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Thread: Straight wrist straight bowler drilling standard?

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    Default Straight wrist straight bowler drilling standard?

    Is there such a standard drilling? The old Brunswick has what must be a 75* thumb matched by the fingers. If I insert my thumb fully and insert my fingers close to the middle knuckles I can relax my grip and pick up the ball. In fact I have to use my left hand to pull my fingers, one at a time, so I might release the ball.

    To date this hasn't been an issue as I do not bowl w/fingers jammed almost to the second knuckle. I have no issue w/release possibly because I do not cup the ball. Basically I'm holding the ball w/forearm within a slightly too small span. I think I'd like to open up the thumb to 105* along w/correct span. If I did that would it be the norm to leave the fingers at the same angle? Is there a std angle for the fingers in a conventional, middle of the knuckles, grip and/or only the thumb angle usually adjusted to individual preference?

    Even being ignorant of bowling I realize that there is a point in my straight wrist swing where I would not be able to prevent the ball from releasing early if the thumb and/or thumb/fingers were to open of a drilling angle.

    Also, is there any advantage in having the holes drilled longer than needed for the length of your digits? It seems to me that the best length would leave the tips of fingers/thumb in contact w/ball. As opposed to an abyss beyond the appendages.

    I'm going to have the old Brunswick drilled again to differing specs, hopefully more comfortable/easier release w/o dropping the ball in back swing or too early release, and I'm seeking sound advice in drilling angles for my straight wrist style. Hopefully I'll get it right as then I wish to drill the three balls enroute.

    Thanks.

    ETA: I realize the span will change dependent on the angles drilled for the thumb and/or fingers. I'm hoping to be close w/new drilling on the old ball that if successful in delivery can be duplicated on the new balls. In one felled swoop perhaps at a group discount. This new hobby is starting to break the bank.
    Last edited by samdasham; 11-27-2014 at 09:43 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by samdasham View Post
    Is there such a standard drilling? The old Brunswick has what must be a 75* thumb matched by the fingers. If I insert my thumb fully and insert my fingers close to the middle knuckles I can relax my grip and pick up the ball. In fact I have to use my left hand to pull my fingers, one at a time, so I might release the ball.

    To date this hasn't been an issue as I do not bowl w/fingers jammed almost to the second knuckle. I have no issue w/release possibly because I do not cup the ball. Basically I'm holding the ball w/forearm within a slightly too small span. I think I'd like to open up the thumb to 105* along w/correct span. If I did that would it be the norm to leave the fingers at the same angle? Is there a std angle for the fingers in a conventional, middle of the knuckles, grip and/or only the thumb angle usually adjusted to individual preference?
    a 75* thumb matched by the fingers? open up the thumb to 105* ? just what are you referring too?

    It sound's like you just have a ball drilled with a conventional grip, That's where the fingers go into the ball to the second knuckle.



    A fingertip is where the fingers go in to the first knuckle.



    Everyones grip spec's will different, whether they use a conventional or fingertip grip.

    They will have different spans (the distance between the finger and thumb holes)
    The finger and thumb holes will have different pitches, both lateral and forward or reverse.


    Even being ignorant of bowling I realize that there is a point in my straight wrist swing where I would not be able to prevent the ball from releasing early if the thumb and/or thumb/fingers were to open of a drilling angle.
    Yes If the ball is fitted properly, you won't drop it just because you have a straight wrist.

    Also, is there any advantage in having the holes drilled longer than needed for the length of your digits? It seems to me that the best length would leave the tips of fingers/thumb in contact w/ball. As opposed to an abyss beyond the appendages.
    Holes are usually only drilled as deep as needed, you usually don't have your fingers touching bottom though.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

  3. #3

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    I'm sure it's a conventional grip that probably came w/ball as a medium size grip. I have med-large hand w/stubby fat fingers. I ask about the depth coz finger inserts utilize, as I understand, the tips of fingers. I thought perhaps the same might ring true for a semi-conventional/conventional where the fingers were only inserted to the middle of the knuckles. And the thumb stopping just prior to the last knuckle.

    Here's the chart I dug up and because it only lists the thumb it suggested to me that the fingers perhaps, in a conventional grip, stayed at the same angle though the thumb angle was used as the primary adjustment for style/comfort within one's span. Evah so roughly. It could be a thumb drilling chart for insert style or both as far as I know. And I know little.

    http://kmtballjig.com/images/Thumb_A...itch_Chart.pdf

    ETA: I can see where a smaller hand/less strength might require fingers/thumb at an acute angle/conventional grip in order to hold the ball. As well a larger hand and/or considerable forearm strength might enable a more open grip that should be easier to release and perhaps enable a bit more of spin though still within the conventional style grip.
    Last edited by samdasham; 11-27-2014 at 11:44 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by samdasham View Post
    Here's the chart I dug up and because it only lists the thumb it suggested to me that the fingers perhaps, in a conventional grip, stayed at the same angle though the thumb angle was used as the primary adjustment for style/comfort within one's span. Evah so roughly.

    http://kmtballjig.com/images/Thumb_A...itch_Chart.pdf
    That chart just shows suggested forward/reverse pitches, based on the span measurement and thumb flexibility.

