Switching is tempting but it won't solve the problem if you aren't making good shots (as everyone has said). For me? If a ball is going over/under on really minor deviations shot to shot - or it's not carrying the pocket well.
I have a new article that was just posted on BTM in the last two days that deals with bowling ball strategies. I think that many of you will find it informative.
Switching is tempting but it won't solve the problem if you aren't making good shots (as everyone has said). For me? If a ball is going over/under on really minor deviations shot to shot - or it's not carrying the pocket well.
In regard to the statement "we need to be sure we are actually making good shots and hitting your mark before you can say the ball isn't the right one for the condition. "
There was a article I read long ago, now it was about making adjustments to your shot. But I think it applies here also.
They said that if you waited until you were making prefect shots to make a adjustment. Then you waited too long, you've wasted so many frames you more than likely can't recover from it.
So you were better off making a change off a bad shot and seeing what happens, than wasting time waiting for a perfect shot to base your decision on.
Last edited by bowl1820; 10-16-2015 at 05:17 PM. Reason: spelling
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
Thanks, Al, you beat me to it by a couple of hours. I think the basic concept, at least on a house shot, is that if you have the right ball in your hand, you don't have to make a perfect shot. That's why it's a house shot!
Tip for (1) ball bowlers:
1. If you drop your shoulder down or lower it, the bowling ball will go left, if you are right handed.
2. On your approach, walk toward your mark so you don’t have to over reach to hit it.
3.Lifting your head up to look at the pins during the bowling ball release, will pull your ball to the left. Keeping your head down and watch your bowling ball roll over your mark, to be consistent.
4. Breaking your wrist to the left, when releasing the bowling ball toward your mark. A wrist support would stop your wrist from breaking when lifting the bowling ball. Although I am not a fan of wrist supports.
Asian, this is exactly why I posted this question to the forum as my 3rd game is suffering greatly. You have given me a lot of info to consider. I bowl (1) league a week and only have (2) balls. My main is a Storm Eraser Boost and my second is a Columbia Messenger Titanium. There is some reason I have been unable to control the Eraser which hooks early and drives left of the head pin no matter what I change at the approach.
Originally Posted by Midnight Cowboy66
The Storm Eraser Boost is a particle ball that was meant for a medium-heavy oil shot back when it came out, not particularly the ball you'd want to be using for the 3rd game.
The Columbia Messenger Titanium polished up would be a better choice. Along with moving inside to try and find some oil.
Right handed Stroker, high track ,about 13 degree axis tilt. PAP is located 5 9/16” over 1 3/4” up.Speed ave. about 14 mph at the pins. Medium rev’s.High Game 300, High series 798
"Talent without training is nothing." Luke Skywalker
I read it tonight. But, since we've talked about all of it either online or in person it was like reading a book after I already saw the movie. : )
My only critique/construction criticism is it pretty much talks about different styles but generally says; "They all suck but for different reasons." And then you're waiting for what you "should" do...then you get a lesson in bowling ball specs...then the article ends. It's like, "wait...did I miss what I SHOULD do?" And then you go back to look and, "nope...well, thats a bummer."
But I was kinda high when I read it so...I don't know...maybe I just missed it.
I'm thinking the key words in that paragraph were "long" and "ago" because everything I've read or watched since 2013 and multiple coaches have unanimously agreed says that you don't adjust off a bad shot. If I'm trying to hit 2nd arrow and the ball sticks on my hand and I throw it up and it hits the ceiling...I'm not "balling down" to my next weaker ball or going out to my car to try the urethane ball in the trunk.
Well...actually in that situation I was "balling UP" (get it? the ball went up?)...joke.
And sure...you might use a different ball because your's has a thumbhole too small or is stuck in the ceiling......but you shouldn't go to another ball because that one "isn't giving you a good line or good carry."
How do you even know if the ball goes in the gutter or you yank the shot left?
You gotta hit your mark and have a decent release. Maybe not down to the board...or the "perfect" release/post...but it's gotta be close.
Bowl1820 is like Wikipedia for bowling balls.
My only comment is...if you're throwing older equipment than me...it might be time to think "upgrade". I'm not talking $240 balls...but maybe at least something in the HP2 series of Rotogrip or something. We need to get MCow in the ball winning contest STAT!!
In Bag: (: .) Zen Master Solid; (: .) Perfect Mindset; (: .) Brunswick Endeavor; (: .) Outer Limits Pearl; (: .) Ebonite Maxim
USBC#: 8259-59071; USBC Sanctioned Average = 192; Lifetime Average = 172;
Ball Speed: 14.7mph; Rev. Rate: 240rpm || High Game (sanc.) = 300 (268); High Series (sanc.) = 725 (720); Clean Games: 198
Smokey this is not 'Nam', this is bowling. There are rules. Proud two-time winner of a bowlingboards.com weekly ball give-away!
I'm thinking more than "kinda high." The bottom line that you apparently missed is that strategies are great as long as they are not preconceptions; kinda like you holding on to the whole progression thing come hell or high water.
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