Ball Specifications/Tech Talk Part II

[Aslan]

I had created a thread awhile back (or participated in one) where i talked about different balls in my future arsenal and how things like RG, differential, symmetry, and coverstocks all come together to help an INFORMED bowler make a choice as to what type of arsenal they want, what gets added to it, what gets taken away (retired), and what to think about when making a ball change.

It was inspired by Rob M's article on "knowing your arsenal" (which I highly recommend).

Unfortunately, the feedback/reaction was more negative than I thought; with people generally saying they didn't need to know all that "mumbo jumbo" and just altered balls based on "feel".

Well, I was again fascinating myself with ball specifications recently and looked at a very specific comparison (versus my last comparison between generic ball 1, ball 2, ball 3, and ball 4).

Lets compare my old Frantic with my Hammer Rhythm (which is very similar to the Hammer Arson):

Storm Frantic: symmetric, hybrid coverstock, RG: 2.53, diff. = .045.
Hammer Rhythm: symmetric, solid coverstock, RG: 2.50, diff. = .040.
What makes these interesting comparisons is;
1) Both symmetric, so we can take that wild card out of the equation.

2) Based purely on the numbers with lane conditions and drill layouts constant...

The Rhythm should hook earlier based on it's lower RG and probably more so on it's solid coverstock. It also should have less "flare" due to a lower differential. This 'should' produce a ball that has a very smooth, long arc.

The Frantic should go longer as a hybrid coverstock and having a slightly higher RG. It also should have a bit more 'flare' down the lane due to a slightly higher differential and that hybrid coverstock biting the drier area. This should produce a ball that goes long, but with a less angular hook/arc into the pocket as you might get from a more assymetric core.

So if you're looking at targeting....based on ball videos, sales data, and tech sheets, and a stroker release...the Frantic being thrown from about center should go out about board 14, towards that 6 or 10 pin, and as it finds some friction, start to arc back into the pocket. The Rhythm looks to require a starting point right of center, up the 9-board, out towards the right gutter, and it should start 'biting' about midway down the lane and take a nice long, smooth arc back into the pocket.

So;
Question #1: Does that assessment of the ball specifications generally 'jive' with what the 'experts' think? In other words, am I 'right' or confused?

And lastly, Question #2: Is THAT (above) what I have experienced throwing both of these balls a great number of times??

ANSWER (to question #2): 'Sort of'.

I would say the Rhythm plays very much like what I described above. I don't have the revs to play quite that aggressively on medium-heavy oil and would tend to throw it up the 6-board rather than the 9-board so it gets as much friction as possible as early as possible...but yes, it has a generally smooth, long arc as one would expect from a solid coverstock, symmetric core, lower RG, lower diff. ball.

The Frantic on the other hand does NOT seem to play the way it is expected to. I have two theories as to why...but generally speaking, I am not seeing the "flare". It does go longer and has a smoother arc due to the coverstock and symmetric core, respectively. But there's no way...even on wood lanes...that my Frantic can start left of center, cross the 14-board, heading towards the 6-10, and make it back to the pocket. The "best" you could hope for would be starting out closer to center and going up maybe the 11-board aiming at the 3-6.

Two "theories" as to why the Frantic doesn't have the "flare" I'd expect based purely on the numbers?:

1) On wood lanes (or drier synthetics), I think the ball "loses energy" as it experiences too much friction for it's hybrid coverstock. If it was purely a pearl coverstock, maybe it would perform a bit better. But I think it loses energy...especially in my old "high loft" release as the ball 'slams' into the lane.

2) On heavier oil, at my old speed (20-21mph)...I just don't think the ball, at my rev rate (lower) had a chance to react to the relatively little friction available.

So while I think much of the failure of the Frantic was me not throwing it right versus the ball not doing what it was supposed to...I also think the Frantic is more of a ball for medium oil and tends to be less effective in low oil or heavy oil.

I'm still getting used to a lower RG, solid coverstock type of ball (Rhythm). Most hybrids and pearls feel like 'horses'. You throw them off to the right and they 'charge' to the pocket when they hit friction. A solid coverstock seems much more of a lumbering elephant...it kinda just 'rolls' in a big smooth arc and into the pocket. I've never thrown an assymetric core ball before so thats going to be my next 'adventure' when I expand my arsenal later in 2014. Hopefully by then my game will be improved enough to handle that type of ball.

