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Thread: Please review

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by rv driver View Post
    So, for more tilt and rotation, you want to move your wrist to the OUTSIDE of the ball? Because that's the picture I'm getting from your description.
    I don't think so - to me I read it as staying more inside. If you have the fingers on the "front" of the ball to start and you keep your arm/elbow/etc on the same line, you are only changing your wrist position to reflect that. Imagine it from each position as it goes straight into the backswing and into the release - it's a more cocked (inside) position.

  2. #12

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    Right! The wrist is more to the outside, but the arm and hand are still behind the ball: more rotation and axis tilt.

  3. #13
    Bowling Guru Amyers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rv driver View Post
    So, for more tilt and rotation, you want to move your wrist to the OUTSIDE of the ball? Because that's the picture I'm getting from your description.
    Remember though the elbow has to stay in and the hand behind the ball. Otherwise the elbow comes out and you end up pulling the ball left believe me I know

  4. #14
    High Roller rv driver's Avatar
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    Oh, ok! Ok! Gotcha. I had the wrist broken instead of cocked (because, to me, broken or straight = "behind the ball"). Cocked is more "under" the ball. But -- that's what you said that I missed: "slightly under the ball."

  5. #15
    Bowling God MICHAEL's Avatar
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    Default speaking of wrist position Rob

    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.
    Rob, speaking of wrist position, I am have incredible success so far shooting 10 pins with my wrist under the ball, and middle finger at 12 o'clock.
    When I release the ball I keep that position, ball roles straight! (its a weak ball sling shoot drilled weak just for spares) Do many pro bowlers throw there spares using this technique, palm up? It takes that last second HOOK out of the ball and it I hit middle arrow picks up the ten pin almost every time. Last Tuesday, was 4 for 4! Yesterday, had some carry problems! a few 7s, and 8 ten pin leaves. Ball looked like it crushed the pocket, even looked like a great angle into the pocket, but there it was after the smoked cleared the 10 pin!

    picked up both 7 pins,,, they are never a problem for me, but did miss ONE 10! MUCH better then in the past when I threw a plastic ball that is VERY unforgiving. The Sling Shot is weak, but has just a little grab to where if I miss target a little to the right, it will have JUST enough grab to hang on! (throwing palm up, middle finger at 12 o clock)
    Don't walk on Thin Ice!

  6. #16
    Bowler
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    Try working with your starting hand position. For an end-over-end type of role (little axis tilt and little axis rotation), your hand should be directly under the ball at set-up with your middle finger pointing just left of 12 o'clock. To increase tilt and rotation, simply move your wrist slightly so that your middle finger is now pointing at 11 0'clock. To increase both more, move your wrist again so that your middle finger in now pointing at 10 o'clock. Make sure as you do this that your elbow does not move out away from your body. Using this change in hand position, make sure that you keep your elbow pointed toward your target and stay behind the ball as the hand rotates through the ball after your thumb has exited. I think that you will see more length, more flare, and a lower track as you change the angle of your wrist.
    Thank you Rob. This makes complete sense. My hand has been directly under the ball, cupped wrist, and middle finger pointing down lane. I will do away with the cupped wrist and try more of the cocked position like you describe and see if this helps me any.

  7. #17
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    I went and worked on what you described Friday night Rob. I was seeing the proper rotation I was wanting to see just not seeing the revs I want. Very very slow revs.

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