Basically yes, but it is changing the distance of your break point as well. And as you progress and find you are leaving single pins after hitting the pocket you then will want to figure out correct entry angles associated with your break points. There is a difference between flat and ringing ten pins and reasons why you leave any single pins period. The key though on any condition really is figuring out where you can play and have miss area and hit the pocket, then figure out how to adjust to get the corners out.
Ran into this again yesterday; ball was skidding through the pin deck with little or no motion and I already have a slow ball and slow to medium revs (I throw 15 MPH tops). My best guess is it was due to carry-down. Definitely frustrating! When I move further right to get "out of the oil", I was throwing Brooklyn's. My best game was a 166. I did improve over a 3 game set, (135, 145, 166) but it was a struggle the whole time. When I know I'm capable of 190+, that's disappointing.
At the risk of starting it up again, Kegel testing has shown that carrydown no longer exists, at least not to the degree that it affects modern reactive balls. I have a hunch that your ball was losing energy from too much friction that was causing it to straighten out, lose energy, and hit like a toasted marshmallow. When the ball stops hooking today, on a modern house shot, using modern bowling balls, the move is in to find more oil to retain the energy and allow the ball to hook later which retains the energy for the pins.
Duly noted. I didn't realize that carry-down was no longer an issue. But, you're right, the ball was hitting like a "toasted marshmallow." Perhaps not even toasted.Originally Posted by RobLV1
No pin action at all. I have a hunch I'm going to be seeing this situation a lot and I need to come up with a strategy. I only have one ball to work with at this point.
I've been recreationally bowling for years, but not until February of this year did I start taking it more seriously (big mistake on my part). All this information has helped tremendously. I still find myself struggling at times. For instance, 2 weeks ago in league I bowled a 594 series, and then last week I bowled a 432 series. I feel like as I learn to look for subtle things and adjust ahead of time, I'll eventually be better off. But for now, I plan on reading through these threads and asking questions whenever I don't understand.
Kegels testing is either flawed, or based on a specific condition they didn't publish, or you neglected to consider.
If everyone is using modern equipment, and that equipment is maintained, then carry down is insignificant.
If you bowl after open bowlers who use house balls, there will be significant amount of oil transferred down past the end of the pattern.
If a modern ball has become "oil logged" it will also transfer oil past the end of the pattern.
Personally, I've thrown a modern ball (well maintained) on a fresh condition, then inspected the lane past the end of the pattern.
There was an obvious streak of oil about 3 inches long, then a gap of about 2 feet, then another streak of about 3 inches. Repeating approximately 5 times that I could see.
After just one shot there was clearly carry down, on a THS condition.
This would make sense since I typically bowl after a lot of open bowlers using house balls.
If you are following open bowlers, than the oil has already moved down the lane, and it is simply the pattern on which you are starting. As to the infamous streaks of oil, Kegels testing acknowledges the streaks. The issue is that the streaks are between 3 and 5 units of oil, and modern reactive balls don't react to anything less than 8 units. So, for all intents and purposes, carrydown no longer exists. When the ball suddenly quits hooking on your line, it is burned up and losing energy, not encountering carrydown.
Question about carry down: Does a Highly polished pearl type of MODERN ball carry the oil down? I know from my own experience that the Solid balls, like my new Hyper Cell are like a sponge, and when I clean them on my spinner after bowling the rags pull a lot of lane oil out of the balls.
But my Pearl, polished balls show MUCH LESS lane oil! Is it pushing more oil down the lane, then the matte balls.... I would think so!?
I think this SAVING ENERGY THING is the hardest thing for me to understand.
Why to do many bowlers throw at the beginning of league down 10 line or even 5, on house oil? Aren't they doing their ball a disservice causing it to lose energy throwing it in the lightest oil? And why do they wind up moving left, when the oil starts to get used up?
Most move because the ball gets TOO reactive, and starts going high on head pin. If the ball is losing energy, why the need to move left for a right handed bowler.
My experience has been when I move more into the oil, my ball seems to go flat into the pocket? When I am in the used section of the lane its almost like a hockey stick move to pocket, looks like it has LOTS OF ENERGY?
This whole thing about staying in the oil is something I need to explore more!
Last edited by MICHAEL; 10-12-2014 at 03:26 PM.
Don't walk on Thin Ice!
Michael, I am learning all of this too. It can be frustrating. The weight blocks in these balls are more like an engine. As the ball rotates and goes down the lane, the ball flares and the core rights itself to the point where it turns the ball the direction intended, left or right. When you hit the dry part of the lane, this makes this happen earlier than with the ball being in oil.
The difference in coverstocks causes the ball to react earlier or later as well. If you hit drier areas earlier the ball reacts sooner, hooks too early, and runs out of energy as it hits the pins. So by keeping the ball in the oil by moving left, you allow the ball to do its thing later and retain its energy.
Posting Permissions
Bookmarks