When #s matter ;)

[GoodGravy]

It does amaze me to watch a grown adult grab 8 lb. ball (house 8lbers are all pink so they stick out ) and think they have to throw it down the lane as fast as they can. I am constantly telling the new folks I bowl with to slow it down. One of the tests our local pro showed me was to have somebody hold the ball in the palm of there hand and have their arm bent at a 90degree angle. If you can hold that position for 10 seconds without showing muscle fatigue (arm/hand start shaking or lower the ball), then it is the right weight.

My 8 year old is really close to going to a 10lber....so unless there is a significant physical issue, or the bowler is elderly, I say stack on the weight!!!

[DLP]

From a "newbie" girls perspective - if I don't think I can handle a heavier ball than I'm not going to do it.

I just had the pro check to see if I should move up and it is still on the fence for going up to a ball that is one pound heavier. I learned the lesson the hard way of starting with a ball that was two pounds heavier than my current weight and had to buy stock in an over the counter pain reliever company. It was a mistake I only repeated twice!

[classygranny]

The weight is also relative to how well the ball fits the bowler as well.

When I was deciding whether to stay at 14# or go back to 15#, my coach had me hold the ball down beside me and relax my arm and wrist, then slightly cup the wrist and hold there...you should be able to hold at least 10 seconds without difficulty. We also considered going with a heavier 14# (like 14 1/2) - so don't forget that if you have a good pro shop, there is the option to be in between the full pound weights.

I stayed with the 14#, but as we age, we tend to lose some strength, stamina, and I don't work out like I use to...so sometimes lifestyle plays a part as well. When I bowl more than 3 or more times a week, I probably wish I had the heavier 15#, but if I only bowl once or twice I am glad I stayed with the 14#.

Personally, I encourage anyone of any stature, good health, and a desire to bowl well to at least start with no less that 14#. Also, wrist and arm exercises will help get used to the weight as well - if someone wants to apply themselves.

[MICHAEL]

I am thinking about going to a 16lber! all of my balls are 15's, and I chose this weight because when I started bowing I was going through some painful issures with Ra and Lupus. But I have cured myself, and can honestly say that each of my last 3 years have been better, and better culminating with my 300 a few months back! I work out and do wrist curls with 50lb dumb bells. I think it would be interesting to see how the reaction of a new bowling ball would be with the heaviest ball. Question: Do they have degree's of 16 pound balls,,,??? For instance 16.1,,,16.9?? Would be interesting to see the (carry aspect with my style of bowling), I know the pro's say, little difference in their opinion! If so whey make a 16??? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[J Anderson]

I am thinking about going to a 16lber! all of my balls are 15's, and I chose this weight because when I started bowing I was going through some painful issures with Ra and Lupus. But I have cured myself, and can honestly say that each of my last 3 years have been better, and better culminating with my 300 a few months back! I work out and do wrist curls with 50lb dumb bells. I think it would be interesting to see how the reaction of a new bowling ball would be with the heaviest ball. Question: Do they have degree's of 16 pound balls,,,??? For instance 16.1,,,16.9?? Would be interesting to see the (carry aspect with my style of bowling), I know the pro's say, little difference in their opinion! If so whey make a 16??? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I think that new-in-box 16s are a few ounces heavier than 16# so that after the finger holes are drilled the balls weigh in at a legal 16# even.

The reason so many pros have gone to lighter balls is that with their higher rev rates, throwing a 16# ball with a modern core and coverstock would result in many shots where the ball doesn't deflect enough. Its sort of like my friend's 1980 something Ford Ranger with a 351c.i.d. V8 squeezed under the hood. Looks like a sleeper except for the wheels and tires, sounds really cool, but there's just no way to get all that torque and horsepower to the street without driving like the proverbial little old lady, or leaving a trail of rubber everywhere you drive.

[MICHAEL]

I have on occasion brought my bowling arm across my body and thought it might help prevent this? The ball feels so light, and yet I would like to experiment with going even lighter, say a 14lber, and also go up to 16lb!
I will do this in the near future and post the result, as to my observations, drilling two of the same brand same model, with same drilling lay out!

