Unfortunately all my bowling buddies get to use their pro shop spinner for nothing. However, I bought the spinner because one of my balls totally needs a restore. I forget do I give the ball a bath before I restore?Originally Posted by Tampabaybob
You'll definitely get your money's worth out of it. Tell your bowling buddies that you'll restore their balls for them (at a discount :roll eyes: and you'll pay for the spinner in no time. Companies say that balls should be redone every 50 -60 games. How many guys do you know that actually do that? I don't know very many & I don't myself because of the cost.
Learn the proper techniques and you can have a good little side business going. Good Luck.
Bob
"There truly is such a thing as a bad night and when these doomed evenings arrive you can't avoid them. But there's a bright side to this, it's that bad nights won't kill you, and sometimes will make you a little smarter."
Unfortunately all my bowling buddies get to use their pro shop spinner for nothing. However, I bought the spinner because one of my balls totally needs a restore. I forget do I give the ball a bath before I restore?
Just making some notes for a recap on resurfacing.
Here are the 6 sides to a ball.
http://home.earthlink.net/~litefroze...ball_Sides.pdf
When resurfacing start on low speed and spend about 30 seconds per side applying even pressure. You do 180 grit for sides 1 & 2, 360 for sides 3&4, 500 for 5&6, 1000 grit for sides 1&2, 2000 for 3&4, 4000 for 5&6. At this point the ball is ready to recieve the finishing touches like applying a lower number abarlon pad and/or polish. For polish, set the ball spinner to high speed and you just do the 6 sides with the desired polish (facory finish, or rough buff).
resurface video 1 of 2 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSfhW...layer_embedded
resurface video 2 of 2 : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlh_t...layer_embedded
Notes:
The lower the number on the abarlon pad the more rough the surface will be and grip the lane easier. Lower number pads are good for oily lanes or players that speed dominates their revs, or players that just can't get any hook. Higher abarlon pads are good for players that revs dominate their speed, or dry lanes. Facory finish gives the ball more length before reacting to friction (dry lane), and rough buff gives the ball less length before reacting to friction (oily lanes).
Questions:
1. Does higher grit reduce the hooking power, or does it just delay it? Same for factory finish?
2. When do you drain the oil from the ball, before or after resurfacing?
3. How many and what sides do you use when applying the desired grit after resurface?
4. Why use rough buff instead of using a lower number abarlon pad, or using factory finish instead of a higher abarlon pad?
Last edited by GoodGorilla; 06-01-2013 at 11:12 AM.
It delays hook and can increase it .
(The old adage is that a sanded ball hooks less but earlier and a smooth ball hooks later but stronger.)
This is because a sanded ball has less surface contact (smaller footprint) than a smooth ball .
A comparison would be regular car tires and racing slicks. A reg. tire has a tread to get a grip on a wet surface. Where as a racing slick is smooth so it gets the maximum grip on a dry surface
As for polishes etc. it would depend on the type used, some contain slip agents which could reduce hook. Other would just smooth the ball more.
You would do it first after you had sanded with coarsest grit. this would be when the pores are the most open.2. When do you drain the oil from the ball, before or after resurfacing?
After resurfacing (Resufacing: Is returning a ball back to a like new condition, removing all nicks, scratches etc.) There's no one answer, It would all depend on what surface you wanted.3. How many and what sides do you use when applying the desired grit after resurface?
If you were returning it to the O.O.B (Out of Box) condition, you would follow what the MFG. recommends. Most surfaces do 4 sides at each grit level.
Because they do something different than a sanding pad. Rough Buff is what use to be called a fill in glaze. While it has a grit component to it, it will basically leave whatever the under laying grit is there. Giving you a "sheen/Matte" surface.4. Why use rough buff instead of using a lower number abarlon pad, or using factory finish instead of a higher abarlon pad?
factory finish would be similar but at a finer level. Both would be removing the surface peaks from the sanding ridges do to the grit in the product.
Where as a sanding pad would change that under laying grit to the grit of the pad being used.
The point of using the products in combination is so you have the widest variety of surfaces, so you can match up to the conditions.
Last edited by bowl1820; 06-01-2013 at 01:10 PM.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
I still have some more questions, but I think I will have my hands full for awhile from all the answers. For everyone else, feel free to ask away. Thanks for your help guys.
I talked to a kid who works at a bowling ally and has his ball restored for free by the proshop there. He said the proshop doesn't even use the 6 sides. He also said the proshop guy will not sand up to 4000 unless 4000 was the desired end grit.
Obviously I'm misunderstanding something. Why would you sand up to 4000 unless that was the desired end grit? I mean, you wouldn't go to 4000 if the desired end grit was 2000. I'm exhausted so it's probably just mean misinterpreting.
Anyway, there are lots of people in lots of professions that try to take short cuts. Just because that shop operator does and seems to get away with just 4 sides, that doesn't mean you have to short change yourself. I've found that for normal surface changes I can get away with 4 sides. For a true resurface, nothing beats going with 6.
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I think it may just be my misunderstanding that the guy in the video went up to 4000 grit so I assumed that whenever you resurface you go up to 4000, then go down to the desired grit after that. From what you are saying if you wanted to end with 2000, would your technique -be like this?
When resurfacing start on low speed and spend about 30 seconds per side applying even pressure. You do 180 grit for sides 1 & 2, 360 for sides 3&4, 500 for 5&6, 1000 grit for sides 1&2, 2000 for 3&4, then cleaning solution and polish at high speed?
That's more like it, yes. Now if it's just a surface adjustment you can start at 500, then 1000 and 2000 followed by cleaning solution and polish if desired.
USBC SILVER CERTIFIED COACH
Gold Coach Candidate
Owner/Operator of Bowlerz Score Coaching
Tweener Rev Rate of 420, Speed 19 mph
Key Bowling Staff Member
Key Bowling Coaching Staff
IBPSIA member
Former Staff Bowler at www.BowlerX.com
What if you wanted to resurface and end with 2000?
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