    The 105° , 75° etc you see in that chart is referring to the flexibility of the thumb and is not the angle the thumb hole is drilled at and has nothing to do with the fingers.


    Fitting a bowling ball is a hands on process and should be done by the PSO (Pro Shop operator), you can't really do it yourself (unless you have some experience and specialize knowledge)
    Last edited by bowl1820; 11-27-2014 at 11:50 AM.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

    "Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker

  5. #5

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    Thanks again for sharing. The chart started me thinking that maybe I wanted a more open grip as it illustrated various degrees. Well, that and the callous pad on the inside of my thumb twixt the knuckles. A pro driller will do the work and I do not discount his opinion. However, if I ask a dozen drillers I feel I will receive several varying opinions. Which is why I wish to educate myself on the possibilities.

    As previously mentioned I wish to try a new grip w/my span on the old ball as I'd like to have the three new balls drilled based on those measurements. If I get lucky on the yet to be decided new grip.

    Employing the current too small span leaves a lot of room from ball to gloved palm. It isn't that I'm having a problem. I feel I can do better and that the large callous is giving me a sign to open up. Whether that direction is named forward/reverse I know not, but the grip needs to open up and the thumb at 105* seemed to be a middle of the road compromise.

    ETA: Everything I read says insert thumb first then fingers. To me this means the layout of the bowler's span starts w/thumb. The differential, dependent on thumb position in degrees forward/reverse, is applied in order to end up w/correct span/length. I also read where it's considered advantageous to clear the thumb first. It seems that a thumb in an open grip would achieve this w/greater ease. Maybe I'm way off base.

    Right about now I consider the new position of my thumb/span as being somewhat critical. It's the difference, to a certain extent, of having your own ball vs using different house balls every time you bowl. I know I can adapt to different spans/size holes, but I'd like to find one that fits as a glove so to speak.
    Last edited by samdasham; 11-27-2014 at 03:47 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by samdasham View Post

    ETA: Everything I read says insert thumb first then fingers. To me this means the layout of the bowler's span starts w/thumb. The differential, dependent on thumb position in degrees forward/reverse, is applied in order to end up w/correct span/length. I also read where it's considered advantageous to clear the thumb first. It seems that a thumb in an open grip would achieve this w/greater ease. Maybe I'm way off base.

    Right about now I consider the new position of my thumb/span as being somewhat critical. It's the difference, to a certain extent, of having your own ball vs using different house balls every time you bowl. I know I can adapt to different spans/size holes, but I'd like to find one that fits as a glove so to speak.
    Are you talking about checking the span here? When checking your span, the pro shop operator will have you put your thumb in first and see how your knuckles line up with the finger holes.

    However most coaches teach bowlers to place their fingers in the ball first and then the thumb when actually bowling. Almost every professional bowler, with the exception of Tommy Jones, does it that way. In accounting parlance it's LIFO---Last In First Out.

    Find a good pro shop and it will fit like a (very heavy) glove.
    John

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the reply. I'm wrong quite often and could've turned around the order on a conventional grip. However, on my old ball I have to insert the thumb first. Of course it wasn't drilled for my span and I had to have all the holes opened up so my sausages could get through the door.

    I found http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/ima...ichFitting.pdf, that illustrates thumb flexibility by having the bowler hold his palm parallel w/floor and opening up the thumb towards the floor stretching the web twixt the index finger/thumb. It's slowly starting to sink in a bit. I suppose I'm a mite nervous about having the balls drilled.

    ETA: Maybe my order, due to a more flexible thumb than fingers, dictates reversal. I can plant me thumb first and the fingers fall into place. However, fingers first has the thumb struggling after the first knuckle. This is what I saw when I started this query on the 105*[reverse pitch?] thumb hole angle. Combined w/knot on the inside of my thumb twixt the knuckles.

    I want my hand to open up, smoother release/wider grip, and then naturally that will bring me closer to the ball. The only way I can become closer is to have a ball fitted to me. I didn't know if the thumb hole angle was mandatory due to measurement or if it was optional within a certain range of degrees.

    I didn't wish for a driller to half-arse me fit because I average 120 whether I bowl 2-3 games or 20 somethin' w/drilled out blue light special from the last century. My concern was that I might get a one size fits all/generic/universal/ball cap drilling because I'm a straight bowling schmuck that's two pins a frame from flirting w/double digit average.
    Last edited by samdasham; 11-28-2014 at 08:50 AM.
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