Okay that's a new one, when you de-oil a ball it leaves voids in the filler where the oil was.Originally Posted by classygranny
I think it's unlikely that the oil is eating into the ball like a termite or dissolving parts of the filler to create voids.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
Personally, I think that de-oiling a ball every 50-75 games is pretty excessive, especially if you clean your equipment after each outing. I tend to take mine and put them out in the desert heat once a year, and have not seen a loss of reaction for several years now. As for the little voids where the oily worms were in your bowling balls, I've never heard of this before, and personally, think it's nonsense. Just my opinion.
Well, I guess to each his own belief. I have no reason to doubt Mike as he drills on the tour, is a ball rep, and has seen the manufacturer cut the ball in half to display what happens in the testing. Also, he never, ever over sales - to anyone. In fact, he tried to revive my old Brunswick Revolver - but it never reacted well afterwards, so when I rebuilt my arsenal he deducted that cost from my new balls. And we all know, they make their living on the labor.
As far as 50-75 games...depending on the ball, I will attest to needing that. I clean my balls after each session - before they go in the bag to go home. Yesterday, he revived my Defiant Soul, that had about 60 games on it, and it took about 2 hours and you should have seen how much oil came out.
Proud member of bowlingboards.com bowling forums & winner of bowling ball give-away!
High Series - 704; High Game - 290 (a long time ago) Current Average - 150
Next time you go back to the pro-shop ask what manufacturer did the testing that showed that the oil left voids in the ball and when.
If a manufacturer did testing that showed oil removal caused voids in the ball, that would have been a big thing. You'd have seen that on every bowling forum there is by now.
Now if they cut one in half and it showed the oil had seeped down into the filler, I could see that happening the balls are porous.
Last edited by bowl1820; 03-30-2014 at 12:47 PM.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
I think there is a miscommunication.
The ball rep probably said that the ball is porous, down to the core, and that after removing oil, with the ball cut in half, you can sort of see the pores/tunnels. The oil only fills the pores/tunnels, it can't "cause" them. Thats chemically impossible.
I towel between shots, wash with alcohol/simple green after each series/day, and de-oil using a food dehydrator (22-32 minutes) every 60 or so games.
I don't know; like many things in bowling, I think we worry about things that are probably only a minor influence on our performance (at lower levels). Balls, arsenals, specs, drilling, oil in the balls, etc…is just all so insignificant compared to release, timing, and accuracy. It's like the Korean kids putting racing mufflers on their Honda Civics. It's still a Honda Civic….it just makes a more annoying sound than before.
LOL! Great analogy. How are you bowling?
I don't want to derail this exciting discussion on ball retirement...but I did post an update yesterday here: http://www.bowlingboards.com/threads...ight=aslan%27s
Just as a "teaser"...midway through practice I was cursing your name...but by the end of practice I was praising your wisdom.
You should retire a ball when you throw it down the alley and your finger grips fly out and then your ball cracks in half when it hits the pins.
Or when it goes down the alley and the cover stock flies off and just your ball's core hits the pins. If you get a strike when that happens then just keep the core and throw that. You won't have finger holes so you will have to hold the core by the pin. Or after you surface your ball and de-oiled it so much that it is the size of a 16" softball instead of a 16lb bowling ball.
Last edited by Hammer; 04-01-2014 at 08:58 PM.
Arsenal: Raw Hammer Orange/Black Hybrid 14lbs, Blue Hammer urethane 14lbs, Columbia 300 Lava Ball Plastic 14lbs, Highest scratch series 710 Bowling 38 years Never hit that 300 game. Highest game 276, had 11 strikes and one spare in the middle of that game.
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