[Mudpuppy]

Cliff notes: Just throw a house ball

[RobLV1]

Aslan: I'm glad to see that you are persuing an understanding of bowling balls. Having seen you bowl, I know that you do not utilize a lot of axis rotation, so your are not going to see a whole lot of difference in flare based on the differential. Another consideration is this, and I'm sure that I'm opening up a whole can of worms here, but the idea that more flare equates to more hook because more fresh surface is exposed to the lane is absurd. Consider this: 6" of flare with the individual flare rings being 3/4" apart vs. 3" of flare with wth individual flare rings being 3/8" apart - is more fresh surface really being exposed to the lane with the larger flare area? No. As long as the individual flare rings aren't touching each other, how far apart they are is irrelevant. The only place that a larger flare area will affect friction is on the two bow ties, and the effect is miniscule. According to the research I've done on this so far, the most logical explanation of differential comes from Mo Pinel (no surprise there) who says that a larger differential increases the potential for changing ball reaction by using different drilling layouts.

The other thing that I think you are overlooking in your original post is the effect of the layout. The numbers that are associated with the bowling balls are in their undrilled state. Once you drill the ball, you have changed both the rg and differential measurements. The only way to accurately assess how the balls react in relation to the numbers is if they are both drilled the same.

[Aslan]

The other thing that I think you are overlooking in your original post is the effect of the layout. The numbers that are associated with the bowling balls are in their undrilled state. Once you drill the ball, you have changed both the rg and differential measurements. The only way to accurately assess how the balls react in relation to the numbers is if they are both drilled the same.

Right. And while the two in the example are drilled "similar", the Frantic does have the pin slightly right and further down than the Rhythm. The Rhythm has the pin slightly higher and above the finger holes rather than offset to the right. I just kept drilling layout constant because:

1) I was trying to start a discussion purely about the "numbers". I'm like a Chris Barnes geek so I LOVE numbers and how they combine and interact. But, you're absolutely right. Once you add in release, lane conditions, and drilling layouts...the whole numbers thing can get nullified. Thats why I sort of laugh at people that get all excited about getting some super high end ball and think they now have the "answer" to all their problems. Too many factors involved in bowling to think that just changing a ball is a golden goose.

2) I'm not sure how much drilling layouts factors in (in terms of weighting). I've heard timing is like 90%...I've heard that release is 70-80%. No matter what you believe...balls, lane conditions, ball speed, drilling layouts....most people would say all of those added together really only account for 10-20% of what a ball ultimately does. Not sure if you agree with that or not, but thus far in my experience, I'd say it's:

31% Ball Speed: I've seen the lowest RG ball go VERY straight when fired at 23-24mph. And I've seen a conventional grip urethane ball hook coast to coast at 7-8mph.
27% Release: You can get a house ball to hook like mad if you throw it thumbless. And I can make my mid-level performance ball go straight if I drop it or leave my hand behind it.
14% Lane Conditions: Balls move laterally on wood/low oil...not as much in the oil...and thats true for every ball, every layout, no matter how it's thrown.
11% Ball: Core, RG, Coverstock, Diff... You can make a Pro level ball behave like a plastic ball...but it's not easy.
10% Timing: I know most people would put this at the top of the list...but I haven't experienced it as a huge issue at this stage of my bowling career.
7% Drilling Layout: Obviously it will impact the ball...especially surface changes, but other than conventional vs fingertip grips...I think it'd be hard to make an assymetric core ball behave like a plastic ball just by moving the pin around the CG.

[larry mc]

Aslan: I'm glad to see that you are persuing an understanding of bowling balls. Having seen you bowl, I know that you do not utilize a lot of axis rotation, so your are not going to see a whole lot of difference in flare based on the differential. Another consideration is this, and I'm sure that I'm opening up a whole can of worms here, but the idea that more flare equates to more hook because more fresh surface is exposed to the lane is absurd. Consider this: 6" of flare with the individual flare rings being 3/4" apart vs. 3" of flare with wth individual flare rings being 3/8" apart - is more fresh surface really being exposed to the lane with the larger flare area? No. As long as the individual flare rings aren't touching each other, how far apart they are is irrelevant. The only place that a larger flare area will affect friction is on the two bow ties, and the effect is miniscule. According to the research I've done on this so far, the most logical explanation of differential comes from Mo Pinel (no surprise there) who says that a larger differential increases the potential for changing ball reaction by using different drilling layouts.

