Do You have a Bowling Ball Strategy?

[ALazySavage]

1. If you have more bowling balls than you take with you when you bowl, how do you decide what balls to take?

I have two bowling balls that I typically do not take to league night. One is an old brunswick zone that is going to be transitioned into a practice ball, the other ball is a Columbia 300 Freeze Hybrid. I do not take the Freeze to league because I have a similar motion with my IQ Tour Fusion - Essentially the Columbia is just "weaker" and is good to use when I only need to make a subtle adjustment from the IQ (so I will take it to tournaments, but feel that I don't need to be that precise every night at league).

2. How many balls do you take with you?

5 balls (See signature)

3. How do you decide which ball with which to start?

I have transitioned into always starting with my Reign Supreme since it is my "benchmark" ball. Essentially I have an adjustment to any desired ball roll off of this ball, I can go to something that rolls earlier, something that goes longer and harder, and something something that goes longer but isn't strong on the backend.

4. When it's time to make a ball change, what determines the change you make?

Typically it is how the ball is rolling through the mid-lane or what is occurring on the backends. Obviously if a ball is rolling out I will transition to something that will push through the front of the lanes cleanly, or if the backends change I will switch to a ball that counteracts what is occurring.

5. When you decide to buy a new bowling ball, what criteria do you use to make your choice?

Essentially when buying a new ball it comes down to two things - am I looking for a new reaction to fill a hole in my bag or am I trying to replace something that doesn't react anymore.

[Aslan]

AAs: Aslan's Answer's

1. If you have more bowling balls than you take with you when you bowl, how do you decide what balls to take?
I take the ones in my current arsenal and don't take the ones that are undrilled or retired (from a past arsenal).
If you mean having multiple balls in your current arsenal and leaving some home...that does not apply to me. I feel that you should be able to find a strike ball that works if you have 3-6 to choose from. If it takes more than that...you're either making a living as a pro bowler or you need serious work on the SKILL part of the game (rather than the ball part).
As to why I retire some and don't fancy the idea of bringing some of them along...1) See answer above. 2) they are different weights and I prefer not to mix weights.
2. How many balls do you take with you?
4 strike, 1 spare
3. How do you decide which ball with which to start?
I used to just go Solid, Hybrid, Pearl and start with the most aggressive and work to the least aggressive.
I then developed a system for my 5-ball arsenal where I'd start with the middle one as a benchmark and adjust as needed.
But for the last year or so I've allowed my Coach to determine the progression based on her watching me throw and knowing more than I do about the covers of different bowling balls, different brands, etc...
4. When it's time to make a ball change, what determines the change you make?
I used to have a system where if I moved laterally twice in either direction and still needed to move a 3rd time...I'd go back to the original line and ball up or down.
My new system was given to me by my coach and that is to continue making lateral adjustments left until you miss right. Granted, that assumes you're executing consistently and at the same speed and hitting your mark. But whether I make a 1:1, 2:1, or 3:2 move is based on what spare I leave. I also added my own slight adjustment strategy based on how the ball exits the pin deck.

The new system makes a LOT of sense if you think about it. For me, as an example, if I'm throwing my Lethal Revolver and everything is going well...then I go through the nose, leave a split. I'd make a 2:1 (2 boards feet, 1 board target) move left. Lets say that works...but I later leave another split through the nose...I'd make another 2:1. But lets say after a 3rd 2:1...shots all executed well, I suddenly leave a 1-2-10 due to a miss right.

Well, in that situation, you've now moved too deep and the rev rate/speed combination can no longer make the turn...the angle is too great. I would then move back 2:1 to the right (the last line that worked) and I'd ball down.

However...I did learn somethings about this system during this mornings practice so I'll add that in my scoring section later.
5. When you decide to buy a new bowling ball, what criteria do you use to make your choice?
I usually use the same method I use when buying a car or cell phone. I aim for something that is new, undrilled, and can be gotten at a relative discount due to newer models being released.

In terms of what "type" of new ball I would look for (relating it to the arsenal question), I have a 4-tiered system that takes into account the ball covers, specifications, and PerfectScale rating and a ball falls into a #1, #2, #3, and #4 slot...and so if I'm trying to fill a hole in an arsenal that has a #1, #3, and #4 but is missing the #2...I'd look at my short list (wish list) of different balls and see which ones fits as a #2.

