Polish vs Sanding, vs Burnt Toast fine line

[MICHAEL]

Polish vs Sanding vs burn OUT
1. Polish saves energy, and gets the ball down for a longer skid distance
2. Higher grit lets say a 4000 will so about the same I guess

So what's the advantage IF ANY of one vs the other?

If a person sanded a hyper-cell down to a 500 and put polish on it, how would that be different then a 4000 surface that should get it through the heads with lots of energy, ( like the polish), and give it a monster late hook?


This whole thing of Polish vs sanding has me somewhat confused.
Skid, Hook, Roll!

When a ball does an early midline movement gradual arc, is that a SLOW BUNOUT,,, What makes it not turn to Burnt Toast by the time it gets to the pocket?

I know Rob doesn't like polish, but I do! All my best games, and series have been with polished balls, not solids

[goneal32]

Im no expert on surfaces, but I can tell ya from experience, my HyperCell came with a rough 2000 finish, it would begin to hook in heavy oil as soon as it left my hand. I put polish on the 2000 and OMG, this thing goes much longer an has an awesome hook, not angular, very controllable on medium oil, much different ball reaction with polish. I get to use it a lot more.

[striker12]

Just last night i got my rumble back after getting ir pluged and redrilled i had it at OOB played 5 frames with it watching it lose energy when it got near the pins. OOB on a rumble is 2000 grit.

so at the 6th frame i took the ball in the proshop and had him put a light coat of polish on it to see what it does, the ball went farther down the lane but had a lot stronger move because it has more energy.

in the 3rd game we did another 2 tests first 5 frames we put the ball down to 1000 grit and polished, it did not slide down the lane as far as when i had 2000 light coat of polish but had a smoother backend reaction compared the 2000 light coat of polish,

in the 6th frame to the 10th of the 3rd game we went 1000 grit and then put storm extra shine on the ball, the ball was hitting the dry and just b-lined it right for the pins it was hard to get a strike when the pins where not blowing backwards it was like someone dropped a grenade back there.

so since at that point im going to be going back to OOB with light coat of polish on my ball it seems to do a lot better with that and if im going to be in a tournament that has a heavy oil pattern out witch will accualy be this Saturday i will be bowling at the YBT on the Tokyo so i will get my rumble down to 1000 grit and use storm extra shine on it.

[RobLV1]

The reason that I don't like polish is that it is usually used by bowlers who insist on getting to the friction too early. The polish will help the ball to skid through the oil and over-react when it hits the friction. A surface that is finished with a high grit abralon (4000 for instance) will skid a little bit less in the oil (so you have to keep the ball in the oil longer), and will react a little more tamely when it hits the friction. This necessitates playing a little bit more inside, using the friction that is past the pattern, rather than the friction that is outside the pattern (on a typical house shot).

[MICHAEL]

Im no expert on surfaces, but I can tell ya from experience, my HyperCell came with a rough 2000 finish, it would begin to hook in heavy oil as soon as it left my hand. I put polish on the 2000 and OMG, this thing goes much longer an has an awesome hook, not angular, very controllable on medium oil, much different ball reaction with polish. I get to use it a lot more.

interesting,,, do you play the inside, or the out side with that polished/2000 Hyper-Cell?

[MICHAEL]

The reason that I don't like polish is that it is usually used by bowlers who insist on getting to the friction too early. The polish will help the ball to skid through the oil and over-react when it hits the friction. A surface that is finished with a high grit abralon (4000 for instance) will skid a little bit less in the oil (so you have to keep the ball in the oil longer), and will react a little more tamely when it hits the friction. This necessitates playing a little bit more inside, using the friction that is past the pattern, rather than the friction that is outside the pattern (on a typical house shot).

question Rob, I put a 4 side of polish on my Hyper-Cell then put it on the spinner, but only used it for holding the ball, and did a 4 side lightly roughing it up with a 2000 pad, (did not turn the spinner on, just used it as a guide to get all four sides pretty equal).

That's what I did last Thursday and it gave me that 741, at Gladstone Brunswick.

Do some put the polish on first, and then buff it up with the pad, rather then the reverse? Worked for me? Seems it might have better groves if done after the polish. It didn't take the polish off. Again light buffing with the 2000 pad.

[fortheloveofbowling]

The reason that I don't like polish is that it is usually used by bowlers who insist on getting to the friction too early. The polish will help the ball to skid through the oil and over-react when it hits the friction. A surface that is finished with a high grit abralon (4000 for instance) will skid a little bit less in the oil (so you have to keep the ball in the oil longer), and will react a little more tamely when it hits the friction. This necessitates playing a little bit more inside, using the friction that is past the pattern, rather than the friction that is outside the pattern (on a typical house shot).

Excellent point Rob. One of my favorite things to do is use surface and close down my angles and play out. As you described, a little less bump off the dry and rolls up a little sooner in the oil to provide a little room. Pearl bowling balls can provide a lot of over under if you are not sharp.

[got_a_300]

Pearl bowling balls can provide a lot of over under if you are not sharp.

That is the main reason I try to avoid throwing
pearlized bowling balls if at all possible. I have
better luck with solid coverstock balls and then
sometimes adding a light coat of polish when it
is needed to them helps.

[MICHAEL]

That is the main reason I try to avoid throwing
pearlized bowling balls if at all possible. I have
better luck with solid coverstock balls and then
sometimes adding a light coat of polish when it
is needed to them helps.

Hummm I am an enigma, I guess. My two perfect games last year were at the same alley different leagues, but both with peralized balls. IQ butterscotch storm, and Virtual Gravity nanno. Not only both pearl balls, but one symmetrical the other asymmetrical. figure,,,, same oil patters basically.

Had a series few weeks ago 741 using a solid ball? HOUSE OIL on all 3! Hyber-Cell figure?

QUESTION: If you drill a ball to BREAK EARLY, (midlane), does it start burring up energy much earlier) If so what keeps it form turning into the phrase burnt toast by the time it gets to the pocket, vs a LONG skid, late hook?

Do balls that break early lose more energy then long ones!?

[bubba809]

I too do better with polish on the ball. I think a lot has to do with your own personal release.