De-Oiling!

[eugene02]

I guess this question may have been asked many times already.. But I can't find it... So.. How do one goes about de-oiling their ball.. Thanks in advance!

[dgz924s]

Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

[bowl1820]

Originally it was called the Hot water and Dawn method. What it did was help remove oil that had been absorbed into the cover of the ball.

Here is the original instructions on how to do it. Now others might do it a little different, but its the basic principle.

This is from the Morich site-

http://www.morichbowling.com/BowlingBalls/BowlingBall_Cleaning.htm

Cleaning

First and foremost, we at MoRich strongly believe that preventative maintenance is the key to a cover's longevity. Our recommendation is to clean your bowling equipment after every use (practice, league, or tournament session) with a quality USBC approved cleaner. No matter which cleaner you choose to use, we urge you to follow the directions that come with the product. These companies specialize in cleaning products and have done extensive research in bringing their products to the marketplace.

We have received many inquires regarding the use of commercial cleaners such as 409, Simple-Green, and Windex, to list just a few, in cleaning our equipment. Though these products are specially formulated for removing grease and oil components from surfaces, we DO NOT recommend them as a cleaning product for our equipment.

Not to belabor the point, but we strongly recommend that you clean any MoRich product (especially the aggressive coverstocks) after every use. If a ball is used and then put away without cleaning, the oil and dirt will have a greater chance to be absorbed deeper into the coverstock. Whereas, if the ball is cleaned immediately after use, the oil and dirt is limited to the surface and/or just below. We hear time and time again from people who have lost hook in their equipment and swear they clean it on a regular basis (often times they swear they clean it immediately after use). Only when the question is asked (before and after bowling?) is the real problem brought to light. Cleaning a ball just before use is almost a useless procedure. Using any accepted cleaner and towel will only clean a very fine layer and the deeper trapped oil and dirt still remain. Please keep in mind that using dirty towels only transfer dirt and oil back to the ball so please keep your towels just as clean! Even performing a quick sanding will get a little deeper, but won't remove the deeply rooted oil and dirt that was neglected from the beginning.

So what to do? When this situation occurs, the cover needs a deep cleaning of some kind to pull out as much oil and dirt from as deep as possible without harming the coverstock. The one method we really like is a simple "Hot Water Bath." This procedure helps to make sure that the ball is not subjected to any extreme temperature changes that could cause the cover to crack or separate from the core. Though the process is easy, don't rush the steps! So here we go...

1. Have the ball wet sanded to about 400-grit to open the cover's pores.
2. Fill a tub or bucket (5 gallon buckets work well) with hot tap water and about 2-3 teaspoons of Dawn dish detergent.
3. Wash the ball using a wash cloth or a scotch brite pad (burgundy or green) for a few minutes.
4. Remove the ball from the soapy water and rinse the tub (or bucket) clean and refill it with hot water (no soap).
5. Place the ball in the water and wash it clean with a clean cloth or new scotch brite pad. You will probably notice that a soapy film will appear in the water. This is residue that was trapped in the coverstock (much like the oil and dirt was).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until no soapy residue remains, This make 2 or 3 times to achieve, depending upon the amount of soap that was used. You don't want to use too much soap, but you need enough to cut through the oil and dirt.
7. After the soap has been completely removed from the coverstock, allow the ball to air dry at room temperature.
8. Have the ball wet sanded with 400-grit paper and then follow the steps to bring it back to its factory finish as described in our resurfacing section.

Once this procedure has been completed, make every attempt to clean the ball after each session of use.

The ONE cleaning method that we strongly oppose is "baking" (or using heat of any kind) a ball. Most of the methods that use "heat" as a cleaning method suggest that this is a way to "revive" the ball after it has lost an obvious amount of hook. For reviving a ball, we recommend checking into Ebonite's "Hook Again" system. While we at MoRich have not done much testing with it, we have heard many good things about it. Again, check with your Pro Shop operator or the company itself.

[eugene02]

Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.


So I don't need to sand my ball or anything right? because I don't know how to do it.. and.. other thn Dawn dishwashing liquid.. what else can I use?

[eugene02]

because I think that SG doesn't have this brand of dishwashing liquid ~_~

[eugene02]

Originally it was called the Hot water and Dawn method. What it did was help remove oil that had been absorbed into the cover of the ball.

