Polish vs Sanding, vs Burnt Toast fine line

[fortheloveofbowling]

I have different surfaces and depending on the motion i am looking for or what the lane dictates, i use what it takes to score. I shot my best series this year last week with the optimus which is shiny. I am just saying consistency wise a little surface controls the lane better most often. But, it is what you are comfortable with as long as you have experimented and see the difference in motion.

[goneal32]

interesting,,, do you play the inside, or the out side with that polished/2000 Hyper-Cell?

I can play the inside with it.

[MICHAEL]

I can play the inside with it.

same here! Right out of the box, first day I was standing way left of center and shooting between 3r and 4th arrow. It was crazy how many strikes it was giving me with that inside angle.

Now with the polish I can play the out side, shoot second arrow, without it burning up! Its this angle that gave me that 741 last Friday on league!
You might ask why bowl outside if it worked so good throwing it inside. I am much more consistent playing the second to third arrows.

Polish has it use, in my game.

[RobLV1]

Hummm I am an enigma, I guess. My two perfect games last year were at the same alley different leagues, but both with peralized balls. IQ butterscotch storm, and Virtual Gravity nanno. Not only both pearl balls, but one symmetrical the other asymmetrical. figure,,,, same oil patters basically.

Had a series few weeks ago 741 using a solid ball? HOUSE OIL on all 3! Hyber-Cell figure?

QUESTION: If you drill a ball to BREAK EARLY, (midlane), does it start burring up energy much earlier) If so what keeps it form turning into the phrase burnt toast by the time it gets to the pocket, vs a LONG skid, late hook?

Do balls that break early lose more energy then long ones!?

This is what happens. Initially the ball skids through the oil, going straight. As it begins to slow down, the rotational energy applied by the bowlers release becomes equal to the forward energy, and the ball begins to hook. Once the ball finishes hooking, it begins to roll. The beginning of the roll phase is where the ball possesses it's maximum energy for transference to the pins. If the ball begins to hook too early, it will also begin to roll too early, and will lose energy before it gets to the pins. When the ball begins to hook, it is the beginning of the finite process that ultimately results in energy loss at some point. The factors that influence when the ball will hook include (in order of importance): where you play the lane (how soon does the ball encounter friction), the bowlers style (speed, rev rate, speed/rev balance, axis tilt, and axis rotation), the surface of the ball (both material and the surface that has been applied), the low rg of the core (the low rg and surface order may change in certain bowlers), and how the core is positioned within the ball in relation to the PAP of the bowler (layout).

Please note that the layout is the last element listed. While ball drillers often will try and tell you that you can make a ball do whatever you want it to by using a particular layout, it is just not true. If you want a ball that will go long, then by a ball that will go long, and use a layout that will compliment what is was designed to do rather than one that is at odds with the design of the ball.

Do balls that break early lose more energy than long ones? Yes.

[MICHAEL]

This is what happens. Initially the ball skids through the oil, going straight. As it begins to slow down, the rotational energy applied by the bowlers release becomes equal to the forward energy, and the ball begins to hook. Once the ball finishes hooking, it begins to roll. The beginning of the roll phase is where the ball possesses it's maximum energy for transference to the pins. If the ball begins to hook too early, it will also begin to roll too early, and will lose energy before it gets to the pins. When the ball begins to hook, it is the beginning of the finite process that ultimately results in energy loss at some point. The factors that influence when the ball will hook include (in order of importance): where you play the lane (how soon does the ball encounter friction), the bowlers style (speed, rev rate, speed/rev balance, axis tilt, and axis rotation), the surface of the ball (both material and the surface that has been applied), the low rg of the core (the low rg and surface order may change in certain bowlers), and how the core is positioned within the ball in relation to the PAP of the bowler (layout).

Please note that the layout is the last element listed. While ball drillers often will try and tell you that you can make a ball do whatever you want it to by using a particular layout, it is just not true. If you want a ball that will go long, then by a ball that will go long, and use a layout that will compliment what is was designed to do rather than one that is at odds with the design of the ball.

Do balls that break early lose more energy than long ones? Yes.

THANKS for your in-depth answer! So if balls that break early lose energy progressively as it does its arc to the pocket, wouldn't it have less energy when it reaches its target, rather then a ball that goes long, and does the hokey stick movement at the end of roll?

