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Thread: Low grit, but high polish?

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    Some extra info I ran across:

    "Rough Buff is a liquid buffing compound manufactured for Brunswick by Formax Manufacturing Corporation: A supplier of industrial buffing compounds and equipment to a wide range of industries.

    Rough Buff has been around for years, It is used to arrive at a matte or sheen finish (as compared to less aggressive compounds and polishes). The underlying finish can be anything from 220-grit to P360, 320, P500, 400, P800, P1000, 600, and 800/P1500 grits.

    Once the desired underlying grit is obtained using Abranet/Abralon/Siaair pads or other abrasive pads/papers, the Rough Buff is applied using a pad or towel, by hand or using a spinner.

    The coarser the underlying grit, the earlier the ball will read the conditioning pattern. P500 followed by Rough Buff and P1000 followed by Rough Buff are commonly used by Brunswick with similar buffing compounds used by other manufacturers.

    Other similar buffing compounds include Powerhouse Matte Finish, Storm Pro Finish Step 2, Track Clean and Sheen, and others. Even more aggressive buffing/rubbing compounds for bowling balls include Powerhouse Sandblaster, Ultimate's Quick Kut, Storm Pro Finish Step 1, and others.

    It's important to use liquid abrasives formulated for bowling balls. The bowling manufacturers worked with the industrial abrasives manufacturers to minimize the petroleum, silicon and wax in these products as they are, in many cases, detrimental to the desired reaction.

    Using rubbing and polishing compounds formulated for automobile finishes most often has undesirable effects on ball reaction. Remember that silicon and petroleum products are often added to extended length polishes as slip agents for extra length on drier conditions."

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Quote Originally Posted by e-tank View Post
    And you wonder why you need to de oil it often lol

    But,,,,, if you do the 500, then put polish on the ball with your spinner, medium pressure, and do the 4 side technique!
    you will be amazed at the movement, and it absorbs much less oil!

    I like doing the 500 pad, then Rough-Buff that Brunswick makes! That's what I use on my matte beatdown! It gives mea a GREAT angle into the pocket, and lots of strikes, with great carry!

    If you do just the 360, or 500 without the ruff buff, or polish, not only does the ball burn up quick on its way down, but it does absorb much more oil,,,,(((if you have oil lol)!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Some extra info I ran across:

    "Rough Buff is a liquid buffing compound manufactured for Brunswick by Formax Manufacturing Corporation: A supplier of industrial buffing compounds and equipment to a wide range of industries.

    Once the desired underlying grit is obtained using Abranet/Abralon/Siaair pads or other abrasive pads/papers, the Rough Buff is applied using a pad or towel, by hand or using a spinner.

    It's important to use liquid abrasives formulated for bowling balls. The bowling manufacturers worked with the industrial abrasives manufacturers to minimize the petroleum, silicon and wax in these products as they are, in many cases, detrimental to the desired reaction.
    QUESTION: How Often should this be done? Does it last long, or should it be done after each cleaning?

    Not talking about the abralon pad, but the rough buff! Is it good for a number of games, even after cleaning? Or should the rough buff be applied each time after you clean your ball with in my case, (simple green & alcohol)
    Last edited by bowl1820; 01-02-2014 at 09:16 AM. Reason: fixed bb code
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    Quote Originally Posted by MICHAEL View Post
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]

    QUESTION: How Often should this be done? Does it last long, or should it be done after each cleaning?

    Not talking about the abralon pad, but the rough buff! Is it good for a number of games, even after cleaning? Or should the rough buff be applied each time after you clean your ball with in my case, (simple green & alcohol)
    Rough Buff isn't like a coating of wax that wears off.

    You would use the rough buff whenever you redo the underlying grit with the pad. Not everytime you clean the ball.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Default Rough Buff, is it Really NEEDED?

    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Rough Buff isn't like a coating of wax that wears off.

    You would use the rough buff whenever you redo the underlying grit with the pad. Not everytime you clean the ball.
    Thanks for the info! I wounder, that being said, what is the real difference between a rough buff, and pads?

    For instance DV8 has it used with pads, and polish/high polish in many of their ball prep's!! Is it (that important), and does its use REALLY MAKE a HUGE difference, or is it just another product to sell!?
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    Put 500/snake oil on the Primal Rage today, liked the reaction much better, bowled 7 games for 1520 today with it.

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    Default Royal compound, to add to my laboratory!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Rough Buff isn't like a coating of wax that wears off.

    You would use the rough buff whenever you redo the underlying grit with the pad. Not everytime you clean the ball.
    Just arrived yesterday, from bowlingball.com my 32 oz bottle of Royal compound. I ordered it specifically for the Ruckus!
    Upon looking at it, I swear it looks to the naked Superhero eye, like rough buff! Looks like car rubbing compound!

    It says its 2500 grit polish on the bottle,,, I need to go back and see what Rough buff is, and the difference

    I will say this, after using the spinner, to apply it using 4 sides, it looks very polished, and smooth.

    I wounder how different my IQ pearl would react using Royal compound with the 2500 grit polish, instead of Reacta shine by storm.

    Might be worth a try....
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    Royal compound feels just a little finer than rough buff and looks not quite as thick.

    Rough buff is a rubbing compound.

    Virtually all the ball polishes, compounds can be traced back to auto polishes and compounds thats where they came from. They were just repurposed as ball polishes.

    If you want to see a shine, put the royal shine on top of the royal compound. i did that on my beatdown.
    Last edited by bowl1820; 02-21-2014 at 04:55 AM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

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    Quote Originally Posted by bowl1820 View Post
    Royal compound feels just a little finer than rough buff and looks not quite as thick.

    Rough buff is a rubbing compound.

    Virtually all the ball polishes, compounds can be traced back to auto polishes and compounds thats where they came from. They were just repurposed as ball polishes.

    If you want to see a shine, put the royal on top of the royal compound. i did that on my beatdown.
    Funny, my ball had one heck of a shine with just the Royal compound! It was beautiful!!! So royal, is a polish?

    I wonder what Reacta Shine would do, on top of the Royal compound 2500 grit POLISH!
    Reacta shine, looks NOTHING LIKE the Royal compound! I don't feel, or even see any abrasive materials in the polish, but If I remember, it says its a 1500 polish?

    I swear, that new DV8 I just purchase, with the royal compound, couldn't' have more shine! It looked like a light bulb!! I was VERY impressed with the results.
    Don't walk on Thin Ice!

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