Medium to medium/dry lanes WHICH TYPE OF BALL WORKS BEST!

[MICHAEL]

On medium to medium/dry, which works best and loses less energy:

A pearl ball, highly polished

A matte ball with a 4000 surface

For example would my Beatdown, matte surface, 4000 grit, get past the heads better then say, My IQ pearl, with 1500, and High Polish?

I am gradually setting up my weapons for the year, and going into the 3rd game with 10 bowlers, bowling the two lanes, when things start going left of
head pin, what ball, and surface preparation do YOU USE?

my question is after I have made all my moves, and now I need to pick a ball that will allow me to go back several boards to my right, (being right handed).

[Stormed1]

there are too many factors that come into play to even make a general statement. Ball speed (leGitimate- not what's listed in profile), rev rate, lane surface all play a part in choices made. You wwould most likely not throw the same ball and line as you would on pro-anvilane. As a general statement a pearl ball with get through the heads better and retain more energy than a matte finished ball. Weaker layouts will also control how the ball comes off the end of the pattern. My current dry lanes balls are a Ascent solid 4x60x70 @4k+ polish and a QZ2 Blue 6x70x70 @4k+ polish.

[Hampe]

Previously I would have said start with the matte early and when the lane breaks down, use the pearl to get some extra length. But like Stormed says....it's a bit too general. It depends on how you play and how the balls are drilled. For example, I've found that with the two balls I bought off my buddy (nomad pearl and rogue cell), I have a lot more success starting with the pearl which allows me more room for error early on, and when the lane breaks down past the first few adjustments, I'll switch to the matte ball and open the lane up (moving the line 3-4 boards and my feet about 10-12 boards left)....basically the opposite of what I used to do with my old matte/pearl balls.

[Perrin]

Too many variables.

I start the night with my misfit with 4000 surface and then once I get to the point where I need to move back right I switch to my Slingshot high polish

but they are drilled differently also so....

[Mudpuppy]

I only use 1 ball for all lane conditions - pearl highly polished. I just adjust how I throw it, speed and angle. I found it is better to 150% know how 1 ball works then to be digging through the bag looking for just the right ball and only knowing 25% how each works. I pick pearl polished because they last a lot longer than a dull ball that soaks up massive oil (and dirt) and egg shapes way earlier than a polished ball.

[MICHAEL]

All of you make sense!! Their are many, MANY variables, this is true! And ,,, it's clear that the answer is truly not black and white! It is something I will have to figure out on my own, but it is interesting to hear your thoughts, and methods! Thanks,,,,

[dnhoffman]

Iq tour solid to my hammer razyr... But both have different drillings, cores, and finishes. Razyr has a solid coverstock so it just goes much longer before snapping, I could even polish it up a bit really.

[GoodGravy]

I really struggle with a lighter oil pattern at both centers I bowl at here. I have the same problem and am constantly trying to figure out how to not keep going high flush or even Brooklyn on most of my shots. My cleanest shots recently have been waayyyyy inside throwing over 18-20. The thing for me is that I don't like playing that far inside since I have almost no margin for error.

I usually start with a hybrid around 1500, then jump to a pearl as soon as the pattern breaks down... sometimes this happens before the end of game 1. I then begin the slow crawl left and hope there is enough room inside to get me through the night. I have buddy here that is encouraging me to switch up my balls by going pearl first and then heaver to get through the carry down.

I don't have any great insight, heck, by the middle of the 3rd game, it is so crispy on the back end, I have to be careful with my plastic spare ball...

[MICHAEL]

here is where its not clear to Iceman!

For a broken down medium/to simi dry lane

would you go to a......

1. Matte finish like the DV8 marrader, with a 4000 finish??? (with the 4000 finish would it not get through the heads very well)

or
2. Pearl Finish, like the IQ pearl with its polished 1500 surface??? (with the polish and less porous surface less energy loss and through the heads)

The gray area for me, is the example above!

Last night on one of the huge Saturday night leagues here in Kansas City, I was having problems finding the right ball, and target to shoot. I had a poor first game, then an average second game, 187, (don't want to talk about the first one lol) but finished up with a 241. That was the highest score on the team that game.

I put the Tri-grips, away and went to the standard finger tip, pin above and to the right of the pinky finger, and used the ball I had the 300 with a while back, the IQ pearl. This is a 5 person team, so ten bowlers eating, and pushing the oil down the lane.

I changed my target to an unlikely place out side and to the right of the second arrow!! It worked like a charm!! Started out with 5 strikes in a role, and end up with 3 in the ten frame... (I was standing with my right foot on board 10) 241

This goes against all I have read about moving left, and moving your target with a two to ONE ratio!

summery: It seems to me there is NO CLEAR change to be made in balls, because the surface of the ball can actually cross over depending on the surface
example mentioned at the beginning of this subject matter.

Maybe drilling is a key, and more important then say a 4000 grit dv8, and a 1500 IQ pearl? They seem to react the same in my hand, and BOTH ARE DRILLED with the same pin position.