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Thread: DIY De-Oiler

  1. #1

    Default DIY De-Oiler

    Following Aslan and some other's DIY De-Oiler. I decided to do my own. Basically the same thing.

    Had a NuWave Infrared Oven already so used that as the heat source. Thermometer to regulate temperature and a Home Depot bucket is all I needed

    With the NuWave sitting directly on top of bucket it was too hot, even at lowest power setting. Was getting up to 150-160

    So put braces on top of bucket and let the oven sit higher it stabilized to around 127-130.

    Here is thermometer in bucket


    Setup


    Temperature readout


    Exhaust holes (not sure if necessary though)


    Ball was barely warm when I removed it so temperature setting was very conservative.

    Just wiped down the ball and cleaned with ball cleaner to get any residue/oil off.

  2. #2

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    More images

    NuWave Oven


    Rods to keep oven higher


    Another view


    Not much oil, probably because I did the water bath thing yesterday

  3. #3

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    Just tried with my wife Maxim ball and no oil. I guess these spare ball cover stocks are more resistant to oil since they're designed to go straight

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NewToBowling View Post
    Just tried with my wife Maxim ball and no oil. I guess these spare ball cover stocks are more resistant to oil since they're designed to go straight
    Yes no need to de-oil plastic balls.

    Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798

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  5. #5

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    No wonder wife's Maxim ball is so oily after every roll. It doesn't seep in

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    Quote Originally Posted by NewToBowling View Post
    No wonder wife's Maxim ball is so oily after every roll. It doesn't seep in
    If you don't wipe it off, it transfers to clothes and hands.

    It neither seeps in, nor does the ball flare, so all of the oil is piled up on a narrow track.

    Remember, all of the oil you see on the ball when it comes back indicates the ball had that much and more oil on it when it reached the end of the oil pattern.

    Oil is just a likely to transfer from the lane (where oil was applied) to the ball, as it is likely for oil to transfer back to the lane (where oil wasn't applied) from the ball.

    Reactive resin balls peal more oil off of the lane due to track flare, and transfer less oil back onto the lane (back ends) because of that track flare.

    Track flare is a product of the differential in the RG measurements.

  7. #7
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    That's a pretty cool setup you made. One thing I have learned about these new balls is that they are high maintenance and cost too much to neglect.

  8. #8

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    Yeah it's pretty simple. Plan to use this every 3 months

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