Here is the original instructions on how to do it. Now others might do it a little different, but its the basic principle.

This is from the Morich site-

http://www.morichbowling.com/BowlingBalls/BowlingBall_Cleaning.htm

Cleaning

First and foremost, we at MoRich strongly believe that preventative maintenance is the key to a cover's longevity. Our recommendation is to clean your bowling equipment after every use (practice, league, or tournament session) with a quality USBC approved cleaner. No matter which cleaner you choose to use, we urge you to follow the directions that come with the product. These companies specialize in cleaning products and have done extensive research in bringing their products to the marketplace.

We have received many inquires regarding the use of commercial cleaners such as 409, Simple-Green, and Windex, to list just a few, in cleaning our equipment. Though these products are specially formulated for removing grease and oil components from surfaces, we DO NOT recommend them as a cleaning product for our equipment.

Not to belabor the point, but we strongly recommend that you clean any MoRich product (especially the aggressive coverstocks) after every use. If a ball is used and then put away without cleaning, the oil and dirt will have a greater chance to be absorbed deeper into the coverstock. Whereas, if the ball is cleaned immediately after use, the oil and dirt is limited to the surface and/or just below. We hear time and time again from people who have lost hook in their equipment and swear they clean it on a regular basis (often times they swear they clean it immediately after use). Only when the question is asked (before and after bowling?) is the real problem brought to light. Cleaning a ball just before use is almost a useless procedure. Using any accepted cleaner and towel will only clean a very fine layer and the deeper trapped oil and dirt still remain. Please keep in mind that using dirty towels only transfer dirt and oil back to the ball so please keep your towels just as clean! Even performing a quick sanding will get a little deeper, but won't remove the deeply rooted oil and dirt that was neglected from the beginning.

So what to do? When this situation occurs, the cover needs a deep cleaning of some kind to pull out as much oil and dirt from as deep as possible without harming the coverstock. The one method we really like is a simple "Hot Water Bath." This procedure helps to make sure that the ball is not subjected to any extreme temperature changes that could cause the cover to crack or separate from the core. Though the process is easy, don't rush the steps! So here we go...

1. Have the ball wet sanded to about 400-grit to open the cover's pores.
2. Fill a tub or bucket (5 gallon buckets work well) with hot tap water and about 2-3 teaspoons of Dawn dish detergent.
3. Wash the ball using a wash cloth or a scotch brite pad (burgundy or green) for a few minutes.
4. Remove the ball from the soapy water and rinse the tub (or bucket) clean and refill it with hot water (no soap).
5. Place the ball in the water and wash it clean with a clean cloth or new scotch brite pad. You will probably notice that a soapy film will appear in the water. This is residue that was trapped in the coverstock (much like the oil and dirt was).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until no soapy residue remains, This make 2 or 3 times to achieve, depending upon the amount of soap that was used. You don't want to use too much soap, but you need enough to cut through the oil and dirt.
7. After the soap has been completely removed from the coverstock, allow the ball to air dry at room temperature.
8. Have the ball wet sanded with 400-grit paper and then follow the steps to bring it back to its factory finish as described in our resurfacing section.

Once this procedure has been completed, make every attempt to clean the ball after each session of use.

The ONE cleaning method that we strongly oppose is "baking" (or using heat of any kind) a ball. Most of the methods that use "heat" as a cleaning method suggest that this is a way to "revive" the ball after it has lost an obvious amount of hook. For reviving a ball, we recommend checking into Ebonite's "Hook Again" system. While we at MoRich have not done much testing with it, we have heard many good things about it. Again, check with your Pro Shop operator or the company itself.

too complicated for me >_<

[billf]

Sanding is not that complicated. Put ball in the water. Hold sandpaper in palm of hand and using weight of hand only, rub in a circular motion for about 30 seconds per section. The package of sandpaper will say "wet sanding" on it. If you have a ball you don't use anymore practice with that ball first. If it's still too hard then take it to a pro shop or pay a friend to do it for you.

[bowl1820]

So I don't need to sand my ball or anything right? because I don't know how to do it.. and.. other thn Dawn dishwashing liquid.. what else can I use?

