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Thread: Back to factory settings

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    Bowler jbeck's Avatar
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    Default Back to factory settings

    This maybe a silly question, but if you buy a ball and bowl with it for a while...can a pro shop actually get it back to its out of the box factory settings or do they even know to use the right tools with so many manufactures and balls?
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    All they can do is to re-surface it like factory. As an example, the Storm !Q Tour Pearl can be resurfaced using these specs:
    1- Abralon 500
    2- Abralon 1000
    3- Abralon 2000
    4- Abralon 4000
    5- Storm Step Two.

    To do after 30-50 games.
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    Resurfacing gets it close to factory OOB finish, but it's not exact.
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    Rejuvenate and resurfaced will get it so close you won't even notice a difference.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbeck View Post
    This maybe a silly question, but if you buy a ball and bowl with it for a while...can a pro shop actually get it back to its out of the box factory settings or do they even know to use the right tools with so many manufactures and balls?
    They can get it close, but not exactly the same. You just can't replicate what the factory machines do, the Haus machine or storm surface factory machines might be the closest but still not the same.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

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    Bowler jbeck's Avatar
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    I guess it's why I wonder why I see people including myself get high games with a ball fresh after it's drilled, then wonder why it isn't always consistent afterwards.
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    There is one thing you can do, but most never will do it (I've only done it a couple of times). Is before you ever throw a new ball is redo the surface yourself (or have the Pro shop do it). To whatever the factory surface is supposed to be for that ball.

    That way you can see the reaction with a surface you know you can go back and match.

    Say a new storm ball comes with a 4000-grit Factory Finish surface, before you ever throw it follow the storm steps for matching that 4000-grit Factory Finish. Then go try the ball.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbeck View Post
    I guess it's why I wonder why I see people including myself get high games with a ball fresh after it's drilled, then wonder why it isn't always consistent afterwards.
    Thats partially a brain thing. When we get a new ball, we tend to let the ball tell us where to play. For a while the ball keeps telling us the same thing, and pretty soon we quit listening to the ball. As it's needs change, we still think we know what it needs but we quit listening.

    As for the OOB finish, my theory is who cares. Before you use the ball, change the surface to something close to the OOB, that you know how to repeat.
    That way not being able to get the ball back to OOB isn't significant since you never knew how the ball reacted with the OOB surface.

    As you use the ball, wear and tear will cause the ball surface to become smoother. This should cause a later but stronger ball reaction compared to when the ball was freshly surfaced. Retouching up the surface should be a normal part of maintenance.

    If your memory is anywhere near as bad as mine, it would probably be a good idea to document when, and how you surfaced the ball, and what usage the ball had between touchups.

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