Question about ball finish...
As I have stated, this new center I'm bowling at has either long or heavy oil or both, rendering my hook non-existent. I have a Hammer Absolut Curve with box finish. I have considered redoing the finish to try to get some grab since I will be doing most of my bowling at this house.
First, will it help to go with a coarser finish and second, what finish would I go with? Is this something that can be done on those coin operated ball finishers or should I have a pro-shop do the work? I don't know anything about all that "Abralon" stuff and I know nothing about those machines so I'll need some details on what setting to use.
Thanks for all the help you guys offer!
Ax
I've heard those machines are for rubber and urethane balls; not reactive resin. Not sure what the Absolut Curve is...but I'm assuming reactive resin.
If it IS urethane...the answer isn't shining it up in the ball machine...it's getting a new ball.
If the absolute hook is reactive resin, you can get it reconditioned...de-oiled...and even add some surface to it and all of those things will help you get more reaction.
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Are you sure it's heavy or long oil?Originally Posted by axslinger
The Curve is a pretty strong ball (Low RG/High Diff) with a course OOB finish to begin with (500 / 500/ / 500 Abralon / 1500 Abranet w/ Powerhouse factory finish ) it could actually be too dry and the ball is burning up and just appears weak.
A coarser finish would help make it earlier if it was oilier, if it's really dry it would just make it worse and burn up just that much more.First, will it help to go with a coarser finish and second, what finish would I go with?
Given the OOB finish you can't get much coarser, maybe just leave off the polish and the 1500 abranet.
Without actually seeing the conditions, I would guess it was more likely too dry or your playing the dry too much for the ball. I would be more inclined to trying the ball with a smoother surface, Maybe a 500/2000 or a 500/4000 surface and see the reaction.
Let the pro shop do the work.Is this something that can be done on those coin operated ball finishers or should I have a pro-shop do the work?
Most of the coin operated machines are just ball polishers, that use a buffing compound block to shine the ball up. They don't sand them down. (Useless it was something like a storm surface factory which is something totally different)
There are not really any settings to most ball polishers other than time, the longer you leave it in for the shinier it gets.I don't know anything about all that "Abralon" stuff and I know nothing about those machines so I'll need some details on what setting to use.
Last edited by bowl1820; 10-30-2014 at 04:41 PM.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
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I'm reasonably certain it's due to heavy oil as I can see the plastic balls skidding almost all the way to the pins. Also, I can see my ball revving...it just never gets a chance to grab and roll near the end. Finally, my ball is covered with oil when it comes back. The lanes are freshly oiled for the league. I'm a stroker and throw around 15 MPH. I don't believe I need to have it de-oiled as it only has about 30 games on it.
Look at some bowlers that are getting some of the motion you are looking for. Maybe you are to far in and never reaching the friction outside. Some houses have that shim a little farther out than others. If there is a pro shop in your center talk to them about a little surface on it and that should help.
I think plastic balls are supposed to do that.
Uh...haven't you seen what Mike White does with plastic?
John
I can do that with a plastic ball too...if it's 6-7lbs and I don't put my thumb in it. But GENERALLY...people swear by plastic balls to shoot spares because on a standard THS they skid all the way straight into the pin. The BBer posted that his plastic ball skids and thus it must be heavy oil...but for MOST people...their plastic ball is going to skid straight into the pin....by design.
I get your point but all the evidence points to either heavy, flat or long oil. Even our cranker gets a long, slow curve. I can see his ball rev'ing like no tomorrow almost all the way to the pins. When I'm on a more conventional shot, my ball has a nice flip on the back end. Here, I have nothing. It's like it runs out of lane before it can fully hook much less roll.
Absolut Curve
0.0 (0) Written by Admin October 01, 2013 Hits: 459 0
BOWLING BALL SPECIFICATIONS
Release Date July 16, 2013
Discontinued No
COVERSTOCK SPECIFICATIONS
Coverstock Name H-150 Crosscover
Coverstock Color Black / Orange / Yellow
Box Finish 1500 Abranet + Polish
Coverstock Type Reactive Pearl
CORE SPECIFICATIONS
Core Type Symmetrical
Minimum RG 2.480
Total Differental 0.048
As Bowl1820 said it could be burning up. I would ask the counter or the mechanic about the pattern. If it is heavy or long I would start at 500/4000 amd throw it. If not enough then go 500/2000
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