Sanding is not mandatory, you can still do a hot water and dawn soak. You do the sanding if you want the full treatment, it's meant open the pores of the ball That have become plugged with dirt and grime.

another way to remove oil is use the dishwasher method, just put the ball in the dishwasher,(DO NOT USE THE DRYER SETTING THOUGH IT WILL RUIN THE BALL).

another way to remove oil, is go to the proshop see if they have a revivor oven it is made for removing oil safely.

Dont use a home oven, if you dont know what your doing you will ruin your ball.

[eugene02]

Sanding is not mandatory, you can still do a hot water and dawn soak. You do the sanding if you want the full treatment, it's meant open the pores of the ball That have become plugged with dirt and grime.

another way to remove oil is use the dishwasher method, just put the ball in the dishwasher,(DO NOT USE THE DRYER SETTING THOUGH IT WILL RUIN THE BALL).

another way to remove oil, is go to the proshop see if they have a revivor oven it is made for removing oil safely.

Dont use a home oven, if you dont know what your doing you will ruin your ball.

other thn Dawn soak what else can I use ?

[eugene02]

Sanding is not that complicated. Put ball in the water. Hold sandpaper in palm of hand and using weight of hand only, rub in a circular motion for about 30 seconds per section. The package of sandpaper will say "wet sanding" on it. If you have a ball you don't use anymore practice with that ball first. If it's still too hard then take it to a pro shop or pay a friend to do it for you.

only have 1 ball at the moment >_> too poor to afford more.. i guess in my country bringing to the shop will cost at least $20-$50 SGD at least..

[dgz924s]

other thn Dawn soak what else can I use ?

Dawn is used because it cuts grease and oils. It was/is used on waterfowl that were coated in oil during oil spills to clean them up. If you can find a detergent that claims to cut grease/oil use it. If not just use what ever dishwashing liquid you have and add a 1/4 cup or so of rubbing alcohol to the water.

I caution the use of a diishwasher as they can get too hot. I know a guy who used one and destroyed his ball. I suggest getting an oven thermometer put it in the DW and do test run to see what temperature it gets and check several times through the wash and rinse cycles to see if it gets over 140 at any stage . Even if the dry mode is turned off some DW machine still use the heating element during the wash cycle.

If the temps are safe (140 deg.) then go ahead and use the DW. But do not use any detergent just run it with water only.

[bowl1820]

other thn Dawn soak what else can I use ?

If you mean what other kind of soap, Dawn has always been the preferred one. But most dish soap's should work.

As for other way's to remove oil, you could do it in a hot shower.

A slow method is to bury it in a bucket of oil dry or cat litter. (I've done this one, it will pull some out.)

Not saying these are safe
but some guys put them in a hot car let them sweat (don't let the sun shine directly on it.).

Set it in the yard under the hot sun and sweat, rotate every so often.


Now with a cardboard box and a hair dryer , you can make a simple ball sweater.

Just take a box about twice the size of a ball box. Set the ball on a rag and set the box over the ball.
cut a hole in the side of the box near the edge and stick the hair dryer through the hole and turn it on (I'd do it near the top so it doesn't blow right on the ball)

the hot air will circulate around the box, heating the ball causing it to sweat.

[eugene02]

Dawn is used because it cuts grease and oils. It was/is used on waterfowl that were coated in oil during oil spills to clean them up. If you can find a detergent that claims to cut grease/oil use it. If not just use what ever dishwashing liquid you have and add a 1/4 cup or so of rubbing alcohol to the water.

I caution the use of a diishwasher as they can get too hot. I know a guy who used one and destroyed his ball. I suggest getting an oven thermometer put it in the DW and do test run to see what temperature it gets and check several times through the wash and rinse cycles to see if it gets over 140 at any stage . Even if the dry mode is turned off some DW machine still use the heating element during the wash cycle.

If the temps are safe (140 deg.) then go ahead and use the DW. But do not use any detergent just run it with water only.

In singapore we don't normally have a DishWasher in our homes.. so.. that's out I guess..

[Gatorbait724]

Hmm I actually use the simple green on my Storm balls... Is it bad for the cover stock? Or do they think it doesn't clean it well enough?

[martin]

i wonder if there is something similar to the Dawn soap here in Indonesia.. is it like a usual dishwashing liquid?

[chrono00]

yea it's just a brand of dishwashing soap really.

I just used it to clean both my balls and towels today. first batch of water was REALLY dark lol

[eugene02]

Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.

