Differance in coverstocks???

[RobLV1]

Bunny: Sorry I didn't get back to you before you went to the proshop. Based on the variety of conditions on which you've tried the ball and your comment that you're not getting much movement from the ball, I doubt that just a surface change is going to give you what you're looking for. The pearl cover material is meant to skid in the oil and show a strong reaction to friction. If you're not seeing that reaction in terms of lateral movement (hook), then the layout probably needs to be changed. How is the ball drilled in relation to the other balls you use?

[Bunny]

Thanks Rob! No worries. It was short notice. Bowl1820 was on it!

Yep. The HRP is not reading the dry/friction. The HRP is pin down. Not sure about the pin to pap and all that. My others are pin up above the ring finger. So definitely thinking I'll need to change the layout for the HRP to work best for me. (Had a long discussion with the pro shop second in command before we drilled it. He's been under Barry's tutelage for several years and is very good. He's seen me bowl and I thought we figured out a good layout. Oh well, now we know!)

I'm gonna try the 500/2000 surface and see what happens. In the meantime saving my change for a plug and redrill.

[larry mc]

Solids will read the lane sooner and be smoother. Pearls will push farther down the lane and be more angular. Hybrids are the best of both worlds, longer than a solid with a more angular move but noy as long or flippy as a pearl

nailed it

[Aslan]

I was just trying to figure this out last night.

My Rhythym has a RG of 2.48 and a diff. of .045. The ball I'm looking to switch to has a 2.50 rg and a 0.052 diff and is assymetric.

So taking surfaces and drilling out of the equation, it seems that the new ball would give me "slightly" more length with a more angular back end; especially since it's assymetric. Is that a correct interpretation?

Now, still leaving drilling aside, the confusing part is the Rhythm is a solid coverstock with a Matte finish. It claims to be 2000 Abralon. The new ball is a pearl coverstock that also claims to be 2000 Abralon "polished". So, and here's where I get lost...it seems that the Rhythm being matte and solid would start hooking earlier. Yet the new ball being pearl and polished would go a little longer. I "think" thats right.

But it's confusing because it seems like I should be getting "more hook" out of the Rhythm given it's surface...but I'm not. And I'm thinking it's because of the symmetric core. I "think" the reason I struggle when I move inside...(my "C-game") is the Rhythm isn't designed to have that angular snap that you need to play that line. At least not for a stroker/tweener with low revs. Sure the ball reps, thumbless, and 2-handed guys can get ANY ball to come back...but for more traditional bowlers like myself it's really, really tough to get a symmetric core ball to "snap". And I'm starting to think thats less about "my lack of game" and more that symmetric cores aren't designed for that purpose.

Okay experts Bowl1820 and RobM...feel free to tear the above post apart and point out my complete newb bowling ignorance!

[circlecity]

Lord Field has a new coverstock

New Aeration Coverstock prevents oil penetration leaving a cleaner surface in the backends.

http://www.lfbowling.com/index.php/h.../9448-get-some

[bowl1820]

I was just trying to figure this out last night.

My Rhythym has a RG of 2.48 and a diff. of .045. The ball I'm looking to switch to has a 2.50 rg and a 0.052 diff and is assymetric.

So taking surfaces and drilling out of the equation, it seems that the new ball would give me "slightly" more length with a more angular back end; especially since it's assymetric. Is that a correct interpretation?

Pretty much, though 2.48 to 2.50 isn't that much different.

Now, still leaving drilling aside, the confusing part is the Rhythm is a solid coverstock with a Matte finish. It claims to be 2000 Abralon. The new ball is a pearl coverstock that also claims to be 2000 Abralon "polished". So, and here's where I get lost...it seems that the Rhythm being matte and solid would start hooking earlier. Yet the new ball being pearl and polished would go a little longer. I "think" thats right.

Your okay here. Solid,matte surface will read earlier. The polished pearl will go longer, read a little later.

But it's confusing because it seems like I should be getting "more hook" out of the Rhythm given it's surface...but I'm not.

Dull balls hook less than smooth balls, but hook earlier. (Smooths out the reaction)
Smooth balls hook more than dull balls, but hook later. (Has a sharper reaction)

And I'm thinking it's because of the symmetric core.

Technically all symmetrical balls are Asymmetrical after they have been drill. (It's just the degree of asymmetry is smaller than one that starts out Asymmetrical)

I "think" the reason I struggle when I move inside...(my "C-game") is the Rhythm isn't designed to have that angular snap that you need to play that line. At least not for a stroker/tweener with low revs. Sure the ball reps, thumbless, and 2-handed guys can get ANY ball to come back...but for more traditional bowlers like myself it's really, really tough to get a symmetric core ball to "snap". And I'm starting to think thats less about "my lack of game" and more that symmetric cores aren't designed for that purpose.

You can play inside with a symmetrical core, you just need to play closer to the head pin and not try and swing it outside so far.

Okay experts Bowl1820 and RobM...feel free to tear the above post apart and point out my complete newb bowling ignorance!

[Aslan]

You can play inside with a symmetrical core, you just need to play closer to the head pin and not try and swing it outside so far.

Thank you Bowl1820. You are once again a wealth of knowledge. But… ….I got nothin.

Thats exactly what I've struggled with. I watch Rob and the staffers line up way inside…throw out to the break point and "snap" it back into the pocket. When I play inside I'm standing barely left of center and throwing out towards the 13-14 board. Because if I move any left of that…it just sails right and "sorta" comes back in time to hit the 3 or 6 pin. : (

[RobLV1]

After making the video of the Zero Gravity with the pin up drilling, I decided that I liked the reaction so much that I would try the same layout on a Reign of Power that I had resurfaced to 2000 abralon + Powerhouse Factory finish. The Reign of Power has a symmetrical core, and an rg of 2.57 vs. the Zero Gravity with an rg of 2.33 and a 4000 abralon unpolished finished. What I found was a slight difference in length due to the rg difference, very little difference in terms of the strength of the reaction (probably because the intermediate differential on the Zero Gravity is pretty low), but a big difference in terms of the reaction going down the lane. When I have lots of hold in the middle of the lane, and some, but not too much, friction on the outside, I use the Zero Gravity. When there is less hold in the middle, I get more skid from the polished surface of the Reign of Power, and just as strong of a reaction to the friction on the outside. The polished surface also has less tendency to burn up at the spot than the unpolished surface.

To sum up: Polishing a surface gives it more skid in the oil, and also a more violent reaction when it sees friction. An unpolished surface finds more friction in the oil and a less violent reaction to the dry, but more easily burns up if there is too much friction.

Make sense?

[bowl1820]

the Zero Gravity with an rg of 2.33

A 2.33 RG????

Storm Zero Gravity Ball Specs:
- Radius of Gyration (RG): 2.55**
- Differential (Diff): 0.037**
- ** RG and Diff are based off of 15 lb. balls