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Thread: When to resurface your ball

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amyers View Post
    I don't know if there is a limit you are only removing thin layers off so you could completely resurface a ball many times before running out of coverstock
    You will have a lot of problems long before running out of coverstock.

    Coverstock is usually about 1/2" thick.

    The USBC rules on diameter have a difference between a ball too big, and one too small of about 1/10"

    The ball return mechanism is fairly sensitive to the ball's size, and how much oil is on the surface.

    You're more likely to have a resin ball shrink on it's own than sand 1/10" off of it.

  2. #12
    High Roller striker12's Avatar
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    i just got my rumble back from my proshop and he actually talked with roto-grip and they said to him to tell me that i should take a 2000 grit pad to my ball after every 10 games, so that is just over a week, It will help so the ball does not change as fast and normal (as in hook wise proshop's words).

    All i have to do first and wait for my new shipment of polish to come in before i can do it i used the rest of my testing out new surfaces on it last night.

    doing the 2000 on it every 10 games is not with a ball spinners but by hand with not much pressure at all, I will just use a ball spinner to put the polish back on the ball, makes it easier and faster
    Last edited by striker12; 10-29-2014 at 08:30 PM.
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  3. #13

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    Circlecity, Usually 40-50 games is about right for most balls. It is very important though to clean after every set as i'm sure you know. I have never been one to get crazy with resurfacing a lot. It always seems odd to me to hear guys talk about doing anything other than a good cleaning until something more is needed. I have had bowling balls that i hated out of the box and when it got some lane shine on it loved it. When you start messing with resurfacing at home or at the pro shop you need really consider what you are looking for. Good luck to you.

  4. #14
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    I would have your pro shop rejuvenate it (de-oil and resurface) - the de-oiling is generally much more effective.

    I would read this:
    http://www.innovativebowling.com/pro...0research.html

  5. #15
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    If your ball is not reacting like it was when it was new a good de-oiling and a resurfacing is all you might need instead of going out and buying a new ball.
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  6. #16
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    Oil clogging your pores man!

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by dnhoffman View Post
    Oil clogging your pores man!
    Exactly... and what does polish do? Clogs the pores!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    Exactly... and what does polish do? Clogs the pores!
    So sayith Mo, so sayith we all.

  9. #19

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    I went ahead and had my hyper cell re-surfaced. Not a complete resurface but it looked pretty much new. Did it help? Well I did shoot 698 instead of my 600+ lately.
    BowlingVids.com -- USBC Tennessee (2204-27181) California (222-32895)

    IndexGenie.com -- In The Bag --> Roto Grip Wrecker - Roto Grip Hyper Cell - Storm Polar Ice Hybrid

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by dnhoffman View Post
    I would have your pro shop rejuvenate it (de-oil and resurface) - the de-oiling is generally much more effective.

    I would read this:
    http://www.innovativebowling.com/pro...0research.html
    I wish my pro shop had a de-oil machine. Heck he barely has enough room in there to drill balls and sand. almost like a closet.
    BowlingVids.com -- USBC Tennessee (2204-27181) California (222-32895)

    IndexGenie.com -- In The Bag --> Roto Grip Wrecker - Roto Grip Hyper Cell - Storm Polar Ice Hybrid

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