Any bowling suppliers want to supply me ONE OF EACH FOR THIS experiment? LOL

[classygranny]

I think that new-in-box 16s are a few ounces heavier than 16# so that after the finger holes are drilled the balls weigh in at a legal 16# even.

The reason so many pros have gone to lighter balls is that with their higher rev rates, throwing a 16# ball with a modern core and coverstock would result in many shots where the ball doesn't deflect enough. Its sort of like my friend's 1980 something Ford Ranger with a 351c.i.d. V8 squeezed under the hood. Looks like a sleeper except for the wheels and tires, sounds really cool, but there's just no way to get all that torque and horsepower to the street without driving like the proverbial little old lady, or leaving a trail of rubber everywhere you drive.

John's right. Pros seem to indicate that if you tend to leave a lot of 9 pins (8 pin for leftys) then going up a pound (if you have good revs) could potentially leave more; and going lighter could carry more.

[billf]

The ball return belts are only designed to handle 6-16 pounds, hence the weight they are made in. In the older days the weight was needed to create more carry. The rule of thumb was 10 pins average per game. Technology has allowed that to drop some.
In the '80s 16 pounds were the most balls sold. In the last decade that has shifted to 15 pounds with 16 being the least sold.

[MICHAEL]

ok granny,,, and John! I think you for your advise! I like to do things hands on, so in the near future, I will go both directions with the SAME BALL STYLE AND BRAND! iT WILL BE FUN TO TRY .... nO SPONSER'S YET? All I need is a 14/16, and I will do the rest including drilling. Storm???? are you out there, Who wants to help me do this experiment! I think I can get help doing a vedio of the difference, and then post it! Bill,,, You have connections!! send two this way, and lets see how it effects my style of bowling! I know you haven't seen me lately, but Jason witnessed my new style last night... He thought I was going to throw another 300.... close started out 7 strikes two solid in pockets hits, with 10 pin, then 7 pin... but did wind up with a 247..... The key here is TWO of the same ball, drilled the same way, for Iceman! Could my bowling be taken to another level with a LIGHTER ball,,,, or Heavier one!! That is the Question, wither it is nobler to sling the lighter ball of ruin, bane, and destruction.... or Unleashing the heavy, hefty, massive ponderous, weighty ball of total ruination and havoc!!

[Tampabaybob]

The weight is also relative to how well the ball fits the bowler as well.

When I was deciding whether to stay at 14# or go back to 15#, my coach had me hold the ball down beside me and relax my arm and wrist, then slightly cup the wrist and hold there...you should be able to hold at least 10 seconds without difficulty. We also considered going with a heavier 14# (like 14 1/2) - so don't forget that if you have a good pro shop, there is the option to be in between the full pound weights.

I stayed with the 14#, but as we age, we tend to lose some strength, stamina, and I don't work out like I use to...so sometimes lifestyle plays a part as well. When I bowl more than 3 or more times a week, I probably wish I had the heavier 15#, but if I only bowl once or twice I am glad I stayed with the 14#.

Personally, I encourage anyone of any stature, good health, and a desire to bowl well to at least start with no less that 14#. Also, wrist and arm exercises will help get used to the weight as well - if someone wants to apply themselves.

I also have gone down in weight the last few years to a 14# ball (+ about 1/2 #) Always threw 16's then went down to 15's. Still have two light 15's that I use once in a while, but age has caught up with me. Won't be going any lower and the 14's will react as good as the heavier ones. Just have to be careful not to throw it too hard.

The PRO's have found the heavier balls drive too much and 9 pin leaves are a problem. It's just that the heavier ones won't deflect enough and go right past the 9 pin.

I have on occasion brought my bowling arm across my body and thought it might help prevent this? The ball feels so light, and yet I would like to experiment with going even lighter, say a 14lber, and also go up to 16lb!
I will do this in the near future and post the result, as to my observations, drilling two of the same brand same model, with same drilling lay out!

Any bowling suppliers want to supply me ONE OF EACH FOR THIS experiment? LOL

Michael, if you're finding that you're pulling the ball a lot, make sure you're not lifting your eyes off of the target a split second before you release the ball. Remember, your hand will ALWAYS follow your eyes and when you look up from your target you'll usually be looking left (if you're right handed). That's THE MAIN CAUSE of people pulling the ball across the front of their body !