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Thread: Just realized I don't have a light oil ball.

  1. #1
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    Default Just realized I don't have a light oil ball.

    Well this is going to be a pretty redundant thread in many ways but..

    I have a Storm Vivid, Modern Marvel and a DV8 Misfit.

    The Vivid isn't drilled nor should it be until I get a consistent release/style and get to use it on something that has really heavy oil.

    The Modern Marvel I bought for heavy oil house shot so it's great for that. But recently I'm realizing the Misfit might be for heavy oil as well, a step below the Modern Marvel perhaps?

    So on drier lanes (and can anyone give me an estimate how many games it takes to "dry out" lanes? Say you have 4 people bowling. Also, when people say dry, does that mean there is still oil on the lane but thinner or literally no oil?), I think I need something. I would like to get a Storm ball.

    Now here's my question, the lighter oil balls tend to be a lot cheaper too. So I'm worried that they're making them for the entry level crowd. I know I've asked this before but I'm not sure what to make of it. Time to go look at that other thread. But basically I'm wondering if the cores aren't as good etc/won't hit as hard/carry.

    Ohh I do have a year old Brunswick Damage, maybe I can use that?

  2. #2
    Bowler jimlc2001's Avatar
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    Hopefully I can help.

    The Modern Marvel should be a Med-Heavy ball. The Vivid should be stronger and the Misfit weaker. This is assuming they are all drilled similar. If you have the DV8 drilled aggressively and the MM drilled weak, the DV8 might out hook the MM.

    As for how many games it takes to dry out a lane ? That depends on the oil, player's tracks, and equipment used. If everyone is playing a similar line and using solid or matte bowling balls on a fairly dry house shot, the line will dry up within the first game. I typically have to go to a weaker ball after the 2nd game.

    Use the Damage, and if it's too strong, add polish. Also the weaker balls are cheaper because there is less research into the core/coverstock combinations. The cores are typically generic and symmetrical, and the coverstocks are usually from previous years, but that doesn't mean they don't hit. I have a great reaction with the Brunswick Karma during the late games. And I'm even thinking about purchasing urethane for the really dry houses.
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  3. #3
    Bowling God billf's Avatar
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    ^^^100% correct.
    I have certain opponents that I know can't play a different line, change rev rate, speed, etc. I will use the HRR during practice right down their line with as many revs and speed as I can get to ruin their line. I will play their line until I'm sure they can't hit the pocket with any authority, then I will move to where I want to play. The point being, what line is being used the most and with the more aggressive equipment will dry up quicker. Dry up does not necessarily mean no oil just lighter.
    As for a Storm ball for light oil conditions, Natural Pearl. Throw this bad boy straight up 10 and adjust from there. It hits hard and will carry. If you wanted, you can with this ball, play straight up 5 with some hand right from the start (lanes are real dry from 1-5).
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  4. #4
    Cranker
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    I have a light oil ball(Roto Grip-Shout)that was drill to be a spare ball on steroids. I use it when lanes are severly dry-light oil. It hits just as hard as my neXus solid,Defiant,beserk,Epidemic,919C,Bullwhip SE. Don't let the price fool you,as their are a lot of good entry level balls that hit just as hard as the expensive balls on the right lane conditions. Example-Slingshot & Cyclone are entry level,but,are very popular balls that hit hard like the big boys and are around $120-$130.

    Zothen

  5. #5
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    kev3inp's Avatar
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    I'm still partial to my Slingshot for light oil. Right up 5 with normal revs and it hits nice. Not much good in oil, but that's not why I have it.

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