I've washed the ball with this method.. my question now is.. I just let the ball be in a room with the finger and thumb plug facing down and within 24hrs thn it can be used again?

[dgz924s]

24 hours is just a generalized time frame I wouldn't be too concerned, if it feels dry in the finger holes use it.

[martin]

hmm do we cover the holes when putting the ball in the water?

[dgz924s]

hmm do we cover the holes when putting the ball in the water?

No need to cover them as it actually aids in oil exiting the coverstock.

[bowl1820]

hmm do we cover the holes when putting the ball in the water?


No need to cover them as it actually aids in oil exiting the coverstock.

Having water go into the finger holes doe's nothing to help the oil exit the coverstock!

If it did everyone would be putting hoses in their thumbholes and trying to pump water into the ball till it squirted out of every pore on the ball. Everyone in the forums would be talking about how many PSI the water pressure should be and the best hose to use.

The simplest way to keep some water out of the holes is to point the holes down when you put it in the bucket.

You can also put duct tape over the holes or cork them with just about anything that fits the hole.

[dgz924s]

I guess I have been reading the wrong ball maintenance material. Please disregard my reply on the finger holes, sorry to lead anyone the wrong direction!

[eugene02]

Having water go into the finger holes doe's nothing to help the oil exit the coverstock!

If it did everyone would be putting hoses in their thumbholes and trying to pump water into the ball till it squirted out of every pore on the ball. Everyone in the forums would be talking about how many PSI the water pressure should be and the best hose to use.

The simplest way to keep some water out of the holes is to point the holes down when you put it in the bucket.

You can also put duct tape over the holes or cork them with just about anything that fits the hole.

what if i didn't cover it.. doesn't really matter uh? i left it facing up all the while in the pail every 15 mins..

[eugene02]

Get a 5 Gal. bucket fill with hot water, just hot enough to put your hand in it and not scream in pain (140 Deg.) max. Use a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid and soak the ball for 15 minutes, pour out the water and quickly wipe the ball off. Clean out the oil residue from the bucket and repeat. Continue doing this until you no longer feel oil on the ball while submerged in the water. I quit using Dawn after the first 2-3 soaks this way I can tell if the oil is out better. Depending on how saturated the ball is this process may take a number of soaks, remember to change water and rinse the bucket out after each 15 minute soak. Do not tape over the finger/thumb holes either. Allow to dry for 24 hours.


I did it for 5 times.. 2 times with dishwashing liquid. the other 3 with just water. put there's still a layer of oil on top of the water when i take out the bowling ball.. so i only did it for 5 times.. hope it does gets better..

[bowl1820]

what if i didn't cover it.. doesn't really matter uh? i left it facing up all the while in the pail every 15 mins..

The main thing with getting water in the holes is that, if you try and use the ball too quickly afterwards it may hang on your fingers or thumb do to the moisture lingering in the holes.

So it's not that big of a deal if water gets in (the core is not going to fill full of water), just let it set and dry out.

If you cover the holes, basically your good to go right then no waiting.

I would clean the holes out, just in case any residue gets on the inserts or thumb hole (like soap or oil) if you did cover the holes.

[martin]

so basically it's better to cover the holes right?

[skycomag]

how often can you dawn soak the ball,monthly, weekly or ?
thanks

[bowl1820]

how often can you dawn soak the ball,monthly, weekly or ?
thanks

Most say at about every 60 games.

[martin]

i've used my ball for almost 2 years (hundreds of games) and never deoiled it.. wonder how much oil there is in there.. lol..

[eugene02]

i've used my ball for almost 2 years (hundreds of games) and never deoiled it.. wonder how much oil there is in there.. lol..

try deoiling it and you will be amazed by how much oil comes out in the bucket >_< wew! even mine less thn 200 games (I'm guessing) after 5 wash there's still a layer of oil in the water!

[chrono00]

i've used my ball for almost 2 years (hundreds of games) and never deoiled it.. wonder how much oil there is in there.. lol..

you'd be surprised. I didn't touch my v energy for almost a year. or the towel the came with it. I did the towel first in a small bowl, and the water was pretty dark.

if just the towle soaked up that much oil from the ball...imagine how much is still in your ball....

