Also, RobLV1, Thought you'd like to know, that because of a few things I've read today, written by you, I've signed up for a BTM subscription. Thanks!!
I didn't mean to suggest anyone is over thinking anything. I put it out there to spur some more dialog. Re-surfacing a new ball is something that has been suggested numerous times, but something I can't get myself to do even if I did think about it, particularly if it works works well OOB. It definitely makes sense. But every ball that I have purchased, I researched, poured over the numbers, etc. to fill a particular need. So my natural instinct is to try it OOB for that purpose. I haven't had one yet that disappointed me out of the box. In comparison, I know I haven't tried or purchased nearly enough bowling balls to argue against your suggestion. Again, I agree that it makes sense to do, and something I'll have to keep in mind on the next purchase...which won't be anytime soon, if I can help it. Wife said 9 balls in 3 years is enough, at least until the kids start graduating from college and not entering college. 2 in, 2 more to go. Hopefully, she won't find my stash of flyrods.![]()
Current THS Anvilane average 198. High Game: 279 Series: 749
Current bag: Brunswick Wicked Siege, Hammer Arson Hybrid, Brunswick LT-48, Motiv Sniper
Also, RobLV1, Thought you'd like to know, that because of a few things I've read today, written by you, I've signed up for a BTM subscription. Thanks!!
Current THS Anvilane average 198. High Game: 279 Series: 749
Current bag: Brunswick Wicked Siege, Hammer Arson Hybrid, Brunswick LT-48, Motiv Sniper
Here is the real point to what Rob said. If you have the ball you poured over the numbers on for weeks and really love and go bowl 10-20 games with it do you still have that same reaction? The answer is no it has changed because ball surface changes after as little as 3 games! it just happens gradually so we tend not to notice until it gets really bad. That's the reason why it is important to have a finish that you can easily supplicate again because if you want to keep that motion your going to have to accept the fact that your going to need to resurface that ball every 10-20 games max.
I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
New Question:
Since I've hit 200+ games on the arsenal, I've at least started to give some thought to arsenal #3 and to clear out some of my collection...I may go back to 16lbs...if for no other reason than to go through some of the last of my collection that is at that weight. So, in other words, I'm trying to not have to buy a 16lb ball to fit in a progression spot. If I DID....I'd probably get something like a Brunswick Soul Mate and use it as the #3 option...but lets just use the below scenario for right now.
You have 4 balls....one is a 2.57 RG pearl, low diff. Essentially this is just a long, straight ball...probably similar to what I was used to with the Slingshot in Arsenal #1.
So here's the dilemma....and I figured RobM might chime in because his arsenal article in BTM was very RG focused...the other 3 balls ALL have identical RGs of 2.49.
So, if I have 3 balls...and ALL have RGs of 2.49....what are some strategies to maximize the differences between them so that they do actually compliment one another? Or is RG so, so important....that there's really no point to having 2-3 balls with the same RGs +/- .02 much less identical?
I was thinking one of the balls had a higher differential...and even though it's a pearl...it's probably the stronger choice. Then what to do with balls #2 or #3? Both the same company...the same RGs...the same 0.041 diff. The only real difference is one is a hybrid and one is a pearl....I guess that could provide 'some' separation.
And yes, yes, yes....I know RobM will have a disclaimer that there is no possible way to put a reasonable arsenal together without massive amounts of data and video footage and blueprints and humidity measurements and a drone that circles the various centers to take topography measurements and I'm sure it all ties into some type of farmer's almanac....but lets just say for the sake of argument...an EMP goes off and all that is reduced to uselessness...and we can't visually watch everyone else because it's a league for blind players....with no friends to ask for advice.
There....I tried to keep the conversation on 3 balls with a 2.49 RG....although I have a sneaking suspicion I left some side door open....something that's gonna revert the discussion back to what the ball thrown by the 96 average female bowler does at 20, 40, and 60 feet downlane and whether or not the lanes face due South or are more of an East/West facing lane(s).
In Bag: (: .) Zen Master Solid; (: .) Perfect Mindset; (: .) Brunswick Endeavor; (: .) Outer Limits Pearl; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 192; Lifetime Average = 172;
Ball Speed: 14.7mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (720); Clean Games: 198
Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!
The reason that my arsenal article in BTM was very RG focused was simply because that is the one element that most bowlers have the most difficulty understanding, so it is often ignored. As to how important it is, the article explained that the lower a bowlers rev rate is, the more important the RG is. Simply put, the faster the ball is spinning, the more friction becomes the main element in ball reaction. In your case, your rev rate is not that high, so RG is pretty important for you despite your higher ball speed. If you forget about differential (you don't put that much turn on the ball), and stop this obsession with cover materials, what's left is SURFACE. You can take your three 2.49 balls and put a lot of surface on one, a medium surface on another, and polish the third, however they WILL NOT show you the same separation that three balls with a range of RG's will. So, simply put, no, there's really not much point in having three balls that are that close in terms of RG and trying to make them different.
With that being said, please excuse me, I have to go polish my drone! LOL
1. First off what are the balls we are talking about?
2. The difference between two balls with the same RG and Diff one being a pearl and the other a hybrid is probably less than your deviation from shot to shot but you could maybe separate these some by drilling/surface adjustment
3. With your ball speed/speed dominate style low differential balls probably aren't your friend.
I am a proud member of Bowlingboards.com bowling forums and ball contest winner
Current arsenal
900 Global Badger Claw - Radical Ridiculous Pearl - Spare Ball Ebonite T Zone
Aslan,
I have an arsenal of four balls. Similar to what you report - one has a high RG and the other three are all at 2.52. All have similar shape on the lanes. But there is a difference that makes having them useful. They all read the lanes at a different length. This is due to the coverstock and surface preparation. If I was planning I would have changed the drilling layout to further accentuate the difference. what I have now is two with P3 balance holes and two without. All have the same basic drilling. I have one that is dull (2000) and reads very early. One that is dull (4000 with a light hand sanding of 800 every once in a while) and reads moderately far downlane. One that is polished and reads moderately far downlane. And one that is polished and goes far down lane (the high RG ball). The two that are the same length are where I find I have to decide if I need a smoother reaction from the dull ball or the more aggressive reaction from the polished ball (but the difference is very slight - I think the lane surface is why I like one at some centers and the other at different centers).
So, how do I make sense of this? How would I create an arsenal? I find that the BTM ball reviews (or BJI) have a length rating that is most useful. The total hook rating does help some. Usually it is boards different in strength, but that is totally overwhelmed by the lanes friction so one lane may have 2 boards difference and a different lane (oil/surface/etc) might make that 5 boards difference. The drilling layout can enhance the difference just a little. If I was optimizing the four I have, I would have the mid-length dull ball redrilled to read a bit earlier - more of a pin under, control drilling. If I was starting from scratch I would cluster my options by length rating into early, medium and late. Then further exaggerate by Rg and drilling layout. I am sure it can get more complicated, and if I was more precise with my release I might want to have more than just four lengths. But for me at 175-180 average and bowling just a few tournaments a year plus league in one house I feel I have enough range to never be frustrated. And I can bring the whole set plus a spare ball to a tournament quite easily.
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