The other thing that I think you are overlooking in your original post is the effect of the layout. The numbers that are associated with the bowling balls are in their undrilled state. Once you drill the ball, you have changed both the rg and differential measurements. The only way to accurately assess how the balls react in relation to the numbers is if they are both drilled the same.

But what if u throw alot of revs like i do and see alot of closely spaced flare rings in the 6 inch space??

[RobLV1]

Again, if the individual flare rings aren't touching, there is still fresh ball coming in contact with the lane. If your rev rate is that high, then you are probably looking for less friction, in which case, balls with lower differentials will benefit you. This is the reason that the IQ Tour, Arson Low Flare, and Motiv Strike Venom, among others, were developed: to cut down on the amount of flare for high rev players.

[noeymc]

not to knock anything you said but from what ive seen the only difference between wood and synthetic lanes to me atleast is wood you have to transition faster thats just me tho oil pattern comes into play with this also ( wood had med oil close to heavy imo syn had med to low ) so its kinda hard to judge it completely but i know i move more on wood lanes

[Aslan]

not to knock anything you said but from what ive seen the only difference between wood and synthetic lanes to me atleast is wood you have to transition faster thats just me tho oil pattern comes into play with this also ( wood had med oil close to heavy imo syn had med to low ) so its kinda hard to judge it completely but i know i move more on wood lanes

Sweet Jesus! Punctuation!!

See...THIS is what is going to happen to our children now that everything is done texting on smart phones. Mini rant...just saying.

noeymc...wood lanes are a completely different animal than synthetics. I've played both extensively, and have been on leagues in both at the same time. It's not just about the dry vs oily...wood lanes are "softer". If you throw a bowling ball down your hallway...it will thud as it hits the carpeted covered wood floor. You put some tile over that wood...much different thud...maybe even a bounce. It's a more dense surface. AND...it's slicker before the oil even gets applied.

For me, a medium oil wood lane, strictly in terms of friction, will be similar to medium-low oil synthetic...but it will react much differently. Where you see more of a difference is comparing a heavier oil wood to a heavier oil synthetic....now it's night and day. In terms of approach...on wood I can throw 20-21mph...miss as many as 6 boards right...and still come back into the pocket. On synthetics (at least moderately maintained), I have to cut my approach down, reduce my backswing by > 50%, and set it down as soon as possible (no lofting)...not to mention change my angle about 1 board (target in) and 2 boards (feet out)...and even at the resulting 14ish mph...I have only a couple boards on each side of the target to play with.

I also feel, that wood lanes tend to be older...and due to their "softness" develop a slight "groove" over time. With over 70% of bowlers throwing up that 2nd arrow...it wouldn't surprise me in the least that a minute depression forms...which serves almost as a "track" for the ball to follow. It'd be interesting to have someone take a very sensitive type of leveling device to see if a wood lane around the arrows is actually flat...especially compared to a synthetic. I'd bet the wood lane is much less flat (theory).

[bowl1820]

I also feel, that wood lanes tend to be older...and due to their "softness" develop a slight "groove" over time. With over 70% of bowlers throwing up that 2nd arrow...it wouldn't surprise me in the least that a minute depression forms...which serves almost as a "track" for the ball to follow. It'd be interesting to have someone take a very sensitive type of leveling device to see if a wood lane around the arrows is actually flat...especially compared to a synthetic. I'd bet the wood lane is much less flat (theory).

Your right the groove in wood lanes is called the Track and was formed from bowlers playing usually around 2nd arrow.(When a bowlers talked about playing the track, thats what they were referring too.)

While the wood is soft, it's also the texture that causes wood to have more friction.

They have devices for checking the level and for depressions of the lane surface. It's Called a Bowling Lane Gauge. It is a precision level, mounted on two feet. It has a sensitive Dial gauge that can measure minute variations in the height of a surface.
older model shown:


That was why they had to resurface wood lanes once every 1 or 2 years. to remove the track.

Also if they installed a overlay on the wood lanes, they had to resurface or that "Track" would be in the guardian also. (Wood lanes with a overlay are about the worst to bowl on.)

Also if they installed synthetic lanes over old wood lanes and don't cut/sand them down properly, the track will appear in time in the synthetic surface.

[Aslan]

They have devices for checking the level and for depressions of the lane surface. It's Called a Bowling Lane Gauge. It is a precision level, mounted on two feet. It has a sensitive Dial gauge that can measure minute variations in the height of a surface.
older model shown:

Great. So somebody sniped my idea/invention. Jerks. See, all the good inventions are already invented!!