Thanks in advance for your help.
You're welcome...although I doubt what I do can transfer very well to your average reader. It takes a special level of nerd to appreciate my madness.

[RobLV1]

This is exactly the thought that has been occupying my mind of late.. So I'm looking forward to your article.

1) I'll bring the same balls everywhere unless I'm working on testing a surface or comparing two balls. The bigger question is what surfaces will I bring of the same balls to give me a wide range If I don't know what I'm getting into, or a few tailored surfaces close together to give me a good ball change adjustment. (example, May set Optimus and Marvel Pearl with different surfaces because I know they are so close OOB)
2) I want to carry 4... But since my bags are a 3 ball and 2 ball I carry 5. Thug Unruly (2000), IQ Fusion (4000), Marvel Pearl (1500Polish), Hyroad (4000), Tropical Breeze (1500Polish). To a typical League night or Practice session.
3) I always want to be throwing the Marvel Pearl. It has the best hold when I miss inside and great recovery if I miss outside. Unfortunately if My speed is a bit slow and the back ends are sharp its split monster. So typically I'll start with the IQ Fusion which requires I'm a bit more precise but is a bit easier to control with sharp back ends or over under condition, then move to the marvel when there is a bit more carry down or if the back ends are less sharp.
4) I switch the the Thug Unruly when the outsides are toasted and the oil requires me to move very deep or a more direct line with less angle through the front, since the carry on the unruly is unbelievable even on a light hit. The hyroad is my ball when I lose pocket and start going over-under. its about a 3/2 move right from the Marvel and blends out the lane when I get in trouble. The marvel and IQ play well of of each other when I move left 1 and 1 or 2 and 1 as my line dries out. If I'm in the Marvel Pearl and hit weak after a move, I'll switch to the IQ for a few shots until it starts going High.. then switch back to the Marvel Pearl
5) I'm flush with balls for now.. at is it I have a Optimus basically sitting on the bench except for practices and a Hyroad Pearl which stays in my locker for those days I stop buy without any equipment on hand. .. But looking at my arsenal I need something between the Hyroad and Tropical Breeze (Ride?). OR possibly a Urethane or a symmetrical solid. I'll buy one when I find a deal on Ebay for one of those balls, but more likely I'll run into a condition where I wish I had a ball (like a Urethane or Symmetric solid) and then obsess about it until I buy it.

One last thing.. for anyone thinking what I carry with me is overkill... I believe in giving myself the best chance no matter if its a league night or a practice. So if I carry my tropical breeze with me 20 times and never use it, I'd rather do that than hurt my team by not having it the one time I need it.

I don't mean to single you out, but why are you focused totally on surfaces? I wrote an article a couple of years ago for BTM in which I used the analogy of a car when talking about bowling balls. It went something like this: 1) the core is the engine, 2) the layout is the gear ratio, 3) the surface material is the tires, and 4) the surface is the vehicle profile (think about the shape of a race car vs. the shape of a truck. It would be worthwhile for you to lookup the article in the archives. I think it will give you a slightly different perspective.

[J Anderson]

I see, my average was about 10 pins lower left handed but I was pretty sure if I had continued doing it a while longer that I could get it a little closer.
I've rarely run across someone who did what I did but I had never run across someone that bowled left in one league and right in another, how do your averages compare ?

Left handed is still 10 to 15 pins lower. Spare shooting is always an adventure, it will go well for a while and then it's like a short circuit between my brain and arm

[RobLV1]

Left handed is still 10 to 15 pins lower. Spare shooting is always an adventure, it will go well for a while and then it's like a short circuit between my brain and arm

I would like to respectfully request that you start a separate thread regarding bowling with two different hands. I really need feedback on the original topic, and this twist makes that topic really hard to follw. Thank you in advance for your help and cooperation.

[Tony]

If you take more than one strike ball when you bowl, do you have a bowling ball strategy? I am beginning a new article for BTM, and would like a little help. It will be much appreciated.

1. If you have more bowling balls than you take with you when you bowl, how do you decide what balls to take?
2. How many balls do you take with you?
3. How do you decide which ball with which to start?
4. When it's time to make a ball change, what determines the change you make?
5. When you decide to buy a new bowling ball, what criteria do you use to make your choice?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Rob Mautner

Sorry Rob, for the off topic venture.

I have a total of 5 balls, 2 come with me in the bag, 2 are in my locker and one is home in the closet ( needs to be resurfaced and a thumb plugged and drilled.