I just resurfaced my Hyper-Cell yesterday, 360, and then lightly 2000 all four sides, then put a light coat of polish on all four sides. This is the ball that gave me the big series last Friday on the seniors league. I used it last night on the wood in Plattsburg and it was just a little aggressive for me on the fresh 40 foot pattern, so I pulled out the DEADLY AIM you gave me in Vegas.
Anyway, on those tough wood lanes it gave me my best score of the night, a low 200..... how low,,,, 202! LOL CARRY,,,CARRY ,,, CARRY,,, was why I wasen't getting a great series.... with the Hyper-Cell. I think if I would have pulled out the Deadly Aim sooner I would have had a 600 plus on the wood! GRRRR ,,, knowing when to change balls is Key!


My wood average/scores are about 10 pins lower then on the synthetic. WHAT A CHALLANGE!!! I have had some good games, and series, but nothing like on synthetic.

I look forward each week to the NEW challenge the wood presents, never knowing the length, or type of pattern they will put down!! About as close to sports pattern on wood as it gets.

The information you give Rob is GREATLY appreciated bud! THANKS again for the Deadly-Aim,,, I put a good coat of polish on it after resurfacing it, and its one of my two, GO 2 BALLS!! It has a great move to the pocket for ICE! Yep, with the polish, and 1 drop of Old Spice cologne in finger hole it not only looks GREAT, it smells as good as it looks!
(they say the smell actually helps give the ball a little more hook, and stores more energy in the ball)! It can, and does Spice up your game!!

[RobLV1]

Michael: Both the Deadly Aim and the Hyper Cell have fairly low rg's (2.49, 2.52). Since you bowl regularly on wood lanes, you might want to consider adding a ball with a higher rg (2.55+) to help to retain the energy better on the high friction surface. Right now you are just looking at surface preparation and layout to do everything. Polishing a low rg ball to get it to go longer is kind of like putting a set of racing tires on a dump truck. After all is said and done, it's still got a dump truck engine regardless of the tires that you put on it.

[bubba809]

Michael: Both the Deadly Aim and the Hyper Cell have fairly low rg's (2.49, 2.52). Since you bowl regularly on wood lanes, you might want to consider adding a ball with a higher rg (2.55+) to help to retain the energy better on the high friction surface. Right now you are just looking at surface preparation and layout to do everything. Polishing a low rg ball to get it to go longer is kind of like putting a set of racing tires on a dump truck. After all is said and done, it's still got a dump truck engine regardless of the tires that you put on it.

Rob- I seem to have the same problem(?) as Iceman. I take a lower RG ball and slap polish on it to skid further before breaking....but it works. So you're saying I'd be better off getting a higher RG ball and eliminating the polish?? And any suggestions of a good ball from your advice?

--And a fear of mine is if I get a higher RG ball (2.55+) it will not have that harder entry angle I like.

[MICHAEL]

Rob- I seem to have the same problem(?) as Iceman. I take a lower RG ball and slap polish on it to skid further before breaking....but it works. So you're saying I'd be better off getting a higher RG ball and eliminating the polish?? And any suggestions of a good ball from your advice?

--And I fear of mine is if I get a higher RG ball (2.55+) it will not have that harder entry angle I like.

Good point bubba,,,, you spend the money first, then let Ice know it it works!!! LOL

OR Rob,,, send me a used Higher RG ball you don't want anymore, and I will pay for the shipping,,,?? Let's give this experiment a shot! OR better yet, bowlingboard.com send Ice the highest RG ball made! Purely for scientific research!!

[RobLV1]

Bubba: If it works, don't fix it. There are so many variables involved in bowling styles that different things work for different people. My job as a coach, and more so as a bowling writer is to give advice based on the majoity of instances that I observe. In this way, I have the best chance of helping the most people possible - sight unseen.

Iceman: I've given away all of the balls that I no longer use. If you want to try a higher rg ball, you're either going to have to break down and buy one, or win another give-away.

[bubba809]

Bubba: If it works, don't fix it. There are so many variables involved in bowling styles that different things work for different people. My job as a coach, and more so as a bowling writer is to give advice based on the majoity of instances that I observe. In this way, I have the best chance of helping the most people possible - sight unseen.

Oh believe me, I still am always looking in ways to improve. I'm a rev dominant bowler so that would make sense why I need polish for low RG balls. Anytime I try to knock the polish off, I struggle to save that energy and the ball rolls out. Maybe a higher RG sanded finish would not do that.