I work in a resturant....put my VE through the industrial strength dishwasher, and then the next day day bowled my highest series (i'm sure the heat from the machine and the soap getting all the oil out helped...but I do believe part was coincidence/confidence)

[martin]

maybe i'll try out with my old unused ball (to make sure i get the procedure right.. never been deoiled also.. and it's been used maybe 50-100 games) soon, then try to surprise myself by deoiling my Anaconda.. lol..

[eugene02]

maybe i'll try out with my old unused ball (to make sure i get the procedure right.. never been deoiled also.. and it's been used maybe 50-100 games) soon, then try to surprise myself by deoiling my Anaconda.. lol..

do try and let us know how many times did you do before getting ALL of the oil out!
i myself am interested to know as well :)

[martin]

just wondering, does deoiling work only with reactive balls? tried doing it with a spare ball and no oil came out.. or maybe i did something wrong.. hmm...

[eugene02]

just wondering, does deoiling work only with reactive balls? tried doing it with a spare ball and no oil came out.. or maybe i did something wrong.. hmm...

from what i known, reactive balls have pores in the balls which absorbs oil to get friction on the ground to hook while polyester ball, urethane ball doesn't have pores in their ball which makes it impossible for them to absorb oil.. therefore, no oil comes out of the ball..

[martin]

maybe i'll try with reactive balls some time..

[eugene02]

maybe i'll try with reactive balls some time..

with warm water.. not hot! or else the coverstock may crack!

[bowl1820]

just wondering, does deoiling work only with reactive balls? tried doing it with a spare ball and no oil came out.. or maybe i did something wrong.. hmm...

No you can't do it on plastic spare balls.

[eugene02]

No you can't do it on plastic spare balls.

like what i've said above.. hee!

[billf]

like what i've said above.. hee!t quite

Not quite. Urethane does retain oil and can be de-oil will fabulous results.

[eugene02]

t quite

Not quite. Urethane does retain oil and can be de-oil will fabulous results.

Currently there are 4 different types of coverstocks for ten-pin bowling balls: polyester, urethane, reactive resin and particle resin.[8] Each coverstock of a bowling has its own intended friction and purpose when it is rolled down the lane. The coverstock also allows the bowling ball to display its potential.

Polyester or plastic bowling balls have the lowest friction and is meant to be rolled down the lane in a straight path. There are no pores in the ball, it will not absorb any oil as it rolls down the lane and will simply slide down. This type of coverstock is generally used by professional and competitive bowlers for converting spares.

Urethane bowling balls provide slightly more friction than polyester bowling balls. Just like polyester bowling balls, urethane bowling balls have no pores in the ball. This type of ball is also generally used like a polyester ball but will have a better reaction as it rolls down the lane.

Reactive resin bowling balls are more common among professional and competitive bowlers. This coverstock is a similar coverstock to the urethane but also has pores. The pores in the bowling ball will allow the ball to absorb the oil as it is rolling down the lane. This will allow the ball to retain the energy from the release and have a stronger reaction when it comes in contact with a part of the lane without oil (usually towards the end of the lane or "backend").

Particle resin bowling balls are also common among professional competitive bowlers. This coverstock incorporates silica particles into reactive resin coverstock, which allows the ball to slide down the lane more than the reactive resin bowling balls. It is easier for the bowler to control the reaction of this bowling ball than that of the reactive resin bowling ball.

What i've read from the wikipedia..

[eugene02]

anyone heard of The Wave from powerhouse? my pro shop that i frequently go to just brought that in recently..

[bowl1820]

Currently there are 4 different types of coverstocks for ten-pin bowling balls: polyester, urethane, reactive resin and particle resin.[8] Each coverstock of a bowling has its own intended friction and purpose when it is rolled down the lane. The coverstock also allows the bowling ball to display its potential.

Lets see, There's 6 base coverstock's that are in use.
Rubber, Polyester, Urethane, Reactive Resin, Particle and Epoxy Resin.

Plus the variants, Pearlized Urethane, Pearlized Reactive Resin, Pearlized Particle and Hybrid coverstock's. Not to mention ones like Acryllium and Proactive.


Polyester or plastic bowling balls have the lowest friction and is meant to be rolled down the lane in a straight path. There are no pores in the ball, it will not absorb any oil as it rolls down the lane and will simply slide down. This type of coverstock is generally used by professional and competitive bowlers for converting spares.

