You may feel more comfortable throwing 13 lbs, but unless you throw a ton of revs the ball will simply deflect more and you'll lose carry. Perhaps look into getting a wrist support to ease the pressure and keep the same ball?
Should I switch from 14 to 13lbs?
For me, I haven't noticed any difference in pin carry between a 15 and 14lb ball. Do you think I'll see a difference moving from a 14 to a 13lb ball (I want to try a lighter ball because of a wrist injury)? I am considering getting an Ebonite Cyclone because they have the same core in 10lbs through 16lbs. Do you think that a 13 lb ball will give me more 5 pins and splits from pocket hits?
Last edited by morgothaod; 03-24-2015 at 12:28 PM.
You may feel more comfortable throwing 13 lbs, but unless you throw a ton of revs the ball will simply deflect more and you'll lose carry. Perhaps look into getting a wrist support to ease the pressure and keep the same ball?
Make that change only as a last resort. Very few balls have the same core in balls that are 13 lbs and less then they do in the 14-16 lb balls. Going below 14 lbs is really a desperation move in terms of the availability of viable bowling balls.
Even the Cyclone (ball I use) uses a different core from 14 down to 13 pounds. At least thats what the pro shop owner said. 14-16 lb = same core. 13 lb and under different. Which is why I went with 14 lb. Otherwise would have purchased 13 lb
Ebonite website claims the core is the same from 10 to 16 lbs.Originally Posted by NewToBowling
Does that mean the 10-13 is better than most other cores, or the 14-16 is worse than other cores??????
I use 12lb bowling balls due to physical limitations. My average is 205. I see no carry differences between the 12lb stuff and when I was able to throw 14lb. There are numerous manufacturers who offer lighter weight bowling balls with dynamics virtually identical to their heavier weight versions (Elite, Motiv, Brunswick/DV8/Radical, Lane1, some Storm). It is just a matter of shopping carefully and selecting the balls that maintain that dynamic integrity.
As with any bowling ball, if you can get the ball to break/flip and roll into the pocket it will carry. If it means bowling pain-free, it is definitely worth it.
Ok lets make this simple, name one Radical ball with identical dynamic numbers at 12 lbs as at 14 lbs.
Most models they don't provide a ball under 14 lbs, and of those that they do, the diff is about 16% lower on sub 14 lb balls compared to 14 and above.
Last edited by Mike White; 03-25-2015 at 02:01 AM.
Truth is anything less than 14 lbs. you are most likely putting yourself at a disadvantage. If it's the only way you can bowl free from serious pain then do it and live with the consequences. At least you will still be able to enjoy the game. If you can make other changes (different grip, wrist support, whatever) exhaust those possibilities first.
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Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
Can someone break down "dynamic integrity" for me? I know I should get a ball with the same core as the 14-16 lb ones. What else should I be looking for? I also want to mention that I do wrap my wrist and wear a wrist guard (Metal one). I'm able to bowl well and be relatively pain free, however; I do think my wrist will feel better with a 13 lb ball.
I tried a 13 and 12 lb house ball today. My 14 and their 13 felt the same (Which I guess would make sense since I have an extra hole drilled into my ball). However, I wasn't able to throw the balls that well because they weren't drilled for my hand. I threw each shot like a hook ball and ended up dropping a few of my shots (So the speed of the lighter balls equaled my 14 lb one). I'm still on the fence as to what to do and if I should even consider a 12 lb.
Last edited by morgothaod; 03-25-2015 at 10:57 AM.
A little history...
Normal urethane balls hooked more than plastic, but many people still had a lot of trouble getting the ball to go into a roll and drive the 5 pin out.
Ball companies discovered if they included an additive into the urethane, the ball would grip the dry area of the lane more, while sliding on the oily part of the lane more.
These balls would either hook a ton, or skid a mile. Very finicky.
The problem was, as the ball rolled down the oily part of the lane, oil attached itself to the ball, and when the ball exited the oil on the lane, there was still some oil on the ball between the ball and the lane.
Somewhere along the line (during my time away from bowling) they included the heavy core of the ball which when drilled in an unstable position, would cause track flare.
By having a spiral track instead of one circle, the oil attached to the ball was no longer between the ball and the lane further down. That allows a more consistent ball reaction as it exited the oil.
But that is an incomplete solution because next time you throw the ball, the previous oil was still on the surface.
Another additive allowed the ball to absorb any surface oil while you're waiting for your next turn.
Track flare potential can be predicted by the balls low RG, and high RG difference, known as the differential.
Most ball manufactures do a good job of keeping the differential the same for balls of weight 14 thru 16, but since the cores of 10 - 13 have to be so light, they tend to have a lower differential, and therefore less flare potential.
dynamic integrity implies a consistent flare potential across the weight spectrum of a ball model.
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