I am primarily working on adding balls and learning what's best to help my game, until a year ago I was a one ball bowler.

I have chosen to start this year with my primary ball a Diva divine and a dv8 black spare ball. There is a roto grip hyper cell skid and dv8 outcast in the locker for when I can't adjust the diva to the conditions.

I will hesitate to change balls and only do so when I can't adjust with the diva.

Having looked at some heavy oil balls where I could play deeper in the oil I found the Radical Guru master seems to work well for me and will probably pick one up sometime.

[J Anderson]

I would like to respectfully request that you start a separate thread regarding bowling with two different hands. I really need feedback on the original topic, and this twist makes that topic really hard to follw. Thank you in advance for your help and cooperation.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your tread.

[Tony]

I would like to respectfully request that you start a separate thread regarding bowling with two different hands. I really need feedback on the original topic, and this twist makes that topic really hard to follw. Thank you in advance for your help and cooperation.

Sorry Rob, I think my questions were largely responsible for the off topic swerve.

[bobforsaken]

I don't mean to single you out, but why are you focused totally on surfaces? I wrote an article a couple of years ago for BTM in which I used the analogy of a car when talking about bowling balls. It went something like this: 1) the core is the engine, 2) the layout is the gear ratio, 3) the surface material is the tires, and 4) the surface is the vehicle profile (think about the shape of a race car vs. the shape of a truck. It would be worthwhile for you to lookup the article in the archives. I think it will give you a slightly different perspective.

I rewrote this because it came across as undeserving-ly annoyed. I'll just say this.. we've had this conversation.. many. many MANY times. It seems as though if one omits any factor in bowling ball motion the assumption is that you are ignorant and the only thing you know about bowling balls is that they are round. I know you can't remember every conversation with every bowler and there are many who have never taken the time to learn about RG, for example.

I listed ball models which Have RG and differentials listed on manufacture website (or at least the specs before drilling). For the same reason I didn't specify that the Fusion or Hyroad were Hybrids,I didn't list the core specs. Its redundant since the model was listed. I mentioned Surface because that is something that I can change based on the conditions I'm anticipating which was part of the answer to question 1.

However since its brought up.. As you can Tell from the ball specs the Unruly and Hyroad are both RG's in the 2.55 Range. The Fusion and Marvel are RG's of 2.49 and 2.48 which is why they are often my balls on fresh conditions when energy retention is not a concern and I want them to rev sooner. My Tropical Breeze and Thug Unruly both have larger VAL angles to their drilling and have Pin to Pap lengths of 5+ (as does my Hyroad Pearl which I rarely bring). The Hyroad, Marvel Pearl, and Fusion all have Similar layouts with approx 4 inch pin to pap and medium PSA and VAL angles

[RobLV1]

I rewrote this because it came across as undeserving-ly annoyed. I'll just say this.. we've had this conversation.. many. many MANY times. It seems as though if one omits any factor in bowling ball motion the assumption is that you are ignorant and the only thing you know about bowling balls is that they are round. I know you can't remember every conversation with every bowler and there are many who have never taken the time to learn about RG, for example.

I listed ball models which Have RG and differentials listed on manufacture website (or at least the specs before drilling). For the same reason I didn't specify that the Fusion or Hyroad were Hybrids,I didn't list the core specs. Its redundant since the model was listed. I mentioned Surface because that is something that I can change based on the conditions I'm anticipating which was part of the answer to question 1.

However since its brought up.. As you can Tell from the ball specs the Unruly and Hyroad are both RG's in the 2.55 Range. The Fusion and Marvel are RG's of 2.49 and 2.48 which is why they are often my balls on fresh conditions when energy retention is not a concern and I want them to rev sooner. My Tropical Breeze and Thug Unruly both have larger VAL angles to their drilling and have Pin to Pap lengths of 5+ (as does my Hyroad Pearl which I rarely bring). The Hyroad, Marvel Pearl, and Fusion all have Similar layouts with approx 4 inch pin to pap and medium PSA and VAL angles

I only brought it up because you seemed to be focussing largely on the surface. I apologize if I offended you, as it certainly wasn't my intent. I'm sure we've had conversations before, but between this site, other sites, and the hundreds of emails I get each year from BTM subscribers, I really couldn't remember the conversations off hand. I really meant no offense. I just figured that I'd rather be safe than sorry in case you were one of the many posters here who ignore the core characteristics simply because they don't understand them.