up up all the while from 152 to now 180 and riseing.
I like you refuse to drop from my 16lbs ball.
Then My wrist and forearm started killing me like some kind of pulling strain, I was like "If its not one thing it's another"
So I got a wrist strap/support and got myself a BodyFit Resistance Tube and use it to do finger wrist and forearm exersizes "fixed" and I get more revs now with no pain and my ball feels lighter
3)
Robert knows......
4) Somtimes when I leave 10 pins alot it's because I'm hitting the pocket at a high angle or just comming to straight to the pocket, So I will move left 1 board and somtimes throw a little slower.
But I like what Robert said and I'm gonna try that too

Now My Right Push off knee is giving out on me and I'm trying to see why thats happening:(:eek:







http://www.sportsauthority.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3472187&cp=&sr=1&kw=exercise+band&origkw=exercise+band&parentPage=search

[MH1313]

Every seems to have your answers covered, but I will inject what I can to this thread.

I destroyed a ball by letting the "pro" shop bake it...I now own a dead $200 ball. keep em room temp if possible!

You can definitely focus on some areas of your game with lifting weights, but I would recommend a full body approach. Work lower body, core, and upper body. To focus on the wrists do wrist curls. Another thing you can do is while you are doing other things, squeeze the snot out of the weight...it will lead to a better burnout of the forearm so after you are rested and it heals it will be stronger.

enjoy!

[JAnderson]

1. If a bowling ball gets too hot, you can damage the ball. This is more true of reactive resin equipment than the older plastic and rubber equipment. Not all manufacturers suggest a "bake" as the proper restorative treatment.

2. I agree with a previous poster: strong legs and core can be a huge help with your bowling game. Wrist curls will help strengthen the wrist and forearm to allow you to cup the ball longer, and stay "under" the ball longer. However, in my opinion, the good balance and solid foundation of strong legs and core are much more important to executing a good shot overall.

3. This has been well-covered - nice post bowl1820

4. If you're leaving single pin spares instead of multi-pin spares, that doesn't mean you're bowling worse, it means you're bowling better. Seriously, if you take careful stats, over time you'll find that in games where you are only leaving single pin spares scores are higher than scores in games where you are leaving more multi-pin spares. True, strikes are even better, but it depend which single pin spares you are leaving and why you are leaving them that will dictate the necessary adjustment. There's more than one way to leave a 10-pin or a 9-pin or a 5-pin. It is difficult to give correct advice without more information. One could easily fill a (long) chapter of a book with reasons for leaving corner pins and associated adjustments.