What I'm saying is as a stroker I went from a Medium-Light oil Ball to a Medium-Heavy oil ball and due to a low rev rate I noticed very little difference on a THS. I had to take my Medium-Light oil Cyclone and polish it up just to notice a difference between it an the Fusion and I'd probably need a heavy oil ball just to get the ball to hook on actual Medium-Heavy conditions. I'm a stroker with probably similar ball speed and I require stronger equipment than the condition calls for.. since we don't know what kind of Revs he's getting on the ball (other than the fact it isn't much because he lacks a clean release due to thumb sticking) I think we shouldn't automatically assume his equipment is too strong for what he needs. I certainly don't think he should automatically go out an buy an entry level ball because we assume once his thumb issue is solved he's going to have problems keeping the ball on the right side of the head pin.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
Thanks, Al. Please permit me to explain a little further. I'm really not too familiar with the Perfect Scale, however, if the perfect scale for the Absolute Curve is 191 and the IQ Tour Fusion is 214, then whoever is coming up with these numbers is smoking some really funny cigarettes. Consider:
The Absolute Curve has an rg of 2.48 and a differential of 0.048, and the Fusion has an rg of 2.49 and a differential of 0.029. The Fusion has a hybrid cover material with an OOB finish of 1500 grit polished, and the Absolute Curve has an OOB finish that is very similar if not identical. The Absolute Curve has a cover material that is called H-150 Crossover which, I assume is also a hybrid.. The Fusion has a symmetrical core, while the core of the Absolute Curve is not defined, but it sure looks asymmetrical to me. Taking into account that the surfaces are similar if not the same, the cover materials are both hyrids, the Absolute Curve has a lower rg that translates into an earlier roll, and the Fusion has a much, much lower differential which translates into less flare and a smoother reaction, how can the Fusion possibly have a higher hook rating than the Absolute Curve? It's rediculous, unless of course, the perfect scale is based on someone's personal assessment of the reactions of the two balls that couldn't possibly be colored by personal biases.
Last edited by RobLV1; 10-01-2014 at 09:57 PM.
First what you probably should try is to adjust the pitch on the thumb hole. This caused me some issues when I first came back to bowling. You most likely have also gotten used to gripping with your thumb due to the improper fit of the house ball and the fact that it is just easy to do. Something's that have helped me with my issues with this changing pitches, oval thumb, urathane slug in the thumb hole, roby's skin patch, and concentrating on feeling my thumb nail touch the back of the hole as I'm starting off.
As far as the ball goes that's a lot of ball things are different now and if your using the wrong ball on the wrong conditions or throwing it the wrong way you will struggle. That ball is intended for heavy oil so that basically means you're only going to have the correct conditions for the first game or so of leagues at best for that ball. To maximize its use you will need to keep it inside the oil line as much as possible. Standing 35 across the arrows at 15-20 keep the breakpoint of the hook inside of ten also just realize your going to need a less aggressive ball to ball down to and for practice.
I have a Rotogrip asylum I rarley find conditions outside of league where I can throw it confortably and its a symmetric med-hvy ball. Most of all best of luck hope some of this helps.
I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
Rob, According to BTM the absolute curve is a Reactive Hybrid and the Fat Max core is a Symmetrical core.
I think where the Perfect Scale gets threw off, is that part of it is calculated using the manufacturer's hook rating's to arrive at their number and since the different manufacturer's use different scales. It throws off the perfect scale rating.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
Thanks for the clarification. One thing about both symmetrical and asymmetrical cores is how their overall shape affects the ball reaction. The Fusion's core is simplicity personafied which results in the smooth reaction. The Fat Max core may be technically symmetrical (it would be nice if they just came out and said it), but the form of its symmetry is much more complex. It's kind of like Hammer's Gas Mask core that has been so successful in all of the Black Widow and Taboo balls is asymmetrical, but the protrusions on either side make it kind of symmetrically asymmetrical if that makes any sense at all.
As for manufacturers hook ratings, all I can say is that I have a Toyota Corolla that can shut down any Corvette on the planet. Any takers?
You need to take their perfect scale with a grain of salt. I have seen their rating on some balls to be way off compared to other balls. I would definatly go with a thumb slug or insert as many times the tackiness of the cover stock will grab onto your thumb causing the hangup
Assuming this ball is going to hook as strong as everybody suggests, would you all suggest I have it polished to lessen that?
Adding polish will delay the reaction but not lessen the amount movement on the ball if anything it increases the amount of backend movement. Increasing surface would maybe lessen the amount of backend reaction but would require even more oil to keep the ball from burning up which is more what everyone who has commented on the ball reaction is more worried about especially with a lower ball speed.
You can adjust for the amount of hook but you can't out bowl a bad ball reaction.
I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
Well stated. I remember when the First Blood came out: very aggressive ball with some polish. I watched as a bowler in league left more pocket eight-ten splits than I've ever seen for three weeks until he finally figured out that the ball wouldn't work for him. Putting polish on an aggressive ball is like putting racing tires on a dump truck. What you end up with is a vehicle that is no good for hauling and no good for racing. Surface/core inconsistencies tend to work for very specific types of bowlers. An aggressive ball with polish will sometimes work for rev dominant players who lack a little bit of ball speed, while less aggressive balls with lots of surface will sometimes work for speed dominant bowlers with lower rev rates.
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