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Thread: Lucid surface question

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    Quote Originally Posted by MICHAEL View Post
    What will reduce the amout of hook at the back end? I was thinking of going 1000, or 2000, and taking the polish off?.
    You have the right idea here Mike. Dulling the surface down some will even out the reaction.
    You can go to a lower grit without polish see how it doe's, if that's too much you can also go to a lower with polish on top of that to help get you through the heads if needed.


    Remember:
    A sanded ball hooks less, but hooks earlier than a smooth ball. (It evens out the reaction)
    A smooth ball hooks more, but hooks later than a sanded ball.

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    Take a look at Control-It polish from Brunswick. It adds length and reduces backend reaction. However, you have other bowling balls that have less hook. I'd keep the Lucid as is for when you need more hook!
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    Polish balls-More length,more snap in backend
    No polish- Rolls early,less hook in backend

    I would take the polish off the ball and that should give you a smoother arc to the pocket.

    Zothen

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    Default weight HOLE drilled? Could this help Tame the HOOK

    Quote Originally Posted by Hampe View Post
    I'm not a pro shop guy or anything, but the way I understand it, getting a sharp or gradual hook has more to do with the drilling than with just changing the surface of the ball. Did you discuss what ball motion you wanted with your driller when you gave it to him?
    That makes a lot of sense! OOOOPS!!!! LOL O, well I Adapt! I don’t have a weight hole, I wonder if I had one drilled in the right location could this help tame the hook!?

  5. #15

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    According to the USBC ball motion study, the surface of the ball accounts for almost 70% of the total ball motion. That means what the coverstock is made of and the condition that it is in will have the most effect.

    If you want a smooth reaction you will need to sand the surface. I would say smoothen it out by sanding with a 500 grit abralon, then 1000 and then 2000. That should create a nice dull surface that calms down the reaction at the back end.
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    Default Thanks, and any advice on Shoes?? I have been bowling in tennis shoes.

    Some fantastic advice!! Thanks to all of you, I am a work in progress! I have learned lots of GREAT information on this website. All I know is I love the sport, and like the Marines, “Be All You Can Be”, I want to beat JASON,,, THE DUDE, as much as possible!! LOL…!! On a good day, on house oil, I would put him up against anyone in this area! Some times on a bad day, I just let him beat me,,,, ((( but please don’t tell him!?!? THANKS))!! I also enjoy going to Bowlingboard.com for all the GREAT ARTICLES and equipment ect.. I have ordered some things from them. Fair price and great products!
    I was thinking of getting a good pair of Dexter Shoes, so that I can learn to slide! Would order from Bowlingboard.com, but afraid that they might not fit, and might turn into a back and forth thing. I wear a 12 in most shoes, but some brands of shoes I wear a 12 ½, or 13. In the Kansas City MO area, there is no shoe shop that I have found that has the top of the line Dexters. Does anyone know if the Dexters interchangeable sole shoes fit smaller or slightly larger than most shoes. Is there a place in Kansas city where I can try them on? Any advice on shoes!
    I think in order to give JASON, owner of the NEW nightmare, competition, I am going to have to learn the art of slide!

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Mayor View Post
    Take a look at Control-It polish from Brunswick. It adds length and reduces backend reaction. However, you have other bowling balls that have less hook. I'd keep the Lucid as is for when you need more hook!
    Good point!! But I bowl the same two AMF'S and the oil is always standard house patters..

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    Default Just some thoughts

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mayor View Post
    Take a look at Control-It polish from Brunswick. It adds length and reduces backend reaction. However, you have other bowling balls that have less hook. I'd keep the Lucid as is for when you need more hook!

    So many things affect the properties of HOW A BALL reacts!
    1. How its drilled
    2. Type of ball
    3. Surface of ball
    4. Condition you keep your ball in, cleaning ect.
    5. Style of bowling, stoker, ect ect.
    6. Oil on lanes, humidity, temperature , ect.

    Many times bowlers blame the ball, when its as simple as forgetting to have lift, follow through, and hitting YOU MARK! I have a great appreciation for bowling, the more I learn! Did I forget anything.

    I hear people say all the time, I want a ball that takes a 90 degree turn into the pocket, but I am finding out that MORE hook, MORE angle is not the key! Control and just the right amount of angle into the pocket is the KEY TO HIGH SCORES. I have heard Crankers, say ( like cough *Jason* cough), I want the most radical hook strong end drilling and ball that’s out there! Whereas in my humble opinion, that is just what Jason doesn’t need! He has been clocked at 2500 rpms on his ball! He can hook a plastic ball big!

    O well what does one of his good friends know! ( You can’t tell a young kid anything)! I think if drilled properly, a Frantic would be a great ball for young Jason! Lol

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MICHAEL View Post
    that is just what Jason doesn’t need! He has been clocked at 2500 rpms on his ball!
    2500rpm + nightmare = spinning in circles going down the lane
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by UBowling View Post
    According to the USBC ball motion study, the surface of the ball accounts for almost 70% of the total ball motion. That means what the coverstock is made of and the condition that it is in will have the most effect.
    Wasn't that study done with balls that are drilled with the same layout though? Like I said before I'm no expert, but it seems to me how a ball is drilled has more effect on motion than it's coverstock.

    Depending on how they're drilled, a light-medium oil ball can out-hook a ball made for heavy oil.

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