My Nexxus and Flat 10s

[The German Shepherd]

A couple of weeks ago, I scuffed my Nexxus down to 1000 (OOB is 1500) because it seemd like it was going too long. Now it appears that the ball is standing up too quickly and I am leaving a load of flat 10 pins. What would happen if I put a coat of polish on the Nexxus? Would this help? Theoretically, shouldn't this help the ball to conserve more energy for the back end???

What say you?

Jay

[jimlc2001]

What I am reading is the ball reacts too early and runs out of power by the time it hits the pocket. Correct? Polish will save rotational energy to the breakpoint, creating more of a skid-snap reaction, but it might add more length than you want depending on your layout.

[The German Shepherd]

I have it set up to be very aggressive (Pin down) and it has a X hole in the P3...

Jay

[billf]

Worth a try. A coat of polish seems to be close to the equivalent of adding an extra 250 in grit which would put you between the 1000 & 1500.

[DanielMareina]

Usually I agree with billf 100%, but polish changes my equipment ALOT more than 250 grit. I would say it is more like delaying your reaction by 10 feet, than a difference in grit. To the question, polish can help, but it can also make the ball float through the break point. Asymetrical balls are designed to read the midlane, and if it doesn't, you will not like the reaction you get. I would suggest changing the base coat. I would put a heavy pressure 500 grit base coat, and then top coat with 2000. This will get it through the front of the lane, but the heavier base coat will make it grab the lane harder in the backend. I am very suprised that the OOB wasn't picking up early enough for you to be honest. That ball is very aggresive, and if you have a pin down layout, it should react strongly! Best of luck to you!

[The German Shepherd]

Usually I agree with billf 100%, but polish changes my equipment ALOT more than 250 grit. I would say it is more like delaying your reaction by 10 feet, than a difference in grit. To the question, polish can help, but it can also make the ball float through the break point. Asymetrical balls are designed to read the midlane, and if it doesn't, you will not like the reaction you get. I would suggest changing the base coat. I would put a heavy pressure 500 grit base coat, and then top coat with 2000. This will get it through the front of the lane, but the heavier base coat will make it grab the lane harder in the backend. I am very suprised that the OOB wasn't picking up early enough for you to be honest. That ball is very aggresive, and if you have a pin down layout, it should react strongly! Best of luck to you!

I tried the polish idea and I can tell you that it gave me the reaction I was looking for out of this ball. Love it!

Jay

[DanielMareina]

I am very glad that it worked out for you! Best of luck on leaving no more ten pins, flat or otherwise

[billf]

I tend to put my polish on in kind of thin coats. I figure it's easier to add more than subtract and start over.

[DanielMareina]

That is very true bill. In that case, I am sure what your were saying is correct. I usually sand my stuff down more than polish it up. I have tried polish on matte finish balls a few times, and just never thought it reacted well. Now if I polish my stuff, I actually will put the polish on an abralon pad, so it sands and polishes at the same time. It is a trick my employee taught me, and I think it is close to the best of both worlds if you need length but don't want to sacrifice too much reaction.

[billf]

Thanks for the tip. I never would have thought of putting the polish on the abralon pad. I will try that this week.