They are also used generally as house balls and by beginner bowler's.


Urethane bowling balls provide slightly more friction than polyester bowling balls. Just like polyester bowling balls, urethane bowling balls have no pores in the ball. This type of ball is also generally used like a polyester ball but will have a better reaction as it rolls down the lane.

Urethane balls do absorb oil, just not as fast (the oil would sit on the cover, not be immediately sucked into the cover) or to the extent of reactive balls. Anyone who used to leave their urethane balls in the car all day can tell you this.


Reactive resin bowling balls are more common among professional and competitive bowlers. This coverstock is a similar coverstock to the urethane but also has pores. The pores in the bowling ball will allow the ball to absorb the oil as it is rolling down the lane. This will allow the ball to retain the energy from the release and have a stronger reaction when it comes in contact with a part of the lane without oil (usually towards the end of the lane or "backend").

The oil that the ball in sliding on is what lets the ball retain energy. The pores absorbing the oil give the balls more traction in the oil. This combined with the balls Flare (the migration of the track around the ball, which is used to keep a fresh dry surface in contact with the lane.) give the ball it powerful hooking ability.


Particle resin bowling balls are also common among professional competitive bowlers. This coverstock incorporates silica particles into reactive resin coverstock, which allows the ball to slide down the lane more than the reactive resin bowling balls. It is easier for the bowler to control the reaction of this bowling ball than that of the reactive resin bowling ball.

This is more of a description of a pearlized ball! (A pearlized ball is one that has had mica added to the cover) The particles added to the ball don't "allow the ball to slide down the lane more", they act like studs on a snow tire and give it even more traction in the oil. The particles can be made of glass beads, plastic and some other materials.

[eugene02]

Lets see, There's 6 base coverstock's that are in use.
Rubber, Polyester, Urethane, Reactive Resin, Particle and Epoxy Resin.

Plus the variants, Pearlized Urethane, Pearlized Reactive Resin, Pearlized Particle and Hybrid coverstock's. Not to mention ones like Acryllium and Proactive.



They are also used generally as house balls and by beginner bowler's.



Urethane balls do absorb oil, just not as fast (the oil would sit on the cover, not be immediately sucked into the cover) or to the extent of reactive balls. Anyone who used to leave their urethane balls in the car all day can tell you this.



The oil that the ball in sliding on is what lets the ball retain energy. The pores absorbing the oil give the balls more traction in the oil. This combined with the balls Flare (the migration of the track around the ball, which is used to keep a fresh dry surface in contact with the lane.) give the ball it powerful hooking ability.



This is more of a description of a pearlized ball! (A pearlized ball is one that has had mica added to the cover) The particles added to the ball don't "allow the ball to slide down the lane more", they act like studs on a snow tire and give it even more traction in the oil. The particles can be made of glass beads, plastic and some other materials.

means wikipedia nothing much true uh.. >_> wew!

[billf]

means wikipedia nothing much true uh.. >_> wew!

You have to keep in mind, Wikipedia's information is posted by regular people. Some with vast, accurate knowledge, others without. The "pro" coach in my thread on "how not to perform a 5 step approach" can actually post what he thinks he know on there. Then, unfortunately, someone can read that a believe it's a fact. Anytime human beings are part of something the possibility for a mistake is greatly increased as we are from from perfect creatures.

[eugene02]

You have to keep in mind, Wikipedia's information is posted by regular people. Some with vast, accurate knowledge, others without. The "pro" coach in my thread on "how not to perform a 5 step approach" can actually post what he thinks he know on there. Then, unfortunately, someone can read that a believe it's a fact. Anytime human beings are part of something the possibility for a mistake is greatly increased as we are from from perfect creatures.

i guess guess that different people has different perception on things!

[chrono00]

means wikipedia nothing much true uh.. >_> wew!

it's wikipedia....your bound to find a few misguided posts on there lol

[eugene02]

it's wikipedia....your bound to find a few misguided posts on there lol

guess so.. cant totally believe in it now.. 1/2 1/2 only!

[HughScot]

..............(DO NOT USE THE DRYER SETTING THOUGH IT WILL RUIN THE BALL).


Before contacting the two manufacturers I used the dishwasher method and did use the dryer setting...on maybe 2 occasions...with no ill effect. I won't try it again.