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aed2784
02-02-2012, 11:08 AM
I was just recently given the Virtual Gravity by a friend. I have been using the 2Fast and it has been working well. I know that the Gravity has a better back end reaction and is used for heavy oil. I needed a ball like this for sport shots and tournaments because of the different patterns. I am a little unsure of how to use this ball though. Any tips?

DaveAyotte
02-02-2012, 01:22 PM
There is a pretty serious difference between the 2 balls. The 2fast is a low-mid performance, and the VG has a lot more potential.

First off - did you already get the ball fitted, or fixed to fit you? I guess there is a slight (and I do mean slight) possibility that you and your friend have the same exact fit, but I would still have it checked by a pro-shop just to make sure. Even if it's just a size off on the thumb, it could mean all the difference in the world, and it's only like 10-15$ to fix.

Second - I assume this is the original VG that storm released a few years ago? If so, while you're at the pro-shop, you may want to have it bled out, so that the ball is as close to NIB condition as possible. This will give you the reaction that it's intended for.

Last - with the above being said, granted everyone's game/release/etc is different - but check this link out. It will give you a starting point as to home much of a difference the 2 balls have, and how much you need to move.

http://www.theultimatebowlingguide.theshoppbox.com/bowling-videos/storm-victory-road-marvel-virtual-gravity-and-2fast-bowling-balls-by-anthony-pepe/

aed2784
02-02-2012, 01:42 PM
Thankss for the advise Dave! I am relatively new to bowling in terms of the technical aspects like what you have listed above. I did plan on having my pro shop fit the ball time my specs and the ball definitely needs new grips. Yes, it is the original VG by storm. I know it's a bit older, but hey, if it will work the way I want it to, and judging by the reviews I've seen the ball can really slam the pins, there will be no need to drop 250 on a new one like I was going to.

Anyway, I will definitely bring up the suggestions you have made to my pro shop when I get it re-sized. Thanks again!

DaveAyotte
02-02-2012, 02:42 PM
No worries, glad I could help. Was there anything I could clarify for you on?

DaveAyotte
02-02-2012, 02:48 PM
also, never underestimate second hand bowling balls. As a matter of fact, I just acquired my friend's used Second Dimension. We have the same span, but I have a much smaller thumb - so as I mentioned, just a 10 dollar fix. As far as "bleeding out" it's just a special over they put it in, that doesn't get so hot as to warp the resin. I do this myself - but would never recommend anyone else to try. My oven goes down to 175. Then I stick a wooden spoon in the door so it stays open a crack and never gets that warm for a prolonged period of time. after 15 minutes, it gets enough oil out of the ball where you can see a noticeable difference in reaction. (In my experience anyway). Pro shops wouldn't charge you much for this service, and if they mess it up - at least you get a new ball out of it. I've seen balls split in half from this too - so, again I don't recommend doing it yourself ;)

aed2784
02-02-2012, 08:11 PM
That would never be something I tried myself. As I said, I am just startig to understand the technical mechanics of bowling and the equipment. I have been bowling for about 10 years on and off, but didn't get really serious until last year. I was going to ask you what you meant exaclty by "bleeding out" but you pretty much covered it in your last post. I will ask my pro shop to do so when they fix the finger positions and re-grip. I am going to throw the ball this Saturday just to see what it does for me seeing as how the finger positions aren't that far off from mine. Thank you for all your help!

striker12
02-08-2012, 09:45 PM
ok i got 1 thing to add to this you sead earlyer about a ball that will do good on sport patterns that are different i see how u want a new ball but no need...main thing is the layout if you got a ball drilled for length with sharp backend or strong arc then on heavy oil and long oil it will be abit harder to get the ball to mvoe on soo you would have to play streght up 10 and with alot of revs and slower speed then revs soo your ball can catch soo if u want a ball for heavy oils and for longer oil get one drilled for massive hook witch is what i got i got 2 of each of my bowling balls and they are drilled different but my freeze i have i got 4 of them all drilled different soo i can bowl on any oil pattern but i got avg speed and high revs my rev rate is from 400-550 have not checked it out yet i have changed abit with abit slower revs my rev rate use to be 650

aed2784
02-15-2012, 08:02 AM
So Striker, you are saying that you don't necessarily need a different ball for longer patterns, just the same ball drilled differently for more back end reaction? What about different cores and cover stocks?

bowl1820
02-15-2012, 08:31 AM
So Striker, you are saying that you don't necessarily need a different ball for longer patterns, just the same ball drilled differently for more back end reaction? What about different cores and cover stocks?

