The Byte vs the Dealdly Aim

[MICHAEL]

This is usually the Dead Aim league, but I always try one other ball, out just to see how it reacts. The Bybe worked so good on the AMF seniors league Monday, 677, that I thought I might give it another shoot at Gladstone Bowl, Brunswick lanes.

Geno2u bowls with me on that league, and witnessed the difference. The Byte has a nice move to the pocket, but the angle must have been just off! Poor carry on the pins, 7s 10s. Made some adjustments but NO GO! The ball just doesn't seem to play well so far at Gladstone.
I don't want to talk about the first game,,, so don't ask!!

Then pulled out the Deadly Aim,,, and to decent games, both over 200.... (215, and 210) We bowled one of the better teams, with the highest averages... so the oil was really moving around and causing Gene, and me to adjust!

Gene now has a Deadly Aim also, after seeing the unbelievable carry it has been giving me. We won two out of 3, but it was hard fought!
Gene is seeing that carry big time also!! We both commented on it tonight!

I will have to check out my new average, using the Deadly Aim,,, it had to drop some, but still should be above 220... I will post the scores using this unbelievable ball on the post Deadly Aim.

It's funny how ONE BALL works great on ONE house pattern, and NOT on another!

Byte on AMF

Deadly Aim, Brunswick

[Amyers]

There are a lot of variations between house patterns not to mention different lane surfaces. No two houses lanes are exactly the same and a lot of them aren't even close

[fortheloveofbowling]

Amf lanes generally will have more friction than bruswick lanes. So Your byte is probably going a bit longer on the brunswick so not coming in as strong. The deadly aim probably starts up a little earlier for you on that surface. On the amf lanes i'm guessing it wants to go high more often than on the brunswick lanes? If similar drilling on the balls you can look at the rg and that tells you alot. The byte has a 2.52 versus the deadly aim at 2.49. The higher the number the longer it wants to go before rolling. Just guessing on your ball reaction but obviously you have noticed the difference.

[Amyers]

Amf lanes generally will have more friction than bruswick lanes. So Your byte is probably going a bit longer on the brunswick so not coming in as strong. The deadly aim probably starts up a little earlier for you on that surface. On the amf lanes i'm guessing it wants to go high more often than on the brunswick lanes? If similar drilling on the balls you can look at the rg and that tells you alot. The byte has a 2.52 versus the deadly aim at 2.49. The higher the number the longer it wants to go before rolling. Just guessing on your ball reaction but obviously you have noticed the difference.

Okay this brings up a good question on surface if the ball is rolling too long not creating enough angle would you increase or decrease the amount of surface?

I'm old school with the urathane we would have added surface to make the ball hook more but from what I understand the resin balls you reduce surface to hook more add surface to hook earlier. Which should you do here? I would think add myself.

I'm not necessarily suggesting a change here ice just wondering.

[fortheloveofbowling]

Okay this brings up a good question on surface if the ball is rolling too long not creating enough angle would you increase or decrease the amount of surface?

I'm old school with the urathane we would have added surface to make the ball hook more but from what I understand the resin balls you reduce surface to hook more add surface to hook earlier. Which should you do here? I would think add myself.

I'm not necessarily suggesting a change here ice just wondering.

I'm old school too and i really don't mess with surface much just try to have different factory finishes. I personally if i had a weak reaction with the byte would move far enough right to find more friction and use the spot downlane that was weak for miss area left. You could also just stay in the same spot and open up your angle to try to get the ball further right so you still stay in the pocket with the miss left. You could go with more surface but i don't like surface when your playing in personally. But you are correct about the surfaces but you have to consider what those surfaces are doing in the fronts and what effect that has at the break point. I liked it better when i had a shiny and dull udot and a yellow dot. Things seemed much easier back then. I rambling, sorry.

[Amyers]

I'm old school too and i really don't mess with surface much just try to have different factory finishes. I personally if i had a weak reaction with the byte would move far enough right to find more friction and use the spot downlane that was weak for miss area left. You could also just stay in the same spot and open up your angle to try to get the ball further right so you still stay in the pocket with the miss left. You could go with more surface but i don't like surface when your playing in personally. But you are correct about the surfaces but you have to consider what those surfaces are doing in the fronts and what effect that has at the break point. I liked it better when i had a shiny and dull udot and a yellow dot. Things seemed much easier back then. I rambling, sorry.

That's okay my life was easier back in the day when I was picking between the regular blue hammer and the pearl blue hammer too.

[MICHAEL]

Okay this brings up a good question on surface if the ball is rolling too long not creating enough angle would you increase or decrease the amount of surface?

I'm old school with the urathane we would have added surface to make the ball hook more but from what I understand the resin balls you reduce surface to hook more add surface to hook earlier. Which should you do here? I would think add myself.

I'm not necessarily suggesting a change here ice just wondering.

THAT's a good question that I struggle with! If you polish a ball like the byte, its suppose to go long and have a big snap at the end of the shot. I do have that NICE
SNAP,,, but how to you BEST adjust the angle of that snap at the end, ONE way or the OTHER?

If I used a 500 pad, then polished it on all four sides with say reata-shine would it still go long due to the polish and have more angular movement at the end of the lane? ( ON A BALL LIKE THE BYTE), Or would it simple change the ball completely and simply make a more early gradual move toward the pocket?

Where is it that the dynamics of a ball are changed by the ratio of grit, vs polish? Doesn't the polish effect the depth of the groves also by not only smoothing out the groves, but fill them in somewhat with the polish?

This whole thing about wanting a better angle into the pocket without losing that snap.... how do you work that balance on a ball like the
BYTE for instance

[Blacksox1]

Okay this brings up a good question on surface if the ball is rolling too long not creating enough angle would you increase or decrease the amount of surface?

This may be a trap. I am going to add surface.

[fortheloveofbowling]

I've really only in the past few years started messing with altering the surface myself. Some balls are more receptive than others to that. Your best bet is to purchase surface difference and consult with a pro shop guy who knows what they are talking about in regards to surface changes. With a shiny ball though like the byte when you are leaving weak 10's and 7's you have got to move right or stay and open up your angle to get the right entry angle. Speaking about a house shot here though.

[MICHAEL]

I'm old school too and i really don't mess with surface much just try to have different factory finishes. I personally if i had a weak reaction with the byte would move far enough right to find more friction and use the spot downlane that was weak for miss area left. You could also just stay in the same spot and open up your angle to try to get the ball further right so you still stay in the pocket with the miss left. You could go with more surface but i don't like surface when your playing in personally. But you are correct about the surfaces but you have to consider what those surfaces are doing in the fronts and what effect that has at the break point. I liked it better when i had a shiny and dull udot and a yellow dot. Things seemed much easier back then. I rambling, sorry.

from what I have read those factory finishes are only good for about 30 games or so? Then like groves in a new pair of tires, they wear down. It makes sense to me, but then what do I know! I am just a super Hero? I do have a spinner of my own and it can do a remarkable job of not only cleaning my bowling balls, but resurfacing!

I just need to know how to FINE TUNE,,, SMALL LITTLE ADJUSTMENTS,,, not radical movements of the ball. Specifically with the Byte,,,, how to make minor changes of angle at the end of its journey to the pocket!

Not looking for a early movement,,, just at the end when it does that snap to the pocket.