Entry level ball and Oil absorption ?

**ralphs007** · 12-10-2014, 03:11 PM

Hi
I have a Columbia Scout 300, http://www.bowlingball.com/products/...igers-eye.html
I bowled yesterday and I had to wipe the oil off every time before I threw my next shot. I didn't want to the get oil all over my hands. I never seen so much oil on my ball before.
My question is will this ball eventually need the oil removed from it like the higher end balls do ?
I wasn't sure so I cleaned it with 50/50 alcohol and simple green when I got home. Is this even necessary with an entry level ball ? I'm guessing yes since the specs say reactive resin.
Thanks in advance

**bowl1820** · 12-10-2014, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by ralphs007

Hi
My question is will this ball eventually need the oil removed from it like the higher end balls do ?

Possibly, All balls will absorb oil over time, just at varying rates. How much will depend on things like the conditions, how much you bowl and how often you clean your equipment etc.

Is this even necessary with an entry level ball ?

Cleaning after bowling is important for any ball! not just high end ones. A good cleaning & maintenance regimen will greatly extend the life of your equipment.

I wipe between shots and clean after a set. Plus I refresh my surfaces and do a deeper cleaning one a week at home. I have balls with 100's games on them and rarely have any oil come out when I try a deoiling.

**ralphs007** · 12-10-2014, 05:28 PM

Thank you !

**Mike White** · 12-10-2014, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by ralphs007

Hi
I have a Columbia Scout 300, http://www.bowlingball.com/products/...igers-eye.html
I bowled yesterday and I had to wipe the oil off every time before I threw my next shot. I didn't want to the get oil all over my hands. I never seen so much oil on my ball before.
My question is will this ball eventually need the oil removed from it like the higher end balls do ?
I wasn't sure so I cleaned it with 50/50 alcohol and simple green when I got home. Is this even necessary with an entry level ball ? I'm guessing yes since the specs say reactive resin.
Thanks in advance

The Scout does not use a modern core, therefore its not likely to flare much, it may not have more oil on the surface than a flaring ball, what oil it does have is likely to be piled up on the same ring making it look like more oil.

**ralphs007** · 01-31-2015, 11:57 PM

I just made a ball oven, like the one dnhoffman made, using a food dehydrator. I had oil coming out of my Scout 300, for almost four hours. I also used the oven on my new Blue Ringer, and it also bled oil for four hours.
I wipe my equipment down after every throw, with a microfiber towel. After five games, I spray some cleaner on a towel, and wipe them both down. When I'm done bowling , I clean the Scout and the Blue Ringer one last time with a cleaner, and then put them away. Even after doing this every time I bowl, they still soaked up a lot of oil!
Thanks dnhoffman for the good idea, it worked like a champ !

**Aslan** · 02-01-2015, 12:26 AM

I've never baked mine for more than about 45 minutes.

**speedster** · 02-09-2015, 09:13 PM

I noticed that my new Ruckus never appears to be very oily while the plastic house balls are sopping wet with oil. I assume it's because my ball is sucking the oil into the cover. I have a microfiber towel but it never seems to be that necessary to use it. I've been cleaning my ball with ebonite reactive ball cleaner at the end of the night but again it doesn't seem to pull much gunk off at all. In fact the ebonite cleaner looks and smells just like Windex.

**mc_runner** · 02-10-2015, 09:12 AM

After a few weeks of bowling with that (especially if there are a bunch of house balls on the same lanes) you'll start to notice a little "sheen" to your ball. It may still look dry but it'll be soaked with oil if you don't clean it. If you stuck it in an oven or a hot water bath you'd be amazed at how much oil will bleed out!