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Thread: No "Skid/Flip" ball in my arsenal?

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    ding ding ding ding!! I bet not even Rob would argue with you there!!

    BUT....even with a very low rev release...I bet a sanded ball moves more than a polished one! Right?
    A sanded ball moves more in the oil than a polished one, but a polished ball moves more in the friction, so who's to say?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnhoffman View Post
    Holy walls of text!

    Get a Yeti Untamed, roll the ball onto the lane at the foul line, don't squeeze the damn ball, give it time to rev up, and it will skid/flip regardless of your rev rate,... I've seen your videos - remember that balls don't rev up in the air... You gotta lay that thing down and roll it.
    Mine does.

  3. #33
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortheloveofbowling View Post
    Mr Aslan,

    1) Do you know your pap position?
    No. I know how to find it if I have some measurement equipment or a ball spinner…but I don't have those so, no.

    Quote Originally Posted by fortheloveofbowling View Post
    2) Do you have access to a pro shop operator that knows his product line and has a grasp on laying out a ball?
    Yes. Actually, I have access to 5 really good pro shops/ball drillers.
    Quote Originally Posted by fortheloveofbowling View Post
    3) Does this guy know your game and can he watch you throw the ball before recommending a layout?
    Well…2 of the 4 have seen me bowl. Both Mike and the guy that run the pro shop in my home center have seen me throw a lot of shots. The other two guys haven't watched me throw a shot, but both have drilled balls for pro bowlers and I think at least one of them was a former pro. The 5th place is owned by a pro but I've never actually went there for ball services.

    The arsenal is pictured below for all to peruse and hail and shower with accolades. As to measurements:

    Slingshot: CG in the middle of the span, about 4" from the pin which is slightly up and 1.5" from the finger hole.

    Rhythm: The CG is offset about 1.25" from the center of the span and the pin is 3.25" away and an inch just right and above the finger hole.

    On the more aggressive Encounter (A): The CG is kicked out quite a bit away from the center of the span (4") and a smaller deep balance hole is right next to it. The pin is about 1.75-2" directly right of the finger hole and it is 4.5" from the CG.

    On the less aggressive Encounter (N): The pin is in about the same place relative to the finger hole, but the CG is much closer to it (<3") and the balance hole is kicked a little further out, is larger in diameter, but more shallow.

    Bullet Train: CG is 1.25" offset from the center of the span and the pin is 2.5" away, just 1.25" slightly below the finger hole.

    There is a picture below. But generally my pin is either even or slightly up on the 4 balls drilled by Mike W. On the other ball it is slightly down. The Encounters are asymmetric and the other 3 symmetric.

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  4. #34

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    No wonder on those balls you don't get back end motion. Those angles are mostly working against each other to create smooth motions by burning up. A small angle from pin to vertical axis line will make the ball transition fastest at the break point. Problem is the drilling angles are smaller also which makes the ball want to roll up earlier. In other words you have drillings there that want to rev up quick and roll quick=burn up and produce a flatter smoother motion.

    Just to add some things. I don't know your pap but even if it is 5-6 inches what i said holds true. I have noticed layouts like that when walter ray was on shark. Why? He was trying to get that ball to transition and roll as soon as possible.
    Last edited by fortheloveofbowling; 11-08-2014 at 10:39 PM.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by fortheloveofbowling View Post
    No wonder on those balls you don't get back end motion. Those angles are mostly working against each other to create smooth motions by burning up. A small angle from pin to vertical axis line will make the ball transition fastest at the break point. Problem is the drilling angles are smaller also which makes the ball want to roll up earlier. In other words you have drillings there that want to rev up quick and roll quick=burn up and produce a flatter smoother motion.

    Just to add some things. I don't know your pap but even if it is 5-6 inches what i said holds true. I have noticed layouts like that when walter ray was on shark. Why? He was trying to get that ball to transition and roll as soon as possible.
    Unless Aslan is out on bone dry boards, his normal 1st transition occurs about 5 feet past the pins.


    His Val angle is about 50 degrees, so it stays in the hook phase longer on those occasions where he is on bone dry boards.

    I say longer, but with his lack of revs, the forces slowing down the ball, and increasing revs overwhelms the forces making the ball turn left, so the ball ends up rolling flat.

  6. #36

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    If Aslan has a med-strong asymmetrical ball (rg in 2.49-2.52 range) in his closet he should try something different. Pin above fingers somewhere between ring and bridge and mass bias just a little right of thumb(1/2 inch). I think he would see a motion on the lane and impact at the pins he has not seen. That lower rg is still going to rev up quick even above the fingers and even a moderate diff ball should show him angle at the pins he might like.
    Last edited by fortheloveofbowling; 11-09-2014 at 12:03 AM.

  7. #37
    Bowling God Aslan's Avatar
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    Mudpuppy Cliff Notes:

    Aslan sucks so unless he's bowling on the moon or underwater...drilling is really just putting holes in the ball that his fingers fit in.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aslan View Post
    Mudpuppy Cliff Notes:

    Aslan sucks so unless he's bowling on the moon or underwater...drilling is really just putting holes in the ball that his fingers fit in.
    Man i watched your video from vegas and you have a good enough arm swing, approach, and even release to average 180-185. Obviously time and practice will make you better. I'm not patting you on the back because if your pins are all in the same area you are screwing yourself 200.00 at a time. You are an analytical minded person so understand this, when you put that pin farther right you are making these cores more stable, decreasing flare and really nullifying what they were designed to do. You should stay with pin positions inside and above the fingers especially with a symmetric ball. You can get away with pin down under fingers on asymmetric stuff and fine tune with the mass bias. Try some pin above your bridge and cg and mb not kicked out so far and your equipment will retain more energy at the pocket and your strike percentage will increase.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobLV1 View Post
    A sanded ball moves more in the oil than a polished one, but a polished ball moves more in the friction, so who's to say?
    thanks for making that point rob!! I think that's why I have had most of my best games with polished ball. like you have said, To each his own, and there is a place for both solid, and polished!
    Don't walk on Thin Ice!

  10. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by fortheloveofbowling View Post
    Man i watched your video from vegas and you have a good enough arm swing, approach, and even release to average 180-185. Obviously time and practice will make you better. I'm not patting you on the back because if your pins are all in the same area you are screwing yourself 200.00 at a time. You are an analytical minded person so understand this, when you put that pin farther right you are making these cores more stable, decreasing flare and really nullifying what they were designed to do. You should stay with pin positions inside and above the fingers especially with a symmetric ball. You can get away with pin down under fingers on asymmetric stuff and fine tune with the mass bias. Try some pin above your bridge and cg and mb not kicked out so far and your equipment will retain more energy at the pocket and your strike percentage will increase.
    Putting the pin further right (for a right-handed bowler) does not make the core more stable, in fact, if you look at the BTM article about the Storm VDLS System, written by Steve Kloempkin at Storm, a pin buffer of 2" from the VAL, produces the most flare. Flare is produced by an unstable core position, not a stable one. What is more significant, putting the pin above the bridge or the ring finger, depending on the PAP of the individual bowler, usually equates to a longer, weaker, pin to PAP distance. Not "kicking out" the PSA results in less core involvement. Personally, I just had a ball drilled for fried lanes with the pin under the bridge, toward the middle finger, and the cg straight down to the thumb hole. I chose this layout for maximum length and minimum core involvement, which is exactly what I got from it. What a particular layout does for one bowler, does not necessarily equate to another bowler unless their styles and PAP's are the same. It's all about angles and distances.

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