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Thread: Question on short pin balls

  1. #1
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    Default Question on short pin balls

    Not sure if this is the right place to post this question, but here goes:

    What is the effect a very short pin (1") on what you can do with a ball?

    I recently played with a ball that was drilled pin below ring finger (slightly to the and right below) , with a 1" pin. The ball went almost straight no matter how much hand I put into it.

    I'm pretty new to this stuff... not a pro shop owner or someone who drills his own equipment. Just curious!

    Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by kev3inp View Post
    I'm surprised no pro shop owners, or employees, or self described experts have chimed in on this one. It's been my experience that short pins limit your drilling options, but make for great benchmark balls to use to read a lane. They don't seem to flare as much, so maybe that's why you're not seeing much hook, or since I think they roll a bit earlier, maybe it's used up its energy by the time you expect to see the hook.
    Thanks. I was also disappointed that I didn't get any bites at this one. Maybe I'll try another board and post back what I hear for others that are interested.
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    Hello DougB Sorry for the delay as its hard to get answers.

    The pin distance on a ball is the separation between the heaviest point (Center of Gravity, mark by Manufacturer) and the top of the weightblock (the pin). If both are close, it is harder to manipulate more than the weightblock for down lane effect. Further apart, a pin out, affords a driller two points to manipulate to help fine tune ball reaction, occasionally using a weight hole.

    Ball reaction can be manipulated if a player has the skills. Under 150 average, a performance ball will start to help with your effect to the pocket, but because of lesser skills occasionally will cause difficulty with spares. A 170+ average bowler has better skills, typically is becoming better at reading lanes and reading ball reaction, for both first ball and spares. A 190+ average bowler typically hits the pocket most of the time, often equipment helps make them more effective strike bowlers, but lack of practice or understanding of the need to have a plan for spares leads them to an erratic spare game. The solid 190+ bowler, with a good spare game often doesn't match up well, with the environment (lanes to slick for faster ball speed, lanes to dry for slower speed, or a rev rate that is to violent (splits) or not strong enough (weak hitting ball)). 200+ bowlers hits the pocket essentially ever shot, strikes a fair amount, has a solid spare game. For every 10 pins better than 200, is primarily the result of good to great matchups (speed, rev rate, lane condition and ball). One other possibility, any bowler can have any of the above averages and/or combination's of skill set and be terrible or just be flat out terrific (sometimes the bowling gods reward dumb luck).

    Layout is important for any performance ball. The ball must react where you need it to and have energy left at the pins. When you are investing in multiple bowling balls, layout can differentiate and fine tune the differences. Too much concern with layout often causes subtle effects causing a ball to hook a little too early and hit a little weak, a little too late and not drive and carry well or some variation. Or, layout doesn't allow flexibility on a given lane condition. A ball may play to "touchy" where minor errors cause carry problems or worse (splits, bad counts).

    Buy the ball to get the amount of hook you need, the pin placement is a MINOR factor in reaction. There are no magic bowling balls or magic layouts. Layout is a vehicle of speed, rev rate, axis tilt, axis rotation, surface preparation, lane condition and where does a particular ball reaction need to fall in your current arsenal. Ball choice should determine general look (ball path from foul line to pins). Layout encourages a ball that is created to bite early, to bite a little later, or vise versa. A 4 inch pin and a leverage pin (3 3/8- 3 3/4) roll similarly, but a bowlers speed or "black and white" lane condition or other factors might cause the leverage pin to be a bit to early. There are way to many factors to create a matrix of use this or don't use that, when this is present or the ball does that. That is why an educated ball driller is your best asset as a bowler.

    So really if you can hold your wrist and make the ball spin and do what you want it to do, then a shorter pin should be ok, yet for normal approach, technique, and best reaction get a pin and weight that matches what you want the ball to do.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by dougb View Post
    Thanks. I was also disappointed that I didn't get any bites at this one. Maybe I'll try another board and post back what I hear for others that are interested.

    Well although I encourage any and all bowlers to get the help they need, please do let me know personally if you need any help. If needed I will call pro shops and ask them your question. Every member here matters to me and I will go to any length to help everyone I can.

    I do hope this helps if not let me know and I will research further.

    Also thanks Kev3inp for helping. It is hard for some members to leave replies on something they may not be sure of. I am proud that you are a Senior Moderator here and I know that you are very educated about bowling as well as life and many other things.You are a true asset to this world.

    Chris
    Go Broncos!

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    Quote Originally Posted by The KingPin View Post
    Well although I encourage any and all bowlers to get the help they need, please do let me know personally if you need any help. If needed I will call pro shops and ask them your question. Every member here matters to me and I will go to any length to help everyone I can.

    I do hope this helps if not let me know and I will research further.

    Also thanks Kev3inp for helping. It is hard for some members to leave replies on something they may not be sure of. I am proud that you are a Senior Moderator here and I know that you are very educated about bowling as well as life and many other things.You are a true asset to this world.

    Chris
    Chris and Kev,

    Thanks for the responses. Kev even went and tracked down my post on another site and told me the guy who gave me advice was right-on:

    A short pin helps us create an earlier roll vs a high pin. The earlier roll may be causing you to lose too much energy on the ball which in turn not have any backend motion or movement which is why it appears "straight".

    Usually though, it is more a matter of matching the right cover of a ball to a lane condition so it can go thru its proper phases of skid/hook/roll.

    Anyway, I think this new board is great and I appreciate the help.

    Doug
    I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling Forums and winner of a weekly ball contest!

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    That is Great. Kev is one of a kind. I am honored he is here
    Go Broncos!

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