When it comes to a balls reaction.

The coverstock and surface prep represents the majority of how a ball reacts on the lane.

Different cores simply speaking affect the shape of the balls path down the lane. Symmetrical cores are typically smoother , more arc like. While Asymmetrical cores will be more angular, hockey stick like. Also things like the RG and Differential affect how the ball reads the lane. Low RG & High Diff. for oily, High RG & Low Diff. for dry lanes.

Layouts basically affect how far down the lane the ball goes, before it reacts. High pin positions (above fingers) go farther down the lane, Low pins (below fingers) react earlier. Also how far away the pin is from the Pap is basically the hook factor, how much flare the ball will have.

Now as for having several of the same ball with different layouts, that's one school of thought and there are plenty that do it. I know a guy who bowled the regional tour. He had all of the same ball, but with layouts with minor differences ( mainly pin to pap distances). That worked for him.

Now me I think that kind of limits you, unless you good at making adjustments in other areas. I'm more the school of basically the same layout, but with different coverstocks and cores and surfaces.

I think IMO that it can limit you

DaveAyotte
02-15-2012, 09:19 AM
i got 2 of each of my bowling balls and they are drilled different but my freeze i have i got 4 of them all drilled different soo i can bowl on any oil pattern

So, are you implying that you have 4 Columbia Freezes?

striker12
02-15-2012, 11:22 AM
yes i do have 4 freeze's but they are all drilled different for different oil conditions 1 is drilled for length with a strong arc went for light-med oil i cna throw it when they lanes are dry or major burt out my other is drilled for length with a sharp backend ment for medium oil another is for controllable hook which i can use on any oil condition on then dry but it reacts really come paired to the ball thats drilled for length with a sharpback and my last one is drilled for massive hook i cna use it on long and heavy oil patterns the freeze u can drill anyway and it will work....


aed2784 u dont want to get a ball that u have already redrilled caus they will afect the hook cause it wont be fully ballance properly but u can get another ball just get it drilled different like if your thinking of alongoil pattern get massive hook layout or if it long but mediumoil get length with a sharp backend it works good at first dose not look like its going to movein but it jsut snaps back in and hits the pins hard

main thing look for layouts that u can use on lots of patterns like i did with my freeze its a entry lvl ball and i can throwi like a high performance ball just on how i changed the layout and the grid i always go to 1000 abalon on my freeze other then my one thats drilled for length with a strong arc its factory finish but then i dont put factory inish polish on after i ut the ball to 1000 abalon i will a glaze polish on soo it abit polished abit dull and still has that smooth carry down the lane and a bigmove to the pocket

aed2784
02-17-2012, 09:07 PM
Thanks 1820! I had the one of the big guys in my pro shop look at how I threw the ball and what kind of down lane reaction I was getting out of it, just to see if he needed to make any adjustments. He drilled my 2fast and that ball was, actually still is, working really well for me so I trusted his decision. He redrilled it just a tad but didn't move the pin. The ball is doing exactly what I want it to, that is if I throw it right!! I think I have the right equipment now. All I have to work on is the consistancy in my approach and release.

aed2784
02-17-2012, 09:12 PM
Striker,

To me it looks like you have to change the finish on your balls a whole lot depending on what type of pettern you are throwing on. You said some of them you have to either dull down and polish up. Does that have any long term effects on the cover stock?

striker12
02-17-2012, 09:51 PM
aed no it dose not do nothing do the cover stoke as long as u use to correct stuff the main thing is abolon (how ever u spell it) and just give it alittle duff then polish it if u have to i get the proshop to do the big changes but if im at the lanes bowling then i do it but i got my own factory finsih polish but i dont like useing it much it makes the ball slid but my pro shop has this thing dont know what it is but it jsut gives alitte glaze of polish on the ball for that nice backend move and good slid down the lane but also i cant throw a ball thats out of box cause i got too much speed and to much revs that most of the balls jsut get no grip soo thats why i bring the grid down abit to give it some teeth on the lanes