Resurfacing with NEAT

[scruffwhor]

I'm finally getting around to resurfacing some of my more heavily used balls.

I've heard a lot about Abralon and Siaair. I've watched a few videos and read a few articles, but heard nothing about using the NEAT abrasive system when it comes to resurfacing. As far as instructions go. Has anyone out there used the NEAT system when resurfacing???

Here's my list of questions:

1. What are the recommended steps in using NEAT pads when I resurface ( i.e. stepping up the grit, using one grit and done, etc..) my balls?

2. If I wanted to scuff up my ball to, 500 lets say and leave it, how would that effect the balls reaction compared to starting with a rougher grit, and going up to a finer grit during the resurfacing process (100 to 200 to 300 to 400 and finishing with 500 grit).

3.) If I have a polished ball, how would I get that ball back to its OOB finish, polish and all?

Thanks folks

[bowl1820]

I'm finally getting around to resurfacing some of my more heavily used balls.

I've heard a lot about Abralon and Siaair. I've watched a few videos and read a few articles, but heard nothing about using the NEAT abrasive system when it comes to resurfacing. As far as instructions go. Has anyone out there used the NEAT system when resurfacing???

Neat pads are expensive, Abralons/Siaair pads will work just as well.
NEAT pads are based on 3M trizacts and are supposed to last a little longer than Siaair and Siaair lasts a little longer than Abralon.

Here's my list of questions:

1. What are the recommended steps in using NEAT pads when I resurface ( i.e. stepping up the grit, using one grit and done, etc..) my balls?

There's not really any one answer, The steps would all depend on what your trying to do with the surface and also those steps apply to the other pad types as well.

2. If I wanted to scuff up my ball to, 500 lets say and leave it, how would that effect the balls reaction compared to starting with a rougher grit, and going up to a finer grit during the resurfacing process (100 to 200 to 300 to 400 and finishing with 500 grit).

The pads Abralon, Siaair etc. use the Fepa "P" scale (Which isn't the same as "US" sandpaper grits) and go P500, P600, P1000, P2000, P3000, P4000 and usually you don't go lower than 500.

The Neat pad grits are:
N / Black 750 grit
E / Blue 1500 grit
A / Green 2500 grit
T / Yellow 4000 grit

As for starting with a rougher grit, and going up to a finer grit during the resurfacing process.

The more intermediate steps you have between the starting grit and final grit the smoother the final surface will be.

Example;
A 500/1000/2000/4000 surface would be smoother than a 500/4000 surface.

3.) If I have a polished ball, how would I get that ball back to its OOB finish, polish and all?

Thanks folks

The only thing with the OOB is, you can't replicate the surface that came from the factory exactly. You only can get it close, the factory uses a different process to do the surface.

To do it at home You would use a spinner and follow the MFG. suggested steps for the OOB surface.

Example:
OOB-Storm 4000-grit Factory Finish

The steps are:
1. 500-grit Abralon – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 2000-grit Abralon – Sand lightly for 10 seconds on all four sides.
3. 4000-grit Abralon – Sand lightly for 5 seconds on all four sides.

One thing about the OOB, don't be married too it! It's not a magic surface, adjust the cover to fit your conditions.

[scruffwhor]

I'm not married, just curious how to get it back, closely, to the OOB.

Would I use a special ball polish too try and make it as shiny as the polished ball was brand new?

[bowl1820]

I'm not married, just curious how to get it back, closely, to the OOB.

Would I use a special ball polish too try and make it as shiny as the polished ball was brand new?

You would use the MFG. suggested steps for the OOB surface.

As for what pads and polishes to use it depends on what the balls OOB surface was.

Most MFG. tell you the OOB surface and list the steps for redoing that surface.

What ball are we talking about?

[scruffwhor]

The more polished or shiny ones are

900 Global- The Creature

AMF- Bull Whip Special Edition

[bowl1820]

The more polished or shiny ones are

900 Global- The Creature

AMF- Bull Whip Special Edition

There are two Creatures
Creature S40 -OOB 600grit/2000 Polish
Creature S40 Pearl - OOB Polished

AMF- Bull Whip Special Edition- OOB polished

The Creatures are older balls before the neat pads and of course AMF is one that isn't real specific on surface Using the undefined catch all "polished".

I would go with the Storm steps for a 1500-grit Polished Factory Finish both of them. See how they perform and adjust from there.

1500-grit Polished Factory Finish
1. 500-grit pad – Sand firmly for 30 seconds on all four sides.
2. 1000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
3. 2000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
4. 4000-grit pad – Sand lightly for 20 seconds on all four sides.
5. Storm® Step Two™ – Polish lightly for 15 seconds on each side.

You can substitute Brunswick Rough Buff for Step Two.


Of course it all depends on the conditions you have and how you bowl. The 1500-grit Polished Factory Finish should be a good place to start.

[scruffwhor]

I have the Creature S40, polished.

I'm afraid that sanding the coverstock down, will get rid of that shiny polished surface and eliminate the length I get with that ball.

[bowl1820]

I have the Creature S40, polished.

I'm afraid that sanding the coverstock down, will get rid of that shiny polished surface and eliminate the length I get with that ball.

Your not going to lose the shiny polished surface. Yes you'll sand the shine that's on there now off at first , but then you'll put it back on.

You said "I'm finally getting around to resurfacing some of my more heavily used balls. " and even though you said you seen some videos about resurfacing. Saying that your afraid you'll lose the shiny polished surface on your ball. Makes me wonder if you really know what resurfacing/refinishing is?

Resurfacing/Refinishing is where you sand a ball down and bring the surface back up to where you had it or want it (in your case a shiny polished surface) .

Now if you haven't had this done in along time or at all they most likely need it.

I have the feeling the best bet here is take your ball into the proshop, tell them what you want and for a couple bucks they'll refresh the surface for you.



Basic information on How to Resurface a Bowling Ball from Innovativebowling.
part 1

[bowl1820]

part 2 (where they bring the surface to a polished shiny surface)

[larry mc]

if u can find a shop with the new storm resurfacing machine , i have heard it gets balls closest to original factory surfaces , or at least thats what the girl in the shop that